Dr.Robotnik

Hahahaha......I have also emailed JR-RC many times, through ebay and other methods, and also asked questions when buying parts but I have never received a single word of reply from him. So I stopped buying from his store, it's his loss. I don't understand when people don't reply when you are trying desperately to give them your money... Sorry I can't help with the Thorp/Falcon problem

Thanks for keeping me up to date after accepting my help!!!!!!!! btw that was sarcasm.......

Gutted I missed this as was watching the gold for ages, I think it got to 690 ish at one point. Here's something riddle based I found. http://www.xkcd.com/c246.html []

The hole is 2mm in diamter and an M2 nut and bolt hold the mirror. I am sorry if that's not the right answer. I can't help anymore either as I don't have any brackets. Good luck.

Thanks for pointing out my typo mate [] Lol. But serously thanks for the tips on Yokomo USA I will break out the old manual and get an email off to them as I need 3 sets of front hubs and another couple of sets of steering knuckles. Hope my manual has the part numbers [8-|] Anyway thanks a lot for your interest, fancy posting pictures of your conversion project you mentioned, to liven up this thread while I wait for parts? Cheers

Hi guys, Just a couple of quick questions as this project seems to be going towards a solid regular gear not a diff. Is there a problem with the stock main nylon gear as it stands? I have driven it and it seems fine. I just ask because people seem to be saying they want it in metal. I had a NIB full set of vintage CRP gears and a Race Prep main gear in my trade room for ages which didn't sell (they got traded last week) and I have also seen them on ebay not sell. So what gives, why the sudden interest in a metal gearbox? Also the idler gear is available on ebay in brass, the top shaft is already metal, metal 48p spur gears are available in a variety of materials for a number of different models, so is there a need for a complete set from cherrybomb? Just quick questions...... Cheers Ed

Hi peejay, Another mini update. I am glad I put in that last update just for you. [] Lol. Thanks to your tips [H] I have put in an order, I believe for the final parts for my project (bar a chassis plate if needed for an extended chassis). King pins for the front MR4TC hub carriers experiment. [8-|] MR4TC roll bar set. I thought I might try and make a roll bar too. and finally I have another matching TRF415 centre pulley [] So now I just need to wait on the postman and sell parts so I can afford some electronics for this car [] Cheers Ed

Thanks a lot guys that will give me a few methods to try, I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers Ed

Hi guys, Here's a quick update for peejay, Lol []. I am busy sourcing a second pulley and am waiting for parts too so its kind of stalled before its started while I await on the post. Some screws, the repro bodies (thanks barrypops) and bearings arrived yesterday so thats a start. I have also been stripping and rebuilding the chassis too. Here's some new pics :-) Project 'belt drive' Wonder Dog fighter chassis; Chassis above shot Bodies and wings Decals, screws and bearings Terry.sc thanks for your email on chassis materials and manufacture, that will come in great help a little down the line. Cheers Ed

Hi guys, Seems like an interesting prohect cherrybomb has, huh? Mike you are correct that the output shafts on the MIP geared diff. are to short to reach out of the SRB gearbox (without modification) and thus only work in the MIP gearbox. However by grinding the SRB gearbox down like Jerzirccar has done you can make it fit. edit: picture not working so see link; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp...003201059_4.jpg However we are talking about reproducing the diff. so it should be possible to make output shafts of the correct length :-) and thus fit to a standard SRB gearbox. I have no preference with which diff. gets made personally. Sourcing diff. balls for a ball diff. should not be a problem as they are available from any good bearing supplier. Also heat treating output shafts and other manufacturing processes which might be needed I can also provide for cherrybomb if required. So I hope that is most queries answered :-) By the way can we set up a poll for this (I know you can on other forums but wouldn't know how)? Singapore_959 :- geared mymonsterbeetleisbroken :- geared blacque jacque :- geared Bin^ jammin^ :- geared MikeT :- geared Shodog :- ? Live Steam Mad :- geared Corpse Thrower :- ball diff. Badboy :- either ? Well, I have to get back to sorting my trades section out :-) Bye. Ed P.S. CRP were a vintage hop-up manufacturer which has been out of business many, many years. The ebay sellers using their name are just selling off their old stock. No new parts are manufactured by CRP.

Hi guys, I have emailed cherrybomb (Chris) with an offer of assistance, but my questions to you is; Which diff. are people most interested in and why? I have all four vintage diff.s which have/could be used on SRB's and which could now possibly be made into a repro and was wondering which people theoretically preferred. Nodis geared diff. Thorp ball diff. MIP ball diff. MIP geared diff. Cheers Ed

Hi guys, I was wondering, how is it possible to clean the dirt that gets onto the edge of fibreglass parts. For example the old firbeglass chassis on the Sand Scorcher. What I mean is you can have a part which looks cosmetically excellent on the surface apart from the filthy dirt mark around the edge, which makes it look disgusting and old. Any tips you can share would be much appreciated. Cheers [] Ed

Thanks for the info. Mike that's excellent, its always good to learn about the products to use in the UK, especially as I don't have a local model shop. Now I can keep an eye out for more products in hardware stores. Lol. Cheers [] Ed

Such a good description, I had to quote it. Sorry I can't help but the other guys suggestions sound great []

I am sorry to hear that kee. I wish you good health and happiness in whatever you end up doing. All the best Ed

Hey thanks peejay that really helps, I have found the right manual now and its really informative. [] I haven't been able to find another centre pulley for the TRF415 but a friend says he might have a pulley for the TGX, would it be compatible with the TRF belt? [:S] Thanks a lot. Ed

Awesome looking project you have there! I can't wait to see the final results, especially the bumper/light rig. Will the lamps work? Can I ask what filler and glue do you use? Can you reccomend them? Thanks a lot for any help.

