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nicherotors

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Posts posted by nicherotors


  1. I started with the ride height of the rerelease and then lowered it by a couple of mm. That should be fine for me but there will be room to lower a bit more albeit with reduced suspension travel. Still playing around with the location of the camber links and am still trying to reduce the track of the rear axle - probably with a custom hexagonal space.

    I’m probably only going to build one Wheeler for myself and favour the look of a fast street car with some modern touches. I’m looking at what these guys have done with the Renault Turbo, another icon from the same period, for inspiration https://legendeautomobiles.fr/

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  2. Attention has shifted to Willy’s Wheeler now that all the parts I wanted for the M38 have been designed (just need some time for painting and building). 

    Here are some pictures of our first 4wd chassis for the Wheeler.

    The purpose of this test mule was to check the general layout and find the best place for the electronics. Trying to keep the clutter away from what will be the interior so have designed a small tunnel in the chassis to allow wires to connect the electronics which will be located on both sides of the chassis. 

    It runs well enough but there is still much work to do to get the correct ride height and map out the rest of the interior.

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    • Like 5

  3. There are a number of successful headlight conversions for Wild Willy on here that provided much inspiration.

    I wanted to leverage an existing Tamiya lens given they are gin-clear and often have authentic looking details on the inside that are hard to replicate with current 3d printing technology.

    After looking at a few that are readily available including the Bullhead/ Celica Gr.B/ Clod and Sand Scorcher sprues I settled on the same conclusion that @kaindi  and @Toykid made over 17 years ago (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=42618&id=50); that of using the Toyota Hilux lens - which thankfully are readily available as spares today.

    While it’s a snug fit because there isn’t much height to play with we have been able to replicate the outside ring (with three screw heads) using the smoothest fine detailed plastic and accommodated the locating tabs found on the Hilux lens to lock them into position.

    We replicated the different diameters of the two locating pins so that the headlight ring can only be inserted into the grill one way with the single screw head at the top (ala poka yoke).

    The light bucket has been designed to be permanently glued into position on the back of the grill and accommodates 5mm LEDs which are readily available wired to plug straight into a spare slot on the receiver.  The LEDs are deliberately facing down to illuminate the ground immediately in front of the vehicle.  The luminescence can be subtly adjusted by changing the position of the LED in its socket.

    Unlike most Tamiya light buckets this is a conical design to reflect the shape of the bulbs used on the full-size.  I like using the radiator part (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=135460&id=18923) included in the WW2 kit and despite it being tight these custom light buckets still fit. 

    Cutting the two holes in the grill turned out to be straightforward enough - and cut in three easy steps, i) rough cut to remove most of the material, ii) sand close to the line and then iii) as a happy accident my bag of general sanding items included a 16mm diameter sanding drum which just needed to be pushed through (from the back to avoid any mistakes) to complete the job.

    I’ve found the translucent nature of natural versatile plastic used in the light bucket allows some light to escape which does a good job of illuminating the inside of the body and clearly doesn’t look right - an easy step to stop this has been to glue kitchen foil to the outside of the bucket - that way the only light to be emitted is through the lens.

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    • Like 2

  4. Context and connotation!

    Original in the Vintage forum = most likely getting the best out of ~40 year old parts.

    Original in the Design forum = most likely getting the best out of using modern software to design parts and the application of additive manufacturing to make them.

     

    As stated before, we remain focused on replicating the i) wheelbase ii) track and iii) height and location of the body (without cutting it up) of the 1982 original by using a combination of a unique chassis and unique wheels with the correct offset.  I'd be in the Vintage forum if I was striving for vintage accuracy.

     

    Regarding the faux disc brakes, not sure I used the word ‘bad’ - but hear the point you are trying to make.  I suspect you’ll be pleased to know that I had previous attempts that didn’t make the final cut.  However, in contrast I view the experience as invaluable.

    For example, take the pocket size for a 11mm OD bearing in the hubs; we have learnt the world of difference between 10.90, 11.00 or 11.20 (and we've tried many others in-between) - all of which could be workable depending upon the materials used and the application.  The same lessons have been learnt for self tapping screws and the fitment of metal axles etc. It’s because Shapeways and SLS printing more generally is so consistent that these things matter.

