markbt73

That much toe-in is going to chew up the outer edges of the tires even more, even with the negative camber. Tamiya usually recommends a little toe-in for stability, but I've never had much luck with that setting. 0 toe is usually my starting point for 2WD vehicles. For now, I would return it to the stock springs until you get the new shocks, and set the toe to 0, or as close to it as you can get. Also, did you order rear oil shocks as well? I remember when I had my first Grasshopper way back in the day, I could only afford to put shocks on the front one month, and then the rears the next month, and it made for some really odd handling for that month. (Keeping in mind, of course, that "Grashopper" and "handling" are pretty much mutually exclusive anyway...)

I went digging and found that review too. Here's an even stranger coincidence - the editor who wrote that review, Peter Vieira, now works with me at The Autopian. (He also writes for Traxxas now I think, but don't hold that against him; he's a good dude.) Can't wait to show it to him when it arrives.

OK, so at this point, I'm pretty much just live-blogging my indecision. Hope no one minds... I don't think I trust my abilities to hack up that hard-plastic 037 body and not ruin it. Besides, I put it back on the TA02 again, and I really like how it sits. But I do have another rear-drive Lancia body sitting around, and I don't mind modifying this one at all: The more I look at these Rally Legends bodies, the more flaws I see in them, and the more willing I am to modify them as needed. Besides, all four of them cost the same as a replacement 037 body would be if I did screw it up. With a little judicious trimming, this could be the Stratos equivalent to the old Opel/Audi/037 models, which do in fact have a very cool vibe to them. So then I tried the other Fiat on a Grasshopper, and it almost fits: But it fits quite nicely on an old Hyperdrive pan car: So now I'm not sure exactly what to do again. One thing I do know is that the other Fiat, on the drift chassis, is shaping up nicely. Not sure how it will drive, and I have some issues with the quality of the MST drift kit, but it sure is starting to look the part: Oh well. I hope whatever you're all doing for Christmas Eve, it's as much fun as I'm having messing around in my workshop.

Receiver plugs were standardized 20 years ago, finally eliminating the need to re-wire or modify servo plugs to fit. Now some off-brand upstart wants to change it all again? Nope. Nope nope nope. If y'all want to mess with it, go right ahead. I'll be over here with my good old J-plug compatible stuff. Who names their company after a cartoon elephant, anyway?

