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About markbt73

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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  • Location
    PDX, OR, USA
  • Interests
    RC cars (natch), classic MG sports cars, electric guitar, vinyl, and other stuff with more moving parts than electronics

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  1. Huh, cool. I've never seen any of my models once they left my hands. There are several I would certainly jump at, if they came back around again. I did have a chance to buy back a 1:1 car my mom had owned many years earlier (a 1980 VW Dasher diesel hatchback), but I decided to get something with more than 48 horsepower. Still kind of regret it... that Dasher was a neat old car. Glad the RC10 got there OK. Let me know if you need any parts; I'm sorting through a big plastic tub of RC10 bits now.
  2. Also up for sale... Tamtech Gear GB-01 Hornet, plus a giant lot of parts. Chassis modified to fit a lipo battery I had, but I'm including a NIP chassis you can replace it with. Correct Tamiya ESC, with Deans connector soldered on. No-name servo, but it fits and works fine. You'll need to find the "J" parts tree if you want to put the correct Tamiya servo in there. Paint/decal job isn't great, I did this quickly with the intention of this being my "grab & go run" car. Ended up not running it much. Looks OK for a runner. Has the optional bumper and side guards, so it looks like a proper Hornet. No idea what these are worth, but $120 sounds fair, I think, with all the extra parts.
  3. Ooh, good topic... I don't have time for a lengthy response right now (gotta take the dog to the vet in a few minutes), but I have written about this before... https://dustylexan.wordpress.com/2019/07/13/the-modeler/ https://dustylexan.wordpress.com/2017/10/11/just-run-the-thing/ https://paintandcementnotincluded.wordpress.com/2018/08/08/the-draw-of-old-unassembled-model-kits/ (BTW, I still haven't run the Optima, and now I'm thinking I won't...)
  4. Hey Tamiya, if you're listening, and you want ideas for new bodies for this chassis, I have two words for you. Ready? Lada Niva. Hard plastic, please. Come on, you know you want to...
  5. "1/10 scale" tends to be a classification of vehicle size rather than an actual scale. The CC01 is nominally a 1/10 scale chassis, so any body made for it will be listed as such. The original run of bodies for that chassis (Pajero, Jeep, Isuzu, Honda CR-V) are actually really close to 1/10 scale. But it wouldn't surprise me if some of the others drifted off that standard. The same thing happens with other lines; a Mini Cooper and a VW Golf Mk1 are both 210mm-wheelbase M-chassis bodies, but in real life a Golf will dwarf a Mini. Same thing with the Blackfoot and Monster Beetle; the Beetle is obviously a much smaller car than a Ford F150, but they're roughly the same size body, and both listed as "1/10 scale." I wouldn't worry too much about it; I usually try to focus on getting the details and the "look" right and not focusing too much on the math. In fact, sometimes, if you try for actual scale proportions, the car will end up looking too tall, too narrow, and having wheels that are far too small. A little fudging of proportions seems to be necessary, both for function and form.
  6. The Hornet (and Grasshopper for that matter) definitely deserves a mention. With those decal sheets, it was easy to make it look "just like the box" with one can of paint (or none at all, for the Grasshopper), and the orange and yellow stripes looked great with other colors as well, so if your neighbor already had a black Hornet, you could paint yours blue (or whatever) to tell them apart, but it was still clearly a Tamiya Hornet. Just a fantastic, brilliant, simple design. And neither cow spots nor flames really improve upon it.
  7. I thought about bifocals, but something like 70-80% of the time, I don't wear glasses at all. I'm just a little nearsighted (20/30 in one eye and 20/50 in the other), so I wear glasses to drive, but not at the computer or watching TV. I got the readers for reading building plans at work, but now I think I'll wear them working on RC cars and models, too. Maybe it will improve my detail-painting ability... but probably not.
  8. Earlier today I was working at my bench, removing tires from one set of rims to mount on another, and I had trouble seeing the tiny screw holes properly. So I reluctantly went upstairs and got the reading glasses my wife made me buy last year. Sigh. I guess I've added a new "tool" to my list of essentials. At least I can see to line up the screw holes now.
  9. I don't need it, but I can tell you what it is and what it does: BEC (battery eliminator circuit) switch, for use with the old mechanical speed controls. Plugs into the little red plug on the MSC, and steps the voltage down from 7.2 to 6 volts. These were a HUGE deal back in the day; it meant you didn't need 4xAA batteries for the receiver and servos any more. I had one in my first Blackfoot, and it was a bona-fide hop-up at the time. Right after this, radio manufacturers started including a BEC circuit in the receiver, and nowadays all ESCs include it. But if you're running mid-80s or older radio gear and a MSC, it's a very handy thing to have.
  10. I don't know; I never paint anything box-art. But I always have been partial to the Martini Racing livery, and Tamiya have made excellent use of it over the years. And I still wish they had re-released this kit.
  11. Edited topic to add more stuff... MF-01X chassis rally car. MX-5 Miata body, trimmed but not painted. Chassis has full bearings, an old set of HPI touring car shocks, a front ball diff, and a Futaba servo installed. I keep wanting to like this chassis, but not really connecting with it. I'll dig up the extra chassis length extenders and include them as well. Also includes the original Suzuki body (wheel wells chopped off, I tried to make it a scaler) and the rally-block tires and stock wheels. Car was run twice. Mini rally block tires on it are brand new, never run. Looking for $125 for this one.
  12. Guess we should have seen this coming... the Ultima was such a very big deal for Kyosho when it came out tha they'd be fools not to cash in on that. Remember all the "Next World Champion" hype? It seemed like annoying bravado... until they proved it right. And the Ultima platform was around for so long, and spawned so many variants: Turbo and Pro, but also the Outlaw Ultima, the Sideways, on-road and rally cars, even the Tracker monster truck (although they had switched to the plastic Ultima II chassis by then). What would be brilliant on Kyosho's part, and really cool for us, is if they offered "Nostalgic Conversion Kits" to go along with this re-issue. Want a Sideways re-re? Buy the Ultima, and the Sideways option kit. I doubt they'll do it, but...
  13. Lost interest in this one, it's too similar to other things I've built. Carisma SCA-1E Coyote chassis, built from the kit version. Full bearings (didn't come with them), Dynamite 20 turn motor but no other electronics. Axial 8-hole beadlock wheels, kit tires. Chinese Jeep JK body that I started to cut up to fit the chassis, but didn't get much further. Build up a styrene floor and tunnel around the chassis parts, and you're good to go. Includes all the parts I took off: doors, seats, dash, grille, etc. Also including the kit Lexan body and posts, if you'd rather run it that way. I ran it a couple of times, it's a really good scaler/crawler chassis, very capable. Good articulation, really nice shocks. Lots of steel parts. Just too close to another rig I have. Asking $180 plus shipping. Will ship anywhere you'll pay for.
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