infernox

well if the guys is going to return my PM then ill have a junfac conversion kit including the plates in my hands real soon aswell. if i run into problems im gonna contact you for help with the tracer! dready: keep her happy, thats the smart thing to do. darn now im glad im not a taken man! OK taken MOAB's off my list.

i want to use a HPI defender, in honour of the defender which engine i blew. it roughly 25 pound, i know it doesnt sound like alot, but ive just moved house and the costs are through the roof, and i needed to buy rims etc. so my bank loves me right now.

i know whats rong. You have to sell those dampers to me and buy others, then itll run true and straight.

Ryan im following your and dready's build hourly. Thing is I dont know if i should get a high (tall tyre) or what? What would be best. Im looking at the following: -Losi rock claws (no stock no where so im actually giving up) -Imex Swamp Dawgs -MOAB 2.2 I just dont know..... And which dampers must i get, im looking for used, Emaxx or Tmaxx or Clod dampers, but I cant find any. Keep in mind in on a budget. The body is going to cost me R365, then paint at 40-60 rand a can. Gawd!!

Anyone got an idea which tyres i should fit? I ordered 2.2 beadlocks, but i need to decide on tyres.

the middle one!!!

1/10 scale body coming still. Deciding on which one. Bear with me Update for today: First off, I would like to remind you that this is a budget project so the tracer chassis kit (if i get it) will be last thing I import, except for the motor. Please keep in mind I got a limited budget and shipping is a nightmare (in money terms and our postal service stealing everything) Secondly, tried to completely finish the 4links last night. Ran into some snags... not enough threaded rod and no stock at LHS, will wait till the weekend. one link the rod is not long enough, so need to recut rod longer. Will havta wait as per above. Superglued the inserts into the arrows decently. Checked on clearance for tensioner. Trying to find the right washers, but so far no luck. So stock tlt wheel axles still installed. Filled Front TLT tyres with bb's to see effect untill new rims and tyres (undecided which tyre) arrive. Some pics of the progress: So far so good. Top: Stock Mini Wheel Axle Middle: Stock TLT Wheel Axle Bottom: Cut and beveled blackfoot axle 50808 Left: Stock Blackfoot Axle Right: Beveled and shortened cup from the Blackfoot Axles 50808 Bluebird High Torque Servo @RCurt: Looking at getting a tracer chassis from a guy in the USA. The sliders are to expensive at this moment. Will use the tracer kit's dogbone if I get it, otherwise for the time being Ill have to fabricate my own. Thanx for the compliement though. @blakeatron: Strech pic above, please keep in mind i still want to "traingulate" (if thats right) the rear links. If you know how this is done please advise me. @billg4: Please see my reply to rcurt's comment.

