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About markbt73

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  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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  1. It's not really as simple as which wheels are driven, comparing the two. The way the chassis is set up and tuned, the type of tires it has, and the surfaces you're running on all are at least aas important, if not more so. Most "fun"-type 2WD cars are designed towards the safe side, with some understeer tuned in, to make them easier to drive. But you can easily tune a 2WD car to turn in sharper, and it's a simple matter of adding power to make the rear wheels break loose and oversteer. On the other hand, mechanically locking the front and rear wheels together through a 4WD system induces understeer anyway, so they're tuned a little more aggressively to counteract that. But by changing suspension settings and tires, you can make either one handle pretty much however you want. It used to be that 2WD cars accelerated a lot quicker on hard surfaces, because they have half the number of spinning parts in the drivetrain, so they had less drag and less "flywheel" effect to overcome, but I'm not sure that it matters much anymore, with modern motors and more efficient designs. 4WD cars have (and always have had) the advantage on loose surfaces, just because they have twice the traction. It doesn't matter how much power you have, it only matters how much power you can control. Which brings up another issue: differential type and setting. You've already discovered, it sounds like, that a "2WD" car with an open differential is actually only one-wheel-drive; if one rear wheel loses traction and starts spinning, the other sits there doing nothing. Both rear tires need traction in order to move the car forward. But if you have a "limited slip" differential (which you can easily turn your Titan's diff into), then both wheels always receive at least some power, and you'll get stuck a lot less often. And if you're running on really slippery surfaces, you can lock both rear wheels together for no differential action at all, but that tends to make the handling squirelly on anything but loose dirt, sand, or snow. As to your question of whether you "need" both: if you're really curious about digging in to the science of tuning these things, and want to learn about the engineering that goes into them, then yes, you need as many different varieties of cars to mess around with and learn from as possible. If that is your aim, then you should be taking them apart, learning what makes them work, experimenting with different suspension settings and tires, and keeping a detailed log of what changes you make and how it affects the car. It's a deep dive, but one well worth taking if the subject really interests you. I have learned so much about how "real" cars handle from messing around with RC cars, and that knowledge has helped me out on more than one occasion. On the other hand, if you just want to drive around an RC vehicle and have fun with it (and there's nothing wrong with that either), then you'll probably be happier with the 4WD truck, just because it's more capable in more places.
  2. The DT02 diff doesn't, but the TA02/03 ball diffs drop right in. I once bought someone's retired club racer TL01, and it had TA03 ball diffs at both ends.
  3. OK, see if these will work for you. If not, I can scan it with the good scanner at work on Monday.
  4. Yeah, but at least those you build. It's one thing to spend hours and hours building and detailing something, run it once or twice to see it in motion, and then keep it safe on the shelf. It's quite another to take something out of a box, mess around with it for a while, and then let it gather dust. One I'm willing to spend the money on, and the other I'm not. But if Hasbro had the guts to offer this as an unassembled kit, that would be a whole other story...
  5. I have them at home, I'll see if my wife's scanner is working. If not, I'll try to take a photo of them and see if it's readable.
  6. It's one of those things that I think would be insanely cool for about a day, and then you'd run out of stuff to do with it, and it'd just be a very expensive curio.
  7. ...and costs as much as a Bruiser. https://kotaku.com/hasbro-unveils-700-self-transforming-optimus-prime-rob-1846650442
  8. Yes, same as Hornet/Grasshopper bearings. Nine 1150 (11mm x 5mm) and one 850 (8mm x 5mm).
  9. You posted looking for advice about a puppy without posting any photos of said puppy? I'm sorry; I can't help you.
  10. That looks to me like more than wear. Usually the heavy wear pattern makes the teeth pointier, it doesn't knock the points off. That looks more like stripping caused by too much gap between the teeth. You said you bought it used like that? Did you count the teeth on that pinion? I have a sneaking suspicion it has 16 teeth.
  11. Do me a favor, then, and run the alloy pinion gear for a while and then post a photo of it. I'm trying to find a solution that doesn't involve everyone throwing out brand-new parts all the time.
  12. Tamiya alloy pinion gears tend to wear faster than the steel or brass (or hard-anodized aluminum) gears used by other companies. Some people (like me) feel it's not a huge issue, and just replace them with steel when they wear out, but many folks won't install them at all and just install a steel pinion from the start. The standard kit-supplied ceramic grease seems to be the culprit in causing the accelerated wear. Instead of providing a cushion between the gear teeth as it should, the grease grinds away at the bare aluminum gear, and the aluminum particles stay suspended in the grease, turning the grease into a metallic grinding paste that wears out the gear very quickly. (Oddly, this effect doesn't seem to wear down the nylon spur gear hardly at all.) This led me to think that the alloy gears might survive better with different lubrication, or none at all. So I've been experimenting. On one car (MF-01X chassis), I left the pinion/spur mesh dry, no lubricant at all. The pinion gear seems to be holding up quite well; in fact, after 20 or 30 battery packs' worth of running, it looks new. On my newly-built G6-01 King Yellow, I applied a single squirt of dry powdered white grease to the pinion. I'll report back after it's had a few more runs. But not using the grease Tamiya includes seems to be the key to pinion gear longevity.
  13. You're off to a great start, it looks like. And the cracks in the bumpers aee nothing that can't be fixed with a little Shoe-Goo and reinforced with fiberglass tape. And hey, if they get really wrecked, that's just an excuse to try some new body styles...
  14. First, welcome to the madness... Second, you have chosen well. The Sand Viper shouldn't need anything except the right tires and some careful setup work; it's a decent entry-level racer right from the box. The Rising Fighter is more of a beginner's model, sort of a spiritual successor to the Grasshoppers and Hornets of old. It's a great way to learn to drive, though. I would recommend you replace the plastic bushings with ball bearings for longevity and efficiency, and turn your son loose with it. Don't bother with any other upgrades until he has worn through the kit-supplied tires. If he can master that car, in stock form, he'll likely end up a better driver than half the people at the track with "real race cars." And both are plenty durable if you stick to the kit-supplied motors, which, again, you should do, to start anyway.
  15. The only pattern I've seen is that if they bring back a platform, they bring out a bunch of models on it, usually with the exception of one or two. All the SRBs except the Ford, for example, or all the early 4WD buggies except the Super Sabre and Hotshot 2. So if you ever do see a King Cab re-release, the Toyota would be likely to follow, because they're the only two models on that chassis. I would have said that once a body shell appears on a newer chassis there's no chance of a re-release of the original, but the Blackfoot shot down that theory. And makes the lack of an SRB Ford even more puzzling, since it's literally just grabbing parts out of the right bins at this point. Actually, the more I think about it... Nope, I think their decision process involves a dartboard and a large bottle of sake.
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