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jimbo858

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Posts posted by jimbo858

  1. As long as the charger specifications covers the battery voltage and current needs, I also use it for my NiMH AA cells for my TXs or digicam which I group 4 or 8 together to get 4,8V or 9.6V, you must beware though that they are of the same capacity and in a similar charge state before (best all empty) as otherwise you might overcharge or undercharge some.

    Cheers

    You know I was thinking about doing that. But, I'm always afraid that I would overcharge and/or undercharge some.  Especially with my old Versapak NiCads.  I used to think those things were ****.  I can't count how many I've had to throw away... uh-hmmm... I meant.... RECYCLE.  It really bugs me to cause those batteries are not cheap and are not that easy to find.  I just can't see why Black and Decker doesn't offer a better solution to their cheap chargers.  After using my R/C charger and a Venom Discharger to cycle some of my old NiCads they seem to be doing much better now. One of them is almost as good as the newer NiMh's Versapaks that I have.  I guess those cheap wall chargers just KILL and DESTROY batteries. 

    Too bad I can't use my r/c charger for my digicam.  My digicams and video camera all use lithium batteries...

  2. heya Jimbo, could ya pls post a pic of these NiMH Versapak batteries??

    I got a whole slew of Versapak devices and they're all running on nicads (most slowing dying), would be great to know B&D makes some modern batts for them.

     And yeah, I use my RC chargers for everything, including the Versapak batts. Just jumper them in series with a croc-clip jumperlead and charge then at 7.2V @3A - done in 20mins. [:)]

    Here you go!

    p39720z.jpg

    with my Versapak batteries I use the alligator clips that came with my charger as well. But, I only charge one battery at a time. It's hard to find any info on the composition of the battery (i.e. how many cells, mah, etc.). But, I read somewhere that each 3.6v Versapak is compromised of 3 cells (3 x 1.2v= 3.6v). I charge my Versapak batteries at 1.0amp. If this is wrong can some guru please let me know? Otherwise, at that setting my Versapak gold batteries and the regular Versapak (NiCad) batteries seem to work great! I've even been contemplating hacking an old Versapak Pivot Screwdriver to use a regular 7.2V battery pack. Ahh... haven't had the chance though....

  3. Just curious. Am I the only one that uses their r/c charger to charge other "cordless" battery operated stuff or does everyone use their r/c chargers for everything like me? But,  I've been using my  MRC Super Brain 959 charger to charge:

    -my NiMh versapak Black & Decker batteries.

    -my Bissell Go Vac rechargeable vaccum

    -the NiCad battery pack for a portable fan

    The r/c charger is just so much better at charging these batteries than the cheapo wall chargers that they usually come with.  With my Versapak batteries I get a much better charge AND I don't have to worry about the OEM charger ruinning the batteries 

    Anyhow, it's probably a stupid question.  But, I was just curious...

  4. Shocks that work well are fronts from the Duratrax Evader or the Losi

    XX.  If you go for anything bigger you do not get anymore

    suspension travel due to the design of the arms. The Evader BX shocks

    seem best, the ones from the ST are a little too long. I've ordered

    Duratrax shocks from ebayers in the US with no problems. The good old

    tamiya CVAs work ok too but need some stiffer springs.

    I finally got my E-Maxx shocks on my counterfeit TL01B this past weekend.  So, nice to NOT have the thing bottom out all the time now.  Oh and that's why I'm using bigger shocks.  Not for the suspension travel. But, they just seem better able to handle the weight of the bigger 560 sized motor and 7 cell battery pack.

  5. Yes thanks for all those links. But i live in uk , its mutch harder to find the parts you need ove here.

    Ill keep looking or maybe arange to buy with american sellers. Just a bit of palarva.

    Cheers

    Actually, http://www.morfars.dk is in Finland (if I'm not

    mistaken?).  And I've even ordered stuff from England and

    Europe.  The reason?  They seem nicer.  Oh and as for

    those Hong Kong sellers... Maybe it's just me. But, they take

    FOREVER.  The only Hong Kong seller I'd recommend is

    www.rcmart.com  I had one problem with a shipment being lost and

    they replaced it.  Took awhile. But, they were in constant contact

    and we very easy to work with.  And comparing US ebayers to the

    Hong Kong sellers...  I find that the US ebayers tend to take even

    longer to ship to me than the Hong Kong sellers do.  oh well...

    good luck!

  6. Okay, this is a stretch.... Perhaps when Tamiya states that the DB/WD/TD trucks have a "TL-01" chassis they don't mean that the chassis part itself is "exactly" the same but rather it's a reference to the fact that so many parts are shared between the TL-01, TL-01B, and the DB/TD/WD trucks. Basically, all those trucks started from the same design with differences in the chassis.

    Anyhow, to answer the question about "oil shocks for the DB". I've seen some 70mm shocks on ebay every now and then that look good. Also, the 75mm shocks from www.morfars.com should work.

    http://www.morfars.dk/rc/product_info.php?...34eed354c732147

    Yes, I know it's listed for the "hated" Bonzer TL-01B copycat. But, again the suspension on both the TL-01B and the DB/TD/WD is very similar.

    Oh www.ebay.com there's one seller there that sell some 55mm shocks. But, I tried them and they are really too short for the TL-01B or DB/TD/WD setups.  the 55mm shocks would work fine for an on road TL-01 setup.  But, there's just not enough travel on the 55mm shocks for offroad (IMHO).  So, don't get those. But, from time to time there are some 70-75mm shocks on www.ebay.com.  I just can't remember the seller off the top of my head.  I guess you could always just go and get a set of 70mm shocks and make them fit. That shouldn't be too bad.

