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Tizer

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About Tizer

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 09/06/1990

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    superik21@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.wreckitsideways.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Eindhoven, Netherlands
  • Interests
    RC Drifting - 2012/2014 D1:10 National Champion
    Team Wreck it Sideways

Recent Profile Visitors

2250 profile views
  1. Thanks for posting the progress here! I really enjoy following your builds It's a better overview here than on Instagram
  2. I bought from RC-Art a couple of times already Good experience so far
  3. Tizer

    TB-02R rebuild

    If I spot another in Japan I'll let you know. I often buy my stuff from Yahoo Auctions
  4. Quick update on this car. I've finally made a descision and went for the all-red dampers. It's less original to the car, but it just looks better. I took the dampers apart and gave them a wash in the ultrasonic. I reassembled them with only a bit of oil as I won't be driving the car anyway. I still need to dig up my red spring retainers for this chassis The one thing I still really want to fix is the front bumper. Unfortunately both of my donor chassis have a scratched up bumper and a normal TBevo3 bumper is slightly different. I had a TRF414 bumper brand new, but that's ones different too Recently while I was ordering some other really rare TB evo bits (you'll see those later I'm sure) I also got some wheels I figured would be perfect for the Surikarn. They are a limited edition set of dish wheels in black. Not sure what's so special about them as they are just black, but it's a cool detail All put together it now looks like this. Still needs electronics, not sure which ones yet, and maybe some extra red bits and rear bodyposts.
  5. Tizer

    TB-02R rebuild

    Cool project! You should keep an eye out for the blue lightweight propshaft from Tamiya. It was a hopup for the TB evo 3 and TB02 and it will suit the look of your build really well.
  6. That longer TA02 chassis is interesting. Where can you buy it?
  7. Uploaded all of my runs from the D1:10 World Championship in June I ended up making it into final day on sunday in 46st place. Not the best result ever, but better than last year and best Dutch driver which is cool.
  8. M-chassis would be around 160mm wide, so close to the specs you need. Having a 2WD car will make it a lot easier for you to play around with the wheelbase as you don't need any power going to the other wheels, meaning getting longer/shorter driveshafts or belts and having everything aligned properly. Something like an M03 would be great, because everything you need is contained in the front part of the chassis. Motor, gearbox, front suspension, steering and even the battery. It also has easy mounting tabs on both the front and back (where the bumper or back half of the chassis normally go) to bolt other stuff to for your custom build. Plus it's cheap!
  9. Good point about the king pins, I forgot about those So the TA02 dogbones are longer than the TA01? I never really mix&matched those parts so didn't have a change to compare. Makes it even easier to convert to TA02W then
  10. TA02W actually uses different parts to create the width than the TA02SW. On the SW it's just the offset wheels to make it wider, on the TA02W it's the front suspension that's different to create the width. You really only need two parts to make it work. First you need TA01 front knuckles. You can keep the original TA02 lower and upper arms, it's just the extra scrub from the knuckles that gives you the width. You will also need different shafts/dogbones/axles or whatever you want to call them. TA01 knuckles use different bearings so you'll either need TA01 wheel axles and a longer dogbone, or the slightly rare TA02W front universal driveshafts. I'm not sure about the exact length of the dogbone, but there might be a modern CVD alternative that will fit too
  11. With the FRP chassis kit now readily available again since the rerelease, that would be the best option if you want to use square battery packs
  12. Those would look great with the GF01 Land Cruiser body as well I think
  13. Orientate on it's side, with the bore for the kingpin vertical. That way every layer of the print is around the kingpin. Otherwise there's a good chance it will just split between layers and pull the kingpin through. At least that's what I do
  14. You can send a customer a message right after they order something You should have an email from Shapeways congratulating you on your sale with the option in there to message the customer. Unless that person used a guest account. You can think of moving your shop inventory to Etsy. Etsy is a much more complete platform for selling stuff like this with shop reviews etc. The only downside is that it won't be possible for a customer to order from multiple shops at the same time and get it all shipped together.
  15. You are right, the PA12GB is stiffer because of the beads but also more brittle. The glass beads don't adhere to the plastic really, they just make it less flexible. PA11 should be a good choice, it's a little bit more flexible. Should be able to handle impacts better. My favourite still is just the normal PA12 SLS nylon (Versatile Plastic). Works well as long as it's designed beefy enough. Orientation makes a huge difference though, so make sure you set it to the correct orientation. You can lock the orientation on the Shapeways 3D tools.
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