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markbt73

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About markbt73

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  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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    PDX, OR, USA

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  1. Argh... no "good" place to run on-road cars, no real reason to get this, and yet... I want it. Just for the mechanical-ness of it. Curse you, Tamiya... how am I going to justify both this AND the Kyosho Fantom? 'Cause obviously, I can't choose between them...
  2. Oh, that's just lovely... can I get one without the body? All I want to do is stare at that chassis... As far as the chain rubbing on things, I am a little surprised there isn't a lower chain guide under the battery. The bottom side of the chain is what will be in tension. But the chain is pretty smooth, so maybe it just doesn't generate enough wear for it to be a problem? I don't recall any issues with my Kawada.
  3. Interesting choice... wonder if it will be a straight-up reissue or a modern chassis reviving the name? A true re-re with chain drive and everything would be really cool. Never had one, but I did have a Kawada Wolf (also 1/12 4WD chain drive) and that was really interesting to mess around with...
  4. Very cool! I did something similar to mine a while ago, with standard WW2 wheels and tires. (And yeah, they rubbed a bit.)
  5. You'll find it extremely difficult, if not impossible, to fit a different 380-size motor than the one that comes in the kit. The pinion is pressed onto the shaft, and it needs that plastic adapter plate. The gearbox is really designed for a 540-size motor, and they adapted the 380 to it to create the entry-level Grasshopper. But a standard 540-size motor (ie, nearly every aftermarket RC motor) and a standard 18-tooth 32-pitch pinion is what it's really designed for. If you're used to the kit-supplied 380 motor, a Torque Tuned 540 will make it feel like a rocket. Just do that, and don't bother trying to mess around with a different 380.
  6. I just gotta say: the JPS livery is still one of the prettiest race car paint jobs of all time...
  7. I've given up trying to classify them. A runner is a car that is currently moving under its own power and accepting commands from a transmitter in my hands. Everything else is just part of the collection. I might run them, I might not, they might be ready to run at a moment's notice, they might not, they might be covered in dirt from the last time they were run, or they might be covered in dust because they've been on the same shelf for ages. I might, on any given day, decide to pull a "nice shelfer" down and go run it through a mud puddle, or take a "basher" and disassemble it completely and put it into a storage bin, or rebuild it as something completely different. I usually don't do those things, but I have given myself permission to do so if I choose. I've decided to do it this way because nothing in my collection is particualrly rare or especially valuable, and I never want to feel like something is too "precious" to enjoy. I can run a car, or sit back and admire it, or just walk by and squish the suspension up and down, or take it apart and repaint it, or whatever. It's very freeing, and it keeps me from buying too many new kits. Nothing is "finished," so I'm not looking for that next project. If I want a new project, I take a old car and do something new with it. And that may or may not involve it moving under its own power.
  8. Reminds me of the old joke: "How do you make a small fortune in racing? Start with a large fortune..." I have a couple of cars that haven't been run yet, but I don't like to sell things without seeing them in action first. The only two I can think of that I never ran were an RC10CE and a Nichimo Exceed. The RC10 I built from all-new spare parts, and the Exceed was new-built when I boguht it, and so frail that I didn't dare run it.
  9. All I've spent on hobby stuff so far is $30 for a vintage Hubley model kit. One of my favorite local toy/collectible/junk shops posted on Facebook that they were keeping all their employees on the payroll and ramping up their eBay selling, so I wanted to buy a kit from them to show my support. And it's a beauty: Made in the 1960s, nearly all die-cast metal parts, supposed to be a real challenge to build correctly. It's going in the stash/collection "to be built someday." If I spend anything more on hobby stuff during this time, it will be paint and glue and supplies like that. No need or want for a new RC kit now, or for quite a while, actually.
  10. Nope. Right in the recycle bin they go. I don't save candy bar wrappers either. The good stuff is inside the packaging. I have one kit box, for a Futaba FX10, that I can't bring myself to get rid of because it's "vintage," and it's like an albatross. Takes up a ton of space, and all that's in it is leftovers/spares for the FX10. I keep thinking I should disassemble the car and put the pieces back in the box, so I have a reason to keep the box. I do have a bunch of NIB static kits, some quite old, and those boxes I'll keep. But most of those models won't be built for years and years anyway, and they're much smaller boxes.
  11. It's just annoying. It feels like they tried to dig too deep into their parts bin instead of tooling up for new pieces for it, so you have things like axle housings made of 6 pieces of plastic, and they need a lot of trimming and cleanup to fit properly. (Edit - it reminds me of the last couple years of Associated RC10 production, when those molds finally started to wear out.) And some of the hardware isn't great; a lot of times I felt like my hex driver was going to skip tightening up a screw. But the overall quality is pretty good, and the specs are decent. The steel driveshafts and CVD axles are a nice touch. Tires are good, and the shocks are nice, but look too big to be scale. And the chassis layout is nice, with a Gmade-style battery cradle up front. If you do go for it, download the instructions and get whatever ball bearings you need for it first. It's mostly 5x10mm and 10x15mm if I recall. And Loctite every screw going into metal. (Trust me.)
  12. Is the Carisma you're looking at a kit? If so, be aware that it is a PAIN to build. Lots of flashing on the plastic parts, ridiculous multi-piece axle design, and 2mm screws threaded into soft plastic everywhere. And no bearings; it's all bronze bushings. Once you get it together, it drives well, but it's not a fun kit to build. If it's an RTR, disregard the above, unless you plan to tear it down to install bearings.
  13. If you like doing paint and decals, then I would think any of the touring cars with racing livery would be good. Lots and lots of decals to apply in, say, the TT02 Audi Quattro or Alfa 155 kits. They don't come with a driver/interior kit like the old ones did, but it is available separately. The M-chassis Fiat Abarth 1000 is a good one too. It has an exposed engine to paint and detail...
  14. That's definitely a good deal! Makes me wish I had some spare cash, actually; I'd grab one myself. The CC01 has been around for decades, and its strengths and weaknesses are well-documented if you search around a bit. In a nutshell, it'll never keep pace with a "serious" scale truck (SCX10 or similar) but it's incredibly durable and easy to tinker with. Shame they chose to make the Defender body out of Lexan, but for the price...
  15. To be honest, if that attitude of "just have fun and don't worry about performance numbers" is where their designs come from, then I'm behind them 100%. I've tried the speed thing, both in RC and 1:1, and it's just too much work. Too many things to go wrong. Too many things to think about. I would rather just find a patch of loose dirt and do donuts than worry about all the baggage that comes with chasing a speed milestone or setting up a perfect race car. And you can do that just fine with plastic dogbones, aluminum pinions, silver-can motors, and yes, even plastic bushings.
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