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ideal2k

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About ideal2k

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  • Birthday 04/01/1980

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  • Location
    Oslo, Norway and Fuengirola, Spain

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  1. Well that's it. I'm cancelling my tamiyaclub subscription and will no longer partake on these discussions. With ignorants like these for moderators, I have no business here.
  2. If you haven't tried this particular product, why comment? I'd report you to the moderator, but it seems that's you. How unfortunate.
  3. i've been soldering for 20 years. I know what I'm doing, thank you.
  4. Well today I got a real dud. Product: Weller 40 watt soldering iron Price: roughly €30 euros Description: soldering iron Verdict: Complete dud. Usually I've had Antex and other brands, but here in Spain I could only find this thing. Weller are a reputed company so I didn't think I could go much wrong. I've always thought to myself "how can people make such a mess of soldering, it's so easy", well here is the reason: they probably bought a Weller soldering iron. I'm not exactly sure what's wrong with it. Either it's not getting warm enough, or the tip is completely wrong for heat transfer. It's one of the two. I spent about an hour soldering five wires onto the speed control, I'm not kidding, and the solder points look like feces. So my verdict is, Weller is a complete waste of money. If you want to solder, buy an Antex (Those are the triangular yellow ones).
  5. £35 vat on £68 is more than 50%. Before you pay the bill, send them a letter of complaint, and include the bill from paypal which proves how much you paid. Then conclude the letter with "according to my calculations I should only pay X pounds. I await your response within 10 days, and I dispute your demand for payment until such date." Hope this helps. 68 x 0.20 should be about £17. So £35 is twice what you should be paying. !!!I would not pay the bill!!!! I stress this. Don't pay it straight away, send the letter of complaint and dispute it, then await their response. Getting money back will be near to impossible after you have paid.
  6. Hi guys, it's time for another update I had a bit of an accident while assembling the universal shafts, and stabbed myself with the hex driver, basicly did my finger in pretty good, so I had to wait until now to finish the car I haven't installed any electronics yet. I went with the Mazda Speed 6 body from Protoform, and mounted some Sweep 24's, which they say are for temperatures below 20c. PaintedTamiya Fluorescent green backed with white, should be easy to spot when driving Tomorrow I should get the electronics mounted, and perhaps give it a bit of a spin at the local track. From building the S411, I have to say it is brilliant to build it. But I do not like the shocks. The shocks come half-assembled, without oil in them. The lower cap (that has the shaft through it) has a horrible cap-to-body seal design, basicly the lower cap has a large seal that seals against the body. It is designed in such a way that it basicly is only possible to assemble a shock once, if you unscrew the cap, and try to screw it back in, it destroys the seal. I'll have to order some new ones, the ones I have now are barely hanging in there, might be good enough for a few test runs though. I might end up switching to the Tamiya shocks. I've bought a soldering iron (I don't have all my tools here in Spain), so tomorrow it's time to fit the electronics
  7. Well... I remember a speed run from the 90s was a story in car action, where I think it was Jay Halsey who set some kinda record. He had something like 30 cells, so I guess that would put it at around 40-50 volts. It was ran with a normal modified motor, 540 size, brushed motor, and I think they peaked out at something like 110 miles per hour. It was a basic 10 scale pan car, just loaded up with battery cells everywhere. I figure you can absolutely achieve the same end result on the Tamiya pan car chassis. Two packs of 6S lipo, in series, should give you plenty of voltage.
  8. Well, Pactra have some paints.. but they are solvent based, it's not as nice as the tamiya ones where you can clean the brush in water.
  9. Lunch box steering knuckles will fit, and have a longer axle.
  10. Really? I thought all the TT01D and TT01E's came with the updated newer shafts. Maybe it's a bit hit and miss then, mix and match?
  11. If you have the TT01D or TT01E you already have those. But if you have the plastic ones, then yeah, you need the other outdrives and dogbones. His signature says he has the TT01E. So no problem.
  12. Actually I'd prefer it on the new 4wd m-chassis, especially if it includes a 540 style motor like the one in the Avante 2011 kits, it'll be a lot nicer than that fragile old chassis.
  13. Imax B6 is the way to go if you want it cheap!
  14. I've never heard of that. Only option would be to use the TG10 wide wheel axles + wide wheel hexes, and then combine that with some +10/12mm offset wheels in the rear (I don't know what is the max offset available on the market), and maybe +6mm in front.
  15. If they put them on a TT01 chassis, I just plain give up. We'll see.
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