stamatis

Based on the RC4WD trailer, repainted, combined with tractor truck parts (leaf springs, oil shocks), alloy wheels, all metal. Asking 80,00 euros, shipped worldwide. PP gift. Thanks, Stamatis

Well, ebay is full of these, for single or dual motors. As I said I had this for 10 minutes under full throttle and didnt even got warm... Seems a very good choise for 10-15 euros and you and it is something you dont worry much if it breaks in the future... You can search ebay for "320A esc V2" Cheers, Stamatis

So I took my heavy Wild Dagger with 2 x 550 on 14.4V Kyosho motors if for a long test today and this esc works flawlessly. Doesnt even get warm, and can handle easily the 14.4V even after a 10 minute full throttle! Really amazing performance for such a cheap esc! Of course time will tell, but first impression is 110% positive! But cant say the same about the TLT1 tires ;-)

This dual motor at $22.00 or even less, seems a real nice option for dual motor setups. What I cant find and I would like some help is how many turns it can handle and also if it can be used on 14.4V with 550 motors? Cheers, Stamatis

Thanks! So please remind which ones have same efficiency in both forward and reverse rotating? 53689? 7435039? 7435097?

Thank you for this useful info :-) I just tried it.... But it also made no difference... Btw, Sport tuned black motors, can the run with same efficiency in reverse? (Clod, Wild daggers etc...)

I didnt know that, I will try it, thanks... But leds functions as it should be, also if you accelerate very very slow, no problem. ANything else causes this problem.

Motors are genuine hpi550, so is the esc (gt309). I have this setup for 7 years now. Thought I rarelly use it, I never had any issues... Then suddenly this occured. With 27am, 40am,40 fm, 2.4 receiver, with or without motors connected, both forward and reverse. Batteries fully charged, brand new... Seems like a n esc malfunction, like not reading signal from a point and beyond it.

Radio is the classic FlySky from ebay. A simple not complicated reliable radio. Do esc get old and break down?

Ιt is not an overpower underpower issue... Same happens with no motors connected. To me the esc seems to to read receiver's signals prom a point and beyond that... It is auto calibrated. Also it does so with 27am, 40am, 40fm and 2.4. So esc is faulty...

deans, not yet. The esc and motors are from e savage both. Hpi GT309 is the esc, motors are 550 type... !@#$%*, I am selling this car if anyone wants it...

A brand new fully charged pair of Vapex... Wasted money if the whole thing doesnt work... And things are now even worst... Maybe the esc for some reason when current and voltage becomes higher stops? I suspect that but I have no idea from electronics and how it works...

Hi, Have to revive this: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=72354 I got some new packs, again tried an 27, a 40, a 2.4 receiver etc but I have the same issue. Pull the trigger, motors spin once maybe twice and then esc seems to be getting in failsafe mode... Quite convinced it is the esc that causes that, but first it worked fine, then stayed on shelf for 3 years then this...

...and having in mind that RC4WD has just released some wheels and tires that seem to have been designed especially for this little beauty, plus the fact that these gearboxes are bulletproof...

Thank you guys for all this useful info :-) Time to change my setup a little bit ;-) Cheers, Stam.

Thanks for your replies guys. The chassis is an old one bought from Germany about 5 years ago, could be more. Dont think he still makes them. The problem occures with 27am, 40fm, 2.4 flysky of futaba. I tried every combination available... So it is not a receiver issue probably. The batteries are quite old and some years ago, same setup, everything was perfect... So maybe this could be?

Hi all, Had some free time lately and decided to narrow my favorite alloy WD and use some TLT wheels for a better look... link I have a 14.4V setup with HPI e-Savage esc and 550 motors. The problem is that when I suddently go to full throttle, it justs stops, and has hiccups, this happens both on forward and reverse. When accelerating slowly, no problem at all, and enough power until top speed is reached. It is not a matter of radio, as it does so with every available receiver I got. I suspect batteries and instant current draw, but not sure... What do you think? Thanks, Stam.

