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Everything posted by nicherotors

  1. I deliberately haven’t made the grill available in fine detailed plastic because even when within manufacturing tolerances it will curl a little bit. Also, not a problem for shelf queens but if used in earnest the fine detail plastic will be prone to breakage for a part that size. The grill only needs a couple or three coats of primer and is easy to work on with sanding sticks and can take a fair amount of abuse. The front grill attachments on the sprue come out well in fine detail plastic including the hex bolt heads. I use clear odourless CA that doesn’t fog to attach the parts, the Deluxe Roket works fine. Glad you have some drivers from Rob; he did my excellent Steven McQueen for the original SWB Wild Willy in my showroom. From experience the following works for me; i) scoring the areas of contact with a sharp knife in a criss cross pattern and ii) using 5 minute Araldite. Doing one arm at a time while the driver is bolted in place makes it easy to hold the arm in place and ensure a good fit (not just at the shoulder but also in close proximity to the steering wheel and gear lever). The jerrycan insert is deliberately a good fit (it almost doesn’t need any glue and certainly can’t be removed once pushed in place) so suggest i) applying a coat of primer and sanding the insert smooth while it’s an individual part and then ii) insert into the Tamiya can and then iii) fill the hairline seam with Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 500. Then prime and paint as you would normally. Hope this helps and have fun!
  2. Was happy to help @stulec52, enjoy.
  3. The foundation design for the interior to Willy’s Clod Buster has just started and hopefully will be completed quicker than the Bullhead above. As with the Bullhead interior I feel motivated to make sure that there are no screwheads visible in the cabin (but that comes with complications and expense - we'll see). One known compromise is that Willy's left boot is going to have to be trimmed, he sits a lot lower than in the Bullhead; the alternative was to put Willy in the middle but then he wouldn't be able to see over the supercharger!
  4. Last year I was asked a number of times why I hadn’t designed a grill with vertical slats. I’d always been quite pleased with [cutting out the horizontal vents] on the stock WW2 item and knew there were other designs available on the Shapeways marketplace. However, recent experience had taught us that the 3d printed materials currently available at Shapeways range from either strong and flat to more brittle but detailed - but there isn’t one material that was detailed and super strong. The Wild Willy grill requires a combination of both and so the following concept was hatched; that of having the main grill designed to be printed in PA12 that can accommodate the addition of separate fine detail plastic parts for the bolts and indicators/ side lights. At the time of writing this concept seems to be unique on Shapeways. So far the grills designed include: i) a replica of the original, ii) a simple version without the details as per the full-size yellow fibreglass (Bobcat) version shown a few posts back, iii) a version that incorporates my headlight buckets (for two 5mm LEDs), and iv) angry eyes (as Jeep owners call them) which I've just painted in TS-46 Light Sand. It’s quite easy when using flat sanding sticks to get a good finish on the grill before adding the details. This two-part approach also makes it easier than normal to get a good finish on the orange signals. Obviously a chrome light bucket would be best but I found white was the next best thing; silver turned the light too grey IMO. Parts are available [here] with no premium.
  5. The design for Willy’s Bullhead interior has now been completed. The parts have been designed so that once put together in a particular sequence there are no screw heads visible when the body is in place. Especially pleased with the effect of the illuminated dashboard which requires a single 5mm LED. The other servo lead will be connected to the steering channel to animate Willy’s head. It should be fairly easy now to lower and stretch the design to fit the Clod Buster.
  6. Conviction remains high but progress has been thwarted - was hoping I was nearly there but found a number of subtle changes were required. Am starting to wish I’d invested in a 3d scanner to model all the little obstacles on the inside of the Bullhead body (plastic posts and screws). The chocolate box card will be used as templates to cut diamond plate (painted silver) for the dash and door cards. The renders reflect a lot of design tweaks and a complete set of parts have just been ordered from Shapeways and are due just before the festive holidays. I’m looking forward to seeing the illuminated dials in the dashboard. Designing the cabin for the Clod Buster next should be a lot easier.
  7. Have picked up where I left off with the Bullhead interior; made lots of little adjustments that I want printed and tested before completing with the rollcage.
  8. I thought the same with this pic from an old guide book in the back of my mind (the one with the Hotshot on the front).
  9. Great job @Yoshisaur. You should be very proud. To prevent the body clips scratching the paint when being fitted or removed you might want to consider cutting a little bit of thin card. Or, as in this case, two bits of Tamiya masking tape stuck to each other. When cut to this type of shape it can be put around the post before the body clip is fitted to avoid scuffing the paint. And don’t forget to slide the template under the pin before removal. Mine has been used for years and might be a bit tatty but as long as it’s clean it will work fine. Driving (or lifting by the roll bar) can leave a witness mark but the pin often hides this when still in place. It’s the scratching I try to avoid when the pins are being fitted or removed. A lesson I’ve learnt the hard way from experience!
  10. Hi @Dan1891, same concept for both - but because the shape of the Willy chest cavities is slightly different we designed a different servo mount for each so that the bearings sit flush and are in line for the serrated cap head to pass through.