     

    I can’t recall if any @simensays designs accommodated bearings, axles or gears but given your huge head start I’m sure this is all very familiar to you. We only started using Shapeways/ SLS printing in earnest six months ago.

    Our experience is now being leveraged on the development of a chassis for the Wheeler where, amongst other things, we have undercuts that couldn’t be injection moulded.

     

    And that’s the message to anyone who is still persevering with this thread - have a go and be inspired by the experience and the endless possibilities - rather than just say ‘why bother’ (see 2nd post). There is only so much that can be garnered from an armchair.

    • Like 2

  5. On 12/21/2021 at 10:20 PM, simensays said:

    another not so well contemplated, original idea...

    They look interesting and may be fine for some. 

    Lamborghini could have pulled something off the Brembo shelf when they developed the Urus. 

    But they decided to bring the development in-house to meet their spec.

    As stated before, this was our original inspiration - we shrank the dimensions of the disc to 1/10th scale (both diameter and thickness which are different between the front and rear).

    We could have bought something off the shelf too but decided to design something to meet our spec - I’ve not seen anything similar on a GF-01 based chassis before but happy to be corrected given your clear head start on the rest of us.

     

    On 12/22/2021 at 7:21 PM, Willy iine said:

    @nicherotors Your calipers don't spin with the wheels, right?   

    A close look at the picture suggests the calipers are screwed to the disc and would rotate with the wheel.  Instead, I wanted my calipers attached to custom hubs while the discs rotate with the wheels. I also wanted the hex to have as much surface area in contact with the Tamiya wheel and the one in the picture looks short. 

     

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    • Like 1

  6. The idea of disc brakes seemed like a good idea at the beginning of the month. 

    They seemed like a good idea when designed and rendered on computer. 

    They seemed like a good idea with bright red calipers.

    They seemed like a good idea right up until the rims were fitted when it became difficult to tell if they were there or not!

    Anyway, a fun little exercise and I wanted to build a chassis with these rims which I like - may get a black set given they seem fashionable on full size 4x4 at the moment.

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  7. Interesting question @GeeWings; due to the common use of the WR-02/ GF-01 chassis rails I’m sure it would physically work. However, we have moved those chassis rails to replicate the relationship between the Wild Willy body and the front and rear axles as per the vintage original.  From the Jimny/ GF-01 conversions I’ve seen online that combination looks a safe bet where the wheels and wheel arches look pretty well aligned but have never seen one in the flesh.


  8. I’m glad you are happy @Willy iine, looks a great combination. As has been said before - you have a great man-cave so it’s only naturel for you to have a fully stocked wine cellar :D.  No friction here - I love a marketplace with choice.

     

    One reason for designing our own wheels was to reduce the track at the front and the other, which is admittedly complicated by having to use magnets to retain the hub caps, was to replicate the original full-size design and give the impression that the offset was the same front and back when clearly it isn’t on the model.

     

    We designed a custom front kick plate that would also retain the front U hinge pin but I felt it looked too cheesy when it arrived, I went for black in keeping with the black anodised parts I use on my originals. @Jamesssb has left it in the above render - happy to add it to the market place if helpful but suspect black is the only reasonable colour. I had one made in aluminium and while it certainly felt strong enough the texture was quite rough and would require quite a bit of time to get it to the finish of the originals.  I clearly didn’t like it much because I don’t have a specific picture - but can be seen with a close up of a prototype rim. 

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    • Like 1

  9. Not an original idea - the inspiration was provided by Lamborghini. A few weeks back @Jamesssband I went to see a neighbours new Urus. The front and rear disk brakes are huge and have been faithfully reduced to 1/10 scale albeit with some artistic licence on the pattern of cross drilled holes.  Likewise, the design of the faux calipers has been adjusted to accommodate practical use but placed in the same orientation relative to the axles. 
     

    The new axle hubs, modified 10mm hex adapters and faux calipers are designed to sit behind the standard GF-01 rims which I quite like.  I came across them on my first Wild Willy conversion on a GF-01 chassis (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=137457&id=18923) and the diameter of the tyres is pretty close to the originals. 

