Jump to content

deejay1711

Members
  • Content Count

    325
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by deejay1711

  1. there is an esc here in the UK called the Dynamite Tazer, handles down to 12 turn and would be in the $50 region for you. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=29239 Modelsport will deliver worldwide but i don't think they are only 24 hours from Tulsa , sorry had to get that in!! i'im sure it would be available in the US, and likely Ebay too.
  2. check these out: http://www.awfulgames.com/fun/womenlivelonger/
  3. Thanks everyone. I checked to see if his subscription was still active by doing a member search and all the tabs were along the top so then thought i'd come here as i know he regularly drops in on the forum. I'll try the contact a member route on his details and hope he has updated his email address!! Thanks again everyone
  4. Hi mods, can you help me please? i tried to contact Ryck (WRC Action but you probably know this) via his SIG but on the two occasions i tried i got a Failed Delivery Status notification from: postmaster@tamiyaclub2.titaninternet.co.uk. Can you shed any light on the matter please? For the record i was applying for the Dakar Desert racers SIG. thanks a lot, ian
  5. Cheers, i'll have a look at that too. Might be a bit cheaper to just swap axles though, Blacque Jacques tutorial has helped.
  6. OMG! You really need to try and get some vid fo you chasing a squirrel round! The ones by me are nuts (boom boom!) and are quite likely to set about my car in a gang and leave it on bricks
  7. see my entry above, what did i say!!
  8. try modelbuild on ebay, modelbuild.co.uk. He has a few under 'gearbox joint' but i'm not sure exactly which one you need. if you've got a manual have a look for the exact part number. I have a couple but they're all slightly different lengths. you can get them seperately, you just need to know exactly which one. TA Mark or Blacque Jacque are likely to know.
  9. As the title says i need to widen a TA01 chassis that is currently running on standard axles. Can anyone suggest which axles from another kit would be best for the job? Need to take a hex pin obviously. cheers, deej
  10. one of the best tips i got when i was young, and i also don't wish to sound patronising, was to accelerate slowly and smoothly. Don't just bang the throttle control straight to the top because with the power you are using skids, fish tailing from standstill and wheelspinning are very likely to happen. Let the car find some grip from its start then continue to acccelerate once good forward momentum is acheived. Equally when braking, feather it a few times instead of one direct pull back. also dont worry overly about scratches to the shell and rims, these are gonna happen. some things are just unavoidable. if you wanna keep your car looking first class then have shells and wheels for the shelf and shells and wheels for the road. I would look for somewhere with a bigger area than a school playground too, if its just breakneck speed you want then look for a big car park and simply 'drag' up and down. B&Q tend to have decent sized car parks, or a big shopping mall. You'll find yourself out and about soon and every bit if ground you see you'll be thinkin "hmmm... looks like a good place to run!" Good luck anyway, but don't be too downhearted, once it falls into place you'll love it
  11. here is a link to the topic i started when needed to do the same. it has the traxxas exploded diagram so you know what parts to get and pics of others who have done it too to give you an idea of what it should look like. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...c=43032&hl=
  12. ah, i've just spotted the difference. the part you need is, according to jacque (who usually knows his stuff), 25mm long whereas the one i have posted is 20mm long. also yours seems to have two grooves running around the perimeter towards the bottom and the hilux racer has only one. they do both take the same screw in the bottom though and are the same diameter. so now its wether you want to keep your model fully original or put a part in that is readily available, will do the same job and only you (and us but we won't tell) will know its different.
  13. the hi lux/king cab is aluminium not plastic but i couldn't tell you for definite if its the same size as i've never seen a super champ one. here it is anyway. its 20mm with a 5mm diameter. the wire slot is cut down 10mm. its screwed in with an M3/BA6 screw that at a rough measurement seems to be 10mm x 3mm. it is in the hi lux racer kit in the bushing bag, part#9405528 and its own part# in this kit is 3455035. hope this helps.
  14. only glanced at that picture but is it the same as the one on the hi lux racer/king cab? looks similar. if so they should be quite easy to get hold of. if they're completely different just tell me to shut up!!
  15. hehe, bit of a mouthful! that rising fighter has been on i'm pretty sure. Based on a GH2/Super Hornet by the looks of it so fingers crossed there will be a big supply of spares soon on the market for me to do my GH Super G. And as for that Nismo.. (picks chin up off floor) Just realised, is that the Nissan Clarkson raced Hammond and May across Japan in on Top Gear?
  16. i noticed that. i too got a little excited! i also noticed in the second list garry put down it had been translated from impreza to in presser. hehe
  17. and that second link from spetz is what i've shown in picture one, from the same company.
  18. cty300 on ebay have them for the 02. this is the 02 one the ta01 shaft needs to be longer so i altered it like this simply cut an 02 shaft in half then put the two halves in either end of a section of transmitter aerial. its a nice fit. you need to keep checking the fit incase of movement because you don't want it to end up too short. once you are happy with the length, clamp it so it doesn't move. now take a drill and a small drill bit and drill straight through the aerial section and the shaft. do this at either end of the aerial section you are you using. now simply put a piece of narrow metal rod in the drilled out hole to act as a split pin. you need to make the pin slightly longer than the diameter of the shaft so you can bend it over at both ends once its through the shaft. once you have bent both ends of the pin over stitch a little weld on to secure it permantly. you can't weld too much as the heat will cause the metal to distort. if you can't get access to welding gear you might be able to do it with a really good soldering iron and some auto electrician solder or even brazing equipment, but again be careful of distorting the metal.
  19. 3.5!!!! i have a 6.5 novak and that is nuts- man i feel the need..... just been looking at novak and they do a 6.5 brushless drift set called the slydr. i was led to belive that torqueier(? ) talkier(! ) motors were better. comments anyone?
  20. Looks nice arancio, really comin together now. i've popped in on your other threads now and again to see how you're going. Can't help you with the specifics on your decal requirements but just flicked through Tower and they have a vast selection, doesn't necessarily have to be Tamiya does it? XXX main do a smart chrome diamond plate decal that i'm sure you would be able to fashion something nice out of. Also if you're a subscriber to TC would you be interested in putting this in our DF chassis sig (he says touting for more interest!!)? if not no worries, and thanks for the nice words you put on my market research form the other day, everyone has been great so far, don't think i haven't forgotten you if you put your names down!!
  21. funny this should pop up, i've just been looking for a 69 chevy chevelle in 1/10. anyone know where i can get one? was watchin Talladega Nights last night and thought it would be a cool model to make
  22. i got some universals on mine, GPM. they bent after two outings and i only use it for a drifter so don't get them!
  23. well the actual shop is now becoming more of reality than a possibility, because as many people have pointed out major stockists won't supply an online only site very easily. it was always a part of the idea anyway but now seems as it might come a lot earlier than i anticipated. the importing of items from the far east is something i need to look carefully at, because paying customs and excise on large amounts of stock won't be cheap. it depends on what they could be sold for here. if they get brought in but i still can't compete with the far east market on single items, (that you could get delivered without paying 'duties' on) then it might not really be worthwhile. may be better concentrating on what are already successful business models operating within this country.
×
×
  • Create New...