Dr.Robotnik

[] lol it actually has 1000hp [] and you've only had it up to 90mph? So I am guessing that you haven't managed to make it into second gear yet [] A lot of the cars that have been mentioned are something Tamiya could easily churn out a lexan body kit for and wack it on some M-chassis or TLO. I do like the idea of more vintage cars like the Bentley. I think they would be a great proposition as an RC if they stayed faithful to the original in the chassis department. Anyone think they could turn an F350 into a Bentley? I'd say the chassis of that or a vintage 3-speed is a good start. Anymore ideas?

contains no RC related material - it is RC, It did bring something of general interest to the club, as people commented and asked questions.. I can't discuss more about my work, hence I am not going to write about it on a forum. I thought a pic of my robot which I use coincidently at work was going to be ok. someone posted pictures of their computer and said they used it to design decals on it - it would probably get comments, but wouldn't bring anything to the site so would be removed - There are any number of pics fitting your description on this site. Finally, although you dont mention it above, the email you were sent also mentoned it was removed because it used photos you do not own the copyright too - No I don't own the copyright but I had the copyright owners permission. There is no photo credit option on the site.

Sorry dude, I did calm down and went back and changed the title to "Removed showroom item, please comment!" before anyone had replied. I apologise for that. However you told me to start the thread. I didn't realise there was such a destinction about it being remote and not radio controlled. I am sorry that you think it is not RC related (even after the info. in my thread), I thought it was applicable after the other robots and non-rc stuff I mentioned that is on this site. It is wirelessly linked between the controller and robot but doesn't use radio waves. If you were to use it you'd understand why its just like a big RC toy. I can point you to any number of pics and showroom entries on this site that have nothing to with rc. I refrained from doing that in my thread post but briefly mentioned what they were and what there is. I entered my robot as the next item after another robot which also is not radio controlled and the person had used a stock pic. Your email didn't mention the copyright issue, however I had permission from Comau Estil to use the photos. I can forward the email you sent me if you don't believe me. I am calm now, and have taken your comments on board, I don't want to argue with you as its your site and you an run it however you wish. I just disagree with your comments. I'll keep it strictly RC in future. I have tried to delete the post but I have just found I can't delete the thread as its been replied to. Sorry to all concerned.

Dear All, Well yesterday after seeing mrfreezeuk (sorry for bringing you into this mate) had added a picture of a Robonova-1, I thought as I worked with robots (Dr.Robotnik) I might add the welding robot which I work with. This showroom item was taken down by the moderators last night and I cannot understand why. I received this in an email from the Tamiyaclub Moderation Team.moderators; - Contains no RC related material (Please use www.tcphotos.com for this type of material) - More suitable for forum - Sorry - know got off on the wrong foot, but we try and keep the showrooms for just hobby related material. (also for pictures that our members have copyright for) We have lots of members with lots of jobs and interests but if we allowed all of them to post pictures of then I'm sure you can see that the showrooms would be a lot less useful to the majority of the people visiting looking for hobby related info. That said with your membership you get access to www.tcphotos.com which is our generic picture hosting site, where you can post these types of thing with no problem at all. Contact me if you need any more information. Firstly the first point "contains no RC related material", I have to dispute this as the robot IS remote controlled, I even posted a picture of the remote controller and captioned it as such. "More suitable for the forum", I am not entirely sure how to respond to this one, seeing as in my previous showroom I listed such cars as RC10 MIP 4x4 Belt Drive, an MIP 4x4 Cable Drive SRB, and other very hopped up cars and didn't get one comment. Then I list the robot in my new showroom and got, I think about 6-7 comments in the space of the half a day it was up, then I'd say it was of more interest to your members than all my rare vintage RC stuff put together! Finally it was written that lots of people have jobs and interests and we can't let them all post (for those who didn't see it, I didn't have a rant about work (I can't as its all proprietary info. governed by the secrecy act) I wrote 4 lines mentioning what the robot was used for and its spec). Well that is fine and I understand that, however I posted the RC robot, I work with, I have used it to weld RC parts and people seemed interested. It turned out lots of people had had an interest in robotics. Similarly I have seen shots of peoples garages, desks and just pics of boxes, or pics of machines they have used to make parts or just a bunch of CAD pics none of which had any RC in them. In the email I was asked to read the rules and if I thought the item was taken down unjustly to start a thread, so please feel free to discuss this...

