Rogueraven

Thanks for the help managed to file down a No. 7 spanner to fit the nut for those that are interested now that i've leaned the fuel out leak of unspent fuel stopped however hard to tell if gas coming out the join guess if there is a performance drop it be minimal. Can someone tell me what type of glow plug is best for the Kyosho GX-12 engine i took the one in now out but no number on the plug so i put pulg back if because it fine for now but i will need to replace sometime so rather trial and error i get the information now i've read somewhere OS A3 works and that A3 is now No 6 and is a Hot plug is this a wise choice ? using 16% fuel ATM. any tips on fuel and plug be great

Hello need some help i'm new to Nitro and Kyosho. rather get Tamiya myself, but i salvaged this car from friend of a friend. after finding out what model it was, i was able to order missing parts and rebuild the front and the rear sections of the car. now came the fun bit of starting it however i had problems getting it too start. so i checked the glow plug found out that looks almost new and is glowing nicely. i found the Engine manual (GX-12) and found out i had to re-adjust all the servo and the throttle valve and idle pin bit now i got that setup perfectly almost needs slight adjustments everytime i start it however i thinking thats got something to do with my next problem which i need help with. when car is sitting still not running for awhile it started leaking unspent fuel from the exhaust system (in picture) from that i know its running too Rich however i have problem on Needle valve and i dont have a spanner/wrench to fix the problem or a part number for the spanner/wrench so can order one. this is nut i need spanner for any help with part number for spanner This is where unspent fuel is leaking from. once i lean it out the leaking of fuel would stop but would a leak in gas from this location dampen performance ?

Guessing TA-05IFS Mazda RX8 body set

58398 is Ferrari FXX TA-05 1/10 Rc Kit according to a quick websearch no information for 58400 unused model number seems to be link to a future release from what i've been reading another kit.

i understand they have to try and sell yet too me in certain stores in my area its not the fact they try to sell you something it the fact they try and force sell you something. and again they dont need to make out there experts in the model alot of them explain the model perfectly however they take it that step further and make out the model is something you know its not. in all fairness they over step the mark in the 2 areas i've highlighted. but this is only in the ones that dont specialize. i used to go to 2 models stores when i was younger they have closed now. both was run by elderly gentleman but the one store specialized in plastic models (Airfix,Revell etc) the other store was RC only (Planes,Helis,Cars,Boats) these 2 stores was a wonder to go to because they both didn't fabricate information to sell you something they knew what they was selling and sold it they didnt need to twist the truth on the models. where as the stores today just dont seem to employ the people that take interest in what store is selling or are only interested in a specific thing the store is selling and it shows. i think a perfect store will train its staff to a degree of understanding for what that store sells. and also train them not to go beyond the truth when it comes to selling something. i'm happy with the LMS in my area thou i would be happier if they would stick to the truth more often about the things they sell. i'm not thinknig of my self here i'm thinking of beginners who could be stung by poor information or over fabricated information

there are a few models shop in my general area however alot of them are expensive. which ok compared to the likes of ebay its expected but some are generally ok. but alot of the time some of the stores workforce look to push a sale rather then give the advice your looking for. service is generally good to a point but when they have talked themself out of a sale for 1 item they tend to become rash and try to sell you anything. i think the workforce in most models shops are not RC model collectors but merely model collectors and maybe not even that in some cases. and i think that is the let down with stores. that dont specialize in a give area of modelling but look at a whole aspect. they have limited knowledge is certain areas of what there dealing and it clearly shows. obviously this is just my opinion and i think the reason for this opinion is the fact i more the type of person that likes people to step up and say i dont know rather then people pretending they do. and pretending they do is the type of feeling i get when speaking to model shop workers hey Topforcein if youre still reading this thread what model shop are you talking about Penn Models i'm guessing ?

could always apply mouse over pictures with the watermark. would mean when viewing pictures on TC not to put your mouse over the image. basicly thou if you did and tried to save picture you would get the watermarked version. would mean if someone wanted a picture they would have to PM the owner for it. i dont know about internet codes and webpage development but pretty sure this is possible but hten again if it is then i guess there is away around it too

when you successfully convert your wife lol

i send e-mails to the sellers after 2 weeks to find out what was going on. more expensive items are generally sent by recorded mail so the seller can actually chase up the parcels whereabout and inform you or they can provide you the information to chase them up yourself. all my items i ordered around the time of the postal strikes arrive around 2 weeks after the seller had dispatched them. good sellers generally will go out there way for a customer. my advise is send sellers mail asking if items was sent by recorded mail and if so could they find out the items situation or send you the information to chase up the items yourself. no harm could be done and if it wasnt sent by recorded mail your in no worse a situation then before you sent the e-mail so really you got nothing to lose

