poulpit

[red]is there any advantage to using brass? first, thank's for your comments, guys![^] * It's more easy to work than steel, I think so!(to bend, to weld, to cut and profile with one dremel tool,.....). *It's lighter than steel! I have used brass pipes because it's the best between alloy (difficult to weld but light) and steel (difficult to brass with one torche and heavy)! *The brassing pipes aren't too hard, It's better to have one frame absorbing shochs than one too hard(you break your soldering...)[] another think: to bend my pipes, I dont use the torche, sure after the brass pipes are to breakable ! I bend it slowly around differents diameter of circle form. I know the spring you said me(used to bend the yellow or grey electric plastic pipes)but I haven't one so little![xx(] [)]

Yes! Do you have found your flame tool??[xx(]. Soldering with fux included is the best, but I use flux liquid before... Oh, oh everybody, do you like my project?? I try to update this every day, but I have no more answers to you [], do I must stop the updates????[xx(] [)]poulpit.

great!! thank's Raoul for the link![^] Regards from Belgium.[] [)]Poulpit

Hi Jester, Sorry for my english language but....[:I] you need to assemnle your pipes: *one bottle of liquid stripper(to strip the coat of oxydation on your pipes) *soldering, it is beter with include stripper. *one flame tools you strip, with the liquid, the parts you want to assemble, you joint your pipe and you sold gently, not to warm! Tip:It is beter to "pointed" your pieces before put much soldering on your pieces!! you put only few soldering(one point, just to fix. If you mis, it is more easily to adjust after that.... But....it is not so easy! When you sold, be attention at the parts you assemble before![xx(]. protect them with one steel plate! Good luck for your bug....Show me it after you have built it![] regards, [)]poulpit

quote:Originally posted by volksrod68thats cool, reminds me of the Chenowth kits you could get for the vw suspension. keep up the cool work, oh, and put a fast motor in, u might get wheelies! cheers joe id="quote">id="quote">I didn't know Chenoweth kits before. There is one great website[]. I like dune buggies but we have not so much dune in Belgium[]to have a really one! This is a plate landscape.... Thank's Joe..

quote:Originally posted by TamiyaBeaterFleetI definatly dig it , how are you planning to mount the electronics? id="quote">id="quote">There is no big place[:I]! But I think it's enough to put my direction servo, receiver and battery. In fact, I built this roll cage without building instructions, no previous measurements.....only in my mind, step by step[] Thank's for your question! I'll think about the place to mount the electronics for the second self-made roll cage...[] [)]Poulpit.

Hi, (23/04/03: updated!)id="red"> Finished[]!! Just one question, I can remove some olds pictures, if someone have the solution,[] Thank's [)]Poulpit. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...id=8548&id=1042

mountainer expensive too!

For me, it was the ss NIB, 1600$! [:I][] It was my first car bought on ebay! [)]poulpit.

Thank's Raemin! []

Hi, In my projects, I'ld like to build one roll cage with front and rear ends form one SS, as a sand buggy.There are 2 or 3 months ago, I have seen one website from a guy who built this cage(it was light blue, I remember...). If someone have the link because I can't find it now![] Many thanks, [)]Poulpit.

quote:Originally posted by SpikeWhat is about Sand Scorchers that make them so desirable that people are willing to spend loads on just about anything to do with them? Some of the prices they go for on ebay amaze me. The chassis is the same as the RR and Ranger, so it can't be for the handling and raw speed! I think the Beetle body looks as ugly as sin. Yet I feel obliged to get one for my collection (which secretly annoys me)[] Am I missing something? id="quote">id="quote">Take a look at the real 1/1 "BAJA 500" race! The most bodies used are beetle or rough rider! By default to have one real, we have one little tamiya! It doesn't matter for the price, the ss is a mystic car for a long time....[] [)]poulpit.

quote:Originally posted by SjoerdUse search on the body question. It's really a FAQ. the Mk.1 Sand Scorcher has (mine has excpet for bumper): hex screws black bumper different body post (slot, no hole) gearbox has different lumps inside (2 ovals and 2 circles) to hold the motor gearbox has, where the rear cage fits in, 2 think lips, in stead of being one solid lip rear arms take 2 bearings in stead of one I think that's about all for the early ones... There could be more version with black bumpers and normal screw etc... I am not sure on that. But these are typical characteristics of 'old' ones as far as I know. [] id="quote">id="quote">for the early ones, there are too: * 2 little screws to lock the front spring on the "front axle". The others have "mouled plots". * the 5mm X 5 grub screw (little screw hex) have one gold colour,the most recently have silver colour. * No little "aeration" holes on the radio box, near the switch. The most recently have two! * No hole in the center of the switch and gear cover.The most recently have it! * the little olds screws (as to assemble the rims by example), their heads have one design to use with one plate screwdriver. There are some little details but important when you buy one ss built! [] [)]poulpit.

Good remark about the primer,"Can get right"! Certainly if you use one white primer, your colour will seems to be lighter! But after you have applied this primer, your body will be more difficult to paint ( more and more fine applies!). But what's the importance of the blue? I like my ranger like this!See it... http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp...003212545_1.jpg Another question about the front grill: On the real old F150 XLT, the grill is all black or just the black holes with chromed lines? [xx(]

quote:Originally posted by raeminAs for this lexan body, why not make your own mould and ask some fellow club member to mould the lexan sheet for us? Provided you have an original lexan body, the approx cost would be $30 for the moul (gelcoat + polyester resine + fiberglass + demolding spray). If you only have an ABS one, the first step would be to make an outer mould in RTV silicone rubber, and get an inner mould using the above mentioned method (add $20 for the RTV rubber). I've just done the same for a kyosho baja bug and I can send you some pics on how to proceed. The real challenge here is not to destroy the master. Raoul PS : guess what I am going to do with this one ... Anyone interested? id="quote">id="quote">You can see videos on this site ( in french, but good!) http://www.pascalrosier.com/video/video.htm Poulpit.

Perhaps I didn't use the correct paint, perhaps..... Certainly the japanese have used regatta blue in '80s, from opel!!! Excuse me, the driver has normaly black hair, isn't it?

I am just restored and sprayed one(see my showroom). The color I have used is one Tamiya spray code:TS-15 "blue". This blue is dark but if you want too light, it is possible to find it! It is named "french blue" but I don't know the color code [8)]. I use Tamiya spray, I think they are the best (fine spray colors). After you have painted, there is some fine coat of color all around[].... Regards, Poulpit