GF-01, I am sure "G" stands for "GEARS". A 4x4 Willy is now closer than ever :-) Even wide versions with Wild Dagger arms, shock towers, 4" dampers etc... Btw more pictures now available on www.tamiyablog.com

Please let me also add to the above: Tamiya TEU-103BK BEC : 6V/1A Tamiya TEU-106BK BEC 6V/2A Tamiya #45063 cooling fan for BLE-02S, TEU-104BK, TEU-105BK and TEU-106BK ESC. Tamiya mentions: Attaching this cooling fan unit to your ESC will help to slow the overheating process and ensure not only longer running times but also allow a wider range of setting options that would otherwise be unavailable since it keeps the temperature in lower levels.So a lower turn motor can be used as the ESC will not overheat. Tamiya item #45051 BEC regulator. Tamiya mentions: The TRO-01 BEC system reduces the input voltage to throttles and steering servo of 7.2 V (voltage standard travel battery) to 6 V This is necessary if the receiver / control knob has no BEC-Module/System and the controller / servo does not tolerate 7.2 V input voltage The reduced voltage, electronic speed control from Tamiya (TEU-101BK, TEU-104BK, mechanical speed control) and other regulators also be used with a receiver without BEC-Modul/System (affects some 2.4 GHz RC systems) So you can use almost any receiver and servo available on the market with TEU-101 and TEU-104. On the other hand, for some reason they discontinued this product... Hope these are useful... Stamatis

Thank you all for your advice. I temporarelly followed the easy way. Since both are on the self, removed oil and cleaned them. Later, before summer I will refill with less oil and completelly by the book. Only 5 out of 8 leak, so there must be a tricky right way to do it. Stamatis

So now is this groove inside the cylinder causing linking? And why is this groove? Also the red o-ring's diameter, even if compressed seems too small to seal oil inside damper. What do you think? I think there is something wrong here!

Now this complicates things because actually, no sun, no hear, and oxygen - not much left in a big city... I am pretty sure I used the tamiya yellowish oil kit comes with... Emmm, did I? Well, I think, I will remove oil and use fuel tubes as Waterbok suggests to be sure... Thanks Stamatis

Hi everyone, Ok, I know of oil linking damper issues on re-re Sand Scorchers and Buggy champs but is damper oil melting rubber parts? After two years on the self, I noticed today that the damper rubber bushings have become something like a soft black sticky compound. I will get a new set, but what do you suggest appart from stopping dampers from linking? Also the damper rubber on/off switch cover cracked in just two years like 20 years have passed by... Could it be a poor quality rubber parts of early re-re models or something else I didnt do right? Any suggestions? Cheers, Stamatis

Hi, Due to financial reasons, I am selling my HPI nitro RS4 3 EVO, my "blink" display model. Specials: -All parts upgraded with alloy ones, -Many stock parts upgraded, -Model was only tested once, comes with everything needed to run (rotostart, charger, plug igniter, etc), -Comes with a new spare engine (HPI T15), a second NIB painted body, spare chassis and a box full of spares, both alloy and plastic parts (arms, body posts etc), -Extra battery, -Extra sets of Topcad alloy wheels, and many more... Plenty of hi-res pics available in this link Click to see them full size. If you are interested, let me know... Stam.

Hi everybody, I am selling my three M-Chassis cars, all in mint condition: -Tamiya M04 VW Beetle, €160,00 or €130,00 without the esc (heat sink, ball bearings, alu servo stays, alloy uprights), -Tamiya M05 Suzuki Swift, €180,00 (ball bearings, oil shocks, inox screws, cvds, super stock TZ motor,TEU-302BK), -Tamiya M05 Fiat Abarth, €250,00 or €210,00 without motor and esc (with ball bearings, all available by Tamiya Hop-Up parts, and many more). All in perfect condition, without a scratch. Bodies are Tamiya factory painted. All come without battery and radio. This is the link to detailed pics Shipping is at cost, PP gift. Thanks for looking, Stamatis