I had thought that as the Frog used a 540 motor it wouldn't be regarded as slow but I wrote it anyway in my post to make it slightly more controversial [] I had thought though that the original frog had no damping up front just springs? I'd also thought that I 'd heard somewhere that the original rear suspension was far to stiff? Either way I tend to agree with your cynical view about selling more hop-ups, although Tamiya does love to have bad days too, like you also said. Cheers for the reply. To stop myself hijacking the topic to much though, I think the Tam Techs look like a bit of fun and I was impressed by Moosey's (I think) vid showing a TT Fox going through its paces. They look fun but fairly disposable as an RC car. I can't see many lasting to long.

Oh by the way, have you ever gone 215mph? Obviously not on a normal road, before anyone gets upset [] If so what's it like? My car is a Ford Escort 16v 1.6l 4 cyl. which has an optimistic speedometer read top speed of 130mph, however at this speed, I think my mpg is similar to yours and the car feels fairly light in the controls and skittish.

Hahaha, I like the sound of the fuel economy on your Hennessey Viper, 6 miles to the gallon. Insane. I bet its fun to drive though! I've not heard of this car, though Google tells me only 32 were ever made. The spec sounds pretty wild too; Engine: V10 660 HP 650 ft/lbs Torque 0-60 mph in 3.3 sec 0-100 mph in 7.1 sec 0-100-0 mph in 11.5 sec Top Speed: 215 mph Anyway, they sound like great cars, but like you say probably wouldn't come up on Tamiya's list of cars to build. Maybe my questions should be rephrased. Is all motor sport boring now? Does have Tamiya have a 1:1 racing inspiration to draw from?

I have read a lot on this forum about which vintage car Tamiya should re-release next, but these are I understand (feel free to correct me), preferred over the modern RC cars because they look similar to the cars which were used at that time e.g. The Sand Scorcher was a VW Baja Beetle and was released in about 1979. It looks like a real car but is a vintage racer. Also people have commented on the golden era of Tamiyas having passed and people seem to think the new crop of designs for Tamiyas e.g. the 501 are butt ugly. Modern RC racing is now far more specialised so I think there should be a destinction between RC racing design and RC model design. There is obviously some trade off between the two. So I am going to stick with RC model design. My question is, which modern cars would be a good base for a new Tamiya RC model? Do you think Tamiya understand the difference between RC racing design and RC model design? Is there such a thing? I personally don't think Tamiya do, as they released the 30th anniversary vintage Porsche shell on a totally up to date racing chassis, surely a mish-mash of both? I hope this makes sense....cheers Ed

First let me say I have not got a Tamtech anything and I don't have a Tamiya Frog and I think I have read the posts correctly. As far as I understand it you guys have said; You like the fact the car looks like its original older brother but; The main disadvantages are; It has a low top speed Badly chosen springs No damping. I am no expert as I said before but chassis design aside do these attributes actually make it very faithful to the original?

Is the yellow car not a Mazda RX7? I would be very impressed if the red car is an RX8 wearing a Ferrari body kit, is it?

Thanks a lot shodog, I will try and give this a go this weekend if I manage to get some Rit dye in time. I have just got some old spare RC10 bits too to test on first. Thanks again! []

Thanks a lot for that [H]

I am just gonna give it a test with another pic;

Not wanting to hijack the thread (but managing anyway [] ). What does the url in the pictures posting thing refer to then? Some sort of web-hosting like http://photobucket.com/ ? Otherwise how do I post out of my showroom? Is this covered in other threads should I just search for it?

I just found out the other day from jim123 that part of the dual bearing'd RCH rear nylon arms kit was the part no: 729 axle collars. these apparently fitted between the universal and inner bearing to stop them falling out! I also have a dual bearing'd rear armed, black bumper, screws in the front, etc, etc Sand Scorcher (unfortunately not NIB so I am ineligible for the prize) but with very little run time. Now after having had only a few gentle runs the inner bearings are loose and are no longer retained by the bearing seat. Perhaps then dual bearings seem like a good idea, but in practice aren't.