It's that time once again, to take stock of where I am in the hobby, mainly so I can refer back to this post when I feel like buying something, and remember that some stuff here still needs parts here or there. Maybe (maybe!) it will help keep me from wanting to start anything new this coming year. Although I say that every year... Complete/could be run: Tamiya - Bigwig, Terra Scorcher, Clod Buster, King Yellow, WR-02 custom hot rod, Honda City Turbo, Lunchbox, FAV/Wild One mashup, CC-01 Pajero, Grasshopper "stunt car", DT-02 Sand Rover, Striker custom hot rod, Bruiser, TT-02 Kyosho - Turbo Optima re-re, Scorpion re-re, Turbo Optima w/Javelin cage, Ultima, Cox Bandido, Hi-Rider Vette, Fazer MkII Associated - RC10, RC10T, RC10/Scorcher mashup Other - Carisma SCA-1E, MST TCR-M, custom Land Rover scaler, custom Toyota FJ40 scaler Complete/primarily shelfers: Tamiya Blackfoot, Tamiya Midnight Pumpkin, Kyosho Optima, Kyosho Progress, Associated RC10LSO, Parma Hemi Coupe Works in progress: MST FXX 2.0S - with Fiat 131 body, converting from drift car to rally car - have all parts, needs wiring and body finishing Tamiya MF-01X - with VW Beetle body, needs body finishing Tamiya MF-01X - with Ford Escort body, needs paint, wiring, and final wheel/tire choice Tamiya ORV - converting to Lancia 037, chassis is assembled, awaiting wheels, needs body modifications, body mounts, finishing, and wiring CEN Fiat 595 Abarth - converted to 4WD, running chassis, awaiting Tamiya WIld Willy body transplant RJ Speed Sportster - needs wiring Hyperdrive Hyper 10 - don't like how body turned out, may re-body, chassis is complete and running Basket cases/disassembled/put away for later: Futaba FX-10, Traxxas Stampede, Bolink Digger, Bolink Legend, Tamiya TamTech-Gear Hornet, Tamiya TA02-S chassis, WPL C24 (basically useless), Mardave V12, 2 trucks' worth of scaler components (axles/gearboxes/wheels/tires/etc), NIB Tamiya Grasshopper re-re Bought but not arrived yet: MRC Q-Tee Coupe - assembled, exact condition unknown, may be missing parts Tamiya ORV monster chassis - complete basket case, unassembled, looks like it's all there, may have Thorp diff Static models still unbuilt: 1/8 scale - Pocher Ferrari Testarossa, Monogram Chevy Camaro Z28, Monogram Chevy Camaro IROC (possible RC conversion), Monogram '82 Corvette, Monogram Jaguar E-Etype 1/16 scale - Entex MGTC, Entex Ford Model T 1/22 scale - Hubley Packard convertible 1/24 or 1/25 scale - Entex Lotus Esprit, Tamiya Lotus Europa, Tamiya Lotus Seven, Gunze-Sangyo Maserati Merak SS, Heller 1924 Citroen 5CV, Tamiya Peugeot 206, Tamyia Fiat Abarth 595SS, Fujimi Porsche 356, AMT Piranha, Testors/Fujimi Mercedes 190E 2.3-16, Testors/Italeri Bugatti Royale, AMT Subaru Brat, AMT Shelby Mustang GT500, Revell Ford Bronco, Revell Plymouth GTX, MPC Dodge Daytona, MPC Dodge Omni 024, Monogram Dodge Challenger T/A, Monogram Ford Mustang SVO, Monogram Ford Boss Mustang, Monogram Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, MPC Chevy Cavalier, AMT Chevy C1500 454SS, Revell Pontiac Grand Prix, MPC Pontiac Fiero, Monogram '57 Chevy Bel Air, Monogram Chevy El Camino, AMT '58 Chevy Impala, AMT '62 Chevy Bel Air, Revell '68 Corvette, Revell '78 Corvette, AMT Ford Thunderbird stock car, AMT VW Scirocco, Monogram Ferrari Testarossa, Monogram '53 Corvette, Monogram '56 Ford Thunderbird, IMC '48 Ford convertible, AMT Newman-Haas Indy car, Monogram Granatelli Lola Indy car, Testors/Burago Ferrari 288GTO, Revell Chevy Camaro IMSA car, Revell Aston-Martin DB4 1/32 scale or smaller - Airfix Jaguar E-Type, MPC Ford Escort, Monogram '65 Ford Mustang, Monogram '55 Chevy, MPC 1906 Rolls-Royce, AMT Jaguar SS100, Lindberg MGA, Lindberg Austin-Healey Sprite Plus all the stuff on the shelf in the garage... oh jeez... Whew. Yeah, I need to look at this list before I click any more "Buy It Now" buttons.

So after some hemming, some hawing, and no small amount of waffling, I have decided to go ahead with the Lancia on the ORV chassis, but not the Brat on the TA02. It just doesn't sit right. I'm not crazy about the Brat wheels under the Lancia body, so I ordered a set of the new 1.9" direct-fit wheels, and I'll audition tires on it once they get here. For the Brat, I went ahead and bought a big pile of Blackfoot parts I've had my eye on for a while. I'm thinking a Mud Blaster mongrel might make me happier than the low Brat. When in doubt, buy more stuff, right? That's our motto, I thought.

So I'm sitting here looking at my "unfinshed projects" shelf, trying to figure out why I never got around to finishing some of them. And two models stuck out in particular - the Subaru Brat, and the Lancia 037 Rally. And it dawned on me why I was never really as excited about either of them as I should have been: the drivetrains of both are all wrong. The Brat should be 4WD (even the decals say so), and the Lancia should be RWD. But hang on - they're close to the same wheelbase. And Tamiya did originally put the 037 body on an ORV chassis. Could it be as simple as a swap? OK, so nothing is ever that simple. But is this feasible? I mean, the Lancia's wheel arches would need to be enlarged back out to the old 1983 sizes. And the Brat's wheelbase isn't quite perfect on the TA02S, but it's awfully close. Wheel and tire choice would be critical. But in the words of Gene Wilder in Young Frankenstein: "It... Could... Work!" And I did say just this morning that I need to be willing to hack things up and make them what I want. And it's not like these are precious gems or anything; they're both re-releases, and still available (I think, anyway). I'm going to poke and prod a little before I start cutting anything up, but I think I might have just solved my problem with these two models.

