Jump to content

hedge

Members
  • Content Count

    998
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

143 Excellent

About hedge

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bournemouth

Recent Profile Visitors

2592 profile views
  1. I only really need the cylinder but if you have a complete unit I would be happy to take it. Send me a message if you have one please UK postage PayPal waiting
  2. There are two things I’ve heard. The first is when you run the cars without the body, if they roll the pump can get snapped off. The second issue I’ve heard of is that the tank is prone to leaking around the pump so people seal them up.
  3. There is a formulae for this. [How good is the solder] x [Urgency to use] / X = [Likelihood of having put the heatshrink on] Essentially the better the job you do and the urgency to use said job, the less likely you are to have put the heat shrink on .
  4. Life batteries are a little slower but much, much, much safer. They dont damage easily when you over discharge and are better at being left discharged. They charge to 6.6v as opposed to 7.4v so dont provide the punch you'll get from lipo's. Its been far to long since I ran NiMh so can't offer a comparison although I am sure someone will pass by.
  5. I saw a great comment recently related to nitro cars - "when they make 1/8th scale fuel particles we can apply the same logic that full size engines apply"
  6. Very nice @KEV THE REV.I like the raised brake, most I have seen are from the chassis floor up, but this looks cleaner. I have noticed that the shape of yours and others front windshield is different to mine, yours is raised - jutting out at the top, whereas mine is flat. On the front bumper mounts, are they fixed with one or two screws or some other combination? Many Thanks
  7. Yeah I have plans for that as well, only issue I have with a brake is my carb is an air carb so no throttle stop screw, but I think I can work something out. was also thinking I could 3D print the front optional bumper mounts, can’t see it being too hard and then the actual rod itself is simply a metal bar. Still got an engine problem not sure if it’s tuning or perhaps timing, going to try a cooler plug when I next get out.
  8. So the first two / three mods are done and wow what a difference, the car is night and day in handling. So I had read about a mod that was for the front suspension using Roughrider/Sandscorcher dampers, and I thought I would apply them to the rear instead. They are sort of period, albeit more for the 1981 release as opposed the 1990 that my model is. I had these in my spares and I also had the CRP coilovers. I had seen a car on http://mardavemarauder.weebly.com/ that had a different rear suspension set up than the standard Mardave upgrade and thought - I can make those. So here you have it, rear suspension extension ears. In addition I had seen a few cars that had Tamiya Universal Joints (UJs) again quite a period upgrade, they require drilling out to 6mm and then the rear wheel shafts are too long however today I just ran with the wider track as I did not want to do any un-reversible mods. As I say above wow, wow, wow, what a difference. I was able to put down sustained power and the car remained "quite" planted... I say quite because its still a handful, just much less of a handful than it was A quick pic showing the shocks and the UJs, also there is another spring inside the shock body with the oil - or at least what oil is left, these are old SRB shocks after all Going to try and fit a damper under the front body and fit a brake. Still struggling to get the tune, but getting closer with every attempt.
  9. So a bit of early evening fun. For those who have watched other vids of mine the space should be well known and you can see just how poorly the Mardave handles the bumps. Going to do a couple of old school mods and try and calm that "bounciness" down but for now just happy to hear that engine popping and spluttering its way through a few mins of running. I hope you enjoy this as much as I did getting here...
  10. So I finished the body last week. I wanted the 1990s box art but with a deeper colour blue. I should add at this point I dont really know what the roof or the wing or the rear of the car look like, I have only ever seen the picture below of the box, not like a Tamiya where we get to clearly see all sides and perspectives... The paints are all halfords rattle cans, I am not very patient when it comes to painting and masking but I tried hard with this one. I gave the body a light sanding, the original silver colour was OK as a base but there where a couple of areas where the paint had dripped. I then added around 4-5 coats of white primer, this is thick and rubbed down well. I then sprayed it a couple of coats of white. Now I masked it off where the white would be. I then applied 2-3 coats of clear laquer to stop the blue and green bleeding through the masking tape. Now I Masked off the blue area and sprayed 2 coats of green, then masked off then green area and sprayed 2 coats of blue. Finally I did 2 coats of petrol proof clear laquer to finish it off. Between each colour I left the car for a day to dry and then I left it for a week after the final laquer was on. Decals are just stuff had lying around. I am pleased with the final result and looking forward to running it with the body on.
  11. The TT-02 type S has a quicker motor as stock which helps it win, however the bathtub chassis gets full of everything your driving on which is a real pain. Not my review below but worth checking out