  11. I use the HiTec HS-55 and just checked the dimensions: 23 x 12 x 24mm They work really well. To mount the head I use two 3x6x2.5 flanged bearings. The silicon fuel tube acts like a universal joint which is forgiving if alignment is a bit out. Hopefully this pic of the Wheeler driver also helps. Obviously a number of different ways of doing it - all a lot of fun given the driver is so prominent on this model.
  12. Thanks for sharing @Yoshisaur - I’ve found it a lot of fun for folks young and old to see Willys head animated. Looks like I used the same servo as you - only difference was that I decided to mount the servo inside the chest cavity using a 3d printed bracket (@Willy iine has a great memory) - as illustrated here: I liked the concept so much that on subsequent projects, namely the Wheeler and the Bullhead, we designed a cutout to accommodate the space for the servo to avoid and cutting. After fitting bearings and dampers it’s always the next thing I upgrade on a Willy based project.
  13. Have now completed the WR-03 project and loaded pics into a showroom here. Has been a lot of fun and have learnt a lot about the different 3d printed materials. The Shapeways shop has been updated - with no premium added: - the lowered chassis parts can be found here - the optional engine accessories can be found here - and the body accessories (inc. the blank dashboard, blank tailgate, front spotlights etc) can be found here.
  14. The design and development of the faux V8 for Wild Willy is now complete. The 3d printed radiator has a pocket that allows a cut down version of the plastic spare radiator grill from the kit to be dropped in from above (once the fan has been slid onto its axle). Its obviously a compromise that the body posts come out of the rocker covers on this model but on the next project the body posts will be relocated and the majority of this design work will be leveraged and reused. Just having another chassis printed with some final tweaks before moving onto the next adventure.
  15. Appreciate the encouragement @Chewie75, you got it and I look forward to you sharing the progress you make. Here is another picture of some paint caps!
  16. Thanks @Chewie75, yes, as per the instructions on the TS-83 cap I used TS-14 as a base - the same for all the diamond plated parts too. From experience it’s helpful for the base to be dark but more important that it is smooth. So after a coat of TS-14 I apply a light coat of TS-83 straight away and don’t touch/ key the black in between. Your mileage may vary but it works for me and worth every penny of the extra expense. Bizarrely it becomes less reflective with more coats - bit of a knack required - but a single warm light coat that just covers the parts is best. Have fun - TS-83 is a great product.
  17. Thanks and good spot @Willy iine, I used TS-82. In a slightly unorthodox way I paint the fire extinguisher first - this way I get a sharper edge around the two straps. Because the widths of the narrow areas I want to mask differ I find it convenient to cut a thin strip of masking tape and then mask each edge and then the two overlap. There is a small moulding seam that needs to be sanded and this is easily sanded smooth once the masking has been done thus protecting the natural gloss black plastic. TS-82 responds well to the white snow being added for shading - I typically use the same recipe on the windscreen rubber surround and the rear wheel arches.
  18. Have now completed the design of the blank firewall which like the blank dashboard and blank tailgate needs to be skinned with patterned styrene. These three parts have proven best when printed in PA12 with glass beads to maintain their flat structure. This firewall includes the drivers footwell which has been painted the same colour as the body and is held in place by the locking nuts to the front roll bar and the two screws that hold the dashboard in place (just 2mm longer than standard).
  19. Many of the fibreglass Bobcat based Jeeps seem to have homemade dashboards and simple tailgates fashioned from plates of metal - often diamond plate. I wanted to emulate these items and thought it best to start with 3d printed blank dashboard and tailgate items that can be covered with some nice diamond patterned styrene - despite the pattern being described as 1/48th scale from Plastruct I’m quite happy with it on a 1/10th model. The dashboard comes with a little instrument binnacle for the sticker and a handle bar. Pictures of the full-size can be found here: http://www.ewillys.com/tag/bobcat/page/3/
  20. You are far too sensible @Willy iine. I am a gluten for punishment and mask the indicators and use TS spray paint.
  21. I have experimented with clear orange over silver but for such small items you can’t go wrong with any of the orange TS colours - here they are in sunlight for comparison.
  22. Thanks for the mention @Willy iine. @simalarion, in terms of getting the Wild Willy 2 body onto a GF-01 chassis there are choices, each with their considerations. One easy route is to stick with only Tamiya items, a ‘how to’ can be found here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=137457&id=18923 A midway point is what I’ve called the GF-02 whereby a handful of 3d printed parts allow for the body to be repositioned so that it is more faithfully positioned over the wheels albeit sitting a few mm higher than the original; the parts can be found on Shapeways here: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/nicherotors?section=GF-02+M38+Chassis+Parts&sort= The chassis @Willy iine mentions is a ground up redesign of the GF-01 chassis that uses the same gears and suspension arms but does pump up the price of the model 2 to 3 times but can accommodate the original body without having to make cuts to the footwell. The background to the development can be found here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/99033-wild-willy’s-3d-printing-adventure-by-nicherotors/ Sorry if a bit off original topic. Naturally, a lot depends upon the surface you will be running on, handling vs cosmetics and budget but they are all fun in their own way. My current focus is modifying the WR-02 chassis to get a lower rear wheel drive chassis which has its own charm.
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