TLT Rockcrawler Build Thread by a newby rockcrawler builder for Newby Rockcralwer builders. When i saw what certain RC rockcrawlers could do i wanted one and so started the search and the research. After doing research to find a suitable base for my crawler as I didnt have the funds to buy a RTR crawler and being a bit of a Tamiya Nut, I decided on giong for a Tamiya LIttle Gear TLT Rock Buster, these were on sale at that time and a member of TamiyaClub offered to ship one to me as you could only buy from Tamiya USA if you stayed there. 3 Weeks later and my TLT arrived. In the beginning I didnt have huge plans for the car buy as I stared at it the feelings toward a all out 12.5 inch crawler started to grow. First off: To get accustomed to the parts and means of the TLT i built it as per manual spec and it stood there doing nothing for a while. As per BigAl from RCcrawler I then decided to go wider on the wheel base by using Tamiya Part 50808 (Black foot stub axles) whic would give me a total of 2 wheel hub (hex thingy in wheel) extra width. I was advised that this was the correct amount of widening, due to the TLT being low in any case and wider could mean more problems getting caught on rocks etc. Also as per BigAl from RCCrawler bought a HPI Nitro RS4 Rear Drive Belt as it is roughly the same size as the original belt but the same width (stronger and less likely to slip), but to use it I needed to fit a tensioner (later more on this). Chassis: Tamiya TLT (maybe importing a Junfac Tracer Kit) Dampers: Stock until i can find Emax or Tmax or Clod Stock Dampers Axles: TLT Locked axles using extra gear inside diff 4 Links: Custom using arrow shaft etc. (Will recieve new if using Tracer Kit) Dogbone: Custom made (unless using Tracer Kit) Motor: Dont know yet, might go for a Yokomo D1 Zero 35turn or a Integy 55T Lathe motor running a 15T Pinion on stock 83T Spur (might go 85T Spur) Gearbox: Stock TLT with tensioner on belt with stock ball diff. Wheels: JunFac Mudlock Beadlock 2.2 Rims in Black (awaiting delivery) Tyres: Undecided Foam: Stock Tyre Foam, fronts will have extra BB inside to increase CG but not add to spinning weight (more on this later) ESC: Schumacher ESC or Novak GTX or LRP V 7.1 Battery: Standard Stick Pack mounted on rear Axle *So Far parts gathered or used to finish truck: Tamiya TLT, BlackFoot Stub Axles (the one which go into the wheel), RS4 Belt, Sport Tuned motor, ESC's, Arrow Shafts (for 4links), Arrow Inserts (for 4links),3mm Threaded Rod (for 4links). Motor Bearings (4mm inner Diameter, for belt tensioner), Various Screws and nuts for everything, wheels (mudlocks in the post). *Making your new four link suspension: First off you need some idea of how long you want the wheelbase to be. You need to make four of each lenght, two different lenghts are needed. I had some carbon arrows lying around and then went to the hunting store to buy insert which the threaded rod could go through. I had cut the arrow shaft to 98mm and 84mm respectively because this gave me a level axle with the standard TLT Eye ends (those rod ends with little round holes in them which can click into the ball ends) Note: Use the stock EYE ends from the TLT kit as they are stonger than the aftermarket ones. I then added the arrow inserts and used Tamiya CA Glue to make sure the were fixed into place. Pushed threaded rod through and cut about 1.4 cm longer than shaft. then trimmed the threader rod until the eye ends sat tight against the arrow shaft. *Now to the rearranging of the suspension mounts etc on the axles: These need to be rearranged due to the fact that I wont be using the existing cantilevel setup on the suspention. What I did was move the bottom mount to the top of the axle and the top to the inside. See pic for details. *Stub (wheel) axle modification: Problem with the Tamiya 50808 Wheel axles are the have a long cup which limits steering radius and they are longer (which is the point). With makes it longer I mean the hole for the pin is far away from the upright meaning youll have to fill that gap for the wheel to sit flush and remove slop from the steering or driving. For this part you will need a Dremel or drill with a cone shape grinding bit and a cutting disc (or hacksaw). Remove +-2mm from the cup of the 50808 Stub axle to shorten it and allow for more steering limit. Then re-do the bevel inside the cup using the cone shaped grinding bit. Do it slowly and move it from side to side as you will reach the centre (back) of the cup with the grinding bits tip, which is a no no. Grind this slowly with no too much pressure untill the cup has roughly the same bevel as it originally had. On the outside where the little pin hole is you can use washers (metal or plastic) to will up the space. Benifits of either: Metal: Adds lower CG weight but needs to be a perfect fit otherwise slop my still occur or binding may occur which is a real bad no-no. Plastic: Not much weight addition, but more forgiving in terms of slop and binding due to it bending and stretching. This is all so far. Will update as i build more: *Still on the table. 1. Mod Dogbone by splicing a tamiya mini dogbone and welding (bracing) it to a metal pipe for correct length. 2. Mod damper mounting for better damper responce. 3. Make Tensioner 4. Fit RS4 Belt MORE PICS WILL BE ADDED

ola peeps. fitted my tlt with a sport tuned for the time being. how must i gear it? stock spur.

i stand corrected, i just know what it does dont understand why they name it turns, i believe it the amount of times the wire gets turned around each thingy of the Armature. yes lower number means more amp draw and faster top speeds (more revs) and higher numbers 27 and upwards means more torque and less revs. Keep in mind motors are not equal, thus a pro 27 turn stock motor can have the same revs as a cheap 21 or even 19 turn.

YOU ARE ALL CHICKEN! fit two mamba max 7700 to it. Make it happen. "if you can dream it, it will come....."

i got a avante 2001, and i love it! black sports tuned motor.

thanx guys, i got the parts from the GOOD STEVE!

ok i got no problem with the four link, gonn amke it myself. now to the dogbone? how long must i make the 4links to fit a junfac tracer dogbone? and where can i get a junfac dgbone wher the shipping wont kill me?

cool ill have a look on the bay. thing is i can make the 4links myslef.

my burnt out before i could test this. i wanted to run a bz motor on a teu101 but attach a bigger heatsinc to it. anyone try this ever? otherwise, for all the newbies, if you esc is getting hot, buy a novak gtx, it doesnt get hot!

cmon that is just cool! what if i wanted to use the stock tlt plates and diffs?

how much is the kit? kan someone draw me a pic of the sliders (i dont know what that is) and maby how to do the driveshaft thing? also where do i mount the shocks if i lenghten it?

ola peeps if i make a 4link on my tlt with arrow shafts and rod, how do i get the driveshaft to fit and make it to the axles? also can i use the stock dampers? (im on a budget) how can i cut the chassis plates to make it a better car?

hill climber, something to go up sandy hils in a hurry!

any1?

im in south africa? how much do you want? paypal waiting and shipping no problem.

Ta03 parts wanted, please, urgent!!!!!! J2 part. 50804? Wheel Axle , just need one! 50643 Dogbone, just need one! please contact me!

Hey guys. Decided to convert my tlt to a hilclimber. Anyting u guys would recommend?

Ok guys and gals, I dont know how much these are worth so please advise me or make me offers. All buggies NIB. 58160 Dirt Thrasher 58275 Mad Fighter 58204 Blazing Star