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  1. I use LiFe batteries as they are lower voltage and closer to the 6v they replace. That said if you have HV servos then lipo is the way to go.
  2. I would add that outside of a very short amount of time with the SRBs - highly modified at that - Tamiyas only real racing success was the TRF touring cars with Marc Rheinard.
  3. I raced one of the early CAT bitd and it was one planted car. I came from a highly modified (FRP chassis, shocks on all corners) Hotshot and this thing blew that away as well as the Associated RC10s. I ran it for around 3 months then swapped it for a PB mini mustang which while slower at worlds level was more suited to my driving style and was for me at least a step up from the CAT.
  4. I only really need the cylinder but if you have a complete unit I would be happy to take it. Send me a message if you have one please UK postage PayPal waiting
  5. There are two things I’ve heard. The first is when you run the cars without the body, if they roll the pump can get snapped off. The second issue I’ve heard of is that the tank is prone to leaking around the pump so people seal them up.
  6. There is a formulae for this. [How good is the solder] x [Urgency to use] / X = [Likelihood of having put the heatshrink on] Essentially the better the job you do and the urgency to use said job, the less likely you are to have put the heat shrink on .
  7. Life batteries are a little slower but much, much, much safer. They dont damage easily when you over discharge and are better at being left discharged. They charge to 6.6v as opposed to 7.4v so dont provide the punch you'll get from lipo's. Its been far to long since I ran NiMh so can't offer a comparison although I am sure someone will pass by.
  8. I saw a great comment recently related to nitro cars - "when they make 1/8th scale fuel particles we can apply the same logic that full size engines apply"
  9. Very nice @KEV THE REV.I like the raised brake, most I have seen are from the chassis floor up, but this looks cleaner. I have noticed that the shape of yours and others front windshield is different to mine, yours is raised - jutting out at the top, whereas mine is flat. On the front bumper mounts, are they fixed with one or two screws or some other combination? Many Thanks
  10. Yeah I have plans for that as well, only issue I have with a brake is my carb is an air carb so no throttle stop screw, but I think I can work something out. was also thinking I could 3D print the front optional bumper mounts, can’t see it being too hard and then the actual rod itself is simply a metal bar. Still got an engine problem not sure if it’s tuning or perhaps timing, going to try a cooler plug when I next get out.
  11. So the first two / three mods are done and wow what a difference, the car is night and day in handling. So I had read about a mod that was for the front suspension using Roughrider/Sandscorcher dampers, and I thought I would apply them to the rear instead. They are sort of period, albeit more for the 1981 release as opposed the 1990 that my model is. I had these in my spares and I also had the CRP coilovers. I had seen a car on http://mardavemarauder.weebly.com/ that had a different rear suspension set up than the standard Mardave upgrade and thought - I can make those. So here you have it, rear suspension extension ears. In addition I had seen a few cars that had Tamiya Universal Joints (UJs) again quite a period upgrade, they require drilling out to 6mm and then the rear wheel shafts are too long however today I just ran with the wider track as I did not want to do any un-reversible mods. As I say above wow, wow, wow, what a difference. I was able to put down sustained power and the car remained "quite" planted... I say quite because its still a handful, just much less of a handful than it was A quick pic showing the shocks and the UJs, also there is another spring inside the shock body with the oil - or at least what oil is left, these are old SRB shocks after all Going to try and fit a damper under the front body and fit a brake. Still struggling to get the tune, but getting closer with every attempt.
  12. So a bit of early evening fun. For those who have watched other vids of mine the space should be well known and you can see just how poorly the Mardave handles the bumps. Going to do a couple of old school mods and try and calm that "bounciness" down but for now just happy to hear that engine popping and spluttering its way through a few mins of running. I hope you enjoy this as much as I did getting here...
  13. So I finished the body last week. I wanted the 1990s box art but with a deeper colour blue. I should add at this point I dont really know what the roof or the wing or the rear of the car look like, I have only ever seen the picture below of the box, not like a Tamiya where we get to clearly see all sides and perspectives... The paints are all halfords rattle cans, I am not very patient when it comes to painting and masking but I tried hard with this one. I gave the body a light sanding, the original silver colour was OK as a base but there where a couple of areas where the paint had dripped. I then added around 4-5 coats of white primer, this is thick and rubbed down well. I then sprayed it a couple of coats of white. Now I masked it off where the white would be. I then applied 2-3 coats of clear laquer to stop the blue and green bleeding through the masking tape. Now I Masked off the blue area and sprayed 2 coats of green, then masked off then green area and sprayed 2 coats of blue. Finally I did 2 coats of petrol proof clear laquer to finish it off. Between each colour I left the car for a day to dry and then I left it for a week after the final laquer was on. Decals are just stuff had lying around. I am pleased with the final result and looking forward to running it with the body on.
  14. The TT-02 type S has a quicker motor as stock which helps it win, however the bathtub chassis gets full of everything your driving on which is a real pain. Not my review below but worth checking out
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