    This is a bit of an experiment but in keeping with Willys fuel cell and racing inspired stickers.

    They look good on the computer - we’ll see if they hold up to some punishment in reality.  

     

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  10. On 12/5/2021 at 12:38 AM, Willy iine said:

    @nicherotors Would you be able to make the side mirrors be horizontal?  I installed them today and it is pointing quite a bit upward.

    Thanks!  :D

    Nice - I quite like that look but will still most likely stick with the more aerodynamic DTM look.

    A couple of things for consideration.

    I see you have used a screw to hold the two items together - just as we had designed.  How about removing the screw to allow the mirror to be repositioned so that the bottom edge is just as you wish and then either gluing the two items using a spot of epoxy that won't fog the window but will allow some working time to get it just as you wish and/or tell me how big the top gap between the base and the mirror is * and then we can redesign the base for you (to save you painting the mirror again).  I see in another thread you've used something metallic to emulate the reflective glass which looks good - what did you use?

    If you dm me your address I'll get three new sets of bases printed up for you to be bundled in with my next batch of fine detail plastic (seem to have weekly orders at the moment!)

    Hopefully you like the size of the mirrors - any bigger and the mirrors might seem out of proportion.

    * tell me how many sheets of Post-It notes you can fit in the top gap and/ or send the me exact measurement.

    • Like 1

  11. 21 hours ago, Willy iine said:

    That is a good plan, I want to have the different car.. 

    But on the City Turbo, which wheels and tires would you run?   I'd prefer a non-staggered setup if FWD in the same wheel design as factory.   

    We are using the original/ rerelease wheels and tyres.  By non-staggered I'm assuming you don't want the wide rear track; I was planning to replicate the original but it will be easy enough to accommodate both.

    I've got a prototype running, again heavily based on the GF-01, and having owned four Civics many moons ago the front wheel drive nature of the handling is a key part of the Honda experience.  Childish - but fun.  Will update soon.

    • Like 1

  12. I came here thinking that I was a kindred spirit on a friendly forum with a common love for the same models as you - hence the replication of the thread name.

    I apologize for any offence caused and have now changed it.

    However, I think we have different definitions of 'original'.  Aside from the jerrycan you have chosen to mention I can't find anyone else offering anything similar to the other parts - clearly generic wing mirrors are available off the shelf but it was a joy to help @Willy iine out.  As requested, despite it not being my cup of tea, we are already working on the body mounts to allow a vintage body to sit on the GF01-SWB chassis - given the size of the world I'm sure someone has turned a vintage WW into a 4x4 - but not many.

    But speaking of 'poor variants' seems a bit harsh - some feedback for you: despite your 20 year head start on me the dimensions of the recessed X on your jerrycan insert are not the same as on the Tamiya item.  I wasn't going to mention it and quietly released an alternative that took less than half an hour to design which comes with other unique features too - thus making it original:

    • locks the jerrycan in position vertically when viewed from the rear,
    • locks in the vertical position when viewed from the side ensuring that it sits parallel to the tailgate,
    • cannot be pressed into too far

    Naturally, it uses more material and will be more expensive - that's what makes a market. 

    Believe me - it is definitely not a copy of your item.  So now there are three variants for people to choose from on Shapeways.  Everyone's a winner!  Well, except the person who thought they had sole proprietorship over Wild Willy parts.

    I'm here to have fun, will make plenty of mistakes along the way and will strive to get better.  And like you, try to make the community stronger. 

    By the way, I remain receptive to constructive feedback on the engineering.

     

    • Like 2

  13. On 11/15/2021 at 1:12 PM, Tizer said:

    What are the aero discs on the wheels? Did you design and print those too?

    Yes - and printed very nicely by Shapeways - for example the tyre pressure cap has been printed very crisply.  Some close up pictures were posted on October 10 if interested. 

    I’m not yet happy with the design - there is still a lot of air inside - will fix once the design for Willy’s M38 wheels has been modified to make assembly easier. 

    Am I the only one interested in having a custom front wheel drive chassis for the Honda?

    • Like 1

  14. On 10/25/2021 at 4:27 PM, Willy iine said:

    @nicherotors Thanks for asking.  Honestly  I would prefer without, but I can always make a black cover for that space so if you can’t remove the surrounding lip, no issue either way!  