Not so much "learned" as finally acknowledged and accepted: I'm bored with building kits from new. Resurrecting old beat-up cars, or building my own models from components that don't "go" together, is so much more satisfying. I don't think I need to bother buying new kits anymore. I'm also warming up to the idea that nothing is sacred. I have a few special rare models that I won't mess with, but everything else is fair game to cut up, modify, and turn into something new as I see fit. And if it doesn't work, then so be it, I'll try something else. Because a "ruined" model that I tried to do something cool with means more to me than a pristine untouchable shelf queen - again, with a few exceptions, all of which are cars I carefully restored.

It never fails... browse eBay, find something, spend money. Oh well, at least it's something you don't see every day. That, if you've never seen one, is an MRC/Academy Q-Tee Coupe, one of the weirdest RC releases ever. It's an Academy Wyvern 4WD buggy that someone decided should have a '33-34 Ford-ish hot rod body. Why? What is it for? You'll have to ask the folks at MRC what they were thinking nearly 30 years ago. I love the look of it, though, and those tires...! Looks to be in good condition, but missing the spur gear. I'll have to wait until it gets here to see if something else can be made to fit, or if I have to go on a quest for old Academy parts. Photos are from the eBay listing. More photos and info, of course, once it's on my workbench. Now I just have to resist also buying the cheap Traxxas Hawk that I found...

Oh man. There were probably a hundred companies making RC cars around that time. Associated was absolutely around; they've been at it longer than Tamiya. The RC10 came out in 1984, and Associated already had half a dozen World Championship titles by then, in 1/12 and 1/8 on-road. Losi existed; the Ranch Pit Shop in California was the site of the first IFMAR World Championships in 1985. Losi weren't making their own cars yet, but they imported Yokomos and built their own motors and other things. Marui, as mentioned, were trying to compete with Tamiya and never quite getting there. Parma pivoted from slot cars to RC cars in the early '80s. Bolink were big here in the US, but I don't know how internationally known they were. Probably a lot like Mardave in the UK, locally known but not often exported. Others, off the top of my head: AYK, Nichimo, Mugen, SG, Traxxas (yes, even back then), Jerobee, Nikko (actually made hobby-grade kits back then, not just toys), Hirobo (yes, the helicopter people), Yonezawa, Academy, Royal, and I'm sure I've missed a bunch of big obvious ones, but it's only 6 AM here... Not to mention companies like Cox and MRC who badge-engineered cars from other companies. Even static kit companies like Monogram got in on the action. The point is that there is a TON of history there to explore if you're so inclined. I still find stuff on eBay that I've nevr heard of, and I've been involved in this hobby continuously since 1985.

What brand and model of servo is it? I've had some fail quickly, but only the really cheap knock-off ones. Typically if you built the car stock, with the servo-saver in place properly, a little bounce off a curb won't hurt it. They're built to take a lot more than that. It sounds dumb, but the first thing I would check is the connection at the receiver, make sure the plug didn't get knocked partway out or something. After that, try swapping the steering and throttle connections on the receiver, see if the steering works off the trigger and/or the throttle works off the wheel. If the steering servo is still dead, then you know it's the servo itself. And after an hour, if it's a reputable manufacturer, that should be a warranty issue.

Nice! I love all the old simple Bolink stuff. Looks like it shouldn't work at all, your first implulse is "that's it?", but they're a ton of fun, and stupid-fast with direct drive. And you could probably run it in the dirt with no problem; from what I heard, those gear covers just trapped dirt in, they didn't keep it out.

All of 'em.

I tried the G601 in the snow last year and it did okay, but the lack of ground clearance hurt it. It tended to dig in rather than float over. Also, since all the electronics sit on top of the chassis, you need to find a waterproofing solution. The Clod's tub naturally keeps the worst of the crud away from the works.

The Clod is the king of snow. And it's one of those models that every Tamiya fan should experience at least once. Start stock, so you'll appreciate the improvements you will certainly end up making. But even stock, it's a beast in the snow.

Now you need to join the two short halves together and stick a Wild Willy body on it.

