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matisse

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Everything posted by matisse

  1. Wait.... it’s the same body! How did I not notice that!!!!!
  2. yeah, just wondered if there was one more local, UK based that is
  3. long shot, but anyone have an unpainted Dirt Thrasher or Blazing Star body?
  4. Srsyly though, need to shim out hubs etc to remove slop, and took the opportunity to use longer bolts at key places where the chassis attaches to the gearboxes etc... In both cases a 3 x 16 was used for a little extra strength.
  5. if you wanna build a chassis really fast you need a montage, MONTAGE!! * cue 80's music* Standy up bits! Bearings! Greased tie rods for easy addition of ball ends! TOP DECK!! DONE!
  6. Been a while since I painted last, so tested the paint job out on the floor plan. Remembered after the first coat about heating the can, and after that it was like riding a bike, you never forget how. 4 coats of Translucent Red and 3 coats of Gunmetal. Looks lovely.
  7. Dampers. Thought about getting the TRF Aeration dampers, but two things stopped me. the price and the colour. The price is fine ,but limited budget and I wanted a few other hop-ups too. The colour, well i'm just not a TRF/Tamiya Blue person (although RCjaz sent blue hexses....), plus it would look awful against the paintjob. So got some of the Gmade. Not as high quality, but not bad either. Pistons are beveled on both sides and nicely made, plastic is a little, well plasticy but it will do. Lengths are pretty much spot on which is nice. Chunky piston rods though, 3.5mm, used a dab of slime to help get the ends on. Set up wise i dredged through old files to find the last time i ran 4wd to mimic that. Went with AE 30wt oil F+R, but set up stiffer at the front with 2 hole Piston and a 3 hole at the rear. Rebound wise, i'll set 50% for the front, and a little less for the rear. used the spring cups to help get as close as is possible across the pairs. other than that a healthy dose of AE green slime as the o-rings look to be okay, but not any better than that. They sit pretty nicely. the come with a mount so just needed a spacer, used a little spare plastic part for the front, and the rear needs less, just a press nut.
  8. Got the lightweight kingpins, mostly as they are just better made, and its a hex rather than a screw head. Another set of Ti tie rods completes the front end. I'll have to shim those C Hubs in the future though, so much slop.
  9. Front gear box, pretty simple tbh, just with the addition of the torque splittern and then some long screws with Nylocs for security.
  10. Out of sync on the build, but did the wing today, cut out the numbers as there will be no green on this car.
  11. Picked up the paint today. Translucent red and Gunmetal. think about how it will look I think I’m going to leave the wing clear, not sure if it will look right when you can see the backing colour, and painted wings always flake. Also, can I be ******* to mask the windows, it is worth it if I’m going to stick a decal on anyway.....?
  12. Man, travel is a b**ch at times. Away in Denmark for work for 5 days and then had to catch up on all of those "missed" days of work, hey ho. where were we ( if your still reading that is.....) ah yes, the rear gear box. Shelled out for the alloy mount, the speed tuned and the plastic gear set. Speed Tuned is an option for later, but for the moment its the standard spur. Lube of choice is Boeshield T9. Used Finish Line Dry Lube a lot years ago, but ive found this to be excellent on the bike and I see no reason why it wont work well here. Debated whether to go full bore on the screws that hold the casing cover on, and decided yes. M3x14 and M3x16 fit perfectly with standard nuts. a few more minutes work and we're fitting turnbuckles ( 3Racing Ti and Tamiya Low Friction ends) and the rear shock brace. Here a pair of counter sunk washers and a nyloc nut should provide a little more strength, looks good too.... M3 x12 and and M3 x 16 do the job perfectly. Plus the nyloc goes over the edge of the casing holding it in place. Next time.... the front gear box and Dampers!!! stay tuned.
  13. Got pics? I follow but the where is not entirely clear
  14. @Turbotom shim the hubs eh? do tell.
  15. if you pop the ball put what diameter is it?
  16. After that I began tapping the holes for m3 screws, that done this is how the Diff sits in the rear gear box. Jazrider Alloy gear case as it seems to be a part that breaks often.
  17. Finally got a photo hosting site, (thanks @netsmithUK for TcPhotos.net!) so a barrage or posts are on the way. Yes, i documented everything you lucky things you....... Lets go back to the ball diffs: having sanded the plates it was time to build. I always used two different greases back in the day, Tamiya Ball Dif grease on the plates/balls and AE black greae for the thrust bearings. It never hurts to use the right grease for the job and these two applications do need different types of grease, should make them last longer as well. Ready: BDiff grease to hold the balls in, i';m quite liberal with it. Bit of BDiff grease to hold the plates on during the build: Another liberal coat of BDiff grease to the plates surfaces where they will contact the balls: put them together and et voila: MMMM, greasy, and yet not so slick that the balls cant grip the plates, silicone grease is amazing. After a few tries i found it easier to complete both sides of the plate assembly and then work on the Thurst bearing. Much AE Black Grease. AFAIk its a high pressure grease with some lubricating inclusions designed for thrust bearings. either way, it's always worked well, so again a liberal coating. I've built this on the diff screw as I found it easier. add the springs and in it goes! I tightened fully, then backed off an 1/8th of a turn for now. once the electrics are in I'll bed the diff in properly and then see how tight it needs to be. Done!
  18. I have a thread in the re-re discussions https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/92174-another-top-force-build/&page=2&tab=comments#comment-780177 that should probably be in “the builds” sub forum
  19. Yeah, sounds like dropping the FDR might help, that or throttle curve on the esc. i got the speed tuned gear set from Tamico, postage doubles the price.
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