Scorchio

Hmm, worrying. Just seen it myself. I mentioned in a build thread that Allcad 310 has "This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer birth defects or other reproductive harm" written on the label, which is probably why you can't buy it here in the UK. It smells considerably worse / more toxic than TS spray, and thats without propellant. Have Tamiya cans just fallen under the "safety standards" radar for many years in many countries, due to relatively low demand compared to car / furniture spray paints found in hardware stores? I don't see myself panic buying in the future though (ok maybe a couple of colours perhaps).

Thanks Jonboy! & no problem. My compressor is set to between 18 & 20 psi and I'm generally around 2/3 trigger, I've sprayed both neat and with 50/50 isopropanol mix and results seem much the same. You have to hit what your spraying hard and fast, you literally have to ignore the overspray warnings in your head and just keep spraying past the flat aluminium phase until you see chrome appear then move on. Then I give it 4-5 days drying before Alclad ALC-310. Again straight out of the bottle, don't do a mist coat, go straight into wet coat but this time listen to the over spray warnings in your head. On smaller parts I think I'll just brush it on in future, as the self levelling qualities of Molotow are quite incredible. Hope that helps!

No idea to be honest, not too big on chemistry myself, but bottle says it contains "Mineral Spirits & Alcohol Solvents" so we could probably rule out water based.

My personal thoughts are, its expensive, quite volatile and generally a bit of a pain, long drying times, but I quite like it and will be perhaps more selective about what I use it on in future. Just realised theres 20 years between these 2 builds

At last! The Alclad lacquer is the one to use with Molotow Chrome, to be precise....... Alclad II Lacquer - Gloss Klear Kote ALC-310. I just noticed theres a British flag on the label, so why cant I buy it in the UK? Also theres a warning on the label that says "This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer birth defects or other reproductive harm" Thankfully I live in the UK, but won't be drinking it. Full on double filter mask for spraying this devil juice. The are a couple of lower misty bits where I've under sprayed, but looks great from the angle you see when its on the car.

Now sanded out masking bleeds on the sides and straightened out a couple of "wonky" mask lines with a coat of yellow from the airbrush. Now I have this "de gassing" of the paint before airbrushing sorted, it really flows well without any thinning.

While body drying I've restored the number / licence plates. Had to repair front one as someone has previously prized it from a body shell (not my one) and left a chunk of it behind. Filled with epoxy putty and filed then sanded. Thankfully more missing from rear than front. Then blocked the yellow letters out, then on with blue and wipe away excess from letters with fine cotton but & solvent. Leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Then 1200 wet and dry rub down over a spatular blade. Then final yellow touches to balance / fix letters. Harder on rear plate as its been heated and curved a bit which meant a couple of bits got over rubbed. Finally photo copy ReRe decals, and cut out October and CA 10 stickers for front plate. Found a pic of the plate with a chunk out of it from the listing.

A most productive Sunday afternoon! HERE WE GO!!!!! Masking done by lunchtime. Bajan Baja? Yellow pre coat to seal up mask. 3 red coats excluding first dust over coat. Mask off, so gratifying. A couple of small leaks behind front wheel arches and around door hinges but nothing that cant be fixed. Oh and left a mark on the bonnet (hood) from over pressing mask with finger nail, again fixable. Leaving for a long dry now. Does anybody have any tips for removing Tamiya masking tape sticky residue? I have a few very sticky spots.

Its clear, its a long wait for it, but so many clear coat brands destroy liquid chrome.

So, E-7 Color 5-02 chrome sealer brings up the Molotow as dulled Aluminium. Going to re chrome, ordered Alclad II ALC-310 from the states with cheap postage so it should be here early September. Molotow should be very dry by then. Going to try 50/50 isopropanol mix I've seen used online. BTW. This is a ReRe exhaust and wipers I'm testing this on. I have originals but cant find the stinger pipe anywhere. An age old problem I understand

Sadly Molotow never dries to durability, I've had it on my SRB Manx for a year now and it dulls when touched. Clear coat results vary, and it will dull a bit so I'm going to try E-7 Color 5-02 chrome sealer on this, if that looks bad I'll have to splash out on the Alclad ALC-310 which is pretty hard to find in UK.

At last! Final yellow coat on, really happy with result Also this is how Molotow Chrome Pens look when you empty them into an airbrush, no thinners or flow improver just straight through the brush. I never understood why wipers and exhaust were never on the chrome sprue.

Quick update, sanded back and further than I did originally. one coat of primer on and looking good. One more coat and I'll be back to where I was on Tuesday morning!

Today = Scorchio............Nil points. Don't store decanted Tamiya rattle can paint in doser bottles, one twist of that little cap and it goes off like a champagne bottle, behold the bloodbath and nose cone ruined. Something remains in the paint and fizzes like a fizzy drink when agitated. "Thats a lot of surface area to cover with a .35 needle" (guggles. 2024 see above). Absolutely correct sir! I was spraying from so far back and adding so much flow improver (retarder) and barely staining the primer. I gave up, and reached for the unbranded Chinese 0.5 suction feed airbrush that came with my compressor (worst move ever). Made my pressure adjustment on test piece, much better! Then not a few seconds in it turns into a machine gun, clear tip dry, and its fine, then boom! it just blasted blobs everywhere. It's now in the bin. I now have the finish of a supermarket car park diorama. So......... Rattle cans looking very much like my future right now (after some more sanding, I'll spare you progress shots of that), not paying out for another needle and nozzle for the Iwata as they only go up to 0.4 for my model, and not buying another airbrush. I'll still airbrush driver and parts with acrylics I'm more used to spraying.