Heh - that photo in the old thread is at least two iterations of workbench ago... Here's how mine looks as of this morning: Still organizing; I had to pull everything out of this room a couple months ago because the floor flooded and we had to tear out all the carpet and replace it with click-lock flooring. It's cluttered, but despite what my wife seems to think, there is a place for everything. Those clear plastic tubs are great for organizing: the one on the workbench has hand tools in it, and the three on the shelves are divided into paint, tape/adhesives, and shock oil/lubricants. That keeps the sticky stuff and the slippery stuff well away from each other. The two toolboxes under the shelf hold less-commonly-used tools. The plastic bins and drawers underneath hold decals, parts, scraps of scratch-building materials, body shells, unfinished projects, etc. Shelves similar to this line all four walls of the room, in various places. Early on, I bought two sets of wall-mounted shelves, one from Ikea and one from Home Depot, but everything since then has been built of reclaimed plywood from packing crates I scavenged from work. It looks a little haphazard right now, mainly because it's all unpainted. Once I finalize the design, I'll paint everything, and then it won't look quite so random.

I appreciate it, but honestly, I'm just not that fussed about that one. It's my least favorite livery of the four that I got, so I think I'll just worry about it later, and concentrate on getting the other ones right. Besides, you've got the Pirelli livery covered; that car looks amazing so far. I got a good start on the chassis for the blue and white Fiat. It's an MST FXX 2.0S drift chassis, chosen because it's front-motor and rear-wheel-drive, like a real 131. Building it stock except for some aluminum set-screw-type wheel hexes in place of those dumb fake brake rotor ones, which limit wheel choice. I had hoped to be able to use M-sized wheels on this instead of the "cheater" fake-sidewall ones in the background, but I don't think they're going to clear the rear uprights. Still debating tire choices. I'm not sure if this one will see dirt or not; I'm a little concerned about those exposed reduction gears.

I'll just stick with my old runner, thanks. And parts of it are see-thru...

Far and away the worst offender for me is cheap hardware. I finally learned my lesson about cheap tools, and am slowly replacing my hex drivers with good hardened-steel ones. But then I start assembling a $200 kit (MST FXX, not top-of-the-line, I realize, but not cheap either) and find that the drivers fit too loosely in half the hardware. It's infuriating. And you can't even get good replacement/aftermarket hardware in RC sizes anymore, just varying degrees of bad. And I don't think anybody likes assembling turnbuckles or threaded links. It's just one of those things you have to put up with. I rather enjoy diffs and shocks, though - again assuming the fit and finish is good enough.

This little box arrived today: And no, it's not going to be a drift car. Remember those Fiat 131 bodies I got?

Clod Buster was practically made for snow. Big balloony tires, tub chassis to keep most of the wetness out. It's a blast.

Just ordered myself a Christmas/birthday present in the form of an MST FXX drift chassis. It won't be a drift car, though - it's getting a Rally Legends Fiat 131 body. RWD rally time!

This car is 95% done, and I didn't take any more progress photos. See, this is why I usually don't do build threads; I'm really bad at them. Re-re aluminum chassis parts except for a few things. I could only find gold parts for sale, so it's a mishmash of silver and gold. It's OK; I kinda like it. Original Gold shocks with new O-rings, silky-smooth as always. Re-re Javelin cage, with the wing mounted on some old purple Trinity wing hardware, using the badly-tweaked front sway bar as wing wire. Wheels are from Rally Legends; I sure wasn't going to put them on a scale rally car, but they look pretty good here. Tires are old Thundershot-style. Currently has no electronics besides the Futaba S3003 steering servo it came with, and a Trinity Green Machine motor. It will sit like this on the shelf through the winter, but I'll give it a little exercise in the spring. I have a repro driver for it too, but I have to paint it. (I hate painting drivers.)

Had a re-think about these... and a setback. The decals are not sticking at all; some of them have literally fallen off. I don't know if there's a coating on the body, or the adhesive is just wretched, but they look awful now. So I'll have to reconsider how to do it. Luckily, I work for a print shop, so in theory I could just make my own decals on higher-quality stock, but laying them out is a lot of work. Also, you'll notice that that's not a Terra Scorcher under there. I just wasn't feeling the pokey-out wheels, so I'm re-thinking the chassis for these. This is now on the Fazer chassis, but with the front drive components removed, so it's mid-motor, rear-wheel-drive like a real Stratos. (Needs bigger tires, though, I think.) No idea how well it will work, but I want to play with it and see. If it's terrible, I can always put it back. For the Fiat, I think I want a scale-accurate drivetrain layout as well, which means front-motor and rear-drive. So I think I'm going to order an MST FXX drift chassis for it. It's got a ton of adjustability, so I can "un-drift" it, I think. And again, if it's awful, I'll just try something else.