Mankku

Yes and yes, the pinion is a press-on and it has 15 teeth. The Audi, Opel and Wheeler with the similar gearboxes had 18t, also press-ons. You can also use a 18t pinion in your WW1 (I do for the moment) but then you have to use the gearbox alu-plate from one of those other cars also...... As what I have heard, Tamiya never made bolt-on pinions for these cars, you had to buy the motor with the pinion pressed on...... Just saw one on eBay by the way...... Mag

Ok, thanks to You all guys............ Mag

Any idea to get the alloy lower arms seen on eBay, are the plastic ones weak? Any other "must have" replacements for this truck? Mag

Ok, thanks so far. Having trouble finding hexs, Tow.hob. might get some in the end of the month. The importer here up north is also checking his shelfs.... maybe Ill get lucky... What do You think about shocks, Tamiya or the GPM alloy? Tamiya has a few models to choose between (low fric. and super low fric.) Mag

Just picked up a WW2 from eBay, it didnt have the original Tamiya rearwheels but some smaller showelwheels that fits badly (wrong offset, smaller and no hexfit). The hexes were missing too so I need a new pair if Ill find original wheels for it. Now I wonder will these fit ? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GPM-Alloy-Driver-Was...1QQcmdZViewItem or these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-x-Tamiya-Wheel-Hex...1QQcmdZViewItem Since I dont have the original rearwheels I cant measure the hex size on the original wheels, is it 12mm? It is 12mm on my WW1... Or should I skip the original frontwheels and get a new set of wheels for the whole car, and if so what kind? Ill ballrace it, put in an ESC and oil dampers. Anything else to make it better? I have seen wideners for it somewhere, experiences anybody? Ill put in som pics maybe tomorrow.... Thanks, Mag

Great to get so much advice, thanks guys.... Any idea to just make the truck wider but not extending it, or...? Have any of you had experince with Li-pos ? Mag

Ok, thanks for fast response. So the alu battery holder is useless if I want to use 2 * 7,2v packs? Who makes those wheelbase wideners? I will probably most of the time use the truck for just backyard bashing...... Thanks Mag

Supposed to be UPGRADE not Uprade.... Sorry Hello guys I know Im not the first one to ask this but Im asking anyway... Thinking about getting a TXT-1 and I would like to get all needed hop-ups at the same time. A few qs: Do the Tamiya alu cantilevers come in pack of 2? so I would need 2 packs.....? And the longer shocks, do I need them? Are they also in 2 packs so I need 2 of them also? Any idea of getting the alu battery-holder? The alu axel guard I guess I need also.... What about the body mount plates? and has anybody experience from the lightweight chassis? (its expensive....) Body post mounts..? Read also something about the sloppy original servosavers...? Diff. shafts? Motor, ESC and servos I think I know what I want and a full bearing set ofcourse. Anything else? hope you got patience whit my qs..... Mag

Well I got it all assembled after a time of getting parts from hobby-shops and over eBay. Thank you guys for all help you gave me, especially Jeff, your hints really made sense....! It takes a while to get in to the "business" again after beeing out of it for 20 some years.....! Got the propeller joints and shaft from the Boomerang and they fit perfectly, also had problems with selftapping screwholes in the gearboxes but those I just drilled through (where possible) and used bolt-flangenut. Got a new chassis and controlbox from HS2 and they are almost identical with the ones for mine HotShot. Also had a cracked oil seal at one of the shocks, that I glued with Locktite and some silicone. Anyone knows if it is possible to get new oil seals like these ones? Maybe some newer models uses same size? Also had to put in a new 17t motor in from GM-racing, a Hi-tech ESC and a new batterypack. Yes it ate a bit of money but it was all worth it after the first testrun. It got so mutch power it is almost impossible to go full throttle on the snow. It was flying......! Got most of the Tamiya parts from Modelbuild in the UK, great outfit with good service! I always got the orders after 3 workdays. Still working on that front A-arm bracket. I´ll maybe get it machined out of aluminium from a friend of mine. Cant find any on eBay right now since I would prefer one from CRP (they say it is stronger than the one from Parma.....?) Rear A-arms are also in bad shape (glued) and Im thinking of getting those machined out also since I work in the "metal business". So now I will continue with my other project, the WildWilly restoration and then I have a Kyosho nitro Truggy waiting for me but thats an other story......! Thanks again, Mag

