mb_c11

Today I ran my Group C. It ran a lot better than last time, but still suffered from too much play in the servo saver. Turns were slippery. Straights somewhat ballistic. Was able to overtake a touring car on the main straight due to having a higher top speed with the stock 540 Sport Tuned that the TC had with a modified. The car is about as fast as modified TCs on the straights, but suffers in the turns. I either overshoot them, or have so much oversteer I spin or run into the grass at the inside of the turn . Next time I'll try treated tires at the rear.

I've got a few Kimbrough units on order, but it will still take about a week before I get them. I'll check the assembly of the hi-torque servo saver (springs), and will see how the car drives in two days time.

I can move the front half of the servo saver about half a mm to the left and right from the middle position when the servo saver is attached to the servo. This being on a car with very direct steering, this means that the car will not run straight after turns because the servo will have returned to neutral, but the servo saver will not have done so. This wouldn't be a problem on a parking lot racer, but I'd like to be able to drive on a race track without having to correct the car on the straights all the time.

So, yesterday I bought a new servo saver for my Tamiya group C: a black high torque servo saver (spare part #1000). After installing it this afternoon I am a bit bummed. I bought the thing to fix a problem involving a lot of play in the original servo saver, but... There's still play in the high torque servo saver. I've checked if I assembled it correctly, and if I used the right screw to attach it to the servo (a new Futaba S3003 servo), and it's all right. The play is clearly in the servo saver itself. Now I have a white high torque servo saver which I bought a few years ago that's installed on my buggy, and that one has no such play. Has anyone else observed something similar? Are some of Tamiya's older molds wearing out causing fit problems with recently produced parts?

Bought a new charger (Graupner Ultramat 15), servo saver, charger lead, and some velcro tape. Ordered a Top Force undercowl. Used new charger to charge an old racing pack that I thought to be dead to 1.5 the capacity written on the label

Today I: - Went to a local club, tried out my Mercedes C11 that has been sitting on a shelf at my home for like 12 years, discovered it had absolutely awful steering, managed to complete 2 laps or so without running it into the grass, discovered my old delta peak charger is FUBAR (doesn't really charge packs), and went home again. - Sorted out the steering problem, checked the steering for binding, freed things up a bit, swapped the servo (possible culprit #1), and discovered there was a massive amount of play in the servo-saver (possible culprit #2). So tomorrow I'll go to the hobby shop to get a new charger and a new servo saver.

Could be an interference issue? Try moving the receiver and ESC around to see if the problems get less...

You can get them from other manufacturers that make metric screws. There are lots of sets for specific cars on Ebay, and many other manufacturers make packs containing only one size of screws.

TA01 with long suspension arms and different shock towers. As for the difference between the TA01 and 02, I think the 02 has a shorter bathtub. For hop ups, see: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31350 You don't need all of them, but some might be a good idea. Here's the bare minimum that I think is needed: - full ball bearings (there's cheap aftermarket sets) - Aluminium motor mount (tamiya's one is very nice, but hard to get) - steel prop shaft (Tamiya makes one, but aftermarket ones seem to be better) - aluminium wheel hexes (the plastic ones melt/change shape when they get hot)

Of course you can! Whether the paint will stay on or not react with the lexan paint you're probably going to apply over it is something else... It is quite likely that the paint will chip off if the body gets hit. Applying lexan paint over it will not prevent this, as the lexan paint will chip off together with the acrylic paint. I've also noticed (on the one shell where I used acrylic paint) that the lexan paint bubbles when it comes in contact with acrylic paint... You're better off picking up a few bottles of Tamiya polycarbonate (=lexan) paint for the details. These have numbers that start with 'PC'.

Yes, but only with aftermarket conversion sets that usually are pretty complicated (and hard to get).

I've had items from the UK take up to 3 weeks before showing up on my doorstep (UK-Netherlands). Also, Priority Mail doesn't always equal Air Mail, and some sellers say they'll send stuff by Air Mail, and send it by standard mail instead - especially if the shipping quote they gave you is too low.