  12. I am a bit torn. I find it hard to recommend this car, yet I really like it. Ive been running it for a little over a week now and in that short time there have been a number of issues that needed addressing one of which may well be the nail in the coffin for this car. I will run through the issues, some may well be localised to my car, but hopefully one day someone will find this thread and get a small piece of value out of it. 1) The throttle linkage at the carb end is the old Z bend, but the carb arm is so thin the Z bend rod does not form a tight connection and can slip through the carb arm effectively jamming the car into a jogging speed idle. I added a small O'ring to pad the connection and stop the slop / slip. Ultimately the best solution would be proper rod ends and ball joints. 2) The steering circle is huge, not just for a small car but actually huge, my 1/8th scales can turn in a smaller circle. Easy fix right... well I made it tighter by extending the steering linkage connector out one hole on the servo horn. I then promptly lost a drive shaft - I know I should have checked! Luckily it was in my small garden so said shaft was easily found. I have now padded the drive cups with neoprene spacers like you find in some Tamiya builds, no more lost drive shafts. 3) The engine mount bolts holding the engine to the mount unscrewed themselves and disappeared. My fault entirely but worth checking before each run. 4) Not such an issue more an observation. I always use 25% buggy nitro across all my land vehicles. I also always use OS#6 hot plugs in land based stuff (OS#8s in helicopters) however the #6 seemed to be too much for the little engine, swapping the #6 for a cooler #8 seemed to do the trick. 5) The steering was tight, real tight. There where two prompts, first when setting the steering for a tighter turning circle I realised the steering was tight - hard to move, the second prompt was I went through the RX battery really quick. Thankfully, and this is a credit to the car, the Steering servo did not burn out during this period. There where two problems, the fuel tank was tight up against the steering pillar on the left, it was actually acting like a brake. Now the tank is between this column and the spur gear! Yikes. So I carefully removed some material from the tank seam where it goes around the steering pillar - check, file, refit, check file.... etc. Eventually with not much material removed we had clearance. The second rather non issue was the ball joint was very tight on the right hand side. A quick resize with a ball reamer and all was nice and loose. Also the ackerman steering bar dos not allow full movement of the steering, the raised stoppers on the bar require shaving by about half a mm each side to achieve a good steering lock. 6) I lost the tune, the manual does not have factory settings but I found someone online who had a similar engine and said... HSN flush with brass tube then in one turn (360degrees) LSN flush with tube then in half (1/2) a turn (180 degrees) Throttle stop screw approx. 1mm gap Seems to work ok, back to a rich but running car working just as you would expect. 7) The biggie! Now the car is able to happily run in 1/10th - 1/8th territory, that is to say I run it where I run all my cars and on the whole its 100% fine. Except its not. The size of the car means that it gets caught up on sticks that a 1/10th or 1/8th would not notice. In a few cases this means the whole drive train is stopped in an instant. On one of these occasions after clearing it the car would not run well - it was now FWD only. On stripping it down the bevel gear that connects the main drive shaft to the differential was free to move on its shaft - it should be solid. Now there is no upgrade part for this, just a few spares, they are not expensive but they are absolutely critical to the car moving and like most novelty vehicles I cant see the 1/16th Meteor spare parts being supported for any length of time. Soooo I am looking at an alternative as we speak. There is a 1/16th buggy called an NB that appears to have a similar gear albeit a single piece of cast metal - can't see that stripping. Problem is I dont know how many teeth it has, so, if this is not right (I'll return it) then there is a further 1/16th model which has a metal cast bevel of the same teeth count (11t). In either case I am happy to shorten and flatten shafts and change bearings to fit the new shaft diameter, I just hope the teeth mesh well. The reason I went the NB route first was its UK shipped, whereas this other vehicle comes from banggood so will take a while to get here. In the meantime I have a couple of spares to keep me going. However I do love this little car, it starts really well and in general is fun to drive as its quite snappy and well planted. However unless I am just unlucky then the issues I've had would lead to many just giving up and selling it on or worse, leaving it in the cupboard getting dusty, hence I would not recommend it. Shame really.
  13. A very capable machine! Have you started it yet? I tend to find engine warmers are a must have item to get new race engines started. Then I always forget to set BDC after the first few runs lol.
  14. So after the run on Friday it would not start again. When I got home I removed the engine and had another look at it. What struck me was the colour of the fuel that “poured” out when I removed the back plate, it was a grey colour. So I decided I had to remove the camshaft and get the bearings out. I stuck it in the oven at 150 degrees for 10mins and then with a lot of effort I was able to remove the nut holding it all together. I also have some RTV on the way as I think the engine is not airtight around the carb. My hope is that the fuel is contaminated and / or the glow plug is suffering from fouling added to slight air leak all of which Is contribute to starting issues. Who knows, but at the very worst it will be like it is now but with new bearings.
×
×
  • Create New...