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Everything posted by TenzoR

  1. 1F:1F for the front? that seems overly wide ???
  2. I didn't cave fast enough so the steering kits are out of stock.... that should hold me from ordering ...
  3. I would be interesting in those too (if you don't me from tagging along Saito2)
  4. This looks like a fun project https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/regulator-chassis-conversion-kit-fits-clod-buster
  5. Here's a pretty decent starting setup from TamiyaUSA's Jimmy Wright If all else fail, the basic setup from the manual will be good. Just make sure you ask around the track and see what tires are most people using, as tire makes all the difference. Are you using IFS or Stand-up shocks?
  6. I've attached the two forms I created while I was racing. Fill it out and show us how the car is currently setup. tb03d_form_blank.pdf tb03_form.pdf
  7. were you able to resolve torque twist?
  8. https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-tb03d-aluminum-upright/ this should be the right "era" for rear upright for the TRF416
  9. The question is buy it now and deal with an extra $500 bill for all the blue bling or wait for the PRO/R version and spend a fraction less on all the blue bling ... decisions ... decisions ... Also, curious to see how adjustable are the top wishbones for tunability
  10. FYI I did a similar rebuild a couple years back. You can order basically all the parts from your Tamiya disbributor as Tamiya Japan still produces them in small batches. The only thing that wasn't available were the hop-ups (which are LHS item only, not distributors). Although I did not order the chassis or rods but I ended up ordering all new plastic part trees, new ball nuts/studs. Basically I ended up with a new TXT-1
  11. Sorry, I am mistaken, it's a TRF414M not the original TRF414. Sorry for the confusion. Here's a pic with my other TRF414M SSG project. All I am missing is a blue steering arms and matching steering post (and probably some other misc parts) then I can move the silver set over from the race car to the display chassis.
  12. I have yet to race it but I did prepped a race ready TRF414 with TB04 gear diffs, custom trf419 front/rear carbon damper stays (from fibre-lyte), TRF418 style front/rear arms, hubs, knuckles, DCJ on front, and etc. I just haven't had the time to try it out.
  13. I've used buyee.jp before. It's definitely not the cheapest route but if you are desparate...
  14. there's a couple on ebay else you can try the japanese auction sites
  15. The best analogy that I can come up with is bicycle gears, some comes with 18 gears. 21 gears. 24 gears. The more gears you have, the more choices you have to maximize your energy on the road you are on. If you can't notice these changes, maybe perhaps they are wasteful addition
  16. Depends on how you value tuning. Being able to adjust roll centers is invaluable when you are trying to maximize your performance during a race. Now, if you are just bashing around or you can't drive around a track without crashing into something or someone, you have bigger issues to overcome. The difference between the high performance chassis vs. the plastic chassis is the tune-ability and their ability to keep the adjustment throughout a race. The bling factor also makes it appealing to some
  17. 2x Traxxas 5458X Differentinal and Transmission Yokes (1 Pair) 2x Traxxas 5650 Center Half Shaft (1 Set) optional 2x Traxxas 5459 Rubber Driveshaft Boots (2-Pack) Everything should just fit except you'll need to dremel the transmission casing just enough so the beefier parts fits.
  18. if you open up the TA05 IFS manual where it shows the dampers being attached. the side bar should have a small description that compare a normal TA05 and TA05 IFS and how spacers added to the ball head is equivalent to changing damper positions.
  19. Generally the heavier vehicle with better traction will be better to push the snow. I would say Blizzard as the name suggested. Problem with MT is the tires and the lack of grip on packed ice/snow, unless you are attaching chains.
  20. For show car, alloy is fine but if you were to drive them, the alloy will just transfer the force to the next weakest link or even worst, bent.
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