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Posts posted by mosiac
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Hi, I am currently putting together a custom Blitzer Beetle chassis / and my own version of a offroad beetle that I plan on having a lot of fun with. I still don't think anyone has actually done this. I am currently trying to attach SRB wheels and tires to the rear to my Blitzer Beetle chassis. The front were easy enough. The rears I was thinking of using a set of new release Frog drive cups and thorp wheelmonuts that are pinched on the drive cups. For the gear box i am going to use Frog gearbox drive cups (they fit perfectly! same spline on the blitzer and frog drive cup that goes in the gear box!) The biggest problem is getting a driveshafts that are long enough and that will fit the drive gear box drive cups and the wheel drive cups. I will have to take a couple pics so that you know what I am trying to do. Anyway the first step is that I need to see a Hotshot drive shaft to see if I could possibly use these to connect the gearbox of the Blitzer Beetle to the Frog Drive cups. So if anyone can put a pic of the front and rear drive shafts of a hotshot that would be appreciated.
Thanks OSR
Hi OSR
To look at they are just a standard dogbone. Not sure of length off the top of my head though. How long do you need it to be?
Cheers
Hamish
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Mine would be:
1 My Winger (nearly complete) resto project.
2 My Parma Chrome wheels (Avatar pic)
3 My NIP Parma frogjumper body set
The best part
these have cost a grand total of NZ$33 (12-15 GBP)Cheers
Hamish
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I recently bought a Madcap runner off ebay. When i ran it for first time the motor was spining fast but the car barely moved, not being an expert i thought a diff problem?
As i was going to install a few hop-up parts anyway i though i'd treat it to a new diff (part 53043) i put this together last night and still have the same problem. If i tighen the 3 srews on the housing any thighter than they already are i cant turn the joints by hand, is this right? As per the instructions i havent used the BE7 washers, do i need these?
Thanks
Ben
Are tyres glued on rims and is pinion grub screw tight?
Hamish
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I've got 2.
First was about 18 months ago with 2 scorcher chassis (SP. is there a plural or does it have enough S's in there already?) and 2 bodies, 1 original and 1 lexan.
I happened to be first to spy it on auction site at $40 start and instantly asked about a BIN price, he came back with make an offer so I said $200 not wanting to either insult him or get a dose of bad karma the follwing week and then waited and waited till 12 minutes later when someone else placed a bid and he could no longer add a BIN. Went for just under $800 as I recall.
Second was only november last year when a mate was round and saw my budding collection and said a mate of his had one the same as my MB but it was broken, Smelling a bargain I got his phone number and gave him a call and explained why I was calling etc. He says "Oh, I sold that to a guy last week for a tenner" I was going to start at $25!!! Turns out he snapped chassis (there that word again) about 1990-91 and it had sat since, body hadn't been used as he had a pick up body he liked the look of better...!!!! I just mumbled something like "OK thanks see ya" and hung up so I could beat my head against a wall.
Cheers
Hamish
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When I cleaned up a set for my drifter I got an old axle and used a couple of washers to pack it out and put it in a drill on slow speed and basically used it like a mini lathe.
DISCLAIMER:
Don't use any form of blade or sharp object, cost me another pair of wheels and some skin when mine bit in and gouged 1 wheel and 2 fingers, could have been an eye. You have been warned.
If you use sandpaper though it seems to work good as gold.
Good luck
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Hi all,
Mosiac has been my online nick since the mid 90's and my avatar is a set of vintage crp chrome centreline wheels that will end up on my future scorcher now that the re-re has been announced.
Cool thread :-)
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The average CNC machine only runs a PC of 'average home grade' specs. Alot of the G code files we were using never went over 25k in size. They aren't supercomputers.
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Please excuse the off topic but I have over 5000 hours as a CNC programmer/machinist on a 5 axis machine.
Re: "Flipping switch" Terry.sc is correct the whole body would scale up. IE every X,Y, and Z (on a 3 axis machine) dimension would be proportionally larger so as he pointed out for correct wheelbase you would have the over size track measurement. BUT on modern software this is very easy to acheive and would require no more than 4 mouse clicks and a couple of minutes recalculating toolpaths.
However it would be a cheap and tacky thing to do and if Tamiya did it I would probably not buy one as it would look naff (IMHO).
So most likely scenario is:
Scale CAD up as above and then shrink, stretch, twist and tweak every dimension till it fits desired chassis and looks like it should, and then apply NEW toolpaths. Then you would have a product that Mr Tamiya would proudly put his name on and mugs like us will fight over in 15-20 years time.
