MAD RACER

Looks like there are quite a few of us at Boondal ordering these. Boondal CAT XL Ginger Cup coming with action pic's.

Ooops I didn't see this thread. Yep I want one for sure.

Yep I did a Team CRP FX10 front end conversion on a Super Hornet and it was a night mere get all the geometry correct. The Dermal was used every step along the way.

I have used H/K standard servo's with no problems at $3.50 I order 5 at a time Spend a little more and get ball raced version too at https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hk15138-standard-analog-servo-4-3kg-0-17sec-38g.html

Wow. Glad I got mine from Rc Mart at $330 That's insane

That's a tight budget But you can do it. It will be more particle to go brushless then brushed . Brush motors aren't as good as they use to be I feel since they aren't so common and a good ESC for brushed are hard to come buy. You can buy a 13t brushless combo cheap and still have money for a battery. Being in a 4wd a brush motor will be on the edge all the time. Brushless motor combo something like this but a 13T will be more then enough. Just look around. Yes ESC has reverse and is programmable as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-60A-ESC-Brushless-Speed-Controller-9T-4400KV-Motor-F-1-10-1-12-Car-Truck/182129783878?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40757%26meid%3Df0b9e3a8621e4298afaaec3af829eb07%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D182197346210 Battery is a Ni Mi but your charger should be fine. Your charger will have slightly higher delta value but should be fine unless you want to buy a cheap li po capable charger that does all types of cells and as budget allows buy a few li po's later on. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-stick-pack-sub-c-3000mah-7-2v-nimh-high-power-series.html With Brushless you can gear the motor lower so it want produce heaps of Torque and as you want more speed start gearing up. No need to up grade. No burnt out brushes or com and more efficient. Brushed ESC that's good is a Hobbywing Quickrun.

I will check for you. Happy 2017 to you to.

I run mostly Trackstar ESC's & motors. For a 8.5 a 80A esc is better suited. I have quite a few Turbo Esc's ( boosting with timing) with the 8.5's and is just suited for 2wd . Esc states max is a 10.5 But that is in a 4wd. So it maybe just OK in a 2wd without hard gearing ratios. Fan & open vents in the body.

Grasshopper has it too. Yep to allow max travel for the servo arm to allow full throttle with the 3 step MSC

Well the plan was to run a hard case shorty so I cut up the foam case for the battery . I painted up the shell then packed it all up to build while on on our vacation. The problem is the wires exit on top of the battery so no room for the wires unless I run the battery pushed all the one side but that will affect the side to side balance. My smaller 3s soft pack is looking like the go. Maybe others can chime in. Showdog what do you run in batteries?

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I did not use any grease on any pivot points as I know how Tamiya likes to over use the grease. Mmmm maybe I will just run a dirty old Hornet or Grasshopper on the beach and don't care so much as we all know this is not a cheapie. It's the radio case that really drew me on this as a beach runner but after hearing you all I'm not so sure now.

Well I finished my X mas present to me. My 2010 Sand Scorcher. Was a interesting build and I now have 2 SRB's in my stable. Nothing special just a Torque Tunw with a Hobby wing Quickrun running 2 to 3s for beach duties and Alloy wheels. Should be nice on the beach. I sealed up the gearboix cases, Gear cover & motor cap for light water running on the beach.

Well I finished my X mas present to me. My 2010 Sand Scorcher. Was a interesting build and I now have 2 SRB's in my stable. Nothing special just a Torque Tunw with a Hobby wing Quickrun running 2 to 3s for beach duties and Alloy wheels. Should be nice on the beach. I sealed up the gearboix cases, Gear cover & motor cap for light water running on the beach.

AAaaaah now this is showing my age lol. Ok to me these items are pretty much the same from my earlier days of r/c. Tamiya Box wrench Tamiya small cans of PS paints Tamiya style wheel nuts are now a industry standard. 540 motors are still the same dimensions ( which is great for modern electrics in a vintage car) Servo's are still the basic dimensions for 90% of makes out there. The Futaba rx plug is now a industry standard ( for good reason too) Battery foot print of a 7.2v is still very close with the new lipo. ( Yes li po a re a little longer but not by much) What hasn't changed for you. ??

We have quite a few regular guys now with all different rides from vintage to modern. Always great to see you Yogi. You are full of interesting subjects & ideas. We always welcome anybody as it's a public venue as Yogi said. Yes Matt would love to see you. I raced in W.A for 2 yrs back in the late 80's. Perth is awesome and have lots of great memories from their. I always reflect on it. Showing my age now LOL.

more pic's

Thanks guys. Wow that will drive me nuts Klausen. I guess that's European weather for you. Yes Matt it's pretty much stock. Has a Torque Tune motor running a normal li po stick battery with Grasshopper Black edition wheels and Hornet/ Frog rear spikes. It's great in a straight line and that's it with no diff LOL. I just bought myself a 210 Sand Scorcher to run on the beach as the electrics are enclosed. It's only taken me 6 yrs to get both. LOL. You gota love these for what they are or don't get one I say. Mmmmm maybe that's why it took me so long and the fact they aren't cheap.

Well the last meet at Boondal for the yr So I brought out my Re re Super Champ out for a run. I love these things in their environment. Can't wait to build my new Sand Scorcher for a beach runner.

The thing is that in the SRB's it has to be a sealed end bell style motor like the torque Tune/ Sport versions due to the end bell bolts up to support the motor. Therfore a Dirt Tune won't fit as far as I can tell. My S/S box states only use the kit motor or a 540J version.

What parts are you chasing . Don't give up. Rear dog bones. Shocks all round Diff cups Might be able to help you with the above. I have re re Avante parts left over as I updated my shocks all round to Hi caps and diffs to ball diffs.

On a Re re the Front are 78mm, Rear are 98mm I have Yeah racing shocks fitted on my Original runner which are front 80mm & Rear 100mm

I used a top force body on my Ray with only a front body mount screw placed in the front gearbox brace. ( Pic has no front pin in but that's where it is) Looks great with no other problems

Well a update is order. As I'm selling most of my non running cars and projects due to no time and space this Nikko was on the bay for less then 24hrs and it has a new home in Italy. Will be posting her of tomorrow. Oh yeah the Brat chassis was advertised with it.

Just curious has anyone bought on these from Hobbyking. Made by TeamC and looks to be great value. Thinking of getting one.

Put big plastic washes under and on top of the rear body mount as it will tear apart after a few good crashes. I made some up from the scrap Lexan left over from trimming the body. that's what mine did.