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hedge

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Everything posted by hedge

  1. Hey unfortunately no gaskets as standard which is why when you add them you have to take out the extra "mm" by machining the case else your tranny wont work
  2. I highly recommend either of these two tracks West London http://www.wlrc.co.uk/ Aldershot - nr Guildford http://www.aldershotmodelcarclub.net Both National (BRCA) level race tracks just around the corner.
  3. Hi, I used the Kope instructions with the calandra shims and it was quite easy, just take it slow and dont open the whole thing at once. Also I made this little drip tray out of an old touring car shell and spray paint lids. Maybe not the most beautiful looking stand but very effective. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...20&id=20012 Cheers Paul
  4. Don't loose heart there are plenty of people on this site, give it some time and you never know someone may have your answer.
  5. Hey Paul did'nt realise about the lack of effect on the end points thx for that. Paul
  6. Hi Anyone racing at the Chippenham Thrashnal this winter? Details here: http://www.cmcc.org.uk/Events/Thrashnal080...rashnalmain.asp Cheers Paul
  7. It wont make you go faster. If your esc does not have a thermal cut off then it may well stop you from over heating and hence breaking your esc.
  8. Sub trim really comes into its own when you have more than 1 model per transmitter. If you used the manual trim to center the servo then when switching from one car to the next it would (probably) change and hence only 1 would run straight. Using Sub Trim lets you store the particular models set up digitally in the transmitter and hence when you switch models it still runs straight etc....
  9. Hi I ordered mine in from my LHS, I would suggest you try either www.apexmodels.co.uk or www.microtechracing.com. Both are large and should be able to source these for you. I only have the semis the best I have heard are the 21mm Pit Shimizu, they don't come pre-glued, but they are genuine wets. Cheers
  10. hedge

    Droop

    Correct and can be limited by using the droop screws if your chassis has them. The easist way to measure is using a droop guage with your car sat on blocks (same height as 0 on the droop guage) with the shock absorbers detached.
  11. Seems to me that if the details above are confirmed that the site should act to protect its members from future issues and expense.
  12. Hi I think this is very interesting... Keeping it simple ( as I always find this best ) and starting from the top... 1) To start tyres offer the most grip / handling change you say you run pattern tyres well on a dry tarmac surface these offer less grip than slicks and so you should slide. You dont mention additive so I assume you dont have any if you do put full on rears and 1/8 - 1/4 around the front inside tyre. 2) One hole pistons offer the most "pack" and hence you should slide I would recomend 3 hole for most outdoor racing conditions and 2 hole for indoor. You don't mention what shock oil weight you have this makes a big difference 3) I have done some research on the springs and cant seem to find any definate answers. What appears to me is the Yellow are default TRF shock springs and I would assume they are medium, where as the whites could be anything from: 53163 Tamiya On Road Tuned Spring Set 53333 Tamiya Touring Car Tuned Spring Short 53440 Tamiya On Road Tuned Hard Spring Set Now the white in these packs varies from medium to extra hard From your description of how the car is handling I would say its probably the medium short giving you med Standard length on the back and med short on the front which would potentially cause the oversteer. 4) Finally your camber is perfect for what you are after less camber = more grip. Now you could increase the front to 2 deg but I would not bet you will notice much change. In summary your car should slide and lack grip based on the above so therfore I can only assume the springs are not what you think they are change to medium up front med and soft at the rear with say a front 60w - rear 40w oil and a min 2 hole but preferably 3 hole piston. And if you can be bothered remove the rear stabiliser to give even more grip back there hence less up front. Good luck
  13. Hi, By oversteer do you mean that the car is turning too much, i.e. too tightly and its twitchy and hard to drive? What surface are you running on? Is it indoors or outdoor? Cheers
  14. Interesting post... I think I can help with one of your points re-racing. Discharging: The 5 or 6 cells that make up a racing pack are like glasses of water as they are run each glass empties but at different speeds. The speed it empties is related to a number of things not least of which is internal resistance and the connector quality linking one cell to the other. The aim of discharging is to bring each cell down to the same point (level of water in the glass) so that on charging you dont over charge a cell or put too much water in so it vents / spills over. Equally a race spec pack that you find at the worlds or Country level championship will be so well matched that each cell will discharge at the same rate - or near as **** it - and provide punch all the way through the race. Cycling: A NiMh battery pack works best on its second charge it provides much more punch having been charged twice. So again - and its the only way this gets relevant - think of the highest level of competition. A driver does not want to set one tyre on the track unless they can win and if they go out with a pack thats only been charged once then they will loose. So you cycle the pack on a discharger. This is also why people/racers recommend 1 pack per race because the 3rd time you charge the battery looses performance. Peaking: The sooner you can start racing after charging a NiMh battery the faster it will be - the faster it will discharge its current into your motor. Now interestingly most of this info for 19t / pro stock/ 10.5 racing where we run 6 cell or 7.2/7.4v is being put in the history books as LiPo does not adhere to the same rules. It's still very relevant to modified 5 cell but we will see what happens next year regarding that class. I hope this helps you in someway.
  15. Hi if its a Trinity Green machine motor I belive they are 27t Stock motors.
  16. Yes I use tyre warmers, but you should be aware that they only have an effect for the first 1-2 laps, after that the tyres themselves are warm enough so only invest if you are loosing the race in the first 1 or 2 laps. Also I use LRP blue tyre additive, full across the backs and about 1/8th on the fronts just around the inside. Cheers
  17. hedge

