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Kokuzu

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About Kokuzu

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    Member
  • Birthday 07/21/1967

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  • Location
    Frankfurt, Germany
  • Interests
    Kits + RC, Alpin-Ski, Karate, MTB

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  1. Guude JimBear, ja, ist ein M-chassis mit ca 210mm Radstand....
  2. I always admired the curves of the Prototypo Ferrari Pininfarina P5. The biggest version of this car comes as a cable controlled model in 1/12 scale. You can find them cheap in the bay.... So I have three or so. As I have done a 1/12 hill climb Porsche in the same size, I thought it would be nice to have a second model of the same dimensions. So I tried to fit a running 1/12 RC chassis under the body. I found a used TT01 M-chassis conversion kit and have basically modified every corner of the chassis to reduce built height, as the body of the P5 sits very low. I could also keep the interior so you do not see the RC components. Too many mods to list. I am not done, I do not like the shape of the silver rims on the front axle. Those will have to go for sure....Need to find a nice rim which is not that easy. Pictures feature the two complete cars. The original body and chassis in the back, the second body with modified running chassis in the front (with white and silver rims). You can see how short the dampers are? I modified every bid of the dampers with shortening the damper body, the damper rod and the damper end cap. I also moved the mounting points at the differential to have some useful suspension, but again to ensure a very flat chassis. In the front, I had to cut the upper joints holding the diff gear halves together. This job is now being done by a steel wire and some glue. Hope you like it.
  3. I allways have been facinated by the small vintage reace boats, which show nothing more than a wooden panel, a blown Hemi and a gas pedal. YOu can find nice videos in the Y-channel by a guy named vdrivevideos. So by chance, I came across a nice wooden boat and tried my best to modifiy it to shape resembling the vintage looks. I use a new jet stream system with a strong, water cooled brushless combo. The flaps at the end are for race boat supplies. The paint is by me. Trailer is self made from leftover parts.
  4. This one I have for some years now, but always one detail disturbed my on the kit. The single tires on the rear end. In my world, dump trucks have to have twin tires on the rear end for a beafier look and for realism. So I converted it to twin tires using alloy rims. Also, I had to midify the leave spring suspension in its mounting points to move the tires closer to the frame. But I think it worked well. And whilst I was on it, I tossed a ESSone motor sound unit into it, a light kit, and a screw actuator for the load bed. Much better than the original solution coming with the kit.
  5. Good morning ladies and chaps, after several years in offline, I am connected again and I will load the jobs I have done on some latest kits into this Forum. Let get started with my JDM Willys Wheeler. I did not do a perfect paint job, so don't look too closely. Actually some paint blurr kind of resembles rust bladders of the meanwhile aged car. This is what i did: Chassis: 4WD Tub chassis (non Tamiya) shortened to fit Custom offset 2,2 inch alloy rims (40mm rear, 26mm front) 12mm offset spacers to achieve "stance" look Kyosho Super Ten Slicks Alloy hopup dampers Electrics: Flysky Noble NB4 + Radio system Brushless motor (Castle creations) Brushless ESC (Hobbywing) Quick brushless servo 5300mAh 2S shorty lipo pack ESSone sound module with engine sound and turbo blowoff whistle Light kit including reverse and license plate light lights Power connection chassis - body with magnetic quick connector Interior: Tamiya Rally interior with original Willis head Driver head rotating in synch with front tires Shotgun rider head from an action figure Self made roll bar (quick one, too low, will be replaced) Body: Body fender lips widened to host tires Custom rear diffusor to hide battery Rear spoiler from Tamiya RX7 bodykit Air brushed with Createx Aluminium fine base, Createx Candy O² Poison Green, 2k Automotive clear Stickers from another kit Hidden body mounts Hope you like it!
  6. I sent message to buy the body from you. Hope I am not too late.

    1. Kokuzu

      Kokuzu

      Just sent you a message Pmobs.

