MRD_1982

I use Tyreart pens, you can get them from Halfords and theyre ment for doing the lettering on tyres. It stays on for ages. My Halfords only stocks white and yellow and its about 5 a pen but I do my 1:1 car tyres and my RC ones so a pen will last a while. Stick Tyreart into Ebay and there's all the colours. I go a bit mad with it sometimes

It would but they wouldn't fit my 1/5 scale wheels

Obviously never been to a race meeting then. Large scale cars need hot tyres to grip properly, for the first few laps its like driving on ice then when the temp gets right it starts to grip hard and you can realy give it some. You cant beat powersliding a rwd car. I've got two FG's and I havn't broken anything on either of them yet. It takes balls and skill to put 2000 round a track at 50mph.

Ive got an old '94 Panda/Thundertiger 4wd chassis and it had a center diff with the brake on the diff case. The car was based on the 1/10 Panda buggy of the time but there was no way of altering the diff resistance. On dirt with spikes it probably worked very well but on tarmac with road tyres when you put the brakes on the rear wheels would turn backwards as the fronts turned forwards. It was (and still is) an OK car but now Ive locked the diff. All the later SSR/B/T versions had a solid mid dif. This car probably came from the same era before oil filled centre diffs were popular.

I defo think lipo/brushless is the best way to go, but to use it you need a good chassis to get the best out of it. I had a brushless in one of my stock but ball raced TT01s and it wouldn't track well at speed, it was all over the place, add to that the fact the center driveshaft wobbled so much it kept hitting the chassis and broke. I know these are problems that can be solved with hop up parts but that sort of defeats the object of a cheap fast car. Thats not to say its not a ruddy good laugh while its happening.

My spares got out of control so I bought a load of storage draws from B&Q, 15 a piece and well worth it. I have all my parts, paint, oils, manuals ect. Parts all sorted into makes/models. Very easy to find things now.

I get 90% of my stuff from HK and the weak has made it not really worth doing anymore, but I had my fun when I was getting $2.1/1 so I cant complain now its gone the other way, its all just swings and roundabouts. Its like house prices, eveyone thought it was great when they went up 60% but then when they drop 10% its a disaster.

Thats a 1/10 no mistake, look at the size of the screw heads and yes those are 1/10 wheels/tyres. The new impreza is a shorter car than the old one so it makes sense that theyre using a shorter wheelbase, and notice the amount of short wheelbase bodies being released.

I'm guessing most people would want a 1:1 version of their Sand Scorcher, not the other way round

To stop it flipping I would sugest lowering it and try to get the CG al low as possible, a softer suspension would also help to stop small stones throwing it over. If you want it to grip you need to get some better tyres, just because the tread is beefy don't think they will grip any better. You need to fit softer tyres like the M-Grips or even all out 30 to 25 compound slicks depending on the surface. It also depends on how the car is set up, toe in at the rear, a couple of degree's of camber all round and plenty of castor. Try adding a racing rear wing, it makes so much difference at speed its scary. Ive got a 3.5 with lipo in one of my TC's and it grips like there's no tommorow, very little wheelspin and it won't spin out even if you try, just understeers nicely. Hope this helps .

Ive got the crawler Ax10 and it sill twists like crazy with all the alloy bits. To stop it twisting would require either a different suspension setup or an anti roll bar. Its a good crawler but the tourque twist is a bit extreme. Get the alloy bits by all means but I'm pretty sure they wont solve the problems but they do look cool . CML do all the AX10 bits but they're pricey.

I know, how ace/mad is that. We were running a .25 in the ss and after half a dozen diff gears, some rounded wheel hexes and the big buggy size hex conversion we just about got it bulletproof, then I smashed the crank case so we stuck a .28 in. Within the first couple of runs the cluch was gone, the slipper was gone, one of the (so called) heavy duty SS dogbones had sheared, the spur was melted. So whats gonna happen when the .35 gets put in there? As much as I love the savage its just not gonna be strong enough to abuse.

