racer1
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Posts posted by racer1
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Not a whole lot more than than a normal chassis. I would say maybe 50% more. If you find the right person maybe double.
For the chassis tub only. I would guess somewhere around $20-$25 USD.
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Since the turck isn't all original, I would simply replace the parts that are breaking with the re-release pieces and keep running it.
Like others have said, the ORV chassis wasn't the best even when new but it has lasted you this long. Now that the re-release is out there, parts are dirt cheap.
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On 1/20/2016 at 2:50 AM, appleby20 said:
Wow, this post, or at least extracts of it, is going directly to my Evernote.
Great info.
I've been using marine grade "green grease" on everything except for ball diffs for the past 20 yrs. Never had an issue with any of them. I don't see the need for a bunch of different greases laying around.
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I disagree. While there are a ton of poeple that have no clue trying to sell cars for big numbers, there are still reasonable people out there that know what they have and know what it's really worth.
I picked up a lightly used RC10 A Stamp for $90 shipped to my door about two months ago and Grasshoppers and Hornets are a dime a dozen. Problem is this. When the cars with reasonable prices are posted they get bought right away.
Most listing now have a buy it now price and they get snapped up quick. I personally spent about 10 mins every morning and ev3ening looking at newliy listed cars on Ebay. This is how I find my deals.
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As others have said, you can run a Silver can in just about anything as they are normal 540 sized motors. A few years back we had a silver can class at one of the local tracks. It was a handout motor class where they would give you the motor about 10 mins before the race started. It had to be installed with Tamiya style bullet connectors. They went one step further and made sure all the cars weighted within 1 oz of each other. If you were too light you had to add weight. If you were too heavy then that was your problem.
I ran an Associated B4 in that class for a long time and did very well. Wish it was still around.
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Never run 6S in anything but I have done 3S in a Grasshopper with a MM7700 some years back.
I started with a MM5700 on a normal 6 call NiMh pack and that was insane but just couldn’t leave it alone. Before I knew it, I had the 3S and the 7700 KV motor in it and destroying tires on pretty much every run.
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Hello,
I've been kicking around the idea of building a 58044 tribute using the Montero 58499 as a base. I already have the necessary Brat wheels and tires and I'm well onmy way but I've hit a snag. Not sure what to use for the suspension.
Can anyone tell me if the suspension was used on any other cars? Are the front shafts and springs the same as used on the Grasshopper and hornet by any chance?
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Love the Striker. I've had one since I was in my late teens and had a blast with it but broke the chassis several times. Many years ago I found a hobby shop that was clearing out their Tamiya inventory and they just happen to have a bunch of Striker parts so I bought pretty much everything they had. I ended up throwing everything in a box and it's been sitting on the shelf in the basement for close to 20 yrs untouched. With all of these Striker threads poping up, it's making me want to get down there and get started on it.
I'm looking forward to your build.
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SO far I have all of the LunchBox releases and actually did my own Red version and an all white version last year. I'm looknig forward to this Red version and have ordered a bunch of white parts for the build to match the strips.
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43 minutes ago, blakeatron said:
I used to clear over the decals, but after a while had some slight lifting on some edges, normally on a sharp bend.
have you ever had any issues?
I've had this happen a couple of times. I learned two things. First I like to use a heat gun when I install the decals to get them to bend and conform to the bodies a bit better.
Next I learned to put on more clear coat. I typically 5 or 6 coats of clear. Since doing this I haven't had a single decal popup.
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Nice build. Glad to see someone actually using one of these. I was interested in one but the cost is too high at this point. Some are selling ffor well over $600 on Ebay.
Someone needs to send a scan of the decals to MCI so the rest of use can get our hands on them
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I used Traxxas Slash Front shocks and springs on the rear of my MadBull. They were a direct fit and really improved the hopping around that the car had with the normal pogo sticks.
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The more I think about this the more i feel we will see a Grasshopper Super G and maybe a Super Hornet.
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The frst company I looked at when I wanted a new RC before the MAP Pricing. Now it's pretty far down the list.
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Honestly I don't think the gearing would matter all that much as the truck is so light I doubt you would hurt the motor. I'd try the 18T and check the motor temps. If it gets over 150F then go down.
I had a Traxxas VXL motor in mine for about 2 days with the 18T pinion and it was over kill to the extreme so I took it out and now run one of the finned can HobbyWing Motors. They have 540 sized cans but have internals that are closer to a 380 size. I'm running that with the 18T pinion as well.