Still looking for Nitro car to add to my collection. would like some advice on a couple models i've took a fancy too and hope your experiences can help me choose the correct one or make me look elsewhere. i'm inexperienced with Nitro never owned one. and only have a budget of around 200,$400 US,also i dont really trust my LHS they tend to focus more on how much money they can make rather then to help find a deal that suits you the 2 models i've looked at so far are RTR form Modelsports website but i dont mind looking at AAR's longs price to get them RTR doesnt go over my budget Ansmann Virus http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=28293 Tamiya Mad Spirit http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=26871 if anyone can tell me anything about the option i provide or give me some options to look at i'd appreciate it very much

when you have a lifetimes supply of every type of screw under 20mm

least you havent started using her jewelry boxes for parts storage boxes yet

Thanks all. was thinking of going for one of the HPI RS4 models for beginners if my budget will allow me, thou i'm also looking to add another electric to my collection so at moment i just want to gain knowledge on the whole Petrol/Nitro scene beings my budget can only go so far

thinking off adding a Nitro or Petrol RC to my collection thou i havent a clue about them,i'm wondering if there is any books i can buy that will tell me the ins and outs of looking after a Nitro or Petrol RC Thanks

think to setup a merchant who may not have had the laws highlighted to him prior to the setup is wrong and shouldnt stand. however if the laws have been highlighted to him then he should face whatever the punishment is for breaking the laws. cracking down on this is only a good thing in terms of how our neighbourhoods look. however if your gunna crack down on something people shouldnt be doing i think you also need to implament something they could be doing legally in its place otherwise they will just turn too something else that could be illegal. in this sort of case i'd have art gallerys in ever town but only showing local arts have something in place where spray artist can improve there skills and even get there work publicly shown legally on canvas rather then illegally on someones wall. thou the way they approach the crack down is not targetting the entire spectrum alot of the artist are over the legal age to buy spraypaint so this is not going to effect them in anyway shape or form instead you need to target this age area with harsher punishments to crack down on the entire age spectrum of those involved. interested topic area of concern great read

Thanks will buy 53440 for the extra hard set

looks like i'll get TRF. the TRF set with white spings? these white springs same as white springs in the On-Road Tuned Spring Set 53440 ?

use a block of wood between shelf and car chassis just to lift the car off its tires. you can spray the block of wood same color as shelf to blend it in

remove the bar for rear wheel drive burns your tires but nice for drifts. TL-01 is solid chassis i think for beginner. might need to add scratch plate on motor side so you dont shred your motor cans other then that its fine, might want to look for cracks on lower side of chassis where the wishbones attach thou there pretty strong they do had tendency to crack near the wishbone attachments. but i think you picked up a very nice deal

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alloy-Oil-Shock-Damp...1QQcmdZViewItem general will use car for racing however i will adjust for drifting every now and then

Whats the difference. TRF Damper set (53571) C.V.A Mini Shocks (53619) Low Friction Aluminium Dampers (53155) Alloy Oil Shock Dampers (Hobbysave Ebay) other then the price. can anyone tell me any difference in performance ? or advise which set to get

Diffs deliever the torgue to the wheels without them the car would be very nasty at handling anyway Gear Diffs. when cornering the outside wheels ultimately runs faster then the inner wheels. the diffs allow for slip on the inner wheels during cornering slowing them so the car turns better. you lose traction on the inner wheels using the geared diffs because there less precise. thou gear diffs wear less but can increase tire wear. Ball Diffs allow for a smoother torgue adjustments. giving more traction to the inner wheels during cornering as a result you get improved handling. improved tire wear however Balls diffs are more prone to wear because they worked harder then gear diffs. less forgiving also during corner the traction gained on the 2 wheels can easily become traction lose on all 4 wheels the harder you push during corner this is my understanding of how they work and i think from what you put you already might have known this anyway sure someone else might correct me or we got anything wrong. anyway in RC Terms i think the ball diffs are the better option

thanks for advice. will add caps to one of the arcing motors its a newish motor but doesnt have caps inside or outside the can so i think it might benefit with some. this the best way of adding caps to motor or is there a better way ?. 1 Cap from Motor + to Motor - 1 Cap from Motor + to Motor Can 1 Cap from Motor - to Motor Can got this example from a Ansmanns Motor

58T/23T is good option. whoops should read to end first

found little info regarding power caps. i've come to the conclusion that people who use them, tend to use 4700uf 10v Electrolyic Capacitors, thou i find its easier to get a hold of the 4700uf 16v i doubt there is much difference between the 2 but would like to know if there is if anyone could. The other thing is i've read a thread somewhere that you should only use them on forward only ESC or a ESC programmed for forward and brake. is this true or can i use them on forward/reverse prgramed ESc too ? Finally on Power Caps do you attach power caps to Cap + to Batt + Cap - to Batt - at ESC ? or is it Cap + to Motor + and Cap - to Batt - Motor Caps i got couple motors that arc and have no caps fitted. when trianglating Caps on motors are the caps used 0.1uf Ceramic Disc , i think they BX03D or BXO3D or maybe 104J Caps not sure about this but could someone clear this up for me Thanks