Dr.Robotnik

Hi Chris, I am not sure if this is the correct place for this but the 'add model' button in the bottom right corner in the 'add new car to showroom' section has not been working since last night. Cheers Ed

The CRP servo saver for the SRB was basically the left side of the RC10 servo saver (released later I believe). So it could be either part of an RC10 servo saver or a CRP servo saver. I believe it is the same part as in fmannz picture (from the RC10 manual) but it also has another part of the servo saver (the oval block that appears snapped which allows the servo to attach)on it. See my picture from page 4 of the RC10 manual. The full manual can be seen on; http://www.theshreves.com/rc_stuff/manuals/ae_rc10/ Hope that helps. Cheers Ed

Your spelling of something is wrong.......and my post count has gone up []

Oh one more thing, try contacting Ant88 (I think) who maybe able to help you with machining. Cheers Ed

Hi Chris, I think you have a fairly good idea. But I just have a couple of questions. I had noticed your new hop-ups recently and was very impressed. I was wondering do you machine your own parts and have your own machine tools? Do you have a design for the trailing arms in mind? If not how have you determined it to be very costly (what is your definition of costly)? I just ask because I have a couple of vintage trailing arm setups and have recreated the MIP version in graphite which wasn't so difficult. Do you have any vintage designs in mind to follow? Anyway best of luck and if you need any dimensions of old parts just give me a shout. Cheers Ed

Hi guys and girls, I would like help contacting gecko-no-more or Cliff as he is known in real life, please. [] I recently sorted out a trade with him and since I paid I haven't been able to contact him via email (its been a week or two). [:S] I am not saying anything untoward is happening just a communication breakdown, so if someone has his number and could either give it to me to contact him or give him a quick phone yourself to let him know he should check his email and reply to me, I'd be very very grateful.[:-*] Thanks a lot. [] Ed P.S. I am posting this in General discussions and the Vintage section to get the best chance of assistance. Cheers.

Hi guys and girls, I would like help contacting gecko-no-more or Cliff as he is known in real life, please. [] I recently sorted out a trade with him and since I paid I haven't been able to contact him via email (its been a week or two). [:S] I am not saying anything untoward is happening just a communication breakdown, so if someone has his number and could either give it to me to contact him or give him a quick phone yourself to let him know he should check his email and reply to me, I'd be very very grateful. [:-*] Thanks a lot. [] Ed P.S. I am posting this in General discussions and the Vintage section to get the best chance of assistance. Cheers.

Are you sure you didn't mount the motor wires the wrong way round? I did this on my first esc and when running in forwards it would intermittently stop, then after returning the stick to neutral and pushing forward again, it would run again. Reverse was fine though. So I decided to read the manual and found that reverse was meant to be intermittent for racing. [] By switching the motor wires round I solved the problem. Hope that can help.

Congratulations mate, its a testament to the hard work you put into these cars. Awesome. []

Hi Chris, Great competition as always, but I accidently hit the % button and now the system says I guessed 0%. Is there any chance you could enter my real guess? Cheers Ed

edit: ------------- I have just added this part to my new showroom as I couldn't link to pics from my old showroom.

Hi Carrera, You and the previous owner are correct in that the name of the company was Nodis. [8-|] The items you mention are very rare [:|] and I think I have only heard of one set of Nodis gears (though I may be wrong) for the Holiday Buggy/Sand Rover on tamiyaclub and I can't remember where (maybe search the forum perhaps????). [:S] I myself have a geared diff. for the SRB which is made by Nodis. [H] This can be seen in my old showroom on; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...45&id=13728 Top man FERRIS posted this information in the tamiyaclub reference section for the diff. in question however I haven't found any further information on your parts specifically. [] http://www.tamiyaclub.com/article.asp?id=186 If you could possibly post some pictures of your parts it might help to identify them further especially the UJ's as I am not sure I have heard that Nodis made them and it might in fact have been another UK manufacturer. I hope this helps as a start. Cheers Ed

