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About markbt73

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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  • Location
    PDX, OR, USA
  • Interests
    RC cars (natch), classic MG sports cars, electric guitar, vinyl, and other stuff with more moving parts than electronics

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  1. You know, there's a reason why the glue tube says "Use in a well-ventilated area..."
  2. Oh sure, there have been plenty of times I've drifted away and done other things for a while. RIght now I'm largely off RC cars for the winter, for the most part, and concentrating on static models and my 1:1 MG. I think it's healthy to step back once in a while. You don't want to get burned out on a hobby, or else it stops being fun. It's one of the reasons why I never wanted to earn a living from something that I do recreationally - it stops being "I want to" and turns into "I have to," and that's the death of motivation, at least for me. I'd rather be slogging my way through something I don't really care that much about, and daydreaming of my hobbies, than end hating that used to be fun because I'm suddenly forced to do it.
  3. Ah yes, the old Paragon "Turbo Pac"! Banned almost instantly at my local carpet track, because of the mess...
  4. Clod Buster is a good one, but it gets a little tedious because the front and rear axles are identical, so you basically do the same thing twice. And I imagine any of the 3-speeds or semis takes a while to build. But those all have hard bodies that deserve to be done right, and it does take patience (which can be learned). The new CC-02 looks like a good involved build as well. Non-Tamiya possibilities: Axial SCX10 II (any flavor), or Kyosho Optima/Javelin. Both are good quality kits with high parts counts, and lots of mechanical bits to assemble.
  5. And JennyMo has tackled the subject from another direction...
  6. Welcome! That's quite a creation you've got there, and a great story to go with it. Thanks for sharing!
  7. Here's a little inspiration for you... 3D printed chassis designed to use Losi Mini-Crawler axles and gearboxes (OOP, but still available here and there). https://scalebuildersguild.com/forum/showthread.php?21925-Willy-s-Wild-Ride
  8. Any of the early 3-speeds, but Blazing Blazer in particular. And the 1/12 scale Datsun 280ZX. That's the only vintage NIB kit I would want to keep around, I think.
  9. Unless I'm mistaken, that's a Traxxas Street Sport. Mid 90s, approximately.
  10. Behold, the "Turbo Javelin"... Still need to paint and decal the driver, but it's ready to run. Simple electronics in this one: a Futaba S3305 servo, Tamiya TBLE-02 ESC, and a '90s-era LeMans Stock 05 motor. Can't wait for it to stop raining so I can go put it through its paces...
  11. Personally, my favorite was always Sanwa/Airtronics, because that's what I started with. First an SR2 2-stick, and later the legendary XL2P, which I used for about 15 years. Loved that radio. Most other people I raced with went for Futaba or KO, it seemed, but the XL2P just felt right to me. I liked the balance. I have a Cox Cadet (rebranded SR2) that works great, and it's still my favorite 2-stick. It's funny, the differences in dominant radio brand in different parts of the world. Acoms, which sounds like it was/is a huge deal in Great Britain, was almost unknown in the US. Futaba (Attack or Magnum Sport, usually) was the sort of default standard here, Airtronics was a distant second, and if you bought a combo deal from Tower Hobbies, you got a Kyosho Pulsar (which was made by KO, I think). For some reason everybody I knew avoided Hitec (then Aristo-Craft) like the plague. I don't know if it was the incompatibility with Tamiya kits, or the fact that their radios were a particularly unpleasant shade of brown back then, but everybody spent the extra $10-20 for Futaba or Airtronics.
  12. You guys are making me want to watch A Fish Called Wanda again... "I wonder, I Wanda, I Wendy, I wonder..." After a couple of truly disappointing "bargain" builds, trying to save money by buying cheap Chinese stuff, I have reached the conclusion that this stuff costs what it costs, and if you don't like it, don't spend it. The good stuff is always more money, but it's always disproportionately higher quality as well. I have never had the pleasure of owning a Bruiser, though I hope to someday, but everything I have read tells me that it truly is something special, even if the performance isn't as "good" as newer designs. And the clone is a clone in form only; the quality is just not the same. As Baltasar Gracián once wrote: "It is better to feel cheated by the price than by the merchandise." As for why the list price of the Bruiser kit is so high, I think the best answer is "because they can."
  13. I've been there! Wonderful, crowded little place. I went in looking for an MGB GT model, any scale, any type... and came up empty-handed. I could happily have brought about half their stock home with me, though... Today, I took a photo I've wanted to take for quite a while now... Left: new-built Turbo Optima re-issue. Right: Original restored Optima, not run since restoration, with Marwan tires, full bearings, full stainless steel screws, and my own homemade steering linkage "fix".
  14. There's a trick to Deans plugs: put a small O-ring around each of the male terminals. That way, there's a little gap between the halves. Makes it much easier to pull apart.
  15. I've managed to do it upside-down before. Put the body down upside-down, then set the chassis in it, lien it up where you want it, then shift it either forward or back a tiny bit (around 3 mm) and mark the post locations (either just in front of, or behind, where the posts are) with a Sharpie. It's tricky, especially if the posts are a little bit bendy, but I've pulled it off a few times before. Of course, you could also fab up some hidden flat mounts, and just attach it with velcro, and not have to drill any holes...
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