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About hedge

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  1. Thank you. I don’t currently have any plans to run it however never say never. I’ve run both an ultra rare Taipan on a modern 1/8th scale track and I’ve blasted around a Blazing Blazer but you know they are pretty poor runners compared to modern RC. On a side note I currently have a project around a vintage Rc Heli trying to get it to perform like a modern heli. But I feel this car is better suited to a shelf for now. There is very little left to do to it, perhaps given time a set of period tires/tyres will turn up and I will replace the set it has. I’ll keep an eye out for a period air filter but that is about all it’s missing. Having said that I guess I could get really ocd and try and find period screws and nuts but I’m ok with modern replacements for now :-)
  2. Just love this old car, when I used to bash around with cars as a kid, these would be in Model Cars magazine but for me they where way beyond my parents Christmas present fund. Fast forward to about 5 years ago, I bought it one night on a US business trip, via eBay, from Australia delivered to the UK. I had not factored in Customs on second hand stuff but in the end to me it was worth every penny. Hope you like it as much as I do.
  3. Simple as^^^^^... There are enough well off 40-50yr olds chasing their childhood memories of their beloved Tamiya XYZ
  4. So I started with the hotshot them Schumacher Cat v1 and then the PB mini mustang. my recal is hazy but I remember a few bits... I started racing the hotshot at my local club, it was 100% stock and was a revolution coming from 2wd cars. As such I immediately started getting good results. The failing was always the front suspension and so very early on that was replaced by hand made front suspension mounts allowing me to put two yellow CVA shocks up front. The next iteration was to put a handmade FRP chassis frame in, this was easy given the mounting points already on the front and rear gearboxes. This stiffened and lightened the car making it even better. I was now doing some regional racing and it performed pretty well probably held back as much by batteries, motors and skill as the actual capability of the car. I was also racing in the Tamiya Cup as a modified Tamiya. Tamiya cup was far easier than the regional stuff. one of the older club mates ran a model shop around St Albans and said he was getting some new Schumacher cars called Cat. I took one! It was such a step up from the handmade hotshot and I struggled. The set up was so complicated and I remember tweaking and tweaking to get the thing to perform. Enter another club mate with a pb mini mustang and we decided to effectively swap cars. at that time the cat was actually working pretty well for the club tracks my main memory was being able to throw it at the track and it just sticking to the ground any way the pb was a breath of fresh air for me, much easier to understand and performed pretty well. in summary the HS was OK but only at club level, the CAT was amazing but you needed to understand the set up very well, the PB was in between them both, much better performer than the HS but not quite as good as the CAT. The CAT and PB both ran belts and the diffs where limited slip. The tyres where so much better than stock Tamiyas and the shocks worked like the old rC10 shocks. Good clearance and much more set up options - beyond just Toe and ride height.
  5. Nice buggy, as a new forum user I suggest you start a new thread so it’s dedicated to converting this landjump to electric. Good luck
  6. Really good thread had me searching for another 3sp but NO.... well not today :-) Those springs will never soften, they are the big failure on this model, you simply can’t get articulation. When big T re-re’d the Toyota aka 58397 they addressed it with configurable spring sets, these do work well and you can tune the articulation. The other thing that gets over looked with these as runners is the battery, that big old 6v did not just add run time but weight - much needed weight over the back axels. If you use a modern Lipo then add lead to make up the missing weight. The only other “I want to run it” comment I would add is that the top 2wd speed is too fast for the trucks handling capability. Low 2wd and high 2wd along with locked hubs are both really good enough for running - I certainly had a lot of fun with my blazer. You should be proud of this thread, it’s a great read with top picks - keep it I am sure your kids or kids kids would like to read it one day.
