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Rogueraven

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Posts posted by Rogueraven

  1. Posted

    Thanks for the help B) managed to file down a No. 7 spanner to fit the nut for those that are interested now that i've leaned the fuel out leak of unspent fuel stopped however hard to tell if gas coming out the join guess if there is a performance drop it be minimal.

    Can someone tell me what type of glow plug is best for the Kyosho GX-12 engine i took the one in now out but no number on the plug so i put pulg back if because it fine for now but i will need to replace sometime so rather trial and error i get the information now i've read somewhere OS A3 works and that A3 is now No 6 and is a Hot plug is this a wise choice ? using 16% fuel ATM. any tips on fuel and plug be great

  2. Posted

    Hello need some help i'm new to Nitro and Kyosho. rather get Tamiya myself, but i salvaged this car from friend of a friend. after finding out what model it was, i was able to order missing parts and rebuild the front and the rear sections of the car.

    now came the fun bit of starting it however i had problems getting it too start. so i checked the glow plug found out that looks almost new and is glowing nicely. i found the Engine manual (GX-12) and found out i had to re-adjust all the servo and the throttle valve and idle pin bit now i got that setup perfectly almost needs slight adjustments everytime i start it however i thinking thats got something to do with my next problem which i need help with. when car is sitting still not running for awhile it started leaking unspent fuel from the exhaust system (in picture) from that i know its running too Rich however i have problem on Needle valve and i dont have a spanner/wrench to fix the problem or a part number for the spanner/wrench so can order one.

    Nut1.JPG

    this is nut i need spanner for any help with part number for spanner

    Leak1.JPG

    This is where unspent fuel is leaking from. once i lean it out the leaking of fuel would stop but would a leak in gas from this location dampen performance ?

  4. Posted

    ?? :)

    Related to 58400?

    Or am I just REALLY thick and missed a post elsewhere. :)

    58398 is Ferrari FXX TA-05 1/10 Rc Kit according to a quick websearch

    no information for 58400 unused model number seems to be link to a future release from what i've been reading another kit.

  5. Posted

    I really hope you're not in the retail trade. You can hardly go into shop and expect them not to try and sell you somthing. I know they could do it a bit more subtly and it is anoying when they try and make out that they are experts in everything but come on its thier job.

    Tupers

    i understand they have to try and sell yet too me in certain stores in my area its not the fact they try to sell you something it the fact they try and force sell you something. and again they dont need to make out there experts in the model alot of them explain the model perfectly however they take it that step further and make out the model is something you know its not. in all fairness they over step the mark in the 2 areas i've highlighted. but this is only in the ones that dont specialize.

    i used to go to 2 models stores when i was younger they have closed now. both was run by elderly gentleman but the one store specialized in plastic models (Airfix,Revell etc) the other store was RC only (Planes,Helis,Cars,Boats) these 2 stores was a wonder to go to because they both didn't fabricate information to sell you something they knew what they was selling and sold it they didnt need to twist the truth on the models. where as the stores today just dont seem to employ the people that take interest in what store is selling or are only interested in a specific thing the store is selling and it shows.

    i think a perfect store will train its staff to a degree of understanding for what that store sells. and also train them not to go beyond the truth when it comes to selling something. i'm happy with the LMS in my area thou i would be happier if they would stick to the truth more often about the things they sell. i'm not thinknig of my self here i'm thinking of beginners who could be stung by poor information or over fabricated information

  6. Posted

    there are a few models shop in my general area however alot of them are expensive. which ok compared to the likes of ebay its expected but some are generally ok. but alot of the time some of the stores workforce look to push a sale rather then give the advice your looking for. service is generally good to a point but when they have talked themself out of a sale for 1 item they tend to become rash and try to sell you anything.

    i think the workforce in most models shops are not RC model collectors but merely model collectors and maybe not even that in some cases. and i think that is the let down with stores. that dont specialize in a give area of modelling but look at a whole aspect. they have limited knowledge is certain areas of what there dealing and it clearly shows.

    obviously this is just my opinion and i think the reason for this opinion is the fact i more the type of person that likes people to step up and say i dont know rather then people pretending they do. and pretending they do is the type of feeling i get when speaking to model shop workers

    hey Topforcein if youre still reading this thread what model shop are you talking about Penn Models i'm guessing ?

