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About Raman36

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  • Birthday 04/08/1970

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  1. Rough Rider had similar issue and was called Buggy Champ. Tamiya USA is having delays in receiving shipments. The port in Long Beach is understaffed and backed up in checking Containers. Hopefully we will have our stock soon in US
  2. Similar set up to mine.. I’ve run my XV01 for a decade now with a 17.5T that has 30° of timing and boost. Front I used to run the spool but after a late night rebuild, it went missing 🤦🏻.. I believe it got wrapped up in paper tissue and went into the rubbish! Currently, my front diff I almost has 1 million silicone, so it’s nearly locked. Also still on original derlin gears 👍 I’ve never felt the need for slipper on this car. I feel it’s no necessary at all.
  3. IMO it would have been more prudent to trim the motor brace than grind away the pretty blue suspension mount. The contacts being that low also leave the motor open to shorting out easier if you come into contact with water. As I mentioned in prior thread, there is a carbon motor brace that Tamiya released with the FF-04 Evo, which uses the same gear box https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-motor-stay-84394/
  4. When I bought my XV back in 2012, I trimmed the plastic motor housing to clear the motor tab. That is your best bet. Later they released the carbon plate, which clears the motor tabs https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-motor-stay-84394/
  5. Kyosho Outlaw Rampage Pro for my son. Super cool looking.
  6. 42102 with 54465 spring set. They are softer springs
  7. Majority of 1/10 kits, in particular Tamiya are geared for 2S / 7.4 - 8.4 volts. So a 540 silver can on 3S / 12.4 v will surely burn up, period. The only chance the motor has is if you can gear it way up to an FDR above 12. A 540 silver can motor on 2S will burn up only if you gear it too high.. eg final drive ratio below 4.0 My 7 year old son recently got into racing. I set up his TT02 for VTA racing, which uses a 25.5 brushless. Since motor did not arrive, I asked race director if I could run the torque tuned. He said go ahead. I geared the motor around 4. After each heat I removed the motor and it was under 100° F, yet I could smell a hint of something cooking. By the 3rd heat, the motor slowed way down, eventually quitting. After removing it from car, I saw one of the brushes lodged into abs plastic of chassis lol. (Btw motor had a high rpm Whats that all about then? fan blowing on it) So moral is even checking temps won’t tell you what’s going on inside a silver can.. one must use their nose!
  8. I have done touch ups with it using a brush. It’s worth a try.
  9. I like what you’ve done with window trim! 👍 in future I’d recommend using proline paint. It’s designed to stick to lexan and easy to spray with airbrush. Tamiya acrylic paint doesn’t stick to lexan well. I wish Tamiya would come up with an additive that you could mix and use it.. because it’s such a pleasurable paint to work with. PS paint will clean up with denatured alcohol, Denatured is a much stronger solvent. It won’t strip or remove it but you can clean up bleeds with a Q tip. isopropyl alcohol (hospital trade) is not as strong and won’t do much to PS paint.
  10. The rules are meant for close racing and back in the day when they required motor was a Novak 25.5, it was very close. Once Novak shut down, they opened up the motor selection and speculation started with which motor is the best. It is still relatively close and as you mentioned perfect entry class
  11. We’re in Las Vegas Nevada.. our track is called 702RCRaceway
  12. Which brand body do you own? HPI or Protoform
  13. My 7 year old son has made his debut in racing, VTA. Here is his new body for his TT02-S
  14. My first Tamiya was the ORV Brat. No amount of money will make me buy it again. In fact I bought a Brat body but the ORV chassis belongs in purgatory. It is the most idiotic design I have ever come across. The front speaks volumes.. whom ever designed that idiotic front “suspension system” should have performed Sepeku immediately The SRB however is truly a special racing buggy. It is 100% worth all its quirks. Much is made about the lack of a differential, but yet truth be told, it’s not needed on dirt, sand, snow or grass. I should add that I have the diff for SRB and choose to use it without. btw original ORV Brat didn’t come with a differential, only Re-re. So for me, there is no comparison. SRB all the way
  15. You lads across the pond are lucky to have received your bodies. Nothing here in the states as of yet. May need to rethink my Tamiya TCS concours choice
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