If you want to get technical. It really depends on the KV of the motor you are running. If you are running a lower KV around 3500KV you can easily run the 18T. If you are doing somethign like the MM7700 then you would be better off wioth the 10T.
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I remember when LiPo packs were becoming propular and affordable. The horror stories kept a lot of people away from them for a long time.
Simple fact. If you take precautions and use your brain then you will be fine. In all of the years I've been using LiPo's I've had one issue and that was due to landing on a rock that that punctured one of the early zippy soft packs. The pack smoked like crazy for a minute and I had a ton of time to get the pack out of the car. It did evenetually catch fire but it wasn't a huge fire. I have never had an issue charging a pack. I have had instances where a NiMh pack exploded and sent cells flying around the shop but never an issue with LiPo.
With all of that being said I've taken a couple of different approaches to safety over the years. For long time I only charged my packs in and old metal ammo box. I would place the packs in can then place a plastic bag of sand on top of the pack and charge. I did this for years without an incident.
About 5 yrs ago we replaced our aging BBQ grill with a new one. I decided to keep the old one and place it beside my work shed outside. After a good degreasing I placed a conccrete paver stone about 12"x12" Inside the grill and I have been charging on that old thing since. I figure if it catches fire there won't be any harm. It's contained in the BBQ grill.
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I still own my original Grasshopper. It was purchased very early in 1984. While I don't remember the exact date I can tell you it was shortly after christmas as I remember walking to the hobby store in the snow to see the car sitting on the shelf during my lay-away plan. I've compared my orignal 1984 example to this car and there are a few significant differences as stated earlier.
I've heard rumor that these "Offroader" Grasshoppers were preproduction models. I have a buddy that owned a large hobby shop in the 80's and told me that he remembers Tamiya giving display models to shops here in the US for advertising and remembers that the Grasshopper was one of the cars that was used in the promotion. He doesn't remember specific details about the car so there is no way to confirm.
Does anyone have any idea on howmany of these early cars were made or their value today?
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Finally got home. Here are a couple of pics of the Grasshopper. Note the black ball ends, black capasitor plate and the "Offroader" under the stars.
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Couple of things that I did notice right away was that the stock front springs seemed stiffer than what is on the current re-release or even my orginal car from 1984. The Side bars are also made of a softer material when compared to the later cars.
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Not yet. Car just arrived last night and I was too excited digging through all of the parts to take pics of it.
Then of course I has to go away for work this morning. I will post some up when I getback home later in the week as I'm away for work..
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Hello fourms. I recently picked up an very nice all original MK1 Grasshopper with the "Offroader" script under the Tamiya stars on the chassis. It also has the black ball links and black resistor plate.
The body is in surprisingly good shape and came with a brand new set of original decals, wheels and tires never mounted.
I plan to do a cleanup and very basic restoration of the car. I'm not doing anything crazy or swapping out any of the original parts so it will stay 100% period correct.
Any guesses on value?
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For years the old Hornet/Grasshopper were my go to fun Tamiya Wheelers. After a very long time the bouncing around did get old and I have just recently moved to an old school Fox for my daily bashing on mild terrian. The Fox still has that "tamiya" feel to it without being sterial like some other more modern buggies.
When I'm looking to just go all out and blast Across a field at 50+ Mph I reach for my old school Traxxas Stampede with a VXL running 3S.
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I'm personally loving the re-releases. Rather I was until the new MAP pricing took effect. I have a large number of the originals on the shelf restored to mint condition and painted in box art. These will never see dirt or road again. The re-releases give me a way to buy, build and enjoy these same models again without fear of damaging my originals. My feeling on the re-re's is that I hope they never go away. In my perfect world every model would be available to purchase but I know that is unrealistic. Since the new MAP pricing has taken effect it's allowed / forced me to step away from Tamiya and i'm now enjoying the re-releases from Kyosho. If Tamiya gets their heads together and removes MAP then I'll come back but at this point it would take a special re-release to get me to buy.
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Looks like you have the bed from the RC4WD Mojave II Body. That bed is too deep to be a Tamiya bed.
Fox resto handling question.
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
Front anti-Rolll bar or a stiffer spring on the front shock. You need to stop the front from compressing so much that it lifts the rear tires.