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markbt73

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About markbt73

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  • Birthday 01/07/1973

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    PDX, OR, USA
  • Interests
    RC cars (natch), classic MG sports cars, electric guitar, vinyl, and other stuff with more moving parts than electronics

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  1. markbt73

    4 stroke Kyosho

    It was the Super Ten on-road chassis, roughly 1/8 scale (but more like a 1/10 scale touring car than a typical 1/8 scale racer). It came with Acura NSX and Porsche 911 GT3 bodies, maybe some others. I don't know if they went any better than the 2-strokes, but they sure sounded better:
  2. So this weekend I tried to shuffle our vehicles around and move my truck a bit more out of the way. Unfortunately, the ground wasn'tas solid as I might have liked, and all I accomplished was making a big mess of the grass.... ...and creating a really great little crawling spot. That's an ECX Barrage, if you're curious, with a much-hacked-up Tamiya YJ Wrangler body. It did pretty well, only got high-centered a couple of times, and I only laid it on its side once. Trouble is, now I have to clean it...
  3. I don't know about "best" (which is subjective anyway), but I can tell you which one I found most surprising: Fast Attack Vehicle. It's nice and neutral, and turns in tighter than I expected, and is very hard to flip.
  4. Between the two, if you were only going to get one, I would go for the Clod. In stock form, it's just fast enough to be exciting, and bouncy manic fun. It's tougher than the Blackfoot, and less prone to rolling over, thanks to a bigger footprint and a lower center of gravity. But if you wanted to make it not-so-stock, the sky is the limit. You can build an entire "Clod Buster" from aftermarket parts, with zero Tamiya parts in it. In fact, you could build a few, and they would be completely different from each other. That's how deep the aftermarket support is. The run time isn't an issue, thanks to a modern electronic speed control and the fact that modern batteries are 2-3 times (or more) bigger capacity than what we had back then. Get ball bearings right away, unless you want to build the gearboxes twice (you don't). Shoot, now I want another Clod...
  5. I keep wanting to; I'm still working from home, and it seems like every day it starts raining just before I get off work. And yesterday it rained all day. But today it's only partly cloudy, so hopefully I can burn through a couple of battery packs. I'll stay on my own property, so if anyone wants to tell me off, they'll have to trespass and break the six-foot-rule to do so.
  6. Oh, that's a shame. And you're right; it's not a brilliant design. But I guess it's one of those "it was early on in the hobby, nobody knew what they were doing yet" things. Part of the charm...?
  7. Wow, that thing is practically new... I personally wouldn't bother with a higher-torque servo. Touring cars don't require a lot of muscle to steer, so I doubt you't see much improvement from it. As for batteries, NiMH will work perfectly with the car, but you'll need a new charger. A charger made for NiCDs will cook a NiMH battery, because it won't sense the peak and know when to shut off. Lots of good cheap choices for chargers that will handle different types of batteries these days. And a 3000mAh NiMH pack should give you a good 20 minutes of run time at least, probably more.
  8. Hi, and welcome! Unfortunately, I don't know if we'll be much help. The Pure Ten Alpha cars were not very popular, at least compared to other inexpensive entry-level touring cars, and because the chassis didn't sell well, it wasn't supported by aftermarket companies. So there aren't many Alpha-specific hop-ups around, unless Kyosho made some themselves. The good news is that it's a touring car, of standard proportions, and using the same basic design "language" as many others, so a lot of non-model-specific parts will fit. Any touring car-sized body (255-260mm wheelbase and 190-200mm width) should be at least a "close enough" fit to make it work, and that means there are hundreds of body styles to choose from. Likewise, any wheels with 12mm hexes will work, though you might have to add a shim to an axle here or there to make it work. And if you wanted to upgrade the shocks, most touring car shocks are about 60mm long, and should be able to be made to work. I don't know if the Alpha cars came with oil-filled shocks or not, but if not, a good set would certainly help with the handling. I wouldn't go too crazy with the power, if you decide to change out the motor. Entry-level Kyosho cars tend to be built to survive beginner abuse (soft and bendy), which is exactly the opposite of the traits you want for handling lots of power (strong and rigid). Honestly, I'd keep the stock motor in it, and spend money on some newer battery packs instead. Even fresh Ni-MH batteries will wake it up, if the pack you have has been in storage a while. Don't worry about brushless, lipo, etc for this chassis. And post some photos! We love photos.
  9. Ah, another RCer falls victim to the "let's put a ridiculous motor in a pan car" idea... always a good time. I can't offer any advice on tires, because my speed-run days were on standard pan-car foam tires on an RC10L. But I can say that you should make sure the tires/axle are balanced, or close to it. And true. Vibration and wobble are going to slow it down and make it harder to control. Also: gear down. Smallest pinion and biggest spur you can manage. It sounds counterproductive to speed, but it will help your heat problem a lot. If it feels like it's maxing out, then gear up a little, but start out with nice low gears. And I would guess the 19 turn motor is going to end up being the sweet spot. That NSX shell looks great, but it's not as slippery as you think. Biggest problem with on-road cars and aero is air getting trapped under the body. If you get rid of the ground effects thingy in the back, and cut out the back end of the body (bumper and taillight panel), you'd be closer, but I could understand your reluctance to do so. If you have another old touring car body, with no wing and no mirrors, try that instead, but cut the back out. And FYI: barrel-rolls during high-speed passes aren't a matter of "if," but "when." Have fun!
  10. Motor to speed control connection, round plugs, yellow and green wires on Tamiya kits. And yes, they've been the same across brands and types for many years now. I think the spec might actually be 1/8 inch, which is between 3 and 4 mm. That might be part of the confusion.
  11. I've never seen anything other than one size of bullet plugs (except for the wiring harnesses on old British sports cars, but that's best left un-mentioned). In the RC world, bullet plugs are bullet plugs. Anything should plug right in to anything.
  12. I think that probably has a lot to do with it. Cutting them out is an entire extra manufacturing step on another machine, either die-cutting or with a plotter. It makes sense if they're doing the application labor, but it's a lot cheaper to skip it if we're the ones doing the work. As far as slitting/removing a strip of the backing on masks or decals, that's where one of these comes in handy:
  13. Seems like a job for one of the Comical cars. Smaller footprint, tighter turning radius, and geared low for quick acceleration. Just an idea.
  14. Honestly, from me... Nope. No love for Hitec. I can't speak for their radios, but I bought one of their high-torque servos for a racing Clod many years ago, and it was DOA. Took it back to the hobby shop, they exchanged it, and the replacement stopped working after a month. It just quit. Gears were fine, but it just lost power. It may have just been a run of particularly bad luck, but I wasn't going to chance it again. I put a Futaba S3305 in the Clod, and never had an issue. (In fact, the Clod is long gone, but I still have and use the servo.)
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