mb_c11

I dunno, brushed ESCs, motors, and NiCads are perferctly fine for any vintage car that can't handle a brushless and lipo... So why keep them out of a car?

The GPM alloy C-hubs for TA02 will definitely fit a Top Force. Asiatees is safe to order from; often the parts arrive quite quickly (less than 2 weeks from Hong Kong to the Netherlands in my case).

That bodyshell is shaped like a cardboard box that someone stepped on

I think there's 30mm wide touring car wheels available. Of course, you can also use narrow front wheels to get the same effect.

Asiatees.com (GPM) sell alloy TA02 knuckles, amongst others. Most suspension parts are the same for TA02 and FF01 (except the shock towers!)

The TA01 buggies were first. So the gearboxes are designed with large buggy wheels in mind.

Putting the battery further to the front will increase oversteer and decrease rear traction. Are you sure it's oversteer and you aren't loosing the rear (which is common on RWD cars)? Wider rear tires are a good idea. Also try to have the car sitting lower at the back than at the front.

Collected my first EZRun (35A, 9T motor) from the post office, and installed it in my TA03F Pro. Was a bit annoyed that the motor wires were about 2 cm too short to attach the ESC to the lower deck (but now I have room for something that uses my radio system's 3rd channel - but what?). Now to get a body and complete the car.

Shouldn't you use the smaller TA-03R front gearbox, or does the body that you have in mind fit over a TA-03F rear gearbox in the front?

I don't see why I am bothering with this, but: You could email them to ask whether and when they expect to get in more stock. Insulting other people won't gain you cookie points, by the way. Because some people might need to buy the stickers because they bought a second-hand body that has misapplied stickers or is lacking them, or they damaged the stickers on their own body. Selling stickers and body accessories separatedly is a service that is useful for people who don't want to buy a complete bodyset each time they need to fix up a body. Regarding the pictures: like 99% of other webstores. Regarding what they have in stock or not and what is discontinued, an explanation was offered earlier in the thread, but apparently you didn't read it. Yeah, please go to HPI, and soon discover you will have exactly the same issues with them. Have you considered that a less confrontational attitude might actually get you further? Flaming people just because of a petty reason like this one, and then insulting others who try to help you is not going to help you. Perhaps it's time for another hobby, if you get worked up this badly about parts not being in stock or being discontinued.

A 8.4V battery won't fit in the tub. It will be too long for the battery mount. Getting the TA01/Top Force FRP chassis won't help either, because the chassis is simply too narrow. The only batteries that fit are 7.2V ones. Useful options are: - alloy motor mount (16-21T, GPM or Tamiya) - alloy shocks (if Tamiya: Hicaps, Sleeved dampers, or DF-03 TRF shock set) - alloy or steel center shaft

The group C tires are larger than most F1 tires, except those that fitted on the F1 dish wheel set front wheels and the F103L Indy car wheels (but those tires are the same part numbers as the group c tires). So group C tires will fit all of the group C rims + the front rims of the F1 dish wheel set + the F103L Indy car rims. They won't fit other F1 rims. If you have a tire cutter you can also fit PRO10 tires to those rims, but you'll need to glue the tires into place using cyanoacrylate glue and keep them in place with rubber bands until the glue has dried. Once the glue has dried you'll also need to cut the tires to correct the width. The F1 tires have a smaller inner diameter than the group C tires and will fit on all F1 rims (except the Indy car rims and the F1 dish wheel front rims, obviously).

Likely all the screws that are a dull grey color.

So with these new pictures, I can only feel disappointed after initially being excited about this new FWD car: - bathtub chassis with webbing in bad places that really limits the size of the electronics - spur sits so high low bodies won't fit properly - pinion cascade from spur to diff, instead of a more direct belt - very plasticy for a "pro" car I think I'll keep to my Yokomo YR-F2 Special, which doesn't suffer from these problems.

The can was made by Yokomo. It's probably best to hook up the motor to a ESC without a motor limit and see how fast it goes. I have a Trinity motor here that doesn't say anywhere how many turns it is, and that turned out to be a 10 turn quintuple off-road buggy motor that would have blown my regular racing ESC (which went to only 13 turns) if I had hooked it up to it.

I'll run it with lipo, so the weight distribution will be more biased towards the front. As for the HPI body, the front doesn't look much shorter than on the Tamiya Skyline bodies that came with certain TA03's.

Since I just build some TRF shocks (the hard black coating ones) for my 03F, they seem to be the correct length with no o-ring under the piston and the long lower damper eye. What oil should I fill them with? Should I use different oil weights front and back due to the front motor set-up? What springs do I use? I'm aiming for concrete/asphalt parking lot use... (okay, some info on the car: carbon chassis, carbon shock towers, ball diffs front and rear, will run it using a EZ-Run 13T and a HPI Nissan Skyline R34 body)

If this is for a runner, you're better off using either Sleeved dampers, hi-cap dampers, or some of the new TRF dampers for the DF-02/DF-03. The yellow plastic dampers are very easy to overtighten, and will leak once that has happened (In two words: they suck).

The TA03F David Jun edition (58200) is erronously listed at 58243 in the manual list, meaning that the manual at 58243 is not the TA03R-S TRF special as it should be. Can someone fix this?

In that case you'll need the specific battery bridges. AFAIK, changing the 03F rear gearbox for a 03R rear gearbox (= 03F front gearbox) will not solve your problem, as they use exactly the same screw holes.

It comes with four aluminium posts that are screwed to the chassis, and then the carbon plate is screwed to the posts. You attach the battery with battery tape.

AFAIK, the F and F-S use the same rear gearbox. Are you using the right battery bridges? The F-S/R-S FRP chassis set comes with additional battery bridges to get past the rear gearbox. If you lack those specific bridges you will have to use the TA03F Pro carbon battery plate set...

Just go to Tamiya America, Asiatees, or some other retailer that carries parts for Tamiyas, and search for servo mounts.

Any straight (not angled) alloy aftermarket parts will do. Heck, any straight Tamiya mounts will do, they are pretty standard.

The Top Force shaft is the hop-up option to the standard TA01/Manta Ray prop shaft (which is just a coathanger-style piece of wire). Carson made an alloy prop shaft for the TA01 chassis.