Hi guys and girls, I need some help/advice on how to dye vintage RC parts. I recently tried to strip anodizing with incomplete information and wrecked a perfectly usable pair of Kyosho Gold Shocks so please forgive the excessive questions and worrying.[:S] I would like to find a how-to for dying nylon parts. I am looking at you here shodog [] and anyone else who dyes parts! I have done a search for previous topics on dying and haven't found a how-to. So far I know that there is a product in the US called Rit that is a better dye than Dylon and that's about it. Basically I have been collecting SRB & RC10 hop-ups and am coming to the end of my projects and am now looking at the finishing touches to the chassis before I move onto the dreaded task of painting and restoring bodies. I would like to dye my RC parts British Racing Green as I have a Gold/Green/Cream colour scheme planned for the bodies and the RCH alloy hop-ups are gold. Any other suggestions or does this sound good? The parts I have seem both nylon (RCH) and glass reinforced nylon (MIP). Is there a different method used for each type of plastic? I absolutely do not want a washed colour. I see the dye jobs mainly on old RC10's on ebay and shudder, I am after a solid consistent colour. So how do you ensure solid colour penetration? As the parts are different sizes and weights do you have to be meticulous in weighing the parts and the appropriate amount of dye? If not how do you make sure the different parts all come out the same colour? Do you just have to dye in one big batch? As you have to boil the parts in a pan do you put them in a strainer to submerge them in the water but keep them off the bottom of the pan which will be hotter? I am scared of melting vintage parts to the bottom of a pan [:|]. Do you need to be careful in the parts preparation to make sure they are all clean and residue free? Whats the best method to remove the grease/gunk/oil on used parts of this type? Is a thinner good? If so are there different types or strengths/anything to avoid? Any ideas to polish out the major marks or prepare parts which have scuff marks from use? If there is/are any more questions I should have asked please let me know. I would like to end up with a step by step how to with products to use, things to avoid, etc. not a plastic mess. Thanks in advance for any help. [8-|]

Thanks mate [] still stoked that I can post on here!

Hi Railey72, first of all let me say that that is sweet looking vintage SRB racer. I'll just re-confirm that, that is an RCH rear suspension hop-up as I have one my self. I hadn't fitted mine because the pivots collided with the radio box. I can see on yours though there are two small aluminium spacers to bring the pivots away from the roll bar and radio box. So thanks for the extra pics you've put up because they helped me solve the fitting problem I had. Your car has many nice original features befitting a racing car of this era. Far be it for me to tell you how to modify the car, I'd just like to say that for racing the orginal bodies weren't used as they were to heavy and fragile. Racers of this time were fitted with a half lexan body like yours is now, so it is period correct. I have a number of the hop-ups you've used and you'd have to modify an original shell quite extensively to clear all the extras on your car e.g. the alloy rollcage, suspension hop-up, wing etc and it would obscure the beautiful hop-ups (I've looked into it myself as I don't have a lexan body like yours [] ). If you are after a more standard Sand Scorcher or Rough Rider I'd trade you a standard car for yours in a heart beat [] (If I had one in good enough condition) Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do. Finally though can I continue to pester you for more pictures?

I am not sure I can help you identify your arms, but I have these made by a Scandinavian manufacturer S. Andreassen for the RR, SS and F150 XLT. According to the instructions you were to bore out the rear a-arm pivots to 5mm (the same size as was eventually used on the Super Champ) to fit the kit. Maybe yours could have been a similar hop-up? Sorry I can't be of any more assistance, but maybe in my pic you can see a similarity, I'm not sure. Not entirely sure why my pic isn't showing so here's the link instead; http://www.tamiyaclub.com/pictureframe.asp...006151228_1.jpg

Cheers mate, I've been a member a while now but had problems posting to the forum until now [] Hence the test.

I'm just confirming I can use the forum!