MAD RACER
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Posts posted by MAD RACER
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Ok I have a few of these motors in my possession from various kits I bought.
I installed one in my Frog and was a nice match. Very torquey .
I have since opened the can up and added bearings which has helped it's performance all round.
Anyone else like these motors???
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I have been told in a few weeks.
First batch totally sold out. I wonder if that's a 2nd batch.
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The Hub Carriers are custom made to extend the track of the front end and to allow Hornet steering knuckles to be used as the re re Frog carriers come apart. I used Fox links but can't it was a mix & match of the rods to get the correct lenghth. NOT a straight bolt up job. Hot Shot Ball studs were used as well to stop bump steer.
You can read more here.
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I was thinking of buying this for my Big Wig.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132036176420?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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All my frog's and Brat I did this.
Centered servo. Dubro 440 rod ends. Fox steering links and ball cups.
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Matt are you talking about the alloy rear shock tower?
Mine bolted straight up with no binding.
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My Big Wig is built for Boondal.
Fitted up a Alloy rear shock tower, Rear universal shafts, cvd's up the front, Hot Shot Re re centre drive shaft. 10T motor for now but a 12T will be fitted up once it arrives.
Such a awesome build & quality.
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17 hours ago, matman said:
Got my Boomerang shock towers . Thanks @MAD RACER .
Glad you got them Matt.
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Yes Max "WHATEVER"
Then again I haven't ever busted a Universal. " Not saying you have MAX"
Guess I don't know Jack.
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If you change the drive shafts from the original,New drive cups as well as re re gearbox cases have to be purchased as the C lips and E clips are different from the original to re re. .
Top force uni's rubbish. That's news to me as my Top force has never failed me or my Boomer or Big Wig and I run 12t brushless and lower. Then again I race on dirt only.
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No your talking.
Love it wish we raced on a proper track. Boondal is like a speed bowl.
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I have always wanted a Kyosho Gallop since I was 14 but skipped over it to buy the newer model the Optima.
Still it has always held a place in my soul so after all these yrs I have embarked on getting a runner for Boondal. So this is my re build of the last version of this chassis being a Gallop MK2. I'm doing my best on this runner to be a true good example of this awesome 4WD & Steer machine. Not a build thread but took some pic's along the way as there are very few runners . Spent a long time cleaning all the parts and some polishing .
Chassis torn down and the re build has started with cleaned components.
Bushings removed and replaced with a bearing kit. This was very painful as the bronze bushings were glued in from the factory making it very difficult to extract out of the alloy housings and hubs.
For power a Kyosho Motor had to go in so I bought a new Re Re Lemans motor as the magnets will be strong compared to a 30yr old Le Mans.
To my horror the new expensive Le Mans was only a 30T and had bushings. For those who know the old Le Man's motors this is the same spec as a Le Mans 600E. So I knocked the bushings out and replaced them with some bearings
For wheels and tires I kept the original wheels but the original tyres were shot so after some thinking I decided on using Tamiya Super Shot wheels at the rear and Hot Shot tires up the front. I chose these as no foam inners had to be used. I had to cut them down to suit the 1.7" rears and 1.9" fronts. You can see how much had to be cut and shunted.
I had to ,make my own steering linkages as they were missing. Used a alloy servo arm and Tamiya fox bits to do the front link while a used some 3mm rod with eyelets for the rear. First attempt.
Found out the rear steering link interfered with the vintage esc so this is the 2nd version
Custom made front numberplate done and is now taking shape. Hope the body shell turns out.
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Arrrgh where is my Big Wig Mr Rc Mart....
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Hi Matt.
Yep I got mine within 2 weeks. They are very nicely made and bolts straight up. Nice to have some shock adj available too.
Ordered another one for my Big Wig Re re.
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Arrrrgh this thread caused me some serious withdraw pains.
Just bought one now. So that's 2 new builds for my workshop with the CAT XL been ordered as well.
Oh well I have a original runner and now a re re runner. They drive so much better then a Super Shot I feel but always drove mine with a little care unlike my Shots in our 13t Class BUT now the Big Wig Re re will be driven to win the class LOL.
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Great to see.
I have 2 concerns.
