Lonestar

25 simultaneous readers Re LiFe - afaik, 5C charges... but **** discharge rates compared to Lipo. Of course, for the mighty 540SH powerplant this should be plenty enough haha! Note that 5C charges is quite a feat to achieve with a "normal" charger and PS combo if your battery is anything more than, say, 1.5Ah To those of you who are crying their lungs out because of how much money you "lost" on these NiB kits you just bought a few weeks ago... hey, you are the ones who made the vintage market like it is today, ie something a lot of vintage enthusiasts can't (or shall I now say couldn't?) afford to enjoy any more... It was long overdue that that trend reverses. Investing 101: nothing is risk-free Hopefully this will also weed out some of the borderline ebay evil sellers who were actually making somewhat of a living off the vintage nib kits just because they could (didn't quote any names, mind you). Flame me if you want, but I say, bring on more re-re's tamiya! Me wants supershots, 959's, Avante's, Astute's!!! Forget about the selected few who suddenly cry over the value of their collection dropping tenfold, they aren't the true enthusiasts anyway! We, the joe schmoes of vintage RC collecting, are! Give us what we need and can afford! Thank you Mr. Tamiya! Paul (PS: just pre-ordered two )

84 series are LE's

my goodness what would it have been if 28yokid had tried a real man's motor My FD also keeps loosing wheelnuts. Not sure why, the thread on the axles is probably "vintage" Serrated wheelnuts (not necessarily locknuts btw) are your best bet agains it. Get some Hot Bodies ones, the ones for the Moorespeed Cyclone. Not cheap, but available separately. If you put the 9T back in make with these wheels make sure you gear down. Gravel track? you're indeed better off with the slowest motor you can find as you won't be able to lay power down anyway... especially with a sensorless BL like the hobbywing ones. You also might want to consider tires with less studs and more space between then as such minispikes will "glide" above the loose surface and you'll be driving on ice. Anyway - have fun no matter what Paul

Hi there I'm not sure I'm getting the point of dropping relatively big, modern motors in vintage cars (re-re or not). It only highlights how incompetent they were in the days (boomy was the worst understeering car, ever) in the first place, and how much time has taken its toll on them now 20+ years have passed through... last but not least parts are not as easily available for re-re as they are for modern cars... how about just getting a modern 4WD for barely more money than the boomer, that will perform infinitely better and be way more reliable instead? Would you drop a blown 2L subaru mill in your 1962 VW beetle? Paul

as long as it's in production and available in nib by the bucketload for $70 a pop on ePay, doesn't qualify as vintage to me... Paul

how about a NiB Salute while you're at it??? seriously Paul

So that's how much the smell "taints" the hard, plastic and metal parts... now imagine with the smokers' lungs alveoles... Paul

leave them as is. there's no point running 103-octane fuel in a nissan micra. Paul

Terry, can you confirm I read this properly? The red plug is cranking out exactly whatever tension is coming out of the battery output plug? Paul

except he's talking BL motors here Running 4.5 in a non-competitive environment is a bit too much strain on everything btw. You might have bought a motor which is a bit too powerful for your own good... my advice to you is, keep the 4.5 in a drawer for a few months, in the meantime buy a 7.5 or so (plenty fast enough for a noob) and do your teething on it... once you've mastered the subtleties of fdr's and controller setups, and you're willing to spend the cash in proper batteries that can deliver the infamous levels of current a 4.5 requests, then slap the 4.5 back in 9.5 doesn't sound so out of whack for a 4.5, although that sounds like a 5-cell ratio to me unless you're seriously racing. Paul

get proper metric pitch if you can. It will last longer and be more efficient (read: quiter and faster) Metric and standard pitches "work" together, but are not optimal. kindof like using a 2.9mm screw with an M3 nut (if such a thing exist) rather than an M3. Paul

Prices would sure help... Paul

Freud calls this a "missed action" haha Paul

well they're showcasing it with a 2400 NiCad... which means it's been in development even longer than that Paul

what? you didn't snap a BW re-re while there were still some around??? sorry- brain fade! and good catch Paul

