scienceguy

there were two "Hunters" made in the mid-late 80's - Marui made a 2WD jeep called the hunter, and also i think it was Kyosho that made a 4WD buggy with the same name. there has never been, for the record, any Tamiya Hunter, so be careful with that auction. -John

looks like i'll have to some experimenting! thanks for the info, i'm putting in a call to the BMW place...

the wheels and tyres are from a late-80's "monster truck" made by traxxas with a single 540 motor, 4-wheel steering, and a highly un-detailed lexan body. forget the name of that truck, but it was very short-lived. -John

btw , before you have really killed a hopper, you had some serieus mayham **** right. you need to do some seriously stupid driving to completely thrash a hopper/hornet-type car. either that, or a few direct blows with a hammer! if its a GH1, the more stock it is the higher the resale. -John

looking for a way to preserve old tamiya tyres. have a wild willy 1 with excellent original tyres, but we all know how fast they can begin to crack when you least expect it! would armor-all work, or something else...? -John Please post a topic only in one category, makes it easier to follow and brings more relevant replies

looking for a way to preserve older tamiya tyres. have a wild willy 1 with excellent original tyres, but we all know how they can start to crack when you least expect it! would armor-all work, or something else...? -John

The title says it all. Having a rotten run of luck on eBay finding one that isn't sniped or something. Thanks in advance for any selling offers. -John

Where the heck was I for this auction?! Aaaagh! Anybody got a line on a Hornet in similar condition...? -John

I'll send you 50 dollars and my girlfriend. -John

The technical explanation to "no current loss" connectors is that they do not create a hindrance to electric current as it passes the point of the connector - its as if a connector isn't even there. The widely-used Tamiya style connectors are not this type, and so block a bit of current, but this loss is negligible unless you're doing some serious racing and need every last millivolt of power to reach your motor, in which case the "no current loss" items are the only way to go. -John

Didn't mean to be a downer, mate, its just that eBay itself (even our beloved R/C corner!) can be a place of very good or very bad issues, and this forum is a perfect chance to vent in a manner not allowed anywhere other than a few words in "Feedback." Agree with the 'can't we all just get along' policy, though any place money and merchandise are contractually exchanged is potentially volatile. -John

Chris- You may do well to subscribe to Roby's way of thinking and take this forum out. It isn't as though all parties would take heed to the rules if a set of them were posted in relation to this forum in particular, and to police such rules would be as increasingly futile as minding the entire forum is becoming. Also, it isn't as if the personal attacks, unfounded rumors, or any other undesirable thing left here will decrease over time - membership only goes up, and therefore so will inappropriate postings related to eBay. -John

I converted one of the old futaba "big steering knob in front" radios to use current frequency and bandwidth internals, but in the end should rather have actually just used the Magnum radio I stripped the parts out of. But hey, somebody had to do it, right?... and it looked cool, but the level of control I had over the car was nothing compared to using a modern radio (even the stick-type). -John

As someone who searched for ages for his still-shrinkwrapped Sand Scorcher, I'm honored to be the first to offer you lots and lots of luck in searching for the holy grail (outside of the Bruiser) of Tamiya kits. -John

As a previous owner of numerous ADSPEC systems I can say that these radios perform admirably, but really are nothing but Futaba radio sets with the bits & switches in slightly different places. They're unique because they have Tamiya labeling to back them, but save yourself a little extra and go with a good Futaba setup that has the exact same features, and will do you just as well (and last forever!) -John