racer1
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Posts posted by racer1
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I'm doing it the hard way. Every car has it's own transmitter with the name and color of the car on the bottom. With transmitter/receiver combos becoming so cheap it doesn't bother me to have one for each.
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I seem to go in waves. At first it was just a matter of whatever looked interesting that I didn't have. At one point the Grasshopper/Hornet chassis became really cheap here in the states and I was able to find them on Ebay and sites like Craigslist for under $20 sometimes even running so I ended up with about 12 of them. Figured since I had those I might as well get the GH2 and Super Hornet and throw in a couple of Super G's for good measure.
Next came my obsession with the ORV chassis so I ended up with the Frog, Brat, Blackfoots, MB etc. Still looking for a nice Bush Devil but so far no luck.
At this point I'm focusing on Hard Bodies. I have a pretty extensive collection of them already but my goal is to obviously have them all
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I live in Des Plaines IL. USA. About 15 mins outside of Chicago. I got started with Tamiya at 11 yrs old. My first car was a Grasshopper which I built over the course of about 6 months as I saved u money to buy the radio, battery, charger etc. I ran that car silly for the first two years. I finally had the chance to restore the old Grasshopper back to showroom condition last year. Yes I still own the first car I every bought. At 13 my mother bought me an AristoCraft Kangaroo for my Birthday which surprisingly turned out to be a great car.
A year or so later came a Brusier then eventually a King Cab. I took a short break from RC from about 18 to 21 then got back into it with an HPI RS4 Lamborghini. From there I decided that Tamiya and Kyosho was the brands I wanted to focus on. At one point i worked for a local hobby shop in the RC department then moved on to doing repair work myself at home. As my career grew so did my collection. I can't even begin to count the number of cars that have been bought, sold, traded, built, restored, etc etc.
I took a quick inventory back in Dec. of lastyear for insurance and couldn't 335 cars total with about 75% being Tamiya but there is a little bit of everything mixed in there
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Here in the states they come up from time to time for around $150
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On 3/15/2018 at 4:38 PM, Biz73 said:
Have you guys really had big problems with body posts breaking? We have beat the crap out of our MP and haven't broken any. I bought a runner shell that doesn't have the windows in it, and the cab has started to crush, but no issues with body posts.
It's been 3 years and this thing has been beaten on. They are tough trucks.
I've only broken the body posts themselves twice but I've broken the tub where they attach 4 times. The last time I replaced the tube I bought two as the seller combined shipping. Switching to a lexan body really helped. Haven't broken one since.
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Desk in my office. It's a large "L" shaped desk. One side is for work the other is for my hobbies. I try to keep them out of the kitchen to keep the GF happy
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23 hours ago, Saito2 said:
I frequently take a car to the trails. The Path we generally walk on is paved 7.7 mile loop. My Stock Grasshopper 2 with a the 380 and a 5200 Mah pack can generally make the entire trip at walking pace which is good so I don't have to carry the darn thing. It's also durable enough that I haven't broken anything in a dozen trips or almost a 100 miles.
People are generally interested in the cars but I do get the occasional weird look from someone wondering why a grown man is playing with a toy car. Couple of things I've learned
1 - Keep the car at a walking pace near you unless you can see that you have clear open path.
2 - When Bikes are around pull the car off the trail and stop to let them pass.
3 - When Dogs are around STOP running the car until the dog is out of range even if this means stopping for a minute to wait. People really hate when their dog goes nuts because of you car. The Smaller the dog the more annoyed they get.
Beyond that, just be courteous to everyone and keep the car out of the way and people will be ok with you. I can't tell you how many times I've been stopped and asked questions on the car.
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Grasshopper 2 -Stock except for street tires on the rear.
Stock 380 motor.
Stock Gearing.
Turnigy 2S 5200 hardpack. Had to sand down the sides of the battery compartment to make it fit. Still very tight due to length but it does fit with a little effort.
Took it to the forest preserve where we do our walking/biking. path is a little over 7.7 miles. Takes us a little over 2 hrs to complete the walk. Still had juice in the battery and the LVA had not started making noise yet. At normal running/bashing speeds the same pack lasts 50/60 mins.
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Some years back we had a track at a local park here that ran various classes. It was all geared toward Low dollar racing so you had a bunch of entry level classes. My favorite was the 2wd straight axle buggy class. The class was about 95% Grasshoppers and Hornets from back in the day.
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As others have stated. Weakest part are the body mounts. Unfortunately when mine broke they broke chunks off the chassis where they mounted so I had to replace the tub chassis as well. Not a big deal as parts are cheap and it is fun to tear it all down.
Only other thing is really the Body. Since it is a hard body it's heavy and causes roll overs very easily. It also cracks and scuffs really easy so I'd recommend replacing it with a Lexan copy from Parma.
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After cleaning up my Brusier Chassis I coated the parts with a couple of coats of Duplicolor Clear Enamel. Worked great and still looks good today.
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The Hornet Gearbox is not the smoothest around and is pretty loud normally. I'd check that Pinion again as I don't believe you can fit a 19 tooth pinion. It's physically larger and would be forced against the Counter Gear causing extremely tight gear mesh.
