Lonestar

SOLD!

Make offers via PM please - thanks! Paul

Hi all NiB GT01 Lamborghini Countach LP500S, the finest ever from Sant'Agata, 60GBP shipped to your door in the UK from Switzerland - others destinations please ask. Paypal only please. Thanks, Paul

Hi all NiB Fire Dragon, no ESC, 65GBP shipped to your door in the UK from Switzerland - others destinations please ask. Paypal only please. Thanks, Paul

Hi all NiB M04M Giulia for sale, no ESC, 60GBP shipped to your door in the UK from Switzerland - others destinations please ask. Paypal only please. Thanks, Paul

Hi there the issue with this car is, it's a car that trades in very low volumes, not only because the offers are rare, but also because demand is scarce... it's a matter of selling it right when there's a buyer hunting for one. as a result, the price can vary tremendously... You best shot is to list it on ebay with no reserve as a lot of folks like me don't bid on reserve'd items at all any more... and please send me the auction number when you do so Paul

Heck I remember the days when timed chargers were a luxury!!!

Hi there, I'm probably a complete moron but I think it'd be much easier to post links directly to your showroom cars themselves... I tried to locate your WW2 MS but didn't succeed. I'm potentially interested depending on condition - thanks! Paul

Thanks all and Terry - sounds like full compatibility then. cheers Paul

Indeed Ooople is where I got tipped that this might work - unfortunately the review wasn't absolutely positive this would be the case. Thanks though. I guess my only hope is now to get someone to try it for me... Paul

Hi there thanks for trying to help. I already own litterally dozens of near-new, rear competition-level (read: expensive) tires mounted on Losi rims because I used to (and stil do actually) run a Losi 2wd offroad (XXX BK1). As you know, tires are the biggest budget line item when RC'ing seriously, especially offroad - they wear out fast, and you need different patterns for different conditions. I am tempted to go for a Durga/Baldre as I can get a nicely hopped up one for a good price, as long as the rims fit because if they do that would allow me to not have to spend another couple of hundred bucks in tires to adapt to the track/surface/traction condition. So, my exact question is - is the offset of the losi rim the exact same one as the Durga rim (or the 501X's for that matter if I think properly) and can I reuse my stock without any afterthought? I need a bit more certainty than "they #should# fit"... Can anyone else please help on that one? For instance - the losi and AE rims, although similar in design and drive system (the famous pin sticking out of the axle), aren't interchangeable as the offset is different, ie the rims will rub on the arms and upper balljoints... Thanks! Paul

Hi all can anyone confirm whether Losi rear wheels would fit on the DB01, the mounting system is the same (ie pin captured in the rim) but I'm wondering about the offset... I have a pile of rear tires mounted on Losi rims and I'm looking into buying a BalDurGaDre maybe if this fits and hence save costs... Thanks! Paul

Will limit myself to 10 "only" 1- Boomerang - low and mean... and one of my first loves 2- Marui Ninja - 'nuff said 3- AYK Viper - black rollcage with gold shocks... yummy! 4- Kyosho Javelin - rollcages rule 5- Wild One - perfect balance, low slung, and apparent shocks, looks real! 6- Grasshopper - there's something about the hopper that makes it special... prolly the padlatrack and the sand buggy harmony! 7- AE original RC10 - with KC lights 8- Marui Samurai - for the hi-tech looks and these fantastic pseudo-magnesium wheels! 9- Kyosho Assault - like a scorpion, but with that nice hanging engine in the rear 10- BigWig - looks "different", so over the top, but such a fantastic testimony of what the 80's were about - the "Hair Rocker" of RC Paul

+1 for re-re VLB - you can't look at it and say "dang I wish I owned the real one from the 80's", as it IS the real one (barring the steering links) To be completely fair I haven't tried the WWII, but I don't really see how its modern double wishbone suspension can generate as much fun as the VLB's haha! Paul

Hi there, I have a NiB Bulldog Rollcage, with the included lexan driver... all new, complete. 35GBP + s&h and it's yours Paul

So what exactly were the connections between Academy and Engine Works? Paul

Hi There I just "finished" restoring a Hunter, which basically is a Galaxy with different shock setup. The car was destined to be a runner, but after a lot of work in the resto and getting knowledge of the internals, I figured out it wouldn't be worth it to be honest. The rear single a-arm suspension setup is sub-standard, although robust, and the current pulled by the motor varies so much given the angle of the arms that the conclusion is the U-joints system is very inefficient. The Transmission looks also very fragile (as confirmed above). The tires on mine, although looking ok, are actually dry-rotten... And then again the Marui plastics don't have that good a reputation for holding up agains the effects of time. I don't dare running it - there has been to much work going in the resto, and I know I will be disappointed at the first turn of the wheels in the dirt anyway. It still is an entry-level racer from 1984... Looks really awesome, though Paul