     

    The pocket was removed.  The four files for the SWB chassis have been loaded up onto Shapeways and can be found here:

    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/nicherotors

    The final pattern for the Wheeler wing mirrors will be available after a final test fit in the next couple of days. 

    • Like 1

  15. On 10/25/2021 at 3:58 AM, Willy iine said:

    I think I'm just going to run CVA Mini's in the lengths you posted for the time being.  I can't find any CC01 dampers in the USA and do not want to order from overseas at the moment.

    Brilliant - I’m sure they’ll be fine.

    Quick question @Willy iine - for my own personal use I’ve got a pocket on the front of the chassis for a little brass plaque with a unique number on - do you want the same or shall we remove before uploading to Shapeways?

    The last time I got a bunch of custom photo etched parts made in brass (including the name plate for Yasuo Ōtsuka) I included a few of these little brass plaques individually numbered.  I’m happy, at no cost, to put in the post for you or anyone else for that matter.  Won’t be making any money out of Shapeways - this is purely a goodwill gesture, from enthusiasts to enthusiasts, for those that follow in our footsteps.  Offer only valid until I run out of brass plaques! :D
     

    But let us know if you don’t like the idea and it will be easy enough to delete the pocket. 

     

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    • Like 1

  16. On 10/21/2021 at 10:48 PM, Willy iine said:

    Ready when you are, @nicherotors!!

     

    Right there with you @Willy iine; at the beginning of this thread in July I had two of the Toyota and one of the Monster Beetle Trail - they are all migrating across to my new chassis. 

    The front bumper mount is in production and if that works out when it arrives next week I'll get the files up on Shapeways.  Most likely that I'll order my third set at the same time as you.  I'll be interested in your delivery time given you are in the US - am hoping the turnaround is on par with what we get here in Europe.  @Jamesssb and I were working it out the other night, excluding the two Shapeways prints we have done many full FDM prints at home so this has certainly been an interesting journey - but a real labor of love.  When we have finished with all the other items currently being prototyped we will get the old FDM prints recycled.

     

    • Like 2

  17. If you don’t mind I’m going to suggest another week/ ten days. 
     

    We’ve just made a cosmetic but slightly functional change to the mount for the front bumper.  I realised that because the edge to the front bumper springs is sharp that it can scar the plastic should it rotate - so we have inserted a little cheese slice of a shape so that the springs are locked in place and are not allowed to rotate when under a bit of compression. 
     

    While the wing mirrors look close in the pictures we want to get the angles of the mount around the window ledge right for you so it’s a snug fit.

    Super easy for us to make the items a bit bigger if you wish - more akin to the comical size of your existing ones - just let us know, otherwise we’ll run with what we have. 

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    • Like 1

  18. On 10/16/2021 at 3:29 PM, Willy iine said:

    BTW which oil damper set are you using on the SWB?   Is that the hop up one for the CC01?  

    Good spot, on top of a GF-01 chassis and the WW2 body parts here is the short list of items I've used; clearly other items that are of the same size should work fine but these are what we have designed the chassis around:

    1 x Hitec HS-77BB: dimensions (metric) 44.0 x 23.0 x 25.0

    1 x Tamiya 54541 CC-01 Aluminium Oil Damper: eye-to-eye the front are 61mm, rear 66mm (to replicate the ride height of the 1982 original then plastic shims included on the sprue are required to restrict travel *)

    Additional hop-ups that aren't mandatory include:

    2 x Tamiya Titanium Turnbuckle Shaft 3x35: three are used but they come in packs of two (just as well I'm building three!)

    1 x Tamiya 53587 5mm Shim Set: I've not met a GF-01 that didn't need a few shims to run a bit smoother

    Electronics are a personal choice but I'm happy with the standard Tamiya ESC and the switch fits perfectly; chassis 001 runs fine with the basic silver can, 002 has the Tamiya Motor 35T Brushed 540 - CR-Tuned for a bit of bling, currently undecided on 003. 

    * If you order a set of chassis parts I'll do a step by step guide on assembly but all fairly straight forward for anyone who has built several GF-01's before. :lol:

     

    • Like 1
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