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richard.tufty

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About richard.tufty

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  • Birthday 06/04/1974

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  1. I use a Turnigy 4250kV motor and 2S Lipo in mine and it's quick but just about controllable, in a good way.
  2. I have seen a lot of people mention this over the years and whilst I am not disputing it, I have never experienced it myself. I have a DF03 which I got in 2007 that has been bashed a lot and raced (inexpertly!) a little which has never had an issue with the main shaft idler. It has had a Novak 8.5T brushless in it form day one and a slipper after a year or two. Perhaps I just don't drive as much as most people, but it's still got an original drive train, including ball diffs.
  3. I'm considering getting an old silver Futaba Attack-R, c. 1988 from ebay and replacing the guts with those from a modern Flysky or similar radio. I still haven't found any radios which feel as nice to use as the old 27MHz Attack series. I have a slightly more modern Attack-SR, but it's all off white plastic and nowhere near as nice to use as the older silver ones. I can foresee some chopping and dremelling might be needed to do it, but it's worth a go! I reckon so long as the pots on the sticks have about the same range of resistance in both sets, it shouldn't be impossible. As an aside, I use the HobbyKing 3-ch wheel Tx and a 6-ch air Tx with the small 3-Ch Receivers pictured a few posts above this by LosiXXT-CR and find them very reliable, just not as nicely made and thus not as nice to use. Having all the EPA and dual rate settings on the wheel system is really nice, but not essential to me for most of my bashing.
  4. Interesting... I have a complete NOS Super Sabre replacement bodyset, in the brown cardboard box complete with decals. I picked it up very cheap on ebay about 12 years ago for my own restoration project, which was started for similar reasons to OP's. I have never had the heart to use it, maybe I should liquidate some assets!
  5. You hit the main point for me - the building from a kit. I actually enjoy building and tinkering more than running most of the time. There is also a huge nostalgia factor for me and I imagine many others here - Tamiya were the main brand we had as kids 30 years ago and we can now afford all the models we never had!
  6. I use a 8.5T brushless on 2s Lipo in mine and find it fun enough, but not too much that it destroys the drivetrain. I did put a slipper in there too.
  7. I agree, I love my Agrios, but I had to put Clod wheels on it otherwise it just looks a bit off to my eyes.
  8. I'm in Salisbury, not too far from Swindon and have not found anywhere/anyone locally to bash or race with yet...
  9. Has anyone used the programming card to setup one of the waterproof Turnigy 70A ESCs? I have a card that works fine with my 120A Turbo ESC and a couple of the waterproof combo units, but it won't work with my 70A ESC. I get an Error 14268101 message and no options are available to me. My programmer says "Hextronik (Car) Program BOX Ver 2.1" when I start it up, has anyone got one with a newer version? If so, I might order a new one, since I have had this one a few years and it's possible the 70A ESC came out after my box was made, but I don't want to do that if they are all V2.1!
  10. Nowhere near as rare as many of the things on here, but I have a NIB Super Sabre bodyset with decals in the orignal brown box, I have only ever seen this one and one other for sale, I paid a pittance for it somehow on ebay!
  11. Same here. Also had an Attack (no R) as well, they felt so solid compared to today's offerings.
  12. What serious weakness is that? I have been bashing a DF03 since 2007 (the first Tamiya I bought for 25 years when returning from my dark ages!) and never had to replace any of the drivetrain. It had a 22T brushed for the first year or two and an 8.5T brushless with a slipper and Lipo ever since. That thing has been raced around a hard packed dirt/concrete track and driven over pretty much every surface and I think the only parts I have broken are the front wishbones and one upright when it cartwheeled on "landing" a jump. I read years ago that people were complaining about the idler gear (I think) being a weak point, but mine has had no problem. It's not raced weekly or at any competitive level which may be where the failures people reported came from, but for the average basher (which was TongueTied's use case) it's a great car with loads of spares/hop ups available from both Tamiya and 3rd parties. I do agree entirely with the DB01 comments, I have one of those too and it is nicer in almost every way, but it's more expensive and I do so hate the slim hexes on the wheels, I find it tricky to get them to engage properly without a fair bit of wiggling and testing. I think that's the only bit of the car I dislike when compared to my Dark Impact.
  13. I used to live in the U.S. (I'm a Brit) and at one point most of my cars had a union Jack on the body or spoiler, it started with my TA05 race car, one of my buddies did an awesome job and painted the flag over the entire shell, lots of masking! That inspired me to try. Since moving back to the UK it doesn't seem right to keep the theme up though, odd...
  14. I picked up one of the Penguin chassis kits on ebay a few years ago for a reasonable price, it's really nice to put together. I don't have many pics of it, but there is one at the bottom of my showroom: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?id=21086&cid=81312&t=07052015205855
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