Sorry for off topic.
Cheers
Hamish
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Nice find!!!
The body on this is exactly what I'm planning on one day apart from the colour
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Hi all,
I'm looking to get one of these and wondered what TC members had to say about them. I have seen posts where members have 'borrowed' the wifes with good results but can't find them again with search so please post your thoughts/advice to help me make a decision.
Cheers
Hamish
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Went in to work today and this was waiting for me on my desk , left for me by a very very nice work colleuge! Always wanted one and she runs!!! Happy days . Anyone got any advice for making her better ?
Nice one, wish I had workmates like that.
If it has bearings check and clean them, if it hasn't, get a full set of bearings in it.
Give the whole thing a good check over for loose screws etc. so that you can fix any potential problems on the bench at home rather then try and work out where that wheel went and why did it fall off.
As to motor that is up to how fast/hard you want to drive it but remember the harder you are with it the more expensive it is, the fastest motor I own is 19T and I havn't even used it this year, most of the time I usually run standard, sport tuned, GT, or Dirt tune, it depends on which cars I take out with me. My super sabre (basically identical chassis to hotshot except twin rear shocks) is alot of fun with a sport tune and in all honesty much faster and the 80's design suspesion starts showing its age.
Cheers
Hamish
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I asked someone once and he told me it's a digital "screen" to tell traffic condition and other important communication from the police station. Can anyone varify that?
VS
Like a heads up display?
Just need wings and weps and you could go all "topgun" on the bad guy
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Stunning work, if I can make one car that nears this for execution I'll be a happy man.
Also whats the purpose of the plexi glass "screen" on the 1:1?
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They just look to be CRP chrome wheel covers on standard Scorcher or Grasshopper wheels (paddle rears and smoothie fronts)...
Very nice..
EDIT.. I just had another look and the rears seem to have Rough Rider Rims... The fronts may be RR as well, although its a bit hard to tell from the Pic's..
Thanks Guys,
I havn't actually got them yet but had to know what they were, I should be getting them monday or tuesday so I'll post up pics with caps off then so that you guru's can tell me exactly what I got.
Cheers
Hamish
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So has anyone used 1 of these with less than 23t motor?
These seem to have build quality issues that even a 23t is too much, it seems to depend on whether you got a good one or not, I have run a 19t on a cold day with no issues but have had a 25t GT tune thermal on a medium to warm day on another one so it boils down to caveat emptor and if you are prepared to cook it try it. I would suggest you get a better one if you plan on a hot motor though as I belive these are designed as a basic starter level ESC not a hi performance ESC.
Hamish
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Hi,
Just another quick q? on this, local bearing guy can only do the 1260 at 3.5 mm wide not 4mm, I should be able to shim this out right?
Cheers
Hamish
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reminds me of Baywatch. . . .
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Hi WillyChang,
it's a TA03F.
On a side note, is that the purpose of the 16t pulley? to take out slack? I'v often wondered what benefit it offered as only other reference I have seen to it is mixing the 15t and 16t to alter the drive balance to the front or rear depending on your handling needs.
Cheers for all your input guys.
Hamish
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looking at the ta03 manual in front of me, yup, u got them all

Thanks heaps,you've saved me heapsof $$$$$
LHS wants $180 for set but won't tell me sizes, local bearing shop reckons $25-$40 if I can tell them sizes, guess where I'm going....
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Hi All,
I've used search and can't find the info I want.
Are these the size bearings I need for a TA03?
Amount/Bearing code Bearing Size
2x730 7x3x3
4x850 8x5x2.5
8x1150 11x5x4
4x1260 12x6x4
4x1510 15x10x4
Cheers in advance
Hamish?
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WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!
Hi all, first I'd like to thank my family........
Sorry couldn't resist

Great idea for a contest and thank you for the opportunity to enter and thanks even more for choosing my number.
A little bit about myself.
Name: Hamish
Location:New Zealand
Age: 36 (nearer 37)
And the important bit Cars I own:
Blackfoot converted to monster beetle,
Boomerang with Winger body,
Super Sabre,
Boomer parts car,
Hornet with Parma Froghopper or fake SS body depending on the mood my 2.5 yr old son is in,
TA-03F drifter,
TA-03RS project chassis.
Cheers
Hamish




My Mb :o)
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
Look like proline moab's to me