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KirkE(2)

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About KirkE(2)

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  1. Here is a link to the auction for my F-40. No box but has manual and is in not too bad shape. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3124870221&rd=1 Kirk
  2. Thats an M-04L, isn't it?? [] Kirk
  3. Another hop-up/option part is: 53234- M-Chassis 4x65mm Aluminum Screw x5 These are the five long screws that bolt the front and rear bulkheads to the main chassis. The kit-supplied ones are steel. I upgraded a few years ago and when held in each hand in a comparison, the aluminum ones are quite a bit lighter. [] You sound like me with my M-02m. (Optioned out to the teeth...) Kirk
  4. TA03F-pro option parts and extra new and used plastic spare parts up for auction... http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...3122078274&rd=1 Kirk
  5. Hi all, I have the following used Tamiya option parts for sale or trade; 53275 TA03 Alum. motor heat sink 53288 TA03 Alum. rear uprights 53302 TA03Fpro Carbon chassis plates 53316 TA03 Alum. front hub carriers 53326 TA03 Alum. Racing stays 53364 TA03 Carbon steering bar Along with these items in the picture link below, I will include a bunch of plastic parts also, (new front and rear gearbox parts and a bunch of other plastic parts too).You need your own diffs and gears. I was working on building a "David Jun" TA03F and have a lot of the parts but I think I like the 'quirkiness' of the FF01 more.[] As title says, this stuff is for sale or trade as I am interested in new FF01 parts such as a new unused chassis and new unpainted body,(Accord, Primera, Civic etc.), and other unused parts. Looking to build up a new FF01 to use in the GT2 class of an upcoming Canadian TCS. Let me know if you're interested with offers ,(money or parts). []Thanks eh! Kirk /http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UgDdAuoZKk6bi4eqUue78!bBgtHPf!C5gcxLU7oBWFRIDrhqfqDm5NQnmmi4RwP1iyvEM0xOOHTZD1m8r3bcQ3zHP!lVbh9KT1*V0*I*G8QeHCWwyZhEqhpEvhbr9ur8/TA03proparts.jpg?dc=4675413380252838028
  6. I myself am in the process of rebuilding/refurbishing an FF01. I have found that www.ehobbiesoutlet.com has the gearbox, (50638 A-parts), and some other parts sets still in stock for the FF01/TA02FF. Plus, they are at discounted prices. I'm soon to try out ordering some parts from them. (I'm in Canada so shipping shouldn't be too prohibitive...) If you don't really care too much though if it's in brand new condition, I do have a spare used gearbox. It is fairly scuffed on the bottom but pretty good up top. It is also only missing the little plastic "swingy thing" that you pivot to check your gearmesh... (like the tech-lingo??[]) and you would also need to supply the small bumper piece. It comes on the 50641 E-parts set. Would be willing to trade for some part that you may have extra and I need myself. Let me know... [] Kirk
  7. For nicad's, the best routine to get in to is to purchase a discharger or at least some bulbs and a cut-off device and use it to take the pack down to 5.4V, (0.9V per cell). Then just store them in your kit box or wherever until you go to charge them again. (Best if they are given a couple days rest for optimum life and performance). Nimh batteries are best stored at about 1/2 charge until you go to charge and even then, you don't have to discharge first. Just set on peak charge and wait.[] Kirk
  8. Whoops, sorry about that... Went upstairs as I was in the middle of typing and when I posted it, I see I'm too slow on the draw[] Kirk
  9. To do it, you have to unscrew the tops of the shocks where they mount to the rear tower. Also, you need to remove the screw that holds the little rear bumper, the two screws holding the rear suspension onto the main tub chassis, and the two screws holding the rear tower to the 'box' shaped brace on the upper-side of the chassis. Set aside the rear tower and lift away the rear suspension from the main chassis. Turning over the suspension section, you will see on the middle mount section, two rectangular indents each with two screw holes. They line up with the similarly shape nub on the rear extended section of the main chassis. Your Clio was mounted in the rear hole. You now want to mount the suspension into the forward one. Start putting the parts back together and at this point, you simply 'turn' the rear tower so that the side with the wide rectangular extension is facing forward. From there, it should be "clickity-click, Barba-trick"[] Kirk
  10. [] That thing is great!! I have a box of M-02 parts here and was considering making a front wheel drive chassis, (M-01) from them but that dual motor/ four wheel drive is an interesting project too!!! Kirk
  11. Hi Vito, I too run my M-02m Eunos Roadster,(Miata) in the Canadian TCS M-chassis class. I just ran it in the TCS in Scarborough two weeks ago and here in Kingston a month ago. I've already qualified for the Canadian National Finals in Toronto this August. If you are running it in rear wheel drive form, you must use 60D tires and an 18 tooth pinion. True, the later chassis' are a little more refined but as you said, it does turn heads when you pull the bodyshell off and people see what old car just smoked' them...[] Kirk
  12. I just did a little trading with a guy in our r/c racing club today. In the trade I received an FF01, (used to be the Calsonic Primera), with some Tamiya hop-ups. He also included a separate aftermarket chassis by HPI. It honestly looks like an Associated T3 truck chassis with the inline battery position and kick-up side wings. It is also made of what appears to be carbon composite, similar to the Team Associated material. It has a separate top deck that the steering servo mounts on and a side bar that you remove to access the battery slot. Just thought I'd report it...[] Kirk
  13. You should have no trouble at all using your original radio with a new upgraded speed control. Just plug it into the receiver, (then do the one-touch set-up), and giver'...[] Pretty much any Novak esc from entry-level to full competition is a good solid bet. Kirk
  14. Hi there Vito. I'm in Canada as well, (Kingston) and I also have a HotWheels collection. I admit mine is the contemporary stuff though, (1997 and up). Mainly VW Busses,TH's,LE,SE,Promotionals. I only have a couple red-lines. A spectraflame red McLaren M6A, a rrRumblers "Rip Snorter" blue/yellow, and a blue Revvers fire-truck. None in really great shape though. I have slowed down the HW collecting recently though. Going to focus more on R/C stuff...[] Kirk
  15. At our club, we use foams in our 1/10 nitro sedan class. We all use "Speed Mind" foams, (hobby shop gets good deal on them...[]). We generally use tires rated from about the 38-45 shore range. I like the '#',(shore) system as it is more finely incremented than the colour designations. I myself like to use 45 shore in front/ 40 shore in rear. The Yokomo seems to have gobs of traction so I have to tune it out with a little harder compound foam. Best part is that from softest to hardest, they are all the same price... Kirk
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