  7. Yesterday I had the joy of running this at a 1/8th track. I had planned on running my 1/8th Losi 2.0 but fatefully it lost power after a couple of laps so out came the Tamiya. Of course on such a big track the little 540 was underpowered but equally given the handling of the car this was a good thing. Not to say the car handled badly - not at all - but it was at its limit. For those that track race you appreciate the need to set a car up, and fine tune it, where as I just turned up with this 1983 throw back and start doing lap after lap. As you can see from the picture the track is a monster! Jumps, drop off and whoops, non of which are an issue for a modern day 1/8th scale but this little thing needed caution - most of the parts are no longer available. The triangle jump on the right just before the right hander into the banked turn must have been 3-4ft high! The car was a delight to drive, no hairy over steer, no bad rolling tendencies, tracked straight, jumped clean and the damper systems just soaked up the lumps. Must have had a good 40 mins of run time and the only thing that stopped me was the plastic idler gear in the gear box chipped a few teeth, an issue I believe is down to not having a slipper clutch and not controlling my throttle when jumping. Anyway I will be back again and have ordered a set of metal gears from HK so hope they are well made and manage to stand up to the abuse. Along with these and a few tweaks to the suspension I will also be adding the diff back in as the track is quite high grip. Not racing just running
  8. I know not everyone agrees, but I think the SRB range are so nice when they are all shiny after a good buffing restore. Great cars to resto.
  9. Hi, yes you can leave them. if they are not already seized then squirt WD40 down the glow plug hole and remove the rear cover and squirt it in there as well. Then just turn them over by hand for 2-3 mins nothing too strenuous. Now try and get the wd40 out with shaking and kitchen towel - don't want it leaking everywhere. Now add 10-20 drops of 3-1 type oil - 10 in glow plug hole and 10 in the rear. Again turn over for about 2 mins, now this is important, on the last turn you want piston BDC (bottom dead center) - as you turn you will feel resistance and then its real easy, at the point its real easy this is BDC - stops the Piston seizing against the piston bore. The wd40 drives any water out and the oil just lubricates so when you are ready for the challenge of rebuilding they should be ok.
  10. This is a hard one. Cleaning the outside you just need any type of "real" car cleaner that will clean burnt on castor oil I generally use clutch cleaner for everything nitro. Inside the bearings need replacing, there are two, one at the front and one at the back. To remove them you heat in an oven at 100-150 degrees Celcius for 10 mins. The rear should fall out with a sharp bang on wood, the front may need help - use wood dowels no metal screw drivers. Keep repeating the heat cycle till they come free. Now the hard bit. there are 2 typical types of engine, those with a piston ring and those without. I assume the above don't have a piston ring. They work through the piston being shipped very very tight to the piston bore and through the early run in procedure very small amounts of metal are shaved off the bore/piston so you get perfect fit and hence good compression. The good news is unless you are entering this years Neo Race you don't need perfect compression but you do need some. If the piston and bore are badly rusted or damaged then you might not get this running again. So these are the two most important parts to look at. The rest - the Piston Pin, the arm and the shaft can all be cleaned of rust using a green scotch pad (the type your mum uses to clean pots) - don't use this in the piston or bore unless your desperate it will score each and you will lose compression. if you have ringed engines then the bore needs to be completely damage free, get a new piston ring and you are good. if the bore has deep rust or gouges then at best you won't get compression, at worst the ring will catch and snap. In this case get a new piston liner. The carbs - can all be dismantled and cleaned with Clutch cleaner BUT don't do it till you have run them, they are easy to put together wrong! You will however need new rubber seals if the ones I can see are shot. Plugs - get new plugs see manuals below The manuals The good news is OS (the one on the right) keep an archive on their site of old manuals. The bad news is knowing what you have, my guess is OS Max 21, but it could be an 18 or a 25 look for any markings that let you know. You need the manual for the bearing size, the plug and the starting point for the needles. If you have no luck then plug OS LC4 https://www.osengines.com/glowplugs/index.html, Bearings, take the ones you get out to a bearing shop, or send them to an online on and they will supply the correct ones, needles I would want more pictures of the carb to work out what you have. Good luck, your a brave man running the kyosho. here is my shelf queen. Kyosho Land Jump by Paul, on Flickr