Hi Jim, Cool diff. mate great find [H] I have discussed this ball diff. with you before and so you know I am not sure about it. I'll measure my own MIP diff. tonight though. As for is there any reason to make the shaft shorter (apart from to make it lighter)? Well this diff. was used on many different cars from the RC10, SRB, Cox/Kyosho Scorpion, etc. The internals and gear remained the same with different length outdrive axles to suit different cars/gearboxes. Most companies did this and I have a Thorp diff from a Cox/Kyosho Scorpion to suit an MIP gearbox which has very short outdrives axles indeed making it unsuitable for the standard SRB gearbox. Oh the shorter outdrives axles can make it possible to convert the rear axles to dogbones using some RC10 and AYK parts. As for what is better or worse, going on vintage price the Thorp was most expensive and the MIP a cheap option at the time. Weight wise though the MIP wins as its alloy construction makes it lighter. The Thorp is seen as more desirable now though. There are quite a lot of MIP diff.s on this site and I even have one up for sale in my trade room, here is the showroom of Live Steam Mad where he discussed the relative merits of the two diff.s. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...90&sid=5475 If you also browse his showrooms you can see seperate entries for each of the diff's he owns. It's very informative. [8-|] As for rarity I believe the most expensive and rarest diff. (there is only one on the site) is the Nodis geared diff. [] Sorry I can't help with specifics about the MIP B400 though, good luck. [] Cheers Ed

I am glad you have had some success with this method, because after my initial observations that it was thinning my paint I found it was unable to shift the majority of the paint on the shell. I am happy that it will work for someone. Oh and the Can Am Lola is super sweet by the way. Well done. :-)

This seller has posted this diff. before Christmas and it didn't sell then! Lol. I have seen them go for nearly $300 though which is incredible. The prices for vintage SRB hop-ups (and other vintage RC stuff) is incredible at the moment. I saw an RCH rear only (half a set) go for over £60 that's like over $120 the other day so he just might get it. I hope that these high prices don't give everyone the wrong ideas. [:'(] Oh and isn't that a live auction link you've posted? [:S]

Hi WG, I thought I was gonna be able to help and guessed that it was the heatsink Parma used to do but I was wrong. Also I am keeping your thread alive buddy :-) Cheers 'The' Dr.

Is that not the least of his worries? I think the front end may dig in a bit without any wheels and perhaps something to attach the front end to the back end might be good too? Just my suggestions of course. [] Seriously though its looking good so far. [] Cheers

For the vintage Lunchbox and Pumpkin the only difference is the body mounts. The Lunchbox ones come on the C-parts tree and the Pumpkins come from the E-parts tree. The following links will take you to TC's comprehensive Tamiya cars list and then you can select either Pumpkin or Lunchbox and follow the links to the manual http://www.tamiyaclub.com/cars.asp 58070: Midnight Pumpkin 58063: Vanessa's Lunch B... Cheers Ed

Hi guys, Well thanks for the nice comments that's real good of you all. [:$] Jerry cheers for the compliments, your collection ain't to shabby either mate. Have you started building your own MIP 4x4 yet? Scorchio, the rear trailing arms came with the Allec&Lane or A&L chassis kit I have used. The kit is made up of; - GRP chassis plate - Alloy Trailing arms, mounts and hinge pins -Black FRP shock tower with angled nylon shock mounts, rear body nylon mount and alloy wing supports. [8-|] Aconsola thanks for the the email about tie-rods, I have replied to that now and hopefully we can work something out. I maybe able to help you out with a strap in a week or two, give me an email reminder then. [] Darryn, I emailed about a couple of things before, including the "Modified Magic" SIG, I think some emails are going AWOL. Feel free to add the cars you think would be approproate to the group, I'd be honoured. Thanks again. [<)]

