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About Raman36

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  • Birthday 04/08/1970

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  1. I have fibre tape for my F1, which has slots. This thing has no slots lol. Would need to get creative. I placed 2 foam pads to secure the lcg shorty LiPo. Along with the fence included in the kid it should hold things in place, baring a big crash.. which I have no plans for.. I’ll probably run this once and then shelf it lol. Need to pick up paint for the body this week
  2. Electronics done for the moment. Servo is basic Futaba, until I get my hands on a proper digital servo. Battery holder leaves much to be desired. I get they this was designed for stick packs, but it’s still pretty poorly thought out.
  3. I have a stash of the Alfa bodies. I hoard them.. my avatar should explain enough. As far as M chassis are concerned, I keep rwd bodies on rwd chassis. Front wheel drives are not allowed in my house. 🤣
  4. The internal ratio on the Egress is very high. Haven’t actually calculated it or. I doubt changing from 22t to 20t would matter even with a 13.5. On my Optima which has a lower fdr, I’m running a 10.5 with the optional smaller spur gear. No issues there.
  5. Yes it’s the mod 0.6 motor. I’m starting mine out with an old Novak 17.5 brushless. May later move to 13.5 brushless. Most are using the brushed shower stock BZ or RZ. it all depends what you want to do. Even silver can will work fine.
  6. Lmao.. if you’re in states, pm me and I’ll send you info of a shop that can give you a good break on the kit
  7. You need to know a guy who has a van parked in the alley in a seedy neighbourhood
  8. After screwing in cap, shocks may extend due to air being trapped between the bladder snd cap. This is called rebound. You can build your shocks with rebound or you can try to minimise it. I minimise it. On these shocks this is done by loosening cap, pushing in piston 90%, and then tightening the cap. Oil will seep from cap down the body, because the thread has an escape channel. You may need to do this a couple of times to achieve minimum rebound.
  9. I started build mid afternoon yesterday and finished by evening. The rear diff went in kind of snug. It moves but wasn’t very free. Front was ok. Plastic on gear box might be slightly warped. Rear suspension arms attachment is quite a unique set up lol. How they came up with that over an A arm is interesting. Sturdy car though, rock solid. Next up body paint. I’m thinking under tray carbon look. Body wine red.
  10. Well it was a 1:1 I’d say it might not run. But since it’s a 1/12 I’d bet it will run with no issues.. just needs a battery
  11. Oh heck no, I’m not paying $822 to TamiyaUSA. I had the track owner where I race order it for me. He gave me a hefty break! 😉
  12. TD4 was created for club / spec racing. It’s a middle level platform that Tamiya will continue to expand on. There are items in the parts tree that reference future planning for the chassis.
  13. Do you have any experience with using a 64p gear and a mod 0.4? It certainly doesn’t sound like it. I run 64p gears in 4 cars which I race every weekend and have used Mod 0.4 pinions without stripping gears or loud / excessive noise due to improper mesh. I am also unclear of your comment about actively clamping down on the misuse? Are you part of a RC / gearing governing body that we are not aware of?
  14. I get that it's not a thing based on metric vs english measuring system. Tamiya also calls Mod 0.6 AV gears, which can be confusing to newcomers into the hobby. Mod 0.6 has been marketed by some brands in the past, in particular Robinson racing as metric 48p for years (since discontinued) For some of us who have been in the hobby long enough and live on a different side of the world, this nomenclature has stuck. If anything, Mod 0.4 should have been called Metric 64p because they are extremely close. In a pinch, you can use a Mod 0.4 pinion with a 64p spur or vice versa. I did so in last weeks race when I couldn't find a 42t 64p pinion.
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