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Cambodian Tire

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Posts posted by Cambodian Tire

  1. Posted

    I remember your Scramblers from the 1 to 1 threads). You have the holy grail of Wranglers with that 392!!... that is a collectors Jeep in the making, almost too nice to wheel haha. 

     Someday I will get around to installing Jeep speed kit and a 5.7, I have yet to uninstall the motor from the donor 300. I will only find the time once I have to ie. my v6 dies:(.

     

  2. Posted

    Yes I miss it as well. I'm going to post some stuff here soon. My boys just acquired two new rc's yesterday, so I dug out my Bruiser which brought me here and whadya know, first thread thread is right on topic?

     I'm happy to come across a familiar name! I hope you are still Jeeping? Our family of four just had an overland trip this summer throughout the Yukon, sadly only had two weeks so Alaska will have to wait till next summer).

    ..Mark

  4. Posted

    Just a helpful hint; If the shock bodies have been in oil you must thoroughly degrease them first. Directly applied dish soap works while scrubbing into all the crevices with a tooth brush, repeating at least once to make certain everything is de-greased. Any remaining grease will confound your attempts at dyeing them a consistent colour. A pinch of salt in the pot of boiling water with the dye helps as well. Take care ...Mark

  6. Posted

    ng

    Where I had wiped hard with a cloth, almost nothing, but medium pressure with bog roll and there were deep scratches.

    Days later I abraded the Polycarbonate with P400 Silicon Carbide used wet, then P600, then P800, then P1000, P1200, P1500, and P2000. Luckily I managed to remove the deep scratches completely it seems, and now only have a cloudy but quite see through window. I think that I can later on use Novus Plastic Polish no.2 or Turtle Wax Car Polish and it will probably go clear again once more, like it did on my F150 XLT window that I brought back from the dead i.e. where it was fogged up with superglue stains and scratches and I used P400 to P2000 and then Turtle Wax Car Polish and it came out perfectly clear, infact a bit too clear LOL so you couldn't hardly tell it had a window. Here's hoping I can fix the Frog body the same way. I can't apply the polish until after I have finished the paint job though, otherwise I might get polish on the body which the paint probably wouldn't stick to.

    I Read the whole topic and it does seem quite troublesome, ;) I really was just trying to help! :P I actually started my hobby with a Fox 24 years ago when I was just a kid and I painted the inside of that body with brush paints (which I still have - ratty though) I recently made a "all new Fox from Ebay over a couple of years and I had painted quite a few of those shells as my Fox "evolved", One paint job I decently reproduced was a copy of Phill Sroka's red and gold airbrush job in Radio Control Car Action Fall 1986 (still have that one too) It's the mag w. Chris Chianelli and the Black Foot on the cover. I don't know if you have access to Parma's line of Pactra Paint but I find them far superior in every way to Tamiya's. Adhesion, coverage...etc. ;)

    I have come across second coats "melting, if you will" the coat below and I found that the same bottle one year later is just a dream to work with. :) The problem is that they are too thin -ready for an airbrush. I leave my new paints, that I don't intend to shoot through an airbrush, sitting open for a few days allowing some of the thinner to evaporate. I do this specifically with detail paint colours, silver for trim, orange for marker lights, and yes actually black for the big "T's" roll bars. When I was younger the lower side of my lexan bodies looked atrocious, ;) the beauty of painting lexan however is -no matter how bad the surface irregularities are on the bottom (provided they're opaque) the outside looks flawless!

    BTW Metal polish (I use Brasso*) ;) will remove paint spray or otherwise from the inside of lexan as Eventually it would (long time) polish through plastic as it basically sands off the paint....We all have had issues with paint bleeding -just as my 959 with painted stripes will tell you, and this has saved my but more than a few times! :o Take care... BTW member numbers don't always reflect "newbness"... I'm sorry if I offended you in anyway!...Take care ...Mark BTW I'm still envious of your Frog :P

  7. Posted

    Hey steam nice tip about the plastic polish! :( Two questions; I don't understand why the outside of the lexan shell could ever look anything other than perfectly glossy? :) and 2. If if, especially on a small area, you get brush marks showing all you have to do is coat it enough times to make it opaque. :) An evenly translucent paint job is one's prerogative using spray cans but IMO I find it looks cheesy. I find that backing up light colours with silver or dark colours with black looks much better. IT makes the finished surface look more substantial and solid. In fact, just to be weird, I actually like white to be painted on thick (at least three coats) then backed with black. It becomes just a shade darker than the brightest white - much more like real automotive paint on metal -on 1;1's. ;) Just my 2cents. BTW I always wanted a Frog and I'm totally envious!!

    Take care ...Mark

  9. Posted

    Very nice - great detail there .Those dampers look excellent

    Hey thanks! :lol: My Bruiser will painted be stock colors,it has; a removable sleeper cab, suspension lift and body drop to keep the same stock proportions, the doors and hood have been cut open and some of the styrene work has been started floor door jams etc., There will be inner fenders, a small block chev V-8, brake lines, radiator etc. :lol:

  10. Posted

    Hey just let me know if it isn't allowed here :lol: but I'll never have time to even skim over this build in a thread, if anybody's interested the build thread is here at click here! I have done similar work on a Porsche 959... Thanks for looking and if linking is frowned upon I'll delete this post. I know we share allot of common members!? :lol:

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