If you did replace the pinion are you sure it is the correct pitch? If you do in fact have a 19 tooth pinion in there I would go back to the factory 18 tooth and look very closely at the counter gear for wear.
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Back when I was big into Traxxas I had so many left overs and spare parts laying around that I was able to build a complete Stampede and Rustler.
I never throw away or get rid of my spare parts as I never know when I'm going to use something. A couple of weeks ago I decided to rebuild and lower a Midnight Pumpkin. Scavenging through my old parts bins I was able to find everything I needed from the screws, nuts, TA01 shocks, misc. brackets and mounts etc. to get the project completed without spending a single dollar. Bad new is I now have a bunch of Midnight pumpkin lower chassis parts to add to those parts bins.
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I just went through this with a Midnight Pumpkin I'm restoring. I hated how much it would wheelie so I decided to lower it. The hardest part about lowering this chassis is fitting shocks to it. Thankfully I had a few old TA01 chassis's laying around that still hard their shocks attached. 4 shocks from the TA01 fit perfectly.
First you'll want to remove the lower part of the chassis that holds the battery. When doing this you will see that there are slots in the front of the chassis for the front A-Arms similar to the Grasshopper/Hornet. You will move the A-Arms to this new location. That is where the drop from the front end will come from.
Next you want to replace the rear inserts where the rear gearbox attaches to the chassis with those from a hornet/grasshopper. This will give you the necessary drop in the rear. Now it's just a matter of mounting up the shocks from the TA01 chassis. I used the little U channel pieces from lower front shock mount on the grasshopper and flipped them over to connect the top of the shocks to the chassis front and rear. The lower part of the shock just mounts up like the stock MP shocks.
Next you'll need to deal with the steering servo mounting. It won't fit in the normal position because the saver will hit the A-Arms. To fist this I simply mounted the servo flat on the chassis like you would in a hornet.
From there it's just a matter of mounting electronics within the tub. I pushed as much forward as I could to offset the rear weight bias. You'll also need to use a smaller battery that fits down in the tub. I picked up a 4400 square LiPo that fits perfect.
End result is a truck that doesn't wheelie nearly as much but is still way to top heavy for corning. A lexan shell would fix it but I like the hard bodies too much.
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My issue is with hard bodies.I tend to buy everyone i run across. Not sure how many but i can tell you I found a deal on Super Hornet bodies many years ago and bought everything the guy had in stock. Recently did the same thing with Bearhawk, GH2, GH1 and Sand scorcher bodies. There must be a dozen Pajero wide, Pumpkin and Lunch Box bodies.
I'd say I have 4 to 5 times as many bodies as I do cars.
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I just finished painting the wheels on a Midnight pumpkin last weekend. I simply scuffed them up with a green scotch brite pad then shot on one coat of adhesive promoter then very light coats of Duplicolor Automotive spray paint. First went white to cover the yellow before painting the final color while was a Light metallic Blue in this case.
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1 hour ago, Lightningrc said:
Was gonner go in metallic brown like the Fall guys old truck if your older enough to remember .
plus thought about black with the chrome
I do remember the Fall Guy truck. I'm thinking metallic gray or a bark Burgundy.
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Nice truck. I just picked one of these up myself and I'm waiting to start the build as I'm undecided on a paint color. I don't think I'm going Red and I already have a Box art Brusier so....
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If you are still running the stock 380 which it appears that you are. Any 540 sized motor will be a huge jump in power. Really a stock 540 puts you at the limit of what the stock "suspension" can handle.
That being said I have one running a 15T HPI motor that came out of a Blitz. It's really too fast but fun and I agree with the previous poster. All you are really doing is scratching the paint off the rood and breaking the rear edges off the body. Definitely go with a Lexan body.
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Really wishing for a striker and falcon but doubt either of those will happen.
My guess is we’ll see a super hornet and mud blaster. Everything is out there for the mud blaster except for decals and some body mounts. The only thing needed for the super hornet would be the body and decals.
Would be nice if they did a few more custom colored hard bodies. Would love a chrome edition super hornet and maybe a different combo on a lunchbox/pumpkin/Montero.
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The one thing I wish someone had told me before I got started was how much room this hobby would eventually consume.
Right now I have an entire basement plus one hobby room dedicated to cars alone.
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I'll second the fact that regular old automotive paint is a much better option than the hobby grade stuff. Here in the states we have access to Duplicolor auto paint in literally thousands of colors and it's great quality. Just pick your color and spray it.
There are also a number of clear coats to allow you to have whatever finish you want. Super gloss, Semi, flat etc.
As for using different types of paint. I generally try to stay away from this but I have found that Duplicolor has a clear Enamel that lays down ultra smooth and it's easy without runs etc.
The Rule is Enamel over Laquer is OK. Even knowing this. I typically wait at least a week before spraying clears. I also always spray on a couple of very light coats of clear to test for a reaction before applying decals. After that I apply the decals and apply several very light coats to cover the decals. My final coat is medium heavy to get the desired gloss finish. After about a week you can wet sand and polish if desired.
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In my experience they have been very good. I called an added an additional sheet the day after placing my initial order. They are very nice decals.
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What to do about Mad Bull rear wheels coming loose?
in General discussions
Posted
Blue Loctite will fix the issue. I use it on all my runners regardless of brand.