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Everything posted by Miggers

  1. Here's my current: Can't fault a nice E46 coupe.
  2. Got a Mardave Meteor LWB?,need a shell for it? Look no further,the nice Mr Haskins has done one for you: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mardave-Meteor-Lwb-Bodyshell-And-Wing-Set-Reproduction-Lexan-/271351612392?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f2dd103e8
  3. You know the ones,you slip them onto the shock body before the spring. They have a little screw in them so that you can adjust the spring pre-load by sliding them up and down the shock body then you tighten the screw to hold the adjustment. On the left in this E-Bay pic.are the type I mean: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=130420488045 As fitted to Kyosho/Associated RC10/Mardave Cobra/Traxxas shock absorbers. I could do with a pair(i.e,two)in black plastic. If anyone can spare a couple,I'd be most grateful. Thankyou.
  4. I completely agree with matman. They look superb with their weathering,dirt and worn paint,plus,it's all natural too. I'd love to go play down there with that lot. Mark
  5. I've got 'em fitted on the front end of my Mardave Cobra with Option House gold shocks, they seem too stiff with very little give in 'em.
  6. Got my paws on a pair of blue Tamiya friction shocks with silver springs on a while back. Any idea what the spring rates are at all?
  7. The ADX-10 looks pretty fruity. No dealers here in UK yet though. Mark
  8. Brilliant stuff and a cracking read. I've never owned a rug racer or a tarmac car,I raced 1/10th 4WD off road BITD and now just run an old Cobra for thrashing about down at the local spot. Wouldn't mind going and doing a bit of racing though,if there was a decent off road club in the locality. Mark
  9. I thought the "metric" B4 was the Ansmann X-Pro? The bottom line is this: My first car was a Boomerang,raced it for two years and loved it,then replaced it with an Optima Mid Custom (now caning a souped up Mardave Cobra about),but what a revelation that was. Much smoother,quicker,responsive and tuneable compared to the old Boomer and very capable of squabbling with the all-conquering CATs on the track. I don't race anymore(hence the souped up Cobra),but if I wanted a slow heavy classic basher then I'd maybe go for the Boomer (no re-re OMC yet,come on Kyosho!!),but if I wanted a much more fiesty basher that I could tune the pants off,put a brushless/lipo into really throw the mud and dust up, then I'm afraid that my money wouldn't go on a TRF201,it'd be a B4/4.1,TLR 22 or,yes,maybe the Ansmann Mad Rat/X-Pro. From what I'm hearing,the Mad Rat is an awsome bit of kit for the money(£65-£70 with bearings!!!), highly tuneable for not much money and can be turned into a pretty good racer for not a lot more. Can Tamiya make a car(for the European market of course) of that spec.with that potential for a starting price of £65-£70?. Tamiya is for slow and dependable. Associated,Losi,Durango,X-Factory,Schumacher,Ansmann,etc,they're for the racers/fast bashers.
  10. Have a look at this site: http://www.rccommand.com/Tank%20Upgrade%20Parts.php Scroll down to precision engineered high torque gearboxes from Tamiya. Designed for tanks built to scale weight in 1/16th scale(a scale weight KT in 1/16th needs to be 30-35 lbs/15-20kgs). RC Command also make custom tank gearboxes to your requirements. Yours is behaving entirely prototypically. Tiger 1's and KT's were well know for eating gearboxes,Tiger 1's were nearly 53 tons all up,KT's were nearly 60. Their 'boxes were designed for tanks 10-15 tons lighter Mark
  11. Would you have any slipper clutch parts for a Cobra? I could do with one for this beasty: Whoops,just clicked Jez,no you won't have. Mark
  12. That body is awful,it's a mile off!!!!. This is why(being a static scale modeller too),I only do buggies. If I did a "car" that "looked" scale,I'd be annoyed at it's performance. I'd expect it to look, drive and handle like the real thing. For example,can anyone drive a 1/10th scale RWD Escort like Simon McKinley drives his Mk2 Warrior Escort? I haven't seen anyone do it yet. At least buggies don't seem to match any full size counterparts,so there isn't any comparisons to be made as such. That's my take on it anyway. BTW,here is Mr McKinley in that wicked Mk2 giving it plenty of beans:
