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matisse

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Posts posted by matisse

  1. Posted

    18 hours ago, skom25 said:

    Red and Green are the same, but different size. I saw Black, which I believe are TRF. They are stiffer and have bit different shape.

    I think @matisse can say few words more.

    IIRC the colour of the bladder matched to the bore of the damper.

    the TRF oil seals are an upgrade, and fit the DF03 and Aeration shocks which i think are 10mm bore

    • Like 1

  4. Posted

    2 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

    Good to hear. That's my intention (shorty). I guess there's a small downside in terms of weight distribution but that's kind of subjective in this case. 

    Hey @ThunderDragonCy do you pop the driveshaft out to take the battery out? I assume the driveshaft is designed as it is, with the spring glued in, for that purpose? 

    Indeed, and i liked the original battery layout for the is reason, it was just a pig to get in and out.

    if you remove the top “brace” its a bit easier to access. 

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    10 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

    On battery mounting, I assume the reason we don't see folk using the TD2 parts in their entirety - sliding a battery in then body clips to refix the opened side - is simply no one's found a body to fit that width? One option might be to design parts that fit just the same as the TD2 battery doors, but stay flush with the tub to clear the shell while fitting a shorty. 

    Yeah, which is why i fitted the Madcap to my TD2. It’s about the only shell that fits and looks good, tad short at the nose though

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    On 8/11/2023 at 4:17 AM, GToddC5 said:

    I'm just seeing this thread now. I have close to 50 Junior buggies and Mini 4wd trucks, mostly from the 80s and 90s. I only have one built so far, but I intend on building more for display next to my 1/10 models as they get built/rebuilt. I love them, they are like "professional" Stompers, for those that remember those things. 

    PXL_20230113_011641510.thumb.jpg.aebd31904838d45c881c9f495e908810.jpg

     

    PXL_20230113_011716821.thumb.jpg.d1f6559194c7841d1f3d2dc22001dba4.jpg

     Man, Stompers…that takes me back

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

    All the salient points have been covered really, but to precis:

    CVA can be made to work well with a few small upgrades.

    Any well known brand alloy damper is a decent upgrade

    Tamiya TRF are excellent, if pricey

    X-Rings or TRF O-rings are a must

    Build with a good shock slime. AE/VG/1up.

     

    Oh, and remove the blue anodising ;P

     

    • Thanks 1

  16. Posted

    Rebound, is a good tuning tool for shocks, and it’s important to set/match both sides of a pair.

    Set the pair of pistons to the same length, body to eyelet, and then you can use a combination of spring cups to set various rebound rates by setting how far the piston is into the body when you build. 
     

    I like more rebound on the front than the rear, allowed a little extra tuning for understeer iirc.

    Adam Drake’s video is very good on this subject

    This vid is the reason I ran the Aeration buggy shocks with bladders and foam inserts and the option for vented caps.

  20. Posted

    On 8/25/2023 at 6:21 AM, skom25 said:

    Update:

    I have to say it again: I am tired with this build. Too many Hop Ups, too many changes, too many issues. I know it is part of getting experience but it is also frustrating.

    Next model ( whenever it be) I will build straight from box or just with few, main Hop Ups. To be honest, that was plan with current model... If I will be able, it will be also "higher end" car, because start with cheap chassis and buying tons of Hop Ups is not the best way to build RC in my case. If you buy one, you want another and another... I spent so much money on Hop Ups that I have feeling, I can bought something better straight from box.

    Ok, lets leave that and go with updates:

    Stickers added. My work is very, very much inspired by @matisse and his TT-02B.

    IMG-20230825-065206554-HDR.jpg

    IMG-20230825-065217793-HDR.jpg

    I need to add clear stickers to protect body from body clips and... probably it will be finished. Maybe I will add one or two stickers more.

    I also changed how motor cables are attached to receiver box. That plastic mount was fine but cables were not stable. I decided to just drill holes and use zip ties and stop to worry about details that something will not look super cool. In fact, it looks better now. Downside? As always I am idiot and somehow marker holes in wrong position, so they are moved by 0.5 mm and are not symmetrical. Good points? Cables are lower and super stable.

    IMG-20230825-065235466-HDR.jpg

    Where are the wheels?!

    I decided to go for DB-01RRRRRRRRR... wheels. As I wrote previously, I was not sure about stock wheels. I do not like that crazy colours etc, so decided to go for white. I prefer black but even one set was not available in LHS.

    BTW: It is funny how many R Tamiya can add to model name. DB-01 RRR. It means? Racing Racing Racing?

    :) looks great!

  23. Posted

    22 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

    I have to apologize, because I let this thread die quietly even though the car got upgrades...

    Well, I added TRF suspension parts months ago, because this is the fun part. But then I didn't have the motivation to upload the pictures and post it. I also switched to dish wheels to give it the "pro look". And then I put it on the shelf with the body design drawn already. I didn't find the time to finish it that week and so it stood several more weeks without me wanting to do the masking of the body. Lucky, today was a lazy day. No gardening, maintenance or other work disturbing and also no one who wanted to play outside with R/C cars. And so I got to finish the body, finally! After buying a 3in1 Formula One sticker sheet in Tokyo, I decided for a classic cigarette livery:

    img_85070uf00.jpg

    The body has real strange surfaces. I always feel like there is one window too much depending on the perspective :lol:

    img_8509wscrv.jpg

     

    Here now a view of the chassis with all its Hop-Ups:

    img_8511bvdv5.jpg

     

    Some more views:

    img_8515i9crk.jpg

    img_85173leo8.jpg

    img_851944eq5.jpg

    Delightful.

     

    its a much better looking car with the TRF/DB01 front hubs isnt it?

    what arms did you use?

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  24. Posted

    35 minutes ago, tamiya_1971 said:

    Was the Anderson similar to the Duratrax? I had the Duratrax motorcycle and I recall ordering parts from overseas and I swear they were Anderson parts.  I know the part I really hated about the Duratrax was the rider. Cruddy, hollow lexan held together with tiny screws. Many people injected the driver with that spray expanding spray foam. 

    Andersen was the Brand who did OEM work for Duratrax and LRP amongst other brands.

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    5 hours ago, Willy iine said:

    Thanks!  The color I have to give credit to @matisse for sharing his metallic burgundy recipe.  :D    I too love this color as I've seen 1:1 in person in this color and it is absolutely beautiful.   I am expecting alloy wheels to arrive soon, so will do another take down the road.

    Thanks again @GeeWings, @matisse!!    

    :) it looks incredible!

    • Thanks 1
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