hardb8

Hi m8, I used to have a Grassy with a Scorcher body and a 9 turn sextuple Dirtinator in it,No good for track stuff,Just too wild.It was built for staight line sand drags against the brother.With these cars being so light,And being on the beach,(near zero traction/gearbox load)The diff was never an issue,I just used the stock Hornet 18t pinoin gear.I never broke anything,Over heated my speedo,Or dropped any wires. This badboy wasn't driven...It was aimed...LOL.

Hi m8, I'm in Aus,And I was told be my local that the production of the Frog box kit will be ending very soon,But it will still be available in RTR form,Dunno if this is true or not,But it is what he told me.We were just chatting,And I told him I already had two,So he wasn't trying to get a sale.As mentioned above,He also stated that the Hornet wasn't shipped to Aus for sale. You can send ya collection to my house if ya like?I promise I'll take real good care of em.LOL. Cheers Rick.

Hi <>, This is how I was shown as a kid (Early 80's) to rebuild a modifyed motor,Back then I never had access to com lathes and stuff,And I was only 5 or 6 years old,So money was a problem.LOL.It shouldn't cost you much to do.You'll need a few items though :- A sheet of wet and dry sandpaper.Graded between 1200 - 2000 grit,The higher the number the better. A bottle of Shellite,1 litre. And a new pair of brushes,And possibly springs? The top two items should be available at ya local hardware,With the Shellite usually being found amongst the Metho,Turpintine,etc. And ya brushes and (Springs if ya need em) At ya local hobby shop. Here we go.....First make a note of which way your end bell (Screw on top piece that holds ya brushes) sits on your motor can.Draw a diagram or mark it with a scribe/scratch.If you put it on backwards,This will reverse the polarity of ya motor and it will run backwards.It's not a big deal.As to fix this problem you just have to turn the end bell 180 degrees.But better to just mark it from the start. Now ya can start to pull it down.Take off ya two brush springs,And slide the brushes out from their hoods,Now is a good time to check they slide in and out of the hoods with a minimum of effort/friction.Next completely remove the two small screws from the end bell and take it off.Try to take note of the number of shims (Small metal washers) on the top and bottom of the armeture shaft.These should be placed back in the same place for the rebuild.Note not all motors are shimed.And the number of washers,Top and bottom will vary from motor to motor.They're there to keep the armature from moving up and down when running.And if shimmed correctly the armeture should be in the (Sweetspot) of the magnetic field of the can with a minimum of play. Now turn the endbell lock ring so that the four key ways line up and remove it.Now the armeture is free to come out (Watch for bottom shims) Your motor should be full apart now apart from the bearings,Which I recommend you leave in unless replacing. Start by cleaning the commutator,This is the small three poled brass thing at the top of the armeture.Clean the three groves with the end of your brush springs/stanley blade or old tooth brush.Be carefull to try and not damage/distort the surface (Which contacts the brushes) Then wrap the wet and dry sandpaper around the commutator and start turnin.When it is a shinny gold colour all over you are done. Steal an old coffee mug (Or similar) from the kitchen for cleaning. Now you can clean all the parts End bell,Motor can,Armeture etc with Shellite and (A small paint brush works well) Once you are done,Put it back together.And install your new brushes.Soldering brushes is more efficient than screwing them in (It's up to you) Just make sure they slide in the hoods smoothly. First lay down an old towel/Rag,As this bit can be messy.Replace the Shellite used for cleaning with some fresh clean stuff.Hook up your motor either directly to your battrey,Or ya speed control.And with the motor running flat out....Dunk it....in the Shellite.Make sure you have enough to completly cover the motor when it is dropped in,Keep it under and running for about 5 - 10 seconds,You should notice the RPM increase quite a bit straight after it goes under,And the Shellite will turn black with gunk from the motor.Pull the motor out and keep it running for another 5 - 10 seconds. Replace the Shellite again and dunk her again.You can repeat this process untill the Shellite remains clean after the motor has been removed,Or just untill ya happy eg :- (Slightly cloudy)...........My Father has been telling me for years that I'm gonna catch fire doing this.LOL.As Shellite is flamable,And there is quite a few sparks that come off the commutator.I personally have done around 300+ motors,And my brother the same,And we have never had a single incident.But I'd hate to see an accident or anyone harmed.You have been warned.Anything is possible.LOL. Now all you have to do is oil ya bearings,At the top and bottom of the can.This can be done while the motor is together of you wish,But it's more effective to pull it apart again.You only need a few drops.You'll find once you get familiar with motors it becomes quick and easy. Another little tip :- If you apply a little extra tension to the brush spring on the positive side of the can (Just bend it a little),It can increase performane slightly. With the out lay of stuff,Some of which you are sure to have lying around home,You should be able to rebuild ya motor several times.For 540 stockers,Just dunk em and oil em.It makes the world of difference to an old motor. Please forgive me if you know alot of this stuff already,But I know nothing of your knowledge,And I've just written a basic cleaning proccedure that has been very effective for me over the years,Shimming is another whole page on its own.Without expensive equipment.It has turned clapped out old bommers into tyre shreddin,Chassis breakin animals.LOL.It's great to revive an old favourite. Let me know how ya go...Cheers Rick.