  7. Selling a nicely painted bodyset. Undamaged and with front lights. 269 EUR shipping to Europe and Paypal fees included. (Insured and tracked) Shipping worldwide at cost.
  8. The only tool which helps here is a press and a bin!
  9. Yes, blasting is common to clean surfaces, but it does not help you if you want to get a shiny finish. The surface will be cratered with millions of tiny micro craters from the impact of the glass pearls or whatever stuff you blow at it. Sure, the surface will be clean afterwards, but not shine. This is most often used for operations where you have to remove a much larger amount of material, such in large area and deep and hard corosions, where a grinding paper does not do the trick anymore.
  10. Flerbitzky, I would try to cover the paint with clear coat instead of working the paint itself. The clear coat is less liquid, it dries in a thicker layer and distributes more evenly over the paint resulting in a more shiny surface. The clear coat can be wet-polished with 6000 grid to a nice shine without risking to sand down to the ABS (as when sanding the paint itself...) But I wonder why the rattle can does not create a flat surface? Was it glossy or flat color? Flat always remains rougher than glossy paint. Either your sanding of the primer left a rougher surface, or you sprayed from a too far distance and the paint already started drying before it hit the bodyshell - (the surface got only covered by layers of single microscopic drops, which were not wet enough anymore to connect to each other in order to create an even surface....) Just my 5 cts...
  11. autosol and loads oft phased out cotton knickers.
  12. Hi there, I am in urgent need of the dimensions of the 4 plastic parts which are being fitted to the body in ordert o hold the grooved brass spacers to connect the body to the chassis: I have indicated and numbered all dimensions I need to know in a sketch, so I reproduce the parts in scale dimension. Please help me out I need to have the parts made and I am willing to pay for your efforts. Alternatively, I could of course use originals if you would be willing to part.
  13. James, thank you for lifting the fenderlines! You're pretty **** close to reality here.... Nice job on the driver....
  14. I have screened the web and found some interesting info on the historical roots of RC. I will post one article each Monday and we will see if this develops into something interesting.... This one is from the HOA website: www.heartofamericaseries.com/about.html Early Years of H.O.A. By: Arlynn Simon As I recall, and this is written by an old fart that some people say is senile so this may not be completely accurate, the H.O.A. was started in the fall of 1971 at the old King Radio plant in Olathe, KS. I recall Bill and Ken Campbell of Delta, Elmer and Dave Schilli, Ted Schaefer, Bill and Tony Stuckwich, George Schultz, Larry Flatt, Mac Klotz, myself Arlynn Simon, Rex Widmer and about three others (whose names escape me at this time) were entered. I cannot tell you who won overall but Max Klotz and I had a haphazard race in beginner's class, which I won, not bad for the first time running an RC car. The cars were a mix of Delta, Associated, MRP, Dynamic and 1 RaCar hybrid. The engine of choice was a Veco 19. Radios were wheel or stick by Kraft, Futaba, Delta, Champion and a couple of others. Fuel was airplane fuel with about10% nitro. Tires were the equivalent of about 45 Shore on the rear and rocks on the front. Rear tires were 2 ½" wide while fronts were 1" wide. Suspension was almost non-existent. We had solid rear axle, no diffs. The chassis on most cars were 1/8" aluminum, steel, or spring steel. Brakes were almost working. Bodies were made of Butyrate or fiberglass. Weight, who cared? Quick-change wheels took 3 minutes if you were fast. Carburetors, they were junk even if you had a good one. Races were about 20 minutes or until the last man was standing, whichever came first. More times than not it was the last man standing. Keeping a car together or an engine running for 20 minutes was a major achievement, not to be looked upon lightly, almost lifting the person accomplishing the feat to a mystical or God like stature. To listen to the B.S. at the end of the day we were all the equivalent of A.J. Foyt, Richard Petty or Fangio. Remember this was '71 or '72, Gordon, Hornish, or Schumaker were still having their diapers changed if they were even around then. The H.O.A. consisted of 1 race its first year since it started in Sept. or Oct. Only the Midwest series is older. The following year St. Louis and Des Moines were added to the schedule. Attendance slowly rose from 15 to 20 in the early years to 60 to 70 in the early 80's. Lincoln was added and then Minneapolis. Des Moines was dropped, as was Lincoln; Omaha was added and Sioux Falls was later added. Lap counting was done by hand on paper to start with, and then we modernized and got the push button counters. We only had 6 frequencies in the 27 MHz bands that were legal so our features only had 6 cars at a time. Runaways were rather commonplace. Eventually we really became modern and got a computer to help run races. Still we had to punch the cars in by hand but we were in the computer age. It still took 3 people to run the race; one to announce, one to call out the car numbers and one to punch them into the computer. By now we were allowed to run 72 MHz frequencies so we could run up to 10 cars in the feature. We were still limited to 10 cars in the feature because the computer would not allow any more. Brands of cars kept coming and going, Associated, Delta, MRP, Dynamic, Star Car, RaCar, Champion, Amps, Heath Kit, MRC, Marker, PB, Cook, BMT, Serpent and even some others that I can't remember the names