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Disco

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Everything posted by Disco

  1. Hi, I need a new unpainted thundershot shell for my new build chassis, no decals required or boxart, painted perfect shell please Please let me know what you have trade or cash/paypal waiting. Thanks Dave
  2. I have a Falcon runner... or two and yes the understeer is spectacular !! it can be improved with some softer tyres but you have to change the wheels as they are not the usual size. I use wild one front wheels/tyres and its better but the steering geometry is rubbish being different for left and right lock, that's not even considering the bumpsteer! The Wild One or Fox are way better runners and stronger too IMHO...
  3. A Novak sensored esc ( Novak make a specific crawler esc ) with a 21.5T motor should be fine in a mounty providing you not looking for high speed. My CR01 has a 40:1 reduction, I use a Novak timbuk2 and Tamiya transpeed 21.5T on mine. The 21.5T is supposed to be equivalent to a stock motor, I reality its a bit hotter I think, also the brushless will be OK at stall and low speed as long as its a sensored motor, sensorless motors don't like low RPM or stall and tend to stutter and get hot because they rely upon the back emf from the motor when its turning to set the timing.
  4. Hi, I am interested in you 2 buggys, I could collect or meet up? I live in Hertfordshire but travel up you way on occasions, please pm me if you still have them.
  5. 44021 TG10 Mini cooper racing with just about every hopup Entered 25 03 2007 Views 3619 Still have it in my collection....
  6. Not really, just make an interference fit slug, press and bond in, then drill 7mm... simples
  7. Why not get the 8mm ones sleeved? I am sure you have the contacts to do this....
  8. Thanks for the link ! Just ordered some, saves throwing away a perfectly serviceable vintage MSC,
  9. Its come out amazing ! looks really nice. I have a NIB original shell for my new built King Cab, have it for years but have been too scared to paint it, maybe its a job for when I retire. P.S, where did you get the resistor terminals from? I need to repair a few of them myself.
  10. Sorry tried to post a link but its not working.
  11. Hello Jim, Its available for download on Tamiya USA in pdf form.
  12. Tamiya M chassis wheels and tyres or others manufacturers in that size is what I use with avante or similar wheel hex's There's a picture or two of my runners in my showroom.
  13. Nice Kingcab's ! I have also built one from new parts and got a nice runner too, I used egress diff housings (one needs machining) with three shims fitted, this has run like this for years, ran it recently at one of the Iconic meets... I think the std monkey metal diff housing flex too much and crack and allow the diff to slip and melt the plastic gear. If its Tamiya paint I have had some success using Tamiya lexan cleaner but its a long job but did not damage the body, I think its only available from Japan in a small bottle with a violet top. P.S. you Kingcab box is much nicer than the one I have!
  14. Hi , Not sure if you can still get the alloy arms, seem to remember they were about £75 for the full set Front/rear, Top/bottom, but some used ones went for big money recently as droopy mentioned... Sorry I forgot to look at what arms I have but i'll look today !
  15. Dorvack, you have seen the Rockwell automation sales video eh? Anyways the part looks like a front suspension pivot for a sandscorcher or rough rider?
  16. Screw in the mixture screw counting the number of turns, should be 21/2 to 3 then remove the screw completely , now blow down the pressure pipe to the tank until fuel comes out the open jet. refit the mixture screw in all the way and the unscrew until its when it was before or 3 turns, it should then start as I'll wager the jet is blocked with old fuel.
  17. I have bought a few TGX parts for that seller, bit slow to arrive but no problems really....
  18. How about a Nosram dominator they are small and rated for low turn motors...see pic on mine in the Madcap below
  19. I have not seen a repro finished body for the Frog, but I don't think its a hard one to paint from memory. Normally I use triflow gear grease in my runners or the Tamiya white ceramic if I have any at the time. I have some A1 parts but they are for the monster beetle so would be red. I have loads of servo arms (mainly black) but what servo manufacturer are you using as the are a few types? The small yellow part is as you correctly assumed, part of you monster beetle, its a shock piston. Good luck and keep up the good work! most rebuilds don't need many parts unless you want the new built look. Regards Dave
  20. If you take out the good screw, you may be able to loosen the damaged one enough by wiggling the motor whilst trying to hold the head of the bolt with a flat blade screwdriver.....
  21. They are both great cars, I have several of each and have rebuilt many... just make sure that the plastic parts (wishbones,chassis etc) are not cracked or broken as they are hard/expensive to come by. Any car with the original technigold motor with fetch a premium. Original body's are very expensive to find and are easily damaged, if you don't mind a bit less detail in the body there are some repro ones available I do have spare parts for both if you get one with some damage. Cheers
  22. Its taken 11 days from Coventry to here, 1 days of that was transferring from the parcelfarce international hub to the national hub......same place different shelf.
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