G'day m8, The number of turns a motor has refers to the amount of times the wire is wrapped around the armeture inside the motor can. The lower number of turns the faster it'll go.Eg a 9 turn motor is pretty quick...A 27 turn motor is pretty slow. You may also know or not know about singles,Doubles,Triples etc,etc. This refers to the amount of wires used in the winds. Eg a 10 turn double has two wires wrapping the armeture ten times.And say a 10 turn Sextuple has six wires wrapping the armeture ten times. The different ammount of wires used will effect torque and overall RPM. A 10 single will have a high RPM. A 10 triple will have a lower RPM,But it will have more torque than the single turn motor.And will reach it's max RPM quicker. Hope I've been of some help. Rick.

Hi all, I'm only new here,And thought that maybe as a new member,Sellers would understand the newer guys line of thinking.I have been involved with Tamiya models from my first car,The Grasshopper,Till my last,The Dyna Storm.Then I fell away from the hobby for about 8-10 years.Now I'm back,And rebuilding my Scorcher.This transpired from stumbling across this addictive site through a goggle search.And my love of Tamiya cars has been rekindled by the members here.I have been absolutly astounded by the value of certain kits and items in todays market. I've been looking up all my old favourites here and on the bay.And when I find a car here for sale.That I'd be genuinely intrested in,And find the make me an offer line.I'm totally put off.And don't bother to ask.As mentioned above,I don't want to offend the seller.But it's very frustrating seeing something you want,And not knowing a real market value of the item.But I'm learning daily. I applaude the straight shooters of the site...Superchamp John for example.Had HIS price ON a Fast Attack Vehicle listing....I wanted it,And I was prepaired to pay for it.Deal done.No guessing.No offence to either party.And us both happy.Thanks m8. I think the best offer is about trying to get the most they can for their particular item.If this is your game.....Put it on ebay! I understand that some items hold sentimental value for sellers.But remember,This value is worth nothing to all other buyers. My personal opinoin is that sellers would have much more success,With prices listed on items...Sellers,Put what you want on it...It'll sell and you'll be happy...Or it won't...And you'll still be happy.Because you're not getting what you want for it. This way everybody knows exactly where they stand. Just my thoughts.

Pete/Europro, Thanks very much for the offers,But I'm trying to find the originals,Black with the You-G Product writing on the sides.I know it sounds a little picky,But I have an original front set and would like the matching rears.I have access to the after market Eagles just down the road,And have seen the Trolls on the bay quite regularly........I really appreciate your time,And offers,Thankyou. Still lookin if anyone else can help? Thanks again guys. Rick.

G'day gang, I'm chasing a set of You-G rear tires (1.5" For Frog etc.), And would like new ones if anybody has a set.If anybody can direct me to where you know of some this would also be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time. Rick.

G'day all, I am hoping a member on board can help me source an original Frog decal sheet.I understand these would be a rear find,But just though I'd give it a go.I'd also appreciate any info on some quality repro sets of the originals if anyone knows of a supplier? Many thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this quest. Cheers from Down Under. Rick.

Hi there, I was hoping somebody can help me?I would like a ball diff for the FAV.Does anyone know if they are curently available from an aftermarket maufacturer? I have also read that the rerealsed Frog has a ball diff,But details seem a little sketchy.Can anyone confirm this for me? If the Frog does have them it will fit straight in and this would keep my Tamiya fitted with genuine parts,Which is what I would prefer. Cheers Rick.

G'day all, I would like to know your opinions on these two manufacturers setups.Price is irrelevant.Pros' & Cons' would be nice. Looking foward to any input. Cheers Rick.