malcolm

If you put a small cable tie around the male half of the Deans plug, so it passes between the pins on one side and the wires at the other, keeping the end of it out of the way of the pins, when you push the Deans together there will be a thin gap between the plug and socket. This makes it a lot easier to get them apart afterwards. The other trick is to leave the Deans plugged in to for ages, this flattens the spring, making removal a bit easier. Takes a while though! For competition I awlays hard wire my motors and use Deans for the battery to ESC connection. This isn't really necessary for the odd 'runner', but I detest those bullet connectors on the motor wires, if you use anything other than the kit 540 they soon break down and overheat.

I've scanned one of the many TL01 manuals that another member asked about, and the zipped folder was over 8 meg in size. Since I don't think a file that size will email I broke it down in to 5 smaller folders and sent five emails. Hope that makes sense!

I've used Fender Mender on many bodies over the last few years and never had it melt the paint. I mostly use Pactra, Tamiya and Fastcolour paints. Perhaps the problem is with the paint, not the Fender Mender.

Just a warning to you guy's with American 72 or 75 MHz gear, it is actually illegal to use this gear in the UK and also illegal to import it. Destroy it or sell it back on e-bay. The 27, 40 and 459 Mhz bands are available for surface model use as long as they are not abused. If widespread abuse is detected, all bands could be withdrawn. Do you want that? The UK government has a long history of showing little tolerance of abuse of the radio airways, as anyone who remembers the CB fiasco and, even further back, the Pirate Radio story will remember. So be sensible, USE ONLY LEGAL RADIO GEAR.

Chris, richtea: I paid via PayPal last night and had no balance in my account, so the payment came off my registered card, so yes, this side of things works fine.

Welcome back Chris! A few days without the site and I couldn't beleive how much I missed it all! Great new look!

Just found a Sauber on eyou know where, had posted the item number but I'll mail it to you as it seems to be against the rules! Regards Malcolm

I can offer a NIB Tyrell 018 or a Ferrari 643. Both are NIB, but no front wing sets I'm afraid. I guess these are a little old for your F103 unfortunately.

team_toshi YGM Malcolm

Definitely interested in the March 782 decals. Mail me at mnorwood@btconnect.com with a price. Thanks Malcolm Norwood

Snettrton has it's own web site, contact details are on there: http://www.smmcc.co.uk

The 'optimum length tool' (or should that be optimum tool length?)has a fatal flaw, the Receiver has a circuit at the front end that matches the actual aerial wire to the Rf stage, making it look like a full quarter or half wavelength. So the actual length is not important, just that the front end is 'tuned' to the piece of wire used. I have 4 or 5 40 MHz receivers that have been back to the agents for service , in many cases that included fitting a new antenna, and all give good range, but all have different antenna lengths! The best way is to buy a length of aerial wire from your LHS and fit it to the Receiver. Then do a range check. Do this by switching everything on with the transmitter aerial fully retracted. Stand in open space (like the local park) and set the model somewhere so you can see it. Leave the motor disconnected or the pinion off for safety. Now walk away while operating the steering from left to right and back. If the servo starts to go stupid before you are 50 meters away, that's not enough. If you have a pretty good range with the tx aerial folded, it will be much, much greater with it extended. You could try different lengths of receiver wire by snipping away at the lead, as it may improve with less wire, but that's a bit hit and miss and it would be better to get it looked at by the experts.

njmlondon, YGM.

quote:Originally posted by kenI am now using a LRP quantum reverse ESC(16T-36T), but have yet change the kit motor as I am confused on the types of motor out there(stock, modified,rebuildable stock??)[?][?] can someone give me some "lectures" on the differences of these motor?[] id="quote">id="quote">I'll try not to lecture! The kit Tamiya motor (gold 540) was developed into two types of motor, the 'stock' and the 'modified'. The so called stock motor now has 27 turns of a single wind around each of it's 3 poles. It still uses bushes but has replaceable brushes and has a fixed end-bell. In 1999 Trinity produced the Paradox, which was the first 're-buildable' stock. The end bell can be removed and so the armature can be taken out and skimmed to restore the comm for maximum performance. Both of these motors have the timing fixed at 24 degrees of advance. This is a heck of a lot of advance and gives the motor lots of rpm, at the expense of efficiency. Since we have 2400, 3000 and 3300 cells, so what! Well the poor motor gets very hot and it's life can be brief if over-geared! The 'modified' motor has ball races instead of bushes, and the end bell is adjustable to change the timing. The rules allow the armature to be wound with any number of turns, 12, 13, 19 etc. Winds vary and you will see singles, doubles, triples etc. The most popular are the doubles, as they give a good combination of torque versus rpm. As a rule of thumb, a triple will rev higher but have less torque than a double of the same wind. Medium winds, like 15 to 19, give significantly improved output over the kit motor, and as long as you keep the timing advance at a small amount (probably just as it came) they will give long life and good run times, if geared properly. If you go to the extremes, then you are trying to get more and more out of the same size brush/commutator/case. Something has to give and it is usually reliability! If you want your Tamiya to go a good bit quicker and not break the bank, look out for the mid priced modifieds like the Orion Orbital series. The armature is usually machine wound and they won't have the very latest in magnet technology, but that will make little difference. They will last longer and cost nearly half the price of the top of the range motor. They are also longer lasting than re-buildable stock motors, and a good bit faster. They will make the car a bit exciting to drive though! The rebuildable stock is a great concept and I like them a lot. I have raced them indoors and out and have learned how to make them last. They do need a fair bit of TLC and will not take kindly to abuse. They are really intended for racer's who use them because they have to. If you are not running in competition, their only advantage is the low initial cost. Enough for this post. If you want any more, just ask!

Low wind modifieds generally give high revs and lower torque at stall, so need lower gearing (smaller pinion) for good acceleration. According to Tamiya, the overall ratio of the TB01 is from 9.9 to 5.7 to 1. A really wild modified like an 8 would be rather overgeared at 5.7 to 1, which is the sort of gearing that stock motor racers use. You may not be trying to make 5 minute runs, but the motor will still overheat severely with a large pinion and your £60 modified won't last very long. If the magnets get very hot they loose their strength and then the motor is just a door stop!