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  1. Most kit is 2.4ghz, there are a few ways it works depending on what you've got. Simple ones scan the 2.4ghz range when the Transmitter is switched on, when they find 2 clear channels they save them, then when you turn on the Receiver it locks onto those two channels. More advanced systems constantly switch from channel to channel only ever selecting it if its clear and available. All this happens in the blink of an eye. This negates the need to hard wire the channel - aka putting crystals in.
  2. The ESC is an Electronic Speed Controller, this does away with the old Mechanical speed controller and servo. You should only have 1) Receiver 2) Front steering servo 3) ESC 4) Battery
  3. I would look at rcracing.tv any of the finals in the 1/10 scale (or whatever scale your planning on using) onroad, these shells offer the best handling. I am not sure what the difference is between shell choice and scale, but 1/8th road and 1/12 carpet look very similar in shape and both are insanely fast requiring as much downforce as they can get. All the above assumes your into racing, if flat out top speed is your thing then I would expect the shape will change again.
  4. I think the Grasshopper was my second Tamiya after my Sandrover... This was a long time ago and I could be wrong. What I do remember though is that I got it at Christmas and my mate - let’s call him Dave - Dave and me went to a place local to him and ragged our Christmas presents ragged. “Ready for poor description :-)” There was this bank which was about 3ft/1m high and you could jump up it or down it. Up landed on mud, roughly at the same height as the bank, down on to tarmac 1m down. whenever I think if the Grasshopper, it’s that day and only that day that comes to mind. I don’t remember running it at any other time - which is weird as I def would have kept it for at least a year. Anyhow I keep looking at them on eBay and what gets me is that second hand built ones with various broken bits seem to go for more than the new inbox ones? I don’t get it, in my mind £50 should be the level they are at yet more often I see them at £100+ ? I don’t get it. Anyway maybe I’ll crumble and get one again but for now at least just getting this off my chest is keepin the “buy it now” at bay. Love the look, love the memories of me and “Dave” but feel the reality will be a little less exciting.
  5. It’s quite bizarre, life imitating art.... Tamiya have licensed this car to be copied.... just think about that for a moment, I am sure there would have been smiles around the board room as this was signed :-)
  6. I love mine, but in all honesty looking at what you've got unless you have always wanted one I would part it out. It will take a ton of money to get it up to scratch.
  7. Yikess I am out of date, I did nationals and regionals for a few years, 4 sets where standard then... Guess they wanted cheaper entry point - good thing too! Still, tyres are key to success and 4 set or 2 understanding how best to prep them and get the most grip out of them is key.
  8. The cold hard fact of racing touring cars is tyres tyres tyres. They are all that connects you to the track. Tyre warmers, tyre cleaner and tyre additive all need to be used along with roughly 4 sets of new tyres for each weekend event or 2 sets for a one day event. Some races will define the tyre you use and limit the sets (normally to 4). Using new tyres gives you consistency in set up as you get the same grip each time. Some people swear by “scrubbed” tyres but if you ask top tier driver they will always want to start a race on new rubber. It’s all about the prep work, clean, treat and heat.
  9. Excellent job, looks amazing. Nothing better imho than taking something a bit broken and unloved and turning it into a showcase car. Awesome.
  10. Friends stay the night, in the morning they ask - who's the toy car under the bed for?
  11. Wow fluke, that should be good :-). I would strip and rebuild, I would expect (not guarantee) a lot of rust in the rear bearings and the piston pin to be seized/sticky on the con rod. I would be surprised but not shocked if you could see or feel any roughness on the liner but I would look for it and also look at the piston body for damage. once it’s all clean reassemble... now there is a chance that reassembly will move the position of the piston/liner and provide a bit more compression for a short while, maybe :-)
  12. Sounds like a classic case of worn out piston/liner. While it won’t change the issue your having did you completely strip and rebuild the engine or just throw oil at it and force it? 200-210 is not super hot, in fact it’s a good temp, but where and how are you measuring it?
  13. I’ll get in with the Nitro one :-) This is a very (non bling) hopped up car. Balllink style adjustable turnbuckle steering rods to increase suspension travel. TT-01e front and rear suspension mounts for additional damper mounting options. TT-01d lower front and rear arms for additional damper mount options plus fronts offer droop stop adjustment. TT-01r upper front and rear arms for adjustment. Ballraced all round and the diffs are shimmed to reduce slip. Also has the friction free suspension balls for super smooth suspension movement and of course oil filled dampers to replace the old pogo sticks. Lastly a nitro specific upgrade, it has the speed up gear hoppup. Its modded for 24mm ride height, the perfect rally car :-)
  14. That rear exhaust does look too tight, there are 180 degree manifolds that are quite small but I dont think you would be able to fit one in there, plus by the time youve bought a couple to test with, your picking away at your new engine money Maybe sell this new engine and then keep a look out for an original Tamiya?
  15. Had a good blast around Easter weekend. Was the cars first run this year. It had been cleaned up and after run oiled up prior to its winter rest. Started around the 5th-6th pull, "The" needle needed richening a quarter turn, since last time it ran was the end of summer so was leaned out for warm weather (20-30 degrees Celsius) however it was a bit chilly (8-10 degrees Celsius) out of the sun this weekend. The new suspension balls work really well, no more sticking suspension travel, very pleased with this car, very enjoyable and about as low maintenance as you can get in a nitro. It's got around 24mm clearance so is really good at off road / rally style, looking forward to a year of trying various surfaces.
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