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MAD RACER

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Everything posted by MAD RACER

  1. Well I just wonder how many critics have driven a Big Wig ? I used to say the same to until I re built one and added a 13T brushless combo. It went way better then I expected against a heap of Re re Super Shots with the same combo. It just felt more stable and planted. I can understand why they weren't popular due to the weight back in the days when battery cap was only 12000 to 14000 mah . Only reason I don't run it more is the rack & pinion set up gets little stones in it all the time. A Re re would be popular at Boondal no doubt
  2. Yeah they were expensive. When I was racing against these PB's the standard kit was $450 with a 2 speed it was another $100 so $550 was the sum in Australia. My Mid was $550 which I was saving for months before it came out. As I was only earning $150 for a 6 day week that was a lot of money. I say it was a lot back then for you guys too. I see the ECO is listed which was the budget version of the mini mustang. So that's some time on.
  3. Just Finished my refurbished look of my Mini Mustang. For running at Boondal I decided to go for Re re Super Shot wheels as they bolt straight up with new Schumacher spike tyres with foam inserts. I hated my first attempt of painting the original sourced shell so I ordered another body from TBG and went to work on a black and gold scheme . Just a basic but a effective look I feel. I refined the saddle pack set up better and it will run a 2 speed down the track with a brushless combo. At this stage it's got a 12t brushless combo geared very low.
  4. Well it's been a long time coming. I simply have run out of room and enjoy building so much I can't stop buying. So I have decided to sell most of my non runners. I never intended to have Queens but for some reason I have close to 30 of them . So I started the ball rolling with my ultra slick Mauri Samurai . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Marui-Samurai-4wd-racer-/252617839308?hash=item3ad13252cc:g:8YIAAOSwMVdYGmEu
  5. I have Torque Tunes in my Super Champ and Nova Fox and is plenty quick enough
  6. Not sure.. I think the losi XX instructions will be the best bet. Mr XW is going through the same thing. He just bought a Hydra Drive for his XXT for a rough blown out track at Boondal and has been told to start with 10k oil too.
  7. I have a few to do or move them on. Nikko Super Sprint with Up Works bottom Brat Chassis & with original Up Works Gold Top mod motor Original Turbo Optima Hot Shot 2 in a very bad way but critical parts are there. Original Frog all there but Lots of work needed Kyosho Gallop Simple don't have time to work on these but I have them LOL
  8. Pargu does new alloy top decks and I saw some on flea bay not long ago.
  9. Hey Snappy. I used my new Losi XX buggy with Hydra Drive fitted at our bumpy track at Boondal yesterday and it was marginal better putting the power down with the Hydra drive fitted. To answer your question I think anything around the 10,000 to 15,000 wt would be on the mark. Cheers
  10. My problem is the price of Kyosho Re re's The Scorpion was ok in price but the Tomahawk at $430 posted was pretty out there and then the Optima at $630 posted is just ridiculous hence why I won't get one. The Turbo will be at a Turbo price . This maybe just a OZ thing but it certainly is a deal breaker for many even though Kyosho's quality is awesome it's a shame.
  11. One of my rarest things is my own Kyosho Le Mans motor collection. I love these motors as I raced with these back in the day. Only like the 540 size as the 550 ( 360 serries weren't legal for racing) Even though I have a few of them too.
  12. Yep AP Mark. from my neck of the woods. I got one set on my original runner too. Custom made by someone in U.S I think and is awesome work. Only 100 sets made at the cost of $100 AU I think. Quite a few yrs ago now. Funny thing is it took some time to shift them even though the Nova wasn't out.
  13. No Snappy. Boondal is a loose surface. So much so I run one grade harder compound tyre up front . EG Losi silver compound Studs up the front and Losi Red studs at the rear. I don't like a over steering set up at all. All my cars are set up like this. Seems to suit me. Most others that run do the same.
