nickc

thats good. You know quite a bit about TA04s right? I notice they have too much weight on the back and Im battling to get it to handle well at all tracks, tends to understeer. Any suggestions? or tricks with the car? thanks

Tamiya Corner markers & Cones are useless, go to your nearest farmer and get some Plough Discs from him. Paint them orange or something, and they will NEVER move, they are very heavy, even a gas car won't move them. have fun!

Since the EVO 4 is coming out soon, will the TB-02 also be replaced by a TB-03 or TB-04 (to match EVO 4)? This is pretty crazy since the EVO3 is a 2002 model & TB-02 2003 model. And both are excellent cars, no need to replace them yet, I think.

sorry about the tone, but if you call a sarcastic comment like : I give up.....I guess you know more than Tamiya. as him/you admitting he/you was wrong? well then..... who knows

I would go for the M03 as it tends to be less sloppy, and has more direct steering than the M01. Also much simpler overall design, less to break.

To: theMonster Download the parts lists for the TB-02 and TB-01. Print them, pull out you pink marker pen and play find the evo 3 parts. The TB-02 has 4 and many more has hop-ups and the TB-01 has 0, ZERO, ZIP, NIL, get it? Its more correct to say that the TB-02 is a sport version of the EVO 3, than the EVO 3 a hopped up version of the TB-02, since the TB-02 is a year newer. READ the tamiyausa article, PROPERLY!

I would say its the One-Way. A one-way allows all for tyres to accelerate, but only the rear tyres to brake. So when you brake the rear tyres may be locking up causing your car to slide. Try the car without the one-way

The reason why the EVO 3 ended up in the TB-01 section is because the EVO 3 come out BEFORE the TB-02

theMonster - The TB-02 is definitely a downgraded EVO 3, the yank who put it under TB-01 section must of been smoking something. If u read that setup & tips article, it says ALL parts from EVO3 fit the TB-02, also do yourself a favour and download the parts list for the TB-02 and notice how quite a few of the parts are already from the EVO 3.

what does that teach you? Dont use hotmail! Get something else, hotmail is slow and unreliable. Even my local free email site is better, www.webmail.co.za

As far as I know, NiMH cells come charged, or at least slightly charged already, so I think discharge them, let them cool, then charge them normally at 3A for a prolonged life or 6A for punch but short life. Also Apex, and cheap chargers CLAIM they can charge NiMH batteries, but this is NOT true! get a Novak Millenium or Ionic which have a special NiMH charge options. You can also get a cheaper Graupner that does it too.

I live in SA and I use Type A tyres quite a lot, obviously not serious rubber, but I find that the Type As can still pretty well with an air temperature of 30 degrees Celcius. Havent tried Type B. You might also want to try the M2 Slicks, they are soft slicks, were used to win the Tamiya Worlds GT1 class. You can then also get the Medium Narrow Type A and Type B2 tyres.

Come on Heinrich, you gotta get the Losi! Anyone want a Losi XXX-S ??? []

I reckon go for the TB02 its only 1 year old, versus the TA04 being 4 years old, and soon to be replaced. After a few hop-ups it will be better then the TA04 in the handling department.

Racing is picking up in durbs these days! check out www.cmcc.co.za and www.hobbyspecialists.co.za

I also live in SA, Im from sunny Durbs

both the Johnson 540 and the Mabuchi 540 motors are 27turn with zero degrees of timing. So essentially they are the same, it just boils down to quality and consistency in manufacturing.

I know these shims are for the TA04: 53585 OP585 ö3mm Shim Set *10 x 3 types 53586 OP586 ö4mm Shim Set *10 x 3 types 53587 OP587 ö5mm Shim Set *10 x 3 types 53588 OP588 ö10mm Shim Set *10 x 3 types but what do they mean by 3mm, 4mm, 5mm.... is that the width, diamter...??? I want to remove the slop with the wheel axle, so will but shims between the wheel hex/pin and the upright. What should I use?

I suggest the TB-01, because you can get special rally parts for it to keep out the dirt. Tamiya have a rally kit out using the TB-01 with a subaru body.

I generally but blue hard springs on the front, and yellow medium springs on the back. Same with the oils, #50 back and #70 front. I find this normally balances the car well, giving you slight understeer. But remember it all depends!

I have a good gap between the spur and pinion, and I don't even have the belt tensioner touching the belt yet. Maybe the car just needs to be worn in. What do you think about those bearings below and above the rear belt? the ones the belt runs against? are they even needed?

I just recently bought a brand new TA04-R, and noticed it is pretty noisy compared to what Im used to. I was just wondering how I could quiten down the drive chain, and make it more efficient? thanks

You should be able to, just make sure you get the EVO 3 aluminium motor mount as well! Check www.tamiyausa.com and click on the TB-02 article on the front page.

Basically you want your car to reach its top speed 3/4 of the way down the main straight. But for referance you must work out the Final Drive Ratio, which is FinalDriveRatio = SpurTeeth / PinionTeeth * Internal ratio. You can find the Internal ratio of your car in the manual or on the net. For a Johnson 540 motor you want a final drive of about 5.5, for a stock about 6.0, and for a modified about 6.5 - 7.0.

I remember reading a comment by a TRF Racer, and he recommended the Nissan Skyline R34.