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hedge

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About hedge

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  1. Looks like your going for it. Stiff Chassis, Savox steering, Race spec battery - good man!. The one big thing missing from this set up is droop adjustment. Not sure if the TT-02 has it - I know the TT-01 did so would assume there is some option somewhere, you might have to loose the lower arm bling but you will gain confidence. Droop helps balance the car and with a 3.5t you need all the help you can get lol. The races I used to attend where 3.5 mod was run ( forget 3s btw ) always used Sorex tyres pre-glued sets - Check out this BRCA racing link about testing tyres for Modified racing https://www.brca.org/sections/10th/10ec/brca-10th-electric-circuit-modified-tyre-amendment. The numbers refer to the temp/grip level. Its very hard as a basher to make sense of these numbers as they are designed for tracks, which by design do not have as much dust, dirt and debris as a carpark/road. Also by default everyone running would be using tyre warmers and tyre additives not that this will affect your car shredding tyres or flipping but the grip levels will be far higher than you can attain. Finally on tyres these meets are limited to 4 tyre sets which everyone in mod will use across approx 8-10 runs, think about that... For you thats throwing away your tyres every 2-3 runs, again that's the cost of running at this level. As was stated earlier the diff lock should be in the front, but ideally you want a one way spool as opposed to a solid lock. In the rear personally I would put a slipper diff not an oil filled diff but that's me and I am old school. I would also expect to burn up a few slipper diffs while working out what works - how tight and how lubed to go, I would also expect at this level to re-build the slipper every 3-4 runs or so - if I was racing it would be every run. Can't really help on the gearing, there should be a ballpark provided with your motor esc combo, either way it will be silly fast, most racers would look to get the punch they needed while not topping out on the straight, as I said on your other thread, with 3.5 mod its rare to actually hit top speed on a track, mostly its just the acceleration that's geared to. If it was mine I would get a 10.5t, re-arrange the diffs, get a few sets of Sorex tyres and then once your used to it put the 3.5 back in. Good luck!
  2. +1 Colin at rcbearings.co.uk has supplied me with 100s of bearings for all my RC. Great chap!
  3. I know you want a fix and you dont want negativity so good luck. I remember chatting to the UK 1/10th champion modified touring car racer in the 90s he said you never use full speed - ever, until your 100% sure and then on the UKs largest tracks its just a blip. 99% of the time its managed speed. That's on race specc'ed chassis, with no budget limitations, controlled by the best thumbs in the country. What are you trying to achieve?
  4. So I've been waiting on some parts this week. I had identified the issue in the stock TT-01 that when I raised the ride height I was no longer getting full suspension travel. Cant be bothered to put stock parts back on but my best guess is Ride Height 24mm Suspension Travel between 16-18mm. I have now solved it, needed two parts 1) TT-01 Type E Chassis A parts for the upper damper mount. There are two fixing holes and the outer upper one is the best. However this still did not give full movement - se e video below. 2) TT-01D (Drift) B Parts for the lower front and rear arms. These again have two mounting holes and its the outer hole you want This vid shows the front with both parts and the rear with the Type E parts only. I did not do a full before and after with stock TT-01 parts but it was worse! First the rear with just the TT-01 Type e mount, then the front with both TT-01E and TT-01D parts! You can just make out the optional holes. The other issue I faced was the car quit with what sounded like a pretty bad issue. I've stripped it down but only two things really caught my eye 1) Was the nut holding the flywheel on was not very tight. 2) The connecting rod had a lot of slop around the cam shaft. I've ordered a new Rod you can see the slop below, not sure if this was the culprit or if its simply a loose nut. The final vid shows the last 2 laps, just enough to get your ear into the sound then you can hear the noise as it stops on the bottom straight just after the corner. Engine Quits
  5. Good read, Cotswolds is an awesome track, that back straight with that kick at the end takes some getting used to at full tilt, marshalling at that end, is like being a wicket keeper, specially for noobs with modifieds Oh yes you need tyre warmers essential race kit, once you get them you'll wonder how you ever did without, took a while to fully understand that the best set of tyres for tarmac are brand new out the pack heated and treated, just like F1. I keep promising myself a trip there again but with my 1/5 scale bike, however the months go by and I find I've missed it again for another year.
  6. That's a nice engine with a little car added to the front for detailing
  7. I think I know where I am headed with this now. First fix the suspension - working on it. Then something like this....
  8. Years ago I had a Mardave Mini Stock. They are such simple pans cars but in my view the bodyshells where awesome, I kept rather "low key" eye out for one on ebay but most of them where way over priced until about 6 months ago when one came up with two bodyshells and a buy it now that I could live with. I have not yet done the bodyshells (I often have years between projects lol) but a tough looking mini is a great looking car Look forward to what you come up with.
  9. I’ll go check out the TT-01e stuff. Thanks
  10. So I realised today that my TT-01 is not seeing the full suspension travel, the shocks bottom out before the bumper/chassis hits the ground - about 10mm before! I have raised the ride height so its not a stock issue, but I am sure I am not the only one to do this? Has anyone added shock extensions to the stock shock mounts or are there after market options available. Photos would be great, I have tried searching but nothing is showing up.
  11. These are new, the TT-02s motor broke -installation error. So I re-ran the comparison this evening. Once again very close. However once I get the TGS to handle like the TT-02s the the TGS will def be quicker.
  12. Here are a couple of options, the Lancia is a TT-02s and the Subaru is an old TGS. The TT-02s is pretty stock with just a Tamiya spring set upgrade. The TGS has had a few upgrades, but it ran pretty well in stock setup. All in the TGS running was £130 (69 for car, radio gear and glow start then 60 for a new piston and liner) the TT-02s was new so much more. The TT-02s currently handles much better than the TGS but I am working on it
  13. You where correct! I thought I had built this with care and attention, but no. I had incorrectly meshed the ratio - dont even know how its possible but there you go. Thank you for asking the question! Now with a new motor but the original part worn pinion its like a new car - all quiet and smooth. Need to re-run my previous TT-02s vs TGS vid. Thanks again
  14. Nice, which lego is it? I have a few bikes, three of the little kyosho mini-z moto's, one like yours that is currently unbuilt and a 1/5th scale Nitro bike which started life as a Victory Hawk but is now pretty much a Thunder Tiger Ducati. Do you run this? Bikes are really different to cars, they are like a cross between cars and planes as far as running them goes. When you carve a few nice lines on a bike its a glorious feeling.
  15. Let us know how you get on. Personally I would get it all running well before going to the beach. The engine, fuel tank and muffler form a pressure system and it’s best to get that right and dry before facing the tough dusty beach environment. Make sure you properly oil and secure the air filter as this will be you biggest defence against the sand and dust killing your engine. Once you’ve got confidence in the system go hammer the beach - get some vid :-)
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