No durbalgadre in my collection I have to admit (although I'm thinking about getting one)... but I've built and raced competitively modern electric racers (on and offroad) for the last 12 yrs, up until now and still planning to do it the next 12 yrs at least... Remember tamiya manuals also recommends to grease external transmission parts for their offroad cars, such as dogbone pins and diff outdrives for instance, which no experienced modeller in their right mind would do As usual, contradicting a long-established forum member (whether on tamiyaclub or any other technical internet forum) means trouble, so let me withdraw from that discussion right away. Sorry for the trouble, if any. Paul Additional edit: the 501X diffs are very similar... no notch in the ring... and the instructions don't recommend any kind of permanent fixing of the ring to the outdrive... which anyway means PITA maintenance later on as the diff rings are disposable anyway.

Sorry to contradict the master but this is wrong. The balls will roll, and even slip on the metal diff rings waaaaay before the diff rings rotate on the outdrive (Assuming the diff was built properly in the first place). No notch needed... For info none of the Xray electric cars have notches on their diff rings/outdrives... and none of the Xray drivers glue them (barrign a few oddballs), as this adds risk not to glue them flatly which will shorten their lives tremendously. However there should be a slight cushion of silicon grease between the outdrive and the ring to help prevent the "slip/stick" effect. I know it is counterintuitive... flame me if you want Paul

This will never be emphasized enough - the worst shape the vintage car you buy, the most overspent you will be once done restoring it So enjoy the polishing, because that's where the reward is hehe Paul

neither is the DF03 - still people talk about it quite a bit in this thread... I just completed a re-re Fire Dragon, with modern electronics (19T motor + lipo), some front unis I had laying around, bearings... despite the poorly manufactured conic gears (we've talked this a while ago) which took about 5hrs of break-in on the bench, I think the car has classic-basher potential! I've only had the chance to run it once in the yard because of the crappy weather, but I have to say I'm happily surprised by the handling which is actually pretty "modern" despite the stupidly sticky CVA's (anyway these were the top-of the line shocks of the era). We'll see about A5, I'll try to make a custom brace for it... I regularly run my boomer (not re-re) and it brings a smile to my face every time, if only because of the ludicrous understeer it systematicaly displays! I recently picked up an egress, and I think this thing should have potential... I'd be scared crapless to run it once restored though! Same for my bigwig re-re, so I guess these two don't qualify Last of the first 100's 4WD I worked on was a Dirt Thrasher which I rebuilt for a buddy... well I was really surprised by the performance of that one, the durability is also tops, it looks cool (as opposed to the manta ray), parts are cheap and plentiful, it was doing ok in period races whether in manta ray of topforce configuration... It takes my win! Later Paul

Brushed - KO VFS-1 and all its declinations (Tamiya Volac, Hara Twister, and the others)... simply the absolute best ESC, period, there's a reason why this was the last world champ brusherd ESC in the most demanding category (Andy Moore in touring car, 2006). Brushless - I think the Hobbywing 35A controller is a stunning blow to the RC electronics market, making the other manufacturers make nightmares! Great "coup" from the chinese, good job guys Paul

Terry was just the quickest re value - depends what shape they're in, and what paint was used on them... Paul

exactly! A VLB with a 23T can be a lot more fun than a full blown racer that can handle a lot of power.... Try a 19T in a grasshopper with a lipo, you'll see what i mean! Paul

hi there if I may, actually, this is exactly the other way around. A TT01 will survive a full-speed crash much better than a competition level touring car, and I mean both of them running the same speed. the competition car is rigid and lightened, which means it will suffer decelerations much worse than the marshmallow-made TT01. Hit a board with a CycloMi415TC5 at 40mph and you'll rip the front end apart, litterally (parts will be scattered all over the track). Do the same with a TT01, the plastic will bend at the impact, absorb the energy, and then come back in place. Paul

Hi there interested in a swap for a Bnib F201 original (the one with 2 bods, clear and carbon-patterned)? thnaks Paul

Hi guys I found a cheap ww clutch gear, complete, new - I don't have any ww but I was wondering if this could be dropped in with no adaptation into other cars, to allow for a slipper clutch effect which is dearly missing on soooo many tamiya offroaders. Thanks! Paul