Hi guys and girls, So this weekend I picked up a bunch of parts from the post office and thought I had enough to make an update with what I've now got on the car. Thanks to all these guys for there help with parts, this car wouldn't be where it is now without you. Shodog sold me a set of front and rear Composite Craft shock towers. I have split up the set for now just to assemble the car. I'd like to keep them as a set, but the A&L shock mounts need me to drill holes in the rear tower. Also the MIP kit requires a slot drilling in the shock tower and bulkhead, I can't decide which one I should chop up. The car also now has front hinge inner and outer Titanium hinge pins from RC performance specialties. Thanks a million mate. A friend (Jason) from another board hooked me up big time with some front shock tower bulkheads, hinge pins, rear bulkhead, battery straps that are on the car. I'd like to say special thanks for all that generousity. A guy from ebay whom I emailed about these wheels maybe 8 months ago when they didn't sell, hooked me up with 4 pairs for $14 the other day. He said he'd give me an amazing deal for being so patient. I was well happy. The tires are only provisional but its all I had. Up front some CRP dynamite spikes which I got in a miscellaneous parts lot from Mrlexan on ebay last year and in the rear some Tamiya Super Gripper oval blocks from my first Tamiya Hornet which I have had for over ten years! I have got JRX2 tie rods and CRP ball ends provisionally connecting up the front end and am on the look out for some Tecnacrafts. I think that's about it really, only a few more jobs. -I just need some front springs for the shocks and to clean up them and the rear motor mount. I have my eye out for Kyosho Option house Gold shocks though. -I need to mount the battery straps and belt tensioner. -I need to cut the shock tower and rear bulkhead to fit the trailing arm chassis and MIP 4x4 belt drive. -I need to get a rear wing and wing wire. I'd like a quite large square shape multi level wing in either alloy or Lexan. -Then its all the fun of deciding on a paint job (I have a Jammin body) and decals (I haven't any as yet). Any suggestions? Anyone got any vintage pics of past champions to copy? Thanks to everyone who's helped out so far and here are the pictures; From the front:- From the top:- Anyway, there weren't many comments from my last post (though thanks again to those who did) so let me know if this is interesting please. Cheers Ed P.S. More updates as I get parts. P.P.S. A big update for the SRB is forth coming.

Hi, I don't know much about the tanks so please forgive my ignorance, but you said you went out for a tank battle. Is this how I imagine? Whereby if you shoot the other person it imobilises there tank or something. I ask because I have heard of these MFU (Multi Function Units????) they have, is this one of the functions? Either way great pictures and it looked like a fun day out. Cheers

Oh there is a shop which has old AYK arms on ebay if you were after doing the Kyosho Scorpion style set-up as Terry.SC suggested.

Oh and thanks for posting the vid up I should have watched it first [:$] Perhaps trying to imitate an MIP RC10/SRB set-up would be good to get the looks you are after. I bought a wrecked set and have had to make my own arms and a few other bits and bobs (it wasn't to hard), if you didn't mind a bit of fabricating it might be fun.

Would the Hornet be classed as trailing arm? Albeit one massive trailing arm which comprises the gearbox also? I only mention it, as its a good bomb proof set-up which could be used cheaply in a project.

Hi jocktheglide, I am bad at writing and get things wrong so people take things the wrong way, my comments weren't meant only for you even though I obviously used the examples you did, it was not meant to antagonise you (I just have a gift with writing). [:$] As for my postage prices, I charge what the post office charges me, end of story. [] I am not trying to make myself out to be a saint [A] so don't get me wrong there, I was just having a gripe about ebay prices and postage padding, you posted that you padded prices and so my gripe kind of directed itself towards you, though no offence was intended. All I was saying in the end was, if you know it'll cost you $5.00 extra for posting it, start your item at $5.00 or say I need to charge extra for posting, then everyone knows the crack. For example I emailed a guy about an RC10 the other day and he said shipping would be $50 which is a lot, but he explained that, as he said he was disabled and needed help with some things like packaging and getting to the post office. He was up front and honest and I have no problem with that. I don't want to get into a slanging match I just wanted to have a moan. P.S. I never said I didn't like ebay. [] P.P.S. Does the shop name begin with a J?