    Tyre Inserts

    You see here in lies the issue . One rule of thumb won't suit another persons environment/setup. You need to have a problem to fix before good advice can be given. If you live in a fairly average temperate climate and your runnning on a fairly average grip tarmac then a medium grade rubber with medium grade insert would suit you. But once fitted you are now looking for better... better what ? If you bash I don't know the answer however if you race then you should analise the problems you area having and see if you can find the solution in changing your inserts. Too much grip - twitchy front end may just MAY be solved by going for a harder insert. Large amounts of understeer may be helped by a softer insert. To be honest just go for med or kit standard or buy pre-built. To have the skill and knowledge to ID the insert as needing changing as opposed to - changing rubber tyres, shock oil weight, shock piston, spring weight, shock mounting position top, shock mounting position bottom, track width, wheelbase, camber, toe, droop, chassis flex, roll center heights, Diff tightness, ride height... I think you get the picture - to affect your set up would rank you high enough to not be asking the question. If you just want to have a fun, don't worry about it use what you have. Sorry if the above sounds condescending I don't mean it at all I wish you the best of luck. Paul
  18. I use the 28rs indoors they are a good tyre. Be aware they tear up very easily outdoors though, so use the 32s outdoors. Regarding LiPo have you got some weight to add the LiPo will probably be lighter than your exising batteries. The loss of weight - up to 200g - can adversly affect the handling and I would not want you blaming the tyres Paul
  19. OMG thats the one... I dont know what to say not more than 1 hour on this site and its been found WOW!.
  20. About 23 years ago during the time of Sand Scorchers and Sand Rovers I bought an RC car from a school fete. I would like to know if any one can help ID it please. The hard part is I dont have any pictures only memories so I will try and describe it and see where - if anywhere - we get. 1) Its an on road race car, I believe it was Italian, certainly not British and I dont believe either Japanese or American 2) The scale was either 1/12th or 1/10th but I think 1/10th as I seem to remember it was similar in length to my old sand rover. 3) The chassis was one piece molded white "nylon" I think? 4) Extruded out or stuck on the chassis where places/pots for the reciever speed controller and battery they where like small open tupperware containers each roughly the size of the electronics of the day. 5) The rear axle was hexagonal! 6) No diff just motor direct on wheel 7) Foam tyres I don't remember what the body was, however I remember my grandfather and I ran it down on Bognor Regis promonade and timed it over a set distance and it hit about 25-30mph with what I can only assume was a stock 540 can as I dont think I used much else back then but it may have been a demon motor of some sort. It is also this run that makes me think it was 1/10th scale as it could easily run up and down the promonade with out bottom out / flipping over. Any ideas, I am sure if I saw any pictures I would remember it. Well I dont expect much but if you can help I would be very grateful. Paul
  21. OK this is not me I nicked it from here: http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/archive/inde...p/t-127029.html TA-Mark, Your point about >> If you don't have atleast some tension on the spring the bottom collar falls out when the damper droops past the point where there is tension. The spring also looses it's seating in the bottom collar after a jump with no pre-tension. >> Is handled by Travel limiters see below also see the point about spring clips and spacers Taken from Hobby http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/archive/inde...p/t-127029.html >>> Travel Limiters Travel Limiters are small spacers placed over the shock shafts to limit the travel of the shock absorber. Limiters placed outside the shock body limit the 'up travel' of the shock absorber, while placing spacers inside the shock body limit the down travel (and hence overall length) of the shock absorber. This is not an adjustment commonly used - once set it's usually forgotten. Adding travel limiters to the inside of the shock absorber can be particularly useful on a very smooth track, while a track with big jumps will probably see some drivers adding limiters to the outside of the shock absorber - to prevent 'bottoming out' of the chassis on landing. Again, this is an adjustment not commonly used in the early stages of your racing. Set the shock limiters according to the manufacturers' suggestions and you'll be fairly close. Shock Shafts Shock shafts can sometimes be changed to longer, or shorter units if more, or less overall travel is required. This type of adjustment is used only very rarely or in extreme circumstances on a very small range of cars. Again, the best advice is to consult your local 'pro' driver and see whether they are using longer, or shorter shock shafts. Springs Springs are a very useful adjustment for the suspension