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ST

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  1. quote:id="quote">id="quote">Imho I'd go find a better a better hobby shop... if they don'tknow how many turns is whatever they're selling quote:id="quote">id="quote">Well I might agree with you Willy Chang except, I did not find any info about motor turns on the Runner special or Buggy special (nor you it seems) on the LRP web site. These motors are the ones I was actually enquiring about. Regards
  2. Does anyone know the relation between motor turns and rpm. I do know the lower the turns the higher the rpm but does a rough guide exist? I went to a local hobby store to buy a 21 turn motor but as he had LRP motors, they only show rpm specs. How can I compare them? He had two in particular one was 21,300 and the other 21,500. I actually think that my original Corally 21 turn motor revved more than that. Am I right? Regards
  3. I went through 3 LRP 2100, one was replaced after a week, one died after 2 weeks, I went back to the shop to buy back the defective battery for cheap to fix the other one and have some spare cells. Now after about a month both batteries are dead, keep away from these cheap batteries, my friends have gone through similar experences with these batteries. The same goes to Team Orion 2400 batteries sportpacks, (2 for $36 from Tower Hobbies) it sounds too good to be true, I bought 2 x 2 packs. One is dead, one is on the way out and the other two don't even come close to my 2 Tamiya 1400s which I have had for three years. Now I have learned my lesson SANYO BATTERIES RULE OK. Regards
  4. Hi It already has the 20T/21T optional pinnion gears and even if you have enough distance to pick up speed it will still nose dive, I have tried it. It simply is too balanced (front to rear) and relative to other trucks the front is always too heavy. The speeds that it would have to pick up to 'glide' over the ramps would have to be a little over the top and probably more than the WD could handle, as I feel the steering is a little sensitive, you'd have trouble keeping it in a straight line. Regards
  5. Has anybody experienced any breakages regarding the chassis and/or gearboxes? My son's Wild dagger has cracks everywhere which I keep repairing using spacers instead of the mounts which are all breaking off, with through bolts and nuts instead of screws on each side, which in turn bend with stress. The reason being that the Wild Dagger nose dives after taking any kind of jump hitting the front guard and transfering that to the gearbox mounts. Last Sunday it also broke the rear camber linkage mount (part of the rear gearbox)after a minor collision with another truck. I race my KBF together with my son and have much more harder crashes due to it being much faster with no damage whatsoever. The replacement parts are pretty cheap, about £25 for both gearboxes and chassis but it is such a hassle to replace that I would have to admit that the Wild Dagger isn't practical (or up to it) when it comes to bashing around a track with ramps. I am pretty disappointed about it since it is such a nice truck, and I am sure it wasn't designed to drive at a snails pace. Regards
  6. Does one risk any damage in connecting two servos in parallel to one channel in the receiver? I already connected them mechanically to the steering rod but before I get my hands on the side cutter and snip the wires I thought I better get some advice.[] Regards
  7. and going by what everyone there is running, looks like truck mostly, so XXXT, T3 or build up your KBF with some nice mods. quote:id="quote">id="quote"> Well I don't what else to add to my KBF. It's all ballraced,light weight body, 21T motor, Futaba MC330CR ESC and Duratrax shocks which incidentally broke three out of four of the bottom eyelets second time out and later replaced them with the much stronger ones from the stock Wild Dagger shocks. I have to say that I am pretty pleased with the overall performance of my KBF and in spite of the high ground clearance it handles with the best of them, but seeing the low centre of gravity of Stadium trucks I cannot see how I can match the speed and handling. I have tried lowering the ground clearance but with the lack of camber adjustment on the front this is just not possible. If anyone knows how else I can improve on the KBF I would appreciate it. Frankly the only other mod I can think of is installing another motor maybe a 17T but I have enough problems with traction as it is, so I am not sure it would be a good choice. Regards to all
  8. Thanks for your info, it seems that the Losi 4WD takes the vote. To the question of what they race, it's KBFs, Monster Beetles, Wild Dagger(my son's), Evader, and I believe a Rustler, Stampede and HPI RS4 MT are to join very soon. Is it possible to fit the Losi 2WD Truck body on the Losi 4WD? Regards to all and thanks once again.
  9. Hi to all, It seems that things are getting pretty serious down at the local race track. Now here's a question for all you race freaks. Say you want to race in a dirt track, kind of flatish oval track with one about 1 foot ramp that can be taken at top speed with an estimated jump of about 6-7 feet which I might add that my King Blackfoot and 21T motor has no trouble of clearing, and the only rule is that the model has to be electric 1/10th. scale, which truck/buggy model would you purchase? Should I keep the KBF, go for a stadium racer, 2WD, 4WD, what make. I feel I have to upgrade to something better. A newbie just got an Evader ST which looks the biz although he was loosing traction and going all over the place I do feel that in the right hands it would blast past all of us.
  10. When you set the toe-in you have to make sure that if you push the front of the wheels outwards with your fingers taking all the slack, you should see that they at least be parallel. With this set up my KBF goes straight as an arrow because as it's a rear wheel drive the forward thrust pushes the front wheels outwards. If you don't take the slack into account will end up with toe-out making it unstable in the straights although it would probably steer better in tighter turns. Other than that you would have to compromise. Better steering or better stability in the straights. I prefer better straights the KBF tends to slide the back anyway (offroad). Regards
  11. quote:The general rule of thumb I've heard is that when using 2 motors in parallel you cut the number of turns in half to get the effective load on the esc. so 27/2 is approx 14turn motor equivalentid="quote">id="quote">In theory this might be correct but in practice this might not be so. My son runs his twin standard motor Wild Dagger flat out around a track while I run my 21 turn King Blackfoot around the same track and constantly slowing down before each turn. I do use a mechanical speed controller so it really might not make a difference whether I slow down or run it flat out but my battery pack always drains before my son's similar battery pack. Regards
  12. Hi, does anybody have any experience or/and more technical details of the P-Sung ESC found on http://www.antics.ltd.uk/acatalog/Main_Ind...rollers_60.html becayse it seems to be a good bargain. Regards to all
  13. If you want off-road fun for cheap, get a Corally 21T motor, I wouldn't suggest less turns for dirt driving. I just fitted a street racer 21T to my KBF and it literally flies. I have trouble controlling it either because of loss of traction or because the front wheels are in the air. Regards
  14. Then you are either lucky or they don't do them like they used to. I have only ridden it in the dirt so the lubrication in them only lasts for a couple of minutes maybe that could be the reason. Something completely different that I had to modify is the bottom eyes of the front shock. If you look closely when you compress the front suspension is that the front shocks are forced to bow outwards. This is caused because swiveling action inwards is restricted. What I did is mount the shocks behind the mount instead of the front as it says on the instructions. I also removed the washers from the top front arms (the main reason for the stiff front suspension together with shock problem). Regards
  15. After less then two weeks of owning the KBF, the drive shafts have worn on the gearbox side. The fault in my opinion apart from **** material is that the pins on the drive shafts are too short. I pressed the pins out and replaced them with hardened nails taken from wire clips (the sort used on masonry walls) then I grinded the ends about 2mm longer on each side. I also switched the gearbox joints with each other because they were worn on the insides but obviously only on the forward thrust side. Regards
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