In that case it could even have been the acute water-cooling that did it

That sounds like way too much, IMHO. There's places where you can still get the F201 chassis-only kit for 1/4 of that price...

You've also got the plastic part that is needed to mount the front shock tower to the front gearbox? As for shocks, if you want to stay on the Tamiya side of things, you can choose from: - CVA short shocks (yellow), like on the Manta Ray. - CVA II short shocks (black). - Short Hi-Cap dampers - option number 53037. Also get the spring set that is sold separately. - Sleeved dampers - option number 53125. Oh, and don't do like me and get some TGM-04 optional dampers in the hope you can get them to fit - they are too long...

If this is a Tamiya RS540 'Sport-Tuned' (black or greenish black can, with a black label with gold lettering reading 'Sport Tuned'), then yes, it will be faster than the stock motor. However, maintenance is limited to blasting it with motor spray and oiling the bushings. Once the brushes are finished, you can throw away the motor. You'd be better off buying a rebuildable stock or a mild modified motor, IMHO. Should be around the same price or a bit more expensive.

Manta Ray arms should fit, but they'll probably stick out of the shell (IIRC the Manta Ray and related cars are 25-30cm wide). Manta Ray shocks are about 80-85 mm long at the front and 90-95 mm at the back (they're 'short' Tamiya shocks, not the 'mini' shocks that are probably used on your TA01/02). The shock towers will fit the chassis, but might be too high for the body. You may want to mount the body higher to accomodate for the increased suspension travel. The body may still need modification. Another problem is that you can't mount the TA01/02 front body mounts to the Manta Ray front shock tower. Top Force (Evo) parts should also fit.

Is it possible to attach modern 1/12 pan car wheels to a RM-5 Porsche 956 chassis? I recently acquired one, and only have one set of wheels with cracked tires. I reckon I could fit F-1 wheels at the front, but the rear end looks like it has differently sized hexxes - they're smaller than those on a Tamiya F-1...

Surely any servo for 1/12 cars fits?

Hitting a wall in our garden with my Blazing Star at full throttle. Trashed the front shock tower (broken in two), bent some screws, damaged both front shocks so they would leak a bit (still need to replace 'em), damaged the front gear case, cracked a rim, and caused some big scratches to one side of the front suspension. Thankfully that was with the stock 540... The reason for it: not looking well and driving the car INTO the wall instead of along it. Another memorable one was when one of the rear wheels came off after running on gravel in hot weather. The stock plastic wheel hexxes got so hot they changed shape and pushed off the wheel and wheel nut

In my country it works differently. I need to transfer money from my bank account to my Paypal account, and then I can pay people with the money on my bank account. The problem is that Paypal asks me for a credit card if I follow the subscription link from Tamiyaclub. Now I suspect that Tamiyaclub only accepts payments from verified members. However, getting verified without a credit card is impossible in some countries, like mine (the Netherlands). You can send them a copy of an ID and a bank account paper, and then you'll be semi-verified ( I've done that), but it doesn't make the account to show up as 'verified' to others. However, if I were to pull a previously made Paypal payment for no reason, and the seller would complain, Paypal can track me. Until now I've been able to pay Ebay sellers who would only accept credit card-backed Paypal accounts without any problem, but apparently it doesn't work the same way for non-Ebay sellers. So I suspect I'm stuck.

When I try to subscribe to the site using the Paypal link, I am told by Paypal I need to enter details about a credit card. My Paypal account is hooked up to my bank account, as I don't own a credit card. My Paypal account is a Premier account. Can I still subscribe?

Seeing the scammer has a Western Union office near him, tell him to pay by Western Union (no risk, very safe...for the seller). I bet he won't even reply. With Western Union, it's very hard to get your money back as a buyer. It only works if the seller is honest, for instance.