of your car. Springs vary in length, and 'stiffness'. A 'stiffer' spring is harder to compress between your fingers than a 'softer' spring. Stiffer springs will tend to hold the car up off the ground more, while softer springs can allow the car to ride lower, and to 'roll' from side to side more. Springs, Jumps and Bumps Springs are often changed to reflect the size and shape of bumps and jumps on a track. If your track is relatively smooth with lots of big jumps, you should try a slightly stiffer spring - to help the car land off jumps without bottoming out. On the other hand, if the track has lots of bumps and ruts, but no real large jumps - you can try a softer spring - to let the suspension soak up the little bumps without effecting the chassis balance too much. Springs and Handling Oddly enough, the springs you choose can have a large impact on handling of your car. Changing to stiffer springs will generally result in lower traction at that end of the car - e.g. putting a stiffer spring on the front of your car will often give you slightly less steering while adding a softer spring to the rear can give more rear grip - to a point. Amazingly, in some conditions, the opposite can be true - stiffer springs can add traction. If you are racing on a high traction track, sometimes adding a stiffer spring can give you more traction by helping the suspension to keep more pressure on the tires. Remember this one if you're on a high traction track. Most importantly remember that when you're choosing springs - there's a compromise between handling and ability to cope with bumps and jumps. You've got to experiment a little to find the right combination for each track! Spring Clips and Spacers Many people adjust the 'compression' or 'pre-load' of their springs by either adding spring clips to the shock body, or moving the 'spring collar' up or down the shock body. This adjustment is only for adjusting the ride height of your car. Adjusting the spring compression does not 'stiffen' or 'soften' your springs. For more discussion of ride height and its effect on handling see (Suspension Geometry). >>> Hope this helps as another view point. Paul
  22. Look a bit like TC member rad22rad alloys stuff http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp...783&id=1892
  23. Can I just say how much I love the information on this site, it really is great and there are very knowledgeable people here... Regards to the above statement and the following critiques I would like to chip in and say I have seen both methods.... I put it down to poorly designed shocks. 1) Poorly designed shock / spring combos such as my Yokomo YR4-II are built such that when the spring is added to the shock it completely fills the available space. I mean the spring is as long as the shock body and shaft fully extended and so if I add spacers at the top of the shock body it has the effect of stiffening the springs - increasing the shock or rebound qualities (more coils less space). Also if I want to lower the ride height all I can do is take the shock apart and add an o'ring beneath the piston to limit the shaft travel and hence lower the cars ride height. 2) Well design shock/spring combos sunch as Associated TC5, Hotbodies Cyclone, RDX, Xray 008 all have the same feature that is the springs are shorter than the shock body and fully extended shaft hence using the shock collar you can add pretension and adjust the ride height without compressing the springs. (Note basic explaination not taking into account your droop settings) Finally there are different spring weights to compliment different surfaces /oil weights / piston configurations. Avery bumpy track may require stiffer damping - Heavier weight oil - and due to the heavier weight oil in order to get the shock to function correctly you will need stiffer springs. Thanks
  24. All the stuff I threw out... I miss my much loved Sand Rover which I threw out many many years ago because it was rubbish at racing. I replaced it with a Grasshopper (which was also thrown away). I miss my Lamborghini Countach again thrown out, my club at the time did not race on road only off road. I miss my PB mini mustang which I sold when I was 17 because I had a real car to run and so my "toys" had to go. Other cars I dont so much miss but would like again are my old Hotshot and schumacher cat which was one of the first in the country. There is also a small place in my heart for the old mardave mini a few mates at the time started a club in an old church hall in St Albans and we raced full contact on foams and hard wood dusty floor - it was great fun, no idea where the mini went but I assume I threw it away. And then not so long ago compared to these early cars back in the early 90s I had a 1/12th associated it was v fast and I could not really control it - it turned so quicky on carpet using some long time banned tyre additive that probably is responsible for global warming. Again no idea where it went probably stayed in my student digs when I moved back home. Wish I had not started this now did not realise how many cars I had had
  25. And of course no indicator holes in the MB/BB nose cone
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