  14. Max you need to read. I mentioned what hub carriers they are !!!
  15. Saddle packs has definitely made a difference. It Changes direction so much better and just feels a little more planted. Light weight front diff was only put in due to the cost savings . With brushless motors and Li po's there are no advantages maybe in 17.5 or old brushed motors
  16. Well I built this up about 5yrs ago. It's what I call a Bitsa build but some serious R&D had been put into it over that time. I was going through all my spares that I acquired over time from my Rays & Terror Conquer and relized that I had almost enough parts to build another Top Force. I had a Top Force but was a New Re re and didn't want to run it so this was a good way out. I wrote a list of parts that I thought I needed and went to work in purchasing them. From memory it came to around $150 . I had lots of sticker sheets from JR RC store when he was selling them at stupid low prices and a non genuine shell from Canada. From the out set this build was with our bumpy slippery loose dirt Boondal track in mind. With a few tricks thrown in of my own. Shocks are Yeah Racing 90mm shocks front and Rear. Losi springs and drilled pistons Ball diffs front & rear while the front is a new TA03 light weight diff being used. A Yeah Racing alloy centre shaft being used AE B44 battery tray was grafted in recently for the saddle packs and a low profile steering servo to allow room for the esc to be in the middle of the centre line. A 9T Ez Run combo gives the tyre shredding power. A Yeah Racing Alloy Motor Mount and Diff Cover. Losi Stud tyres on Top Force Wheels. Top Force Universals all round. The rear end is where lots of research and trial & error of components . ( Axels and correct alignment ) I wanted more rear grip then the original rear hubs offer & more adjustability in roll centres . So after 3 different attempts of doing this mod I ended up with a set of Yeah Racing alloy M05 hubs with 2.5d of toe in. ( This is why I love Tamiya parts ) I wanted vertical mounted ball studs too as I feel this aids rear grip as well as the toe in which is critical . Mega traction was the end results with a re drilled Roll centre ( Camber Rod ball stud ) pick up on the rear tower to get better geometry through the suspension range.. It's almost like a trailing arm set up with only a .5d of camber change throughout the suspension travel. So much traction I had to stiffen up the rear end to stop traction rolling. This mod has since been performed on my Rays too. The front end had a Evo copied front tower but it gave too much steering as the shock tower is a little shorter so the original was put back on. So how does it go. Simply awesome.. Has lots of grunt with a good top end. Traction from front to rear is very balanced and very predictable . I recently played with diff set up's to get a better balance and feel there is very little more in tuning to do. Well its a Bitsa but nothing is rough and looks like a original Force so I'm really happy with it.
  17. You are too funny Matt. The shelfs are from Bunnings. Bought over a period of time as my collection grew. They are Hammerlock design but not sure what Brand. Problem I had is the manufactory changed it's design over the years so they look a little different up close to some newer shelfs. Length is approx. 80cm long by 30cm deep. chip board shelfs .Just big enough to hold a 10th scale on a paint cap. 6 Shelfs span the length of our garage . Problem I have every time our panel lift door is open ( Wife's Car ) everyone can see them. Oh well we have insurance
  18. I use Shelfing from the local Hardware store. I have about 10 4 shelf units. All cars are stored on top of paint can lids. All of the top shelf is non runners. Rest are organized into brands like Schumacher, Losi, Marui and of course my Tamiya's. Cars that aren't on the paint caps are in my hobby room awaiting for work. Any parts that I need are ordered then put on the shelf next the car so I know what parts are for what car.
  19. Dude it's not a diff at all more a spool. So what this means is both wheels will drive no matter what. So on soft low grip surfaces like the beach it would be great but almost all other terrain it will want to do donuts all the time and will be understeering a lot ( not wanting to turn) Normally a Frog differential set was a good up grade for the Brat. I guess that's why the re re Brat has the Frog diff as standard
  20. Arrgh I can't stop but buying has slowed right down due to space and less funds to play with. I do know if Kyosho brings out a Re re Turbo Optima I will get one due to being my first race car. I do have a Turbo Optima as a runner but the Re re's always perform better.
  21. I have one but not as a runner. From what I can recall it wasn't fantastic. Did the Triumph come after or before the PRO X ?? It was a real pain in the butt to restore the front shocks are medium size Gold shocks which are really rare . I custom fabricated a alloy top deck and motor guard as these were missing and gave up looking.
  22. Nope that's how they come. You place the wing on top of the body mounts. Body one first of course. Not really a good look I thought. I used some Losi XX4 wing mounts and mounted in the shock tower. Then raised the back of the rear body mounts so the body looked more in place with the Optima Mid wing then painted it up to match the body.
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