    What I've done for my WD is I've gotten a custom shock mount (you can make these on your own, you can get them on ebay, or you can get them from some other customizers here on the board).  Those custom shock mounts will let you use 4" shocks.  I'm currently using 4" shocks from an E-Maxx and I'm happy with them.  They seem to work better AND they definitely look better...

  7. yup, I've got a Bonze (the counterfeit TL01B) and I've got a Wild Dagger.  Truth be told....  The Wild Dagger is a MUCH better truck.  My Bonzer is okay. But, the gearing is a constant problem.  However, I did find a 650 sized motor that I might try in it to see.  Only problem is that it's a 12t motor. So, I'll need to buy a new ESC and radio for the Bonzer.  I'm pretty sure that it won't be able to handle the bigger motor without melting the 2-in-1 ESC/Radio.

  8. i had my original lunchbox up for sale on ebay. my terms and conditions clearly state contact within 24 hours and payment within four day or negative feedback left. the buyer made no contact for two days then only after two invoices sent and i was told he would pay when he had the funds which is not what i want. sent a few emails not to bad but in the last one very abusive with four letter wording and asked me to phone. which i did he says he can pay when he likes i said if he didnt agree with my terms he shouldnt have bid and the same goes if he doesnt have the funds to pay. the worst of this is its a fellow tamiya club member if anyone wants further details and to read the emails contaxt me by email

    wow... that's really bad. I wonder what makes that person feel like they're entitled to treat other people so badly? seriously, what's the world coming to now-a-days? 

  9. hiya gravedigger!  sorry to hear about the problems that you're having.  lemme know how your custom shock mount for the TL01B comes out. I'd like to get one made that'll allow for 4inch or 100mm shocks.  Anyways, the internals of the Bonzer/Baja Champ are totally different from the internals of the Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator.  The differentials might be similar and the bevel gears I think are the same. But the gearbox, chassis, etc. are different. even the body mounts are different. hopes this helps.  OH and if you want... go to the manual section of theWild Dagger or Twin Detonator to compare them with your Bonzer. They've helped me a great deal!

  10. this is the body I ordered from my LHS. I was going to order one from Kamtec, via ebay. but, they never answered my emails.  So, I just went to my LHS. Showed them the Parma PSE body I wanted and they ordered it for me!

    10340.jpg

    click on the picture to have it take you to the Parma Website for more info.

  11. Okay, so I took out the my original Bonzer motor to compare it with the "replacement" Bonzer motor that I just received. The two motors are definitely NOT the same. 

    BonzerMotorsSmall.jpg

    the picture above shows four motors from left to right; My Old Bonzer motor, The new Bonzer motor, a Johnson 63706 motor, and a stock param 540 sized motor. The old motor is just so much BIGGER! I think it's got similar measurements to the Graupner 700 Speed motor? I also put the new motor in my Bonzer and it just didn't have the torque or speed that my original motor had. hhhmm... more inconsistencies... first the front one-way differential and now this... oh well...

  12. okay... I just tried running the old TL01B truck today WITH the tire foams. for some reason it seemed like it was causing me to flip endlessly! It could've been the newer tires. I dunno. BUT, on the brightside it almost always landed on it's wheels!  hahahaha... Okay, so tomorrow I'm gonna try bashing around again without the foams and see if there's a difference. thanks for the insight to you both. 

  13. hey everyone, these are REALLY good tips. things that I wouldn't have

    thought of.  So, anyhow... Now, I've got to go get some of these

    supplies to mask everything off with. BTW, I don't think that my Tamiya

    Twin Detonator body came with any protective coverings.  But, the

    Parma PSE Beetle body I have does...  weird...

  14. Hiya Gravedigger, thanks for answering me!  Yeah, I'm hoping that the 23t will give me more power and not burn up the motor. But, I went ahead and ordered an extra motor just in case.  I also got another set of rims with tires and foams for $19(US).  what a STEAL!  It is interesting though. Like you said the quality isn't consistent. For example, the extra motor that I just bought seems to be just a bit smaller than my original motor.  Oh, so what happens when you spin one of the front wheels backwards? Do any of the other wheels turn as well? Oh and the place I found that sells spare parts, they sell spare body shells for $11(US)!  I think I'm gonna pickup about 3 of them to use for bashing! I've got a Twin Detonator body that I want to use as a good shell.

  15. gravediggernz or jeckler!  I've gotta question for one of you.  did your Bonzer's come with one way locker differentials for the front differential?  For example, when lift the truck and turn one of the front wheels it forces ALL four wheels to turn backwards at the same time. Forwards either side spins freely "on it's own" unlike the bevel gears I'm used to.  So, I was just wondering about this.

    At the moment on mine I'm gonna try to take a different route and I'm gonna gear this little truck UP.  I'm gonna order the tamiya speed gears and a 23t pinion.  The current stocker motor currently doesn't get  hot AND the motor is HUGE when I compare it to my 21t Venom motor. I'm also currently running it with a 7 cell battery with no problems.  So.... I'll keep my fingers crossed that nothing lights on fire.  Oh and I'm trying to find some way to get custom shock towers and shocks for this thing cause the stocks shocks are just WAY too small for it.

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