1st the Quick run with 8.4v. Mine gave up on it's first run with a torque tune on 3s. In the spec's it says up to 3 s. Being on 8.4 it's lower voltage then 3s. So it should be fine.
2nd I can't believe Tamiya has kept the flimsy piano wire as the centre shaft. They updated the Hot Shot/ Super Shot but on the Boomer and Big Wig it's not the updated dog bone set up.Which is the same so no extra tooling needed.
Really Tamiya!!!
Glad I have a spare set for when I get my Big Wig.
Just my thoughts.
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Great to see thanks.
I will buy one soon.
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Yes Matt.
Unfortunately it wasn't as successful as I hoped.
The electric's failed. Haven't gone through it but either the Quickrun or motor let go. The small 3S battery is a suspect too.
Apart from that it was not bad on the beach at all.
Been busy restoring a Gallop Mk2
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On 27/02/2017 at 10:31 PM, WillyChang said:
which 3 alloy upgrades? I found 6 listed for "Avante"
2001 arm mount
2001 shock towers
2001 chassis & top deck
2011 rod ends e2 e3
2011 steering idlers
alloy wing...?!
Rod ends in alloy... Is that only to make them look same as the other ends? Otherwise I've never seems them break, not without a ton of other breakage everywhere else too.
Same with steering idlers in alloy... plastic works fine, not a common weak spot; it don't look like they've put ballbearings to ride on which would be improvement.
Real & only weak spot on Avante is plastic steering knuckles, their ears get knocked off quite easily. YR once made alloy knuckles back when Av2011 got re-re'd but haven't seen many around since; YR was good value.
The O-hub it screws too also gets bent in the original potmetal but rere is now billet alloy. Shouldn't need upgrading.
Front gearbox shock ears also get knocked off quite common but that's similar risk to most other buggies.
And those big black hubcap wheel nuts, they're useless - only good for looks... get knocked twice and they start splitting! Replace them with normal flanged nyloc nuts if you're racing.
My Avante 2011 has had very little track time BUT the rear suspension trailing link alloy joint has already
QuoteI have ran my 2011 Avante very little and mostly to get it race worthy. To my surprise the alloy ball joints from rear trailing link flogged out within that time. Had to buy a bag of them from e bay which cost a small fortune. The RD steering set was a must have to me as well as a heap of other bits to make it drivable lol. Awesome buggy.
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Yeeepie
At last someone is doing CNC rear alloy shock towers for Boomerangs and Big Wigs.
My Re Re Boomer has been sidelined due to a broken rear shock tower. Stupid prices on the bay for one so waited for the Re re re of the Boomer but not many around and again not cheap. Just about to fabricate one myself then saw a Alloy CNC rear tower on the bay for $30au posted so ordered it. Looks nice too.
Can't wait to get it on the track again.
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The trackstar Turbo 80a is only rated to a 10.5T
In saying that I run 8.5T motors in 2wd and stadium truck with no problems. I dare say running in a 4wd or a on road car this will be to much especially once some Turbo & Boost is dialled in as this really ups the amp draw. Again this depends on how hard you are gearing the motors for performance. My 8.5T goes about like a 6.5t with aggressive gearing and timing tuned in.
I have a BSR 4wd pro which came with a Turbo 80A and a 10.5t combo from hobbyking and with some Boost & Turbo timing it goes as hard as 8.5T but I feel I'm on the limit of the ESC. My 22/4 has a 120A turbo with a 6.5T motor and is just nuts.
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Yep great value servo's.
A lot of Boondal guys are using them too. That track is really rough at times and we all run fast motors too.
So they are tough enough.
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The Program card is a must.
Don't be scared of playing with settings either. I have a awesome set up on my Turbo esc's with lots of punch and top end.
I run this set in all my Turbo's.
The thing to remember is Boost setting is Mid Range power curve and Turbo is top end timing.
Initial set up is no boost or Turbo timing. A little different to calibrate.
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I have 5 trackstar Turbo esc's and a 120 gen2 version in my 22/4 with a 6.5.
All are a brilliant and I use a 8.5t trackstar motors with the 80a with some turbo and boosting timing is just unreal.
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What type of aluminium does tamiya use
in General discussions
Posted
Tamiya must have patents on cheese for alloy pinions at least.