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TA-Mark

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About TA-Mark

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  • Birthday 05/16/1968

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  • Location
    Outback - Australia
  • Interests
    Radio Control, Slotcars, Computers, Cars and Driving all 4 !!

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  1. Here's a list of the parts in my showroom. Most of the suspension is the same as TA01 (Except dogbones, arms, upper links, steering links). I would recommend not using alloy suspension arms. Hit anything and it will tear the mounts off the gearbox instead of just tear up a cheap plastic arm. Do replace the heavy steel screw that holds the two halves of the arms together with lighter aluminium screws. Asiatees.com will have just about everything you need in their TA01 or TA02 selections. (Just rememeber the front steering knuckles are TA01, and not TA02, the rest is the same). Easiest way to get a FRP chassis set is to buy a 'fix-er-upper' Top Force from ebay and raid it for parts (not to mention it's the cheapest way). There's also a really good build thread on the forum by djmcnz if you search for it.
  2. NUTY PIGY (R minus the tail). RUN IT GIT Y I RUN
  3. If it doesn't steer straight, you don't get to that 60km/h. Instead you get 'bounce once, bounce twice and then cartwheels'. :lol:
  4. When your Grasshopper and Lunchbox does 35mph+ (60km/h) it needs to be able to go in a straight line
  5. Do you have the motor mount up the right way? It makes a difference. 24:66 (6.7:1 FDR) is pretty tall gearing. 27 turn brushed, 17.5 turn brushless gearing.
  6. Transmitter sub-trims are designed with the Tamiya OCD in mind. You get a perfect zero on the main trim everytime.
  7. 17.5T or 18.5T brushless and forget about ever needing to rebuild it. About the same speed as 27 turn brushed motor (or a touch slower) without the hassles.
  8. Stock doesn't mean they got it right. On one of my boats I needed to drop the screw size by 3mm diameter before it was right. The battery was litterally smoking after it's first test run with the supplied screw. What is unexpected to the boating beginner is that it actually goes quicker through the water with the right size screw as the motor can rev out to it's comfort zone. Not to mention better runtimes, and less strain on the ESC and battery. It's much the same as getting the right FDR in a car when you fit a hotter motor. I don't think you'd get banned for talking about RC on a RC forum. Maybe the thread should have been in 'electrical' or 'other makes' and not in 'general' though. A mod will move it if it's a problem I'm sure. Twinset (and the other mods) are pretty good to us users.
  9. If your packs are getting overly hot in a boat change to one size smaller diameter water screw (reduces load).
  10. I personally have had little success with any of the Venom Racing products. Their motors are pure junk. Their battery packs are poor, with the exception of their Ni-Cd 1800mAh packs which have all been good and still going after many years. The Ni-MH packs of theirs I bought didn't even last out 100 cycles before one or more cells in the pack failed. About 12min runtime from their Ni-Cd 1800mAh packs with kit motors and kit supplied ESCs in 4WD buggys. I bought them for my kids and for the roto-starter for the HPI nitros. The Intellect Ni-MH packs I bought were good, but they couldn't handle the discharge rates required for the MambaMax systems I'm using in most cars. Can't comment on the other brands you mentioned.
  11. All I see available is these Yeah Racing ones (RCMart). The 3Racing website lists nothing anymore for the TA01/02/03/DF01.
  12. I was saying the Ballistic tyres are 2.2", not the Astute wheels. Given that the Astute front tyres are the same part number as the Bear Hawk's fronts, the Bear Hawk's front wheels are 2.0". Try these Shumacher's or these for a fit. These from CRP.
  13. Can't say I've seen a 1.9" 2WD front wheel on a buggy before. 1.55" and 1.75" (SRBs and vintage Tamiya), 2.0", 2.16" (Tamiya) or 2.2". I read on other forums guys are using these for racing on the Associated buggys, but I can't find anywhere that gives a dimension. My guess would be 2.2".
  14. "Candy" paint is where you spray on a base colour (usually much darker than the finish colour or even black), then overcoat that with a colour tinted clear until the desired brightness is reached. Then the flake is applied to the top of that in crystal clear coats. Then on top of that you need enough coats of clear to cover all those bumps the flake made. Trying to do this with cans will be nigh on impossible. Possibly to do it with Tamiya colour, flat black (TS-6) or Maroon (TS-11), then over that clear red (TS-74), then the flake on that, then many coats of clear (TS-13). (EDIT... Oops didn't see the candy green, most people go red. It's TS-6 black or TS-2 for dark green, then I don't see the X-25 in a spray. Tamiya's 'Candy Lime Green' TS-52 doesn't look very 'candy' to me at all when you compare it to traditional candy applications). I have done a similar paint finish on my 1:1 car. Started with the factory colour as the base colour (an icky grey/green), then over that I used gold pearl (made the green more goldish), then over that I put holographic metal flakes, then over that about 30 coats of clear to get it flat again. 30 coats is actually 10 sprays (3 dusting coats for each spray), and sanding between each spray. This was all using 2K (2-pack) which will dry quickly overnight with high build qualities (without a booth) and can be sanded the next day.
  15. What the alloy part does is reduce the wear rate in the holes for the bent wire ackerman link. It's the holes becoming enlarged that causes the slop between the bell cranks. To fit a more sturdy ackerman link in there you need to remove the bracing on the plastic tub, which greatly reduces it's strength to the point that a bad jump will snap off the front gearbox (BTDT).
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