Lol, you happen to be in luck mate, The clod is one of the most popular trucks for rock crawling ever so there are loads of sites dedicated to them. The super clod is the same as the origional clod so advice on either will be the same. If you search the rock crawling sites they have loads of tutorials on how to mod the clod. Happy clod modding.

The slipperclutch may have burnt out. Hi spec motors give so much more power unless the slipper is realy tight it just spins them. Just a couple of mins spinning can wear them out. I tighten my slipper clutches right up to cope with brushless power. Our HPI Savage .28 will kill a slipper clutch in seconds if its not set tight enough, it just wears the pads and melts the spur.

I ragged the nads off my Toe rag at the local quarry and it was fantastic. I didn't bother with the scale speed thing, I just nailed it over everything and not much would stop it. Its great in snow and mud too. I do like scale off roading but I have other cars for that and crawlers. A couple of months back I stipped it, cleaned it, gave it new bearings, tyres and a new shell and it looks like new, so Ive retired it to the shelf. Ive got a MTW Pajero to finish building to go next to it which will not see any off road action. gotta keep that one mint. Great chassis that loves to be cained and abused.

That sounds like the drivetrain is slipping big time, the motor seems to be spinning up quicky before the car is even moving. Is there a slipper clutch or a ball diff thats not set right?

I get 99% of my parts from Ebay shops, UK and Hong Kong/Japan. Vintage Tamiya Parts (UK) Tonys Tamiya Parts (UK) Model Build (UK) Hobby Japan (Japan) Jasons Store (Japan) Racing Model Shop (Hong Kong) Things are generally cheaper from the east (even with shipping) and if you keep your order below 18 (goods not including shipping) then you're in the clear with customs. But dont discount the UK stores, they have some hard to get bits at very reasonable prices. Between them you should be able to find most of the bits you need.

I have to thread lock EVERY screw on my FG Evo 1/5 scale. Its all alloy so if you forget to use thread lock you know about it when your 2000 car is scraping down the track heading for the wall with the wishbone hanging off. I use the tamiya thread lock. It dries squidgy so it stops the screws coming out on their own but if you need to you can still get them out without stripping the head.

depending on your buget go for an ansmann 12v charger, HERE, its 35 but it does everything you could ever need. + up to 5000 mA charging current + 1-14 NiCd/NiMH cells + 1-5 Li-Po/Li-ION cells + 1-6 Pb cells My mates got one and its great. They do a 12 and 240v version too HERE but its 48.

Front body posts from most HPI cars are the type with a screw base, but you need to buy the entire parts tree and the rears will be no good to you.

Cheers, I would have had it all black if I could find a black tub but theyre like hens teeth. The speedo is a Tamiya TEU-103BK its about 21+P&P. Tamiya says it will take Sport tuned motors and its held up with no problems at all, even with the extra current of the lipo. This is one of five TA03's with another one one the way. I just cant get enough of em.

Ive heard great things about HongNor buggys/truggys. The guy at my local HS raves about them, says theyre very tough. I was after a Hyper7 truggy and two different shop owners told me to get a HongNor.

I run the belt because that the rear grips alot more than the front, so without the belt the rear motor was doing more work and getting hotter, also the fronts with less grip were spinning up and causing understeer. I stuck the belt back on and everything evened itself out, the motors are equal teperature and it doesn't understeer as much. The car weighs more with having two motors but the lipo is half the weight so fully loaded its not much heavier than a std Ta03 but with twice the power. Such an easy mod to do aswell.

I'm getting about 10-15 mins from a 3300 lipo pack but without having a proper lipo cutoff I usually just run it for 10 mins, altho when I put it back on charge it says its still half full. I may yet stick my two 3.5 brushless systems in it just for the laugh.

This was shown in another thread but now I have a (bad quality) video to give an idea of the performance gain of having two motors. This car has two sport tuned motors and a standard Tamiya twin motor ESC with 23t pinions. The setup cost about 50 which is still 70 cheaper than a cheap brushless system so its quite good value. The Video: It's still got plenty of pull so I may gear it up, maybe 25t or 26t.