Sir, I beg your pardon to do that, but I do happen to run a central one way with a spool sometimes (and so do quite a few fast racers actually, including some national and international level drivers). As explained, it gives a bit more stability than a one-way while still being a bit more agressive than a spool. YEs there is only braking on the rear end but the forced slip angle at the front induced by the coupling of the front wheels still allows not to have the car snap on you when you gently tap the brakes. In certain grip conditions this is the perfect setup tool. For your info, this configuration got more popular after Xray released the T1-FK05 with the multi-diff as a standard item in the box. Just because *you* think it's not worth trying it doesn't mean people aren't winning with such a setup. Try it and THEN share your input. And remember to think twice before you say "never" and not to be so assertive about things you aren't familiar with... no offense intended/taken (just, though) Paul

whatever floats your boat, really. The TT01 has the huge advantage of being almost indestructible and inexpensive. if you start hopping it up, it makes it more fragile, and less inexpensive... and in the end it remains a TT01 with this flawed, non-adjustable suspension design full of friction, slop, and hysteresis at the same time as well as its sub-standard wheel track (175mm if I'm not mistaken, I measured mine a few days back). I know, I have one, and I race TOCA - not with it, though Paul

well I used to diss traxxas since as fair as I can remember... then I got a nice almost-mint bullet for cheap and i thought mmmh, not so uninteresting... then I picked up a TRX-1 for an ok price (if anyone has a body for it I'll buy it...) and a couple of days ago I purchased a NiB TRX-3 (for a substantial amount of cash)... I need a RadII now Haaa the addiction of collecting On another note I also just finished a Robbe Rainbow... that's an RC sailboat. If you had told me 10y ago I'd be into Sailboats I would have called the asylum so they come pick you up. But now I absolutely love sailing it (then again had you told me 10y ago I'd be married with kids I would have shot you between the eyes ) Paul

oh - cool rules! Is it me or does a good 27T have an unfair advantage vs. a 17.5??? 27T are closer to 13.5's... I second the choice of yeah racing hard cased lipos - I have 2, and so does my friend Wireless, and we feel it's the best bang for the buck we've ever had Paul

Hi again I think it all depends what you're going to the vintage nationals for... if it's just to run an old friend and thrash it around the track, then the WO with 101BK and silver can should be plenty fun... but if you're going there like you're going to war, with the intention not be left in the dust, then be aware that some guys will go there to run some competition-worthy cars a la fully decked out RC10 and JRX-2... in which case (assuming they have the driving skills) you might want to run a bit more HP than just a silver can... but then again the WO might not be the best choice at all (neither the frog btw) Paul

Well, 17.5 isn't that scary, really. Probably less than a sport tuned. would you be worried to throw a sport tuned in your WO? Paul

to simplify: - one way diff is basically a system that in drives the 4 wheels with no front wheelspin in the air on-power, and the rear wheels off power when not in a straight line- that last part of the sentence you should read as "my car drives exactly as a 2WD when entering corners". Please note that under throttle, a one way acts like a spool ie no front wheels spinning frantically in the air - center one way is typically used in conjunction with a front spool (ie rigid axle). Under throttle, works exactly like a normal one way or a spool, ie it's locked and helps with front wheel motricity. When braking into turns, the effect is somewhere between a spool and a one-way, ie it turns sharper than with two diffs, but because the front wheels are not independent it doesn't snap as violently as when using a front one-way. To summarize hi grip and driving skills and flowing turns: one way low grip low skills tight corners to brake in: spool in between: spool + one way diff The combination one way + one way diff together I never understood, to be honest Later Paul

Welcome back to the hobby - it's still a fun place, the issue you're having is probably related to an uninformed choice of gear - read on As mentioned above, 3000NiMH packs are either made from hobby-grade cells which have been discontinued a loooong time ago by Sanyo (3000HV) and were pretty bad in terms of reliability and resilience even when they were new (actually they're one of the worst batteries ever released in terms of noob-friendliness), or from non-hobby-grade cells. In both cases, these will have low voltage, high internal resistance, in a word, they will make the car feel like a dud. One must know that one should always try to buy "fresh" cells, as NiMH ages just by sitting on the shelf. You battery packs are very likely to be your problem, and if they aren't yet, they will soon be... One other thing I was thinking about - make sure your ESC (electronic speed controller) 's "full throttle" is set up properly. This could be a combined cause of the poor top speed you're experiencing. I don't see anything wrong with the charger specs, although I tend not to trust Duratrax's product overall (except the Ice, maybe...). As said above too, stick packs have a tendency to false peak esp when new. If charging at 3A/5A (both should give the same results with such stick packs), the pack should be warm to the touch when done. If still cold, it false peaked, which typically is coming from the pack rather than the charger. Charging such packs at 3A can take anywhere from 50mns with an old pack that has lost its capacity to 1h10 with one that sits at the hig-end of the statistical spectrum... that also assumes the charger keeps delivering 3 "real" amps to the pack, which is rarely the case with low-end chargers to be completely fair Hope this helps, Paul