Maybe some one ran it [:|] and the parts fell off? []

Imagine them telling your parents in-law, surely worse [:|]

Hi guys, Sorry this is barely Tamiya related but I am trying to use Tamiya TRF415 parts and I thought I'd liven up the forum with a project topic. I recently checked out the Japanese website Time Tunnel on http://www93.sakura.ne.jp/~time-tunnel/06-9-3-1.html. I was super impressed by how they ran all their old vintage racers, some models of which I own. I was particularly stoked on how they had, modernised, modified and improved their Yokomo Dog Fighter cars. With amongst other things modern electronics and larger wheels. I have been trying to sell a large number of Yokomo parts without much success and have also been in need of a vintage runner too, so with the great Time Tunnel Yokomo's as inspiration I would like to turn this (the black chassis Wonder Dog Fighter car) Into a runner/racer, like this I have managed to get a couple of cheap repro bodies (though wrong style for this car) from barrypops and after pestering shodog (cheers mate) a whole bunch of new and used spares. So now that I have (they are in the post somewhere [] ) most of the parts to restore them, I just need to sort out the missing kingpins, front hub carriers and front wheel hubs. I bought on ebay a set of Yokomo MR-4TC-SD front steering blocks as an experiment to see if they can be adapted to fit the older Yokomo. I am still in need of kingpins (though I can probably make some) and also the front 2 bolt square hubs (I could only find a pic of the rears [:$] ) if anyone has any. Now onto the exciting part of the project. I would like to change the chain drive to a belt drive if possible. I studied these pics of a guy called Aku san's Yokomo which he has converted to a belt drive. I managed to translate the captions to the pictures, which mentioned that the belt and pulley were from a Tamiya. The site has since been updated and the Japanese captions are lost so that's all the info. I have apart from some other pics. I did some ebay searching and tried to find a belt and pulley combination that was available, Tamiya and looked similar to the belt and pulley in the pictures. I found on the ebay shop (dinball) that I bought the front hubs, that they also sold Tamiya TRF415 front belts and centre pulleys which looked remarkably like the ones on Aku san's Yokomo. So there you go that's my latest project. I don't know if any of it will work and I still need to determine a way to attach the belt to the front drive system. I ideally wanted another TRF415 centre pulley but the ebay shop dinball seems to be some sort of robot and is not replying to my emails. I was thinking perhaps of buying an HPI One-Way Pulley 15T RS4 Mini (BK), for HPI MT, Mini Pro, Mini, Rally, Sport2, Sport, Pro2, Pro. but it would be 15T not 16T like the other pulley, is that a problem? Also I don't know if the TRF415 belt would be compatible (tooth shape) with the HPI pulley. Can anyone tell me more about the TRF415? I haven't found much on it other than pictures and its a belt drive on road chassis. I was hoping this site would have the manual but I can't find it, is it here? So after all that, does anyone have any thoughts on my project or the compatibility/suitability of the parts I suggested? Any ideas on alternatives? Anyone know someone selling front Yokomo two bolt square wheel hubs? I guess that's it really. Thanks for any comments [H] Good or bad I'd love to hear some comments or criticism. Ed. P.S. I forgot to add, does anyone know how the MR4TC hubs attach to the hub carriers (c-mount)? I assume by some kind of kingpin, but I can't find any info. on the web or any king pins. Any help much appreciated.

Hi guys, Is this not the same 'sealed new in box' Scorcher that comes up every year and everyone jokes about sealing not being available at the time the Scorcher was made, etc, etc, etc.... I think Live steam mad started a thread about it a week ago but it may have been deleted. Same auction is back on Ebay after a year, same pics, no protection, NIB Scorcher I hope no one got ripped off!

That's looking awesome mate. Any updates? Can I ask, what material have you used for the chassis and where did you get it please? cheers []

Find a hard cardboard box to fit the chassis and pad the outside around the chassis with a packing material like bubble wrap, newspaper or polystyrene. Write to: and the address in New Zealand on the front, and from: and your address on the back, then take it to your local post office. Tell them you'd like to send it to New Zealand, they will weight it and then give you a variety of options, the cheapest being slowest and the fastest being most expnsive. Standard postal insurance included in the price will cover up to I think £30 if the item is more expensive this is the time to purchase extra insurance too. Hope that helps, its not meant to be patronising, I just thought I'd cover all the basics in case anyone else didn't know as selling internationally really opens your market up. :-) Good luck. Ed

I don't think that was the problem but its working fine now thanks. []

Hi Cherrybomb, So the first design is in! First off let me say it looks great, especially as you are taking on quite a lot with this project. I don't think you should have a problem with axles and keeping there length under control as people have discussed, as this isn't a new idea and its worked before!! For example you could use RC10 dogbones, outdrives and rear axles all of which are fairly easily available and reliable (and you said you'd like to use it with an RC10 stealth gearbox). Other than that its kind of hard to evaluate your design. What materials is it to be made out of? Do you have some dimensions too? For example the old MIP trailing arms; These used a Glass Reinforced Fibre plate as the trailing arm. Then the rear axle bearings are held in nylon blocks bolted to the trailing arm. The trailing arm has a pivot pin mounted at the chassis end and bolted to the trailing arm. This pivot pin is secured in an alloy block and bolted to the chassis. Its a fairly crude design at best. However it wasn't the only trailing arm available at this time. I was wondering if you have seen any of these vintage designs? It might be advantageous for you to look into trailing arm kits for the Associated RC10. The MIP system was intended for both the RC10 and SRB and the bolt system to attach them is the same. There are a ton of designs out there from hop-up manufacturers for the RC10. If you need any info let me know. Anyway good luck. Ed