of. Dynamic had the first suspension car that I can remember: Heavy, Heavy, Heavy. One rear wheel and tire assembly weighed as much as a complete set of four now. One car had a flat pan chassis and four wheel drive with a chain link system running the front wheels. Amps cars were fully independent suspension with gear diffs and heavy. Engines were Veco 19, McCoy Veco19, Enya, K&B, O.S., OPS and some others. In the beginning Veco 19's were the most reliable and then you moved to a McCoy 19 with a ringed piston that you changed the ring in when you started to lose compression; and then the K&B 21 came out and almost made the McCoy Veco obsolete. We ran a restrictor class at that time, with the K&B's running small carbs. and 10% nitro but with the 19's you could run a larger carb. and 20% or 30% nitro, which was the way to go as they were much stronger than the restricted 21's. Later we ran a super stock class with no nitro fuel. You could mix your own fuel at home with methanol and Klotz 2 cycle oil for about $4 a gallon. Nearly all of the early engines were airplane engines that we clamped heat sinks on for cooling, and then they started milling the heads so that you could mount a larger more efficient cooling fin to the head. For the first few years we ran straight pipes and megaphones for exhausts on the engines. Your ears would ring for a couple of days after a big race. Eventually, mufflers were required. Some mufflers worked, some did not. Some you could buy, some you made from metal gas tanks on your own. Sometimes you fabricated your own fuel tanks. Pressurized tanks were unheard of in the early days. Two and three speed transmissions, you've got to be kidding? You never put traction on tires or the track either. By the end of the weekend you had fairly decent traction from the oil off the exhausts. You stood on the ground to race until you got a milk carton. We then moved to a drivers stand about 5 feet tall. Through all of this we still had great races and great times and made some good friends (and enemies) but we all had a blast. We had about six women drivers race with us through the years. Sheila Barnett, Georgia Campbell, Peggy Nale, and Rita Robertson are some that come to mind. They did their share of winning also. Probably the biggest name to come out of the H.O.A. besides me is Art Carbonell. He won more than his share of the races. I actually beat him one time in an exhibition Australian Pursuit race. That's the way I remember the early days of H.O.A. HOA Information The Heart of America Series is an on-road racing series for radio control cars. We hold four to six races per year between the months of May and September in Lincoln, NE. The series is a fun, family atmosphere for kids of all ages. The series is open to anyone who wishes to race. The typical classes are 1/8 scale nitro sports car, 1/8 scale nitro GT, 1/10 scale nitro sedan, and 1/10 scale electric sedan. As long as there at least three cars of the same class, the races can be setup so they can race against each other. Source: http://www.heartofam....com/about.html
  15. I have found some other piece of information which confirms yours above - regarding the first ESC - is seems it was developed by people working for Delta in the early 80ies: (I wrote this around 1998 or so.... seems so far back...) Art Carbonell started RC racing back in 1971 or so, driving a Thorp car. (This was a racecar built and sold by the same people who make hex-drivers. Back then, they manufactured and sold a gas car kit.) Art won the gas Nationals in 1976 driving a 1/8 scale Delta car. The electric 1/12 scale Nationals were to be held at the same location a week later, and Gene Husting suggested that Art try out one of Associated's 1/12 scale electric cars. Art did stay on, and assembled the kit - it was a standard production car. After spending the week learning the differences between gas and electric cars, Art raced the car and won the electric nationals as well! A few years later Art was working on the Delta electric car design. The Delta team consisted of Art, Bill Campbell, and Kevin Orton. When Art won the 1/12 Scale Electric World's, he used ran a resistor speed control, as was normal practice at the time. Kevin came up with another ingenious idea - a button on the radio transmitter that made the arm on the speed control go a little bit too far, and break electrical contact. Releasing the button allowed the arm to move back just a bit, and give the car instant high-speed off the starting line. Everyone else meanwhile gave their cars full throttle, and the arm on their speed controls had to travel all the way from the "off" position up to the "wide-open" position, which took longer. Kevin, Bill, and Art created the first Electronic Speed Control around '81 or '82. They were also one of the first teams to discover how to match batteries for better performance. Back then, the bigger teams would come to a race with a crate-full of batteries, use a pack once, then use another new pack for the next race. At the World's the Delta team had three packs each to use for the entire event. Kevin set up the batteries, and both Kevin and Art made it into the Finals. Delta had the edge in equipment, and Kevin and Art were both excellent drivers. Art won the World's that year. The Delta team was also one of the first to discover "traction compound" for tires. They cleaned the tires with something like "GoJo" hand cleaner, then coated the tires with sun tan lotion. Coppertone worked great! They wiped it off five to ten minutes before the race. This prevented the tires from drying out, and gave a little more traction. Source: http://www.sgrid.com...c speed control Article by: By Mike Myers
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