  7. Posted

    could always apply mouse over pictures with the watermark. would mean when viewing pictures on TC not to put your mouse over the image. basicly thou if you did and tried to save picture you would get the watermarked version. would mean if someone wanted a picture they would have to PM the owner for it. i dont know about internet codes and webpage development but pretty sure this is possible but hten again if it is then i guess there is away around it too

  9. Posted

    i send e-mails to the sellers after 2 weeks to find out what was going on. more expensive items are generally sent by recorded mail so the seller can actually chase up the parcels whereabout and inform you or they can provide you the information to chase them up yourself. all my items i ordered around the time of the postal strikes arrive around 2 weeks after the seller had dispatched them. good sellers generally will go out there way for a customer. my advise is send sellers mail asking if items was sent by recorded mail and if so could they find out the items situation or send you the information to chase up the items yourself. no harm could be done and if it wasnt sent by recorded mail your in no worse a situation then before you sent the e-mail so really you got nothing to lose

  10. Posted

    Still looking for Nitro car to add to my collection. would like some advice on a couple models i've took a fancy too and hope your experiences can help me choose the correct one or make me look elsewhere. i'm inexperienced with Nitro never owned one. and only have a budget of around 200,$400 US,also i dont really trust my LHS they tend to focus more on how much money they can make rather then to help find a deal that suits you

    the 2 models i've looked at so far are RTR form Modelsports website but i dont mind looking at AAR's longs price to get them RTR doesnt go over my budget

    Ansmann Virus http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=28293

    Tamiya Mad Spirit http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...mp;ItemID=26871

    if anyone can tell me anything about the option i provide or give me some options to look at i'd appreciate it very much

  12. Posted

    I love Tamiya, I started racing Tamiyas back when i was around 12. I am almost 32 now *shivers*. Now mind you I did have a LONG break in between there, but when I made the choice to come back to the hobby I went right back to good ol trusty Tamiya.

    As it stands now here are the cars I have

    TT-01 Heavily modified

    TA-05MS Stock... for now.

    RTR Porsche GT which doesn't seem upgradable at all

    coming soon

    Either a TRF 415MSX or 416, I haven't decided which ill order. 416 is "coming soon" but I can pre-order it.

    Also looking at EVO V since I am used to shaft drive...

    The wife is used to my expensive hobbies, from my Wii/PS3 and about 35 games between both of them, to my electronics addiction, and just as she got happy that I stopped playing golf so frequently and sold off my clubs the smile half stopped when i turned to RC :D

    least you havent started using her jewelry boxes for parts storage boxes yet :(

  13. Posted

    Thanks all.

    was thinking of going for one of the HPI RS4 models for beginners :D if my budget will allow me, thou i'm also looking to add another electric to my collection so at moment i just want to gain knowledge on the whole Petrol/Nitro scene beings my budget can only go so far :(

  15. Posted

    think to setup a merchant who may not have had the laws highlighted to him prior to the setup is wrong and shouldnt stand. however if the laws have been highlighted to him then he should face whatever the punishment is for breaking the laws.

    cracking down on this is only a good thing in terms of how our neighbourhoods look. however if your gunna crack down on something people shouldnt be doing i think you also need to implament something they could be doing legally in its place otherwise they will just turn too something else that could be illegal. in this sort of case i'd have art gallerys in ever town but only showing local arts have something in place where spray artist can improve there skills and even get there work publicly shown legally on canvas rather then illegally on someones wall.

    thou the way they approach the crack down is not targetting the entire spectrum alot of the artist are over the legal age to buy spraypaint so this is not going to effect them in anyway shape or form instead you need to target this age area with harsher punishments to crack down on the entire age spectrum of those involved.

    interested topic area of concern great read :)

  16. Posted

    The white springs in the special blue set are the same as the yellow springs in the 53571 set, ie medium. The whites have a tiny yellow spot on one end. The whites in 53440 are extra hard.

    Thanks will buy 53440 for the extra hard set

  19. Posted

    remove the bar for rear wheel drive burns your tires but nice for drifts. TL-01 is solid chassis i think for beginner. might need to add scratch plate on motor side so you dont shred your motor cans other then that its fine, might want to look for cracks on lower side of chassis where the wishbones attach thou there pretty strong they do had tendency to crack near the wishbone attachments. but i think you picked up a very nice deal

  21. Posted

    Whats the difference.

    TRF Damper set (53571)

    C.V.A Mini Shocks (53619)

    Low Friction Aluminium Dampers (53155)

    Alloy Oil Shock Dampers (Hobbysave Ebay)

    other then the price. can anyone tell me any difference in performance ? or advise which set to get

  22. Posted

    Diffs deliever the torgue to the wheels without them the car would be very nasty at handling anyway

    Gear Diffs. when cornering the outside wheels ultimately runs faster then the inner wheels. the diffs allow for slip on the inner wheels during cornering slowing them so the car turns better. you lose traction on the inner wheels using the geared diffs because there less precise. thou gear diffs wear less but can increase tire wear.

    Ball Diffs allow for a smoother torgue adjustments. giving more traction to the inner wheels during cornering as a result you get improved handling. improved tire wear however Balls diffs are more prone to wear because they worked harder then gear diffs. less forgiving also during corner the traction gained on the 2 wheels can easily become traction lose on all 4 wheels the harder you push during corner

    this is my understanding of how they work and i think from what you put you already might have known this anyway sure someone else might correct me or we got anything wrong. anyway in RC Terms i think the ball diffs are the better option

  23. Posted

    thanks for advice.

    will add caps