  11. This takes me back, but unfortunately with a poor memory I cant remember exact specifics. I started racing after about 6 months of running my Sand Rover. The sand rover was the first proper RC car and it took a lot of pleading to get. My dads mate said his son was also in to the cars and that while he (My dads friend) did not mind going, but it was not really his thing so if I would go with his son it would free up his Sundays again. We raced in an old Church on hard wood floor. My main memories are that there where a number of Sand Scorchers and Rough Riders as well as Sand Rovers, Holiday buggies and a couple of track cars - not sure what type though. The trick with the wood floor was to cover your tyre in bathroom silicon sealant. The track was marked with basic cones and the lap timing was an art performed manually and written on paper. After what seems like about a year in the church the club bought an electronic timer system using transponders. Then around the same time or a few months later it moved to a local school hall and - somehow - bought carpet. However the other big change at that time was the outdoor track. Again my memory is hazy as I felt that the outdoor track came first and then the school, but I know that's not the case due to the cars I raced on the outdoor track - more on that later. So after the Sand Rover came the Grasshopper, this was a Christmas present and I loved it, but at the same time I was still at a club and had my sights set higher. Probably around 14 at the time I started saving like mad for the car that change my race life, the hot shot. now the OC asked what speed controllers where used, well certainly at the very beginning it was wiper arm mechanical jobs but around the hot shot time it was all ESC. Cant remember the name of it but it was big, not Tamiya and ran on a number of FETS. I raced the Hotshot in the Tamiya Cup 85/86 (I think at the time it was called the Tamiya Championship) not sure exact dates as I threw all my trophies away :(. But it did me proud. It was a 4 shock modded chassis version and handled and ran very well indeed. I was close to the top of my club racing and often made the B finals in the Tamiya Cup and believe I finished 17th in the region. That was all well and good in the Tamiya Cup but as others have said back at the club the Associated RC10 had come on the scene and it kicked everyone's butt. I did do OK - C and D finals - in other race events with my Hotshot but it was simply not good enough anymore. Now friends at the club ran a model shop and I was lucky enough to get one of the very first Schumacher cats in the country, it was an absolute dream of a car but for some reason I lusted after the PB mini mustang, a guy at the club had one and we just decided to swap one day. I did not regret it, as the PB was also a great car but that year the cat was where it was at and all the major races seemed to be won by it. This was when I hit 17 and simply could not afford to race rc cars anymore so sold everything and I left the hobby. I revisited the scene a few years back and threw myself into touring cars outdoor and indoor never made it at BRCA level but had good local results, however it took up too much time going away weekend after weekend to race so I stopped again. but who knows what the future may bring?
  12. I know you think you want to go fast, but these things tip real easy and all that lovely detail gets quickly trashed :). The stock leaf springs are really hard and actually benefit from having the big 6v battery weighing them down, so if you do replace the battery I would add the weight back in. My route was to replace the stock leafs with the Tamiya Hilux High Lift spring sets example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-TAMIYA-HIGH-LIFT-FORD-F350-TOYOTA-HILUX-Leaf-Springs-TI6-/141863515622 These are adjustable and make the suspension articulate really quite well - albeit at slower speeds There really is nothing to Painting the Blazer, its just black and then silver for the roof. Its the decals that give it the wow look. back when I restored mine the decals where available on here not sure they are allowed to sell them anymore, but I would have thought someone might have a set? Good luck, they are a nice "big" bit of engineering.
  13. The finished product showning the wheels and tyres, stretched holiday buggy rears and normal scorcher fronts. Just tweaks and tunning of the shocks now, then think about upgrading the motor. Due to the heatwave conditions I added a heat sink and fan to the teu-01, works a treat . Oh and it pops wheelies :-) I think those stretched holiday buggy rears look just like the old RC10 rears... wonder if they got inspiration from them? Oh yeah and needs a driver and some window mods...
  14. That's the same as mine. The 4 smalllmscrew holes are in the same place. Can I ask... Does it have tc stamped underneath in multiple places like your back plate?
  15. Ok so definitely the FRP manufacturers mark and not an aftermarket company. Thanks for getting back. I need to do more digging but think based on the position and number of pre-drilled holesmy chassis is CRP not RCH.
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