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Raman36

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About Raman36

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  • Birthday 04/08/1970

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  1. I wasn't aware there was a Giulia sedan 1/10. Pretty detailed body.. who makes it?
  2. I used to use Deans, but once I started racing I switched to 5mm bullet. To avoid reversing polarity, I trim one wire, so it can’t reach the opposite pole. I also paint the + terminal red. If I ever go back to flying planes, would use XT60. deans are just too dated
  3. Sponges are good for off road. For on road we use o-rings. For instance you rebuilt your shocks and replaced the o-rings, save those and pot them on the ball end 😉 Slop and play go bye bye
  4. It may simply be that your belt is slipping. Over time it stretches out. With 3s it will probably stretch quicker. Increase the tension on it and try again.
  5. I have tried using magnifier, in addition to eye strain, I don’t have good coordination with it lol.. my other eye messes me up. So I opted for prescription glasses 🤦🏻
  6. @Willy iine I recently upped my hobby eyeglasses to 20% magnification lol. Hoping my near sight doesn't get weaker anytime soon
  7. Sledge hammer? 😁 I use a body reamer
  8. Porsche 959 on a new ultra cool 4WD belt driven m chassis called XVM-01 🤩
  9. The original 959 kit used 1/10 size wheels, correct? So I’m thinking of showing up at our next club race with USGT ride tyres and running this against them 🤣
  10. For carpet, we generally run a spool or locked diff. 500k will be too soft, 1 million or 2.5 million will make it easier to drive. To set droop, you disconnect shocks completely. You want to make sure you do left / right evenly. This video should help
  11. That’s a good looking Dino
  12. Tamiya has made one thing clear. They will beat to the sound of their own drum. They have no care for anyone’s opinion outside of Japanese market. When they do a re-release, they do as they like and what fits for them. Here it is, buy if you like it and if it’s not close enough for you, well too bad, because they person standing to your right is going to buy it and we will sell out of it. The reasoning, no two RC lovers will agree on what a re-release should look like. There will always be some complaint and discontent. If they change the plastic, one person will be happy another will be annoyed. If they use the old shock, why didnt they fix the leak. If it’s a new design, why did they change it. Re-releases will continue, but some are probably not viable to be re-released by factors we will never know. I do hope that we get a 959 some day. If it’s on top of the Mf-01X, I would be very happy. Makes the most sense as it is rear motor 😉 If it’s on original chassis, I’d be content as well but wouldn’t do back flips like most.. as the chassis is as durable as peanut brittle. Then there is the livery, will we get the Rothmans?
  13. I’ve raced my XV-01 Pro on carpet and it does extremely well. Car has a lot of potential, far more than TT-01/TT-02. Recommendations: remove long spec tower and install stock plastic towers from kit. Borrow shocks from TT-01 and use those. Fill with 45/450cst oil. Pick up a set of basic Tamiya coloured springs. You’ll probably want blue in front and yellow / or red in rear. Droop: front needs very little as the weight is in front. So turn droop screws until it moves down slightly. Rear you will need a lot of droop as it’s light. Suspension set as follows: front camber 0°, toe out 1° rear camber -2° ride height 5mm
  14. HPI Cup Racer bodies were all 2 piece mould. They rear piece on Datsun 510, Porsche 911, BMW 2002 needed to be attached. The BMW came with light buckets. What I found odd thought was the head lights on body.. they were flush when real car had them protruding
  15. That’s the HPI, identical sticker sheet even.. they either bought the mould or copied it
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