  13. The Cobra transformation is complete(for now anyway) Meteor bits left are front uprights,rear arms and axle holders.
  14. So you lot struggle just as much. Oh well,just thought I'd ask.
  15. Build report on it here: http://rcracer.com/off-road-electric-artic...d-report-tlr-22 It certainly looks a very competent bit of kit at a very good price too. Mark
  16. "I must say this car is on another level in terms of engineering and definitely outside my Tamiya comfort zone!" That's because it's a "real" race buggy. Set this up right and you'll give a lot of modern competiton machinery a run for it's money. For the ESC you'll want something with a good low turn limit(say 12 turn motors),say a Nosram,Tekin or Mtronics. Most ESC's of that ilk are forward and brakes only. IIRC,they have 64dp spurs and pinions as standard,but if not then they're 48dp,so your gearing depends all on your motor choice really. You could well be better going here to get more answers: http://www.oople.com/forums/ There's a fair few vintage Schumacher racers and restorers on there. Mark
  17. Looking for some of the above,a couple of "Futaba",a couple of "Mtronics and a couple of "Parma",but in the early '90's styles that could be seen on competiton machinery BITD. Has anyone got a few to spare and if not where could I get some from? I've looked at those manufacturer's websites and I don't see any graphics for sale, E-bay has also thrown up a blank. Mark
  18. I'd still see if you can gear it down a bit. The bog stock HL tracks aren't too strong,they're good at breaking where the pins go through the outer and inner full holes if you strain'em too much. The Tamiya tracks are a much better bet(much more expensive too)being a lot stronger on the pin holes with bigger and stronger steel pins in them. Mark
  19. Tamiya tracks will fit straight onto the HL Tiger 1. I run a set on mine as "indoor" tracks and the original HL tracks for outdoor use. If you put it on metal tracks you need to start looking at uprating most of the drive components, (3:1 ratio gearboxes,fitting cooling to the mainboard FETS,drive sprockets and idlers)more than likely fitting a track tensioning system and eventually metal suspension arms and strengthening the hull internally.
  20. Thanks sarge. I'd love to put it on there but I'm not a fully paid up Tamiyaclub member. Incidentally I got those JC Racing wheels for it,but they're RC10B2 rims(better looking than Cobra ones), they need a bit of work(rears boring out slightly and front axles fitting into the Meteor axle blocks). It also has a new Cobra shell and wing painted up and ready to fit(just waiting for graphics),plus one or two other tweaks then it'll be ready for the camera again in a few weeks. I'm hoping to bring it along to a few North West bashes this summer and maybe a bit of Retro racing with it. Mark
  21. If you're talking the basic self-tapping screws: 18 to start with,that's six to hold the front suspension mounts(3 per side),four to hold the gearbox on,four to hold the battery holders in place,two to fit the speed controller plate onto the top of the battery holders and two to fix the steering servo in place. Mark
  22. My point exactly. I'd rather see something go to an enthusiast as a whole,knowing they're going to clean it up,sort out a lick of paint,go to the retro races and give it the gun so to speak,or just drive it,using it for what it was designed for. Then when they've had enough,re-build it again,tidy it up and sell it on. Mark
  23. That's superb. I like the idea of a scale thickness steel hull,wifey wouldn't though.She whines enough now about my mostly plastic Tiger 1 rumbling across her nice laminate floor You've got a bit of a way to go yet though if you want scale weight. The KT is,what,50+tons AUW?,you need to be hitting around 30 pounds(13-14kg)for "scale" weight in 1/16th. All the best with it and keep us posted. Mark
  24. Just a hypothetical question,but........ Would you rather buy a classic,vintage or retro in one piece or would you buy from the same seller who'd obviously broken it to sell the parts separately. I've seen this done,parts taken off,lets say the wheels,rear end components(arms,driveshafts,outer hubs,etc),the main part of the vehicle put up for sale(chassis tub,front end and rear gearbox)and the rest of the parts that have quite obviously come from that vehicle put up for sale separately. Personally,I would'nt do it myself nor would I want to buy from a seller that was doing that,I'd like it all in one piece plus, I feel myself that it's a prrreeeettttyy unscrupulous way to operate. Let's say it was a classic pretty tidy RC10 Gold Tub,not a minter but not thrashed to within a few thou of it's life, surely it's worth more to the general market to have it all in one piece? Ok,maybe you don't need a whole one,maybe you only need a few spares,but a whole one has lots of spares or to someone that hasn't got one but would like to restore or have one for the retro races and hasn't any parts,then a complete one is better for them?? I know it's supply and demand,bums on seats,whatever you want to call it,but I personally thinks it's a bit grubby to be honest. Whaddo the "Massiv" reckon? Mark
  25. Could this be organised by the Hinckley Retro boys? A retro Mardave off road day? There's a fair few on here that have these old stalwarts of the budget 1/10 racing days. Apaches,Meteors,Cobras,(Metebras,Cobeors,Lobras,RC10bras,they're all Meteor or Cobra based hybrids,my own is a Cobeor), the limits would have to be the motor,say a silvercan or a "Stock" 27 turn sealed can(mine runs a Parma Cyclone Stock 27turn) and the battery,say a 6-cell NiCad. Obviously,whether folks would run an ESC or some type of mechanical(Tamiya,Mardave,Kyosho or WHY)is entirely upto them. Hinckley's grass track would be a great leveller I reckon. What sayeth the massiv? Mark
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