Nop. The chassies are identical exept for the hatch in the HS2 chassis and the ears for the switch stay on the control box. HS2 also uses different screws and they are all of same length. HS1 also has long holes for the speed servo and HS2 not.The frontmost holes are also reinforced on the HS2 chassis. So you can use HS1 control box on a HS2 chassis and "vise versa" Mag

Well I just got a new WW2 body for my WW1. Havent built it yet but I noticed that Ill need to drill new holes in it to fit the WW1 chassis. Otherwise it looks it will fit. Ill get back when I know more...... Mag.

Yes, I agree, it a nice set. And the Willy does not look too bad from a distance........! By the way I cleaned all parts today for my Hotshot. Noticed that some of the treads for the self-tapping screws in gearboxes are history. Thinking about drilling trough and use a bolt/flangenut were its possible. Or glue in the holes? Suggestions? What kind of grease to use on the gears in the gearboxes? Any idea to put some oil in the bearings before fitting? Mag

Good thing. Just placed an order for the Boomerang propeller shaft/joints and an upper Hotshot 2 chassis. How did you secure the propeller shaft in the joints? In the Boomerang there are plastic piece of tube (e8) that slides over the joint. Those "tubes" dont come with the shaft/joints sice they are on plasticparts e. I probably have to make the hatch on chassis since thats also in some oter "parts bag" Thank You all guys so far, I´v got a lot of really good ideas and help from this thread....! Mag

Nigeninja, are you sure the propeller shaft/joints from the Boomerang will fit the Hotshot? Or do they just look longer on eBay (the joints) Mag

Thanks, I think I got it.....! Mag

Jeff, one more Q about those a-arm stabilizers. Where do you mount them? Is it like a bar that connects between the upper 3x32mm screw pins, or? I mean I´m in the metal business and if I understood what they look like I could probably make them from aluminium. If you could attach a photo or picture. Maybe some model has these as stock? Mag

Hey Civilguy, I have a Wild Willy 1 too that Im restoring also...... Mag

What does the Boomerang drive shaft/joints look like? Mag

Hey I made that B word up just with a fast translation from Swedish[:$]

Thanks Do you mean an other sort of stabilizer for the front? The original one seems to be in good shape, the "dogbones" are maybe a little worn but those I probably get from from a hobbyshop of some other make. Do know what kind of oil I should use in the shocks? Two of them are all empty. You have a chassis for spare? If I dont find an other one closer, would you sell it to me? The broken ears are all missing and there has been some "fixing" done with aluminium and screws.....! Found one on eBay for a Supershot and it should fit, I´ll see what I´ll do. Do you think a ESC would overheat in the servo-box? Any idea how many turns the motor has? I might get the propeller shaft and joints from the UK (Lightwatermodels) they promised to "look around" Mag

Just picked up a Hotshot from a friend of mine, (got it for free) and Im planning on getting it to run again (its taken apart.....). At least the propeller shaft and joints are worn out, noticed that one of the bevel gears in the rear diff. are missing teeth and the chassis has some broken fastening ears. Othervise it is all "ballbeard" and it has the "aftermarket" shocks (one/wheel). Probably got some screws and small parts missing too since it was taken apart like 15 years ago (when the propeller joints wore out) It also has the RX-540SD motor in it. Any ideas and reflections on how I should restore it and what to take in consideration. Mayby an ESC, new batterys and so on?? Weak parts, improvements?? Thanks, Mag

What about the Supershot chassis, is it also identical?? Mag

Ok, no probs... I should have a 15t press-on pinion coming from the states... thanks anyway Mag

Well I read i another forum that the Audis pinion has 18t? By the way the gearbox plate is different in the WW and the Audi. The hole for the idler gear is little more to the side in the Audi giving more space for a larger pinion. So the gearbox plates are not interchangeble in WW and Audi (without changing also the pinion) Mag

Makes sense, because the gearbox´s plastic cover only allows 2 different ratios (2 holes for the idler shaft). The Wild Willy with a 15t pinion and the Audi, Opel and Wheeler with a larger pinion. The idler gear (20t plastic) and the clutch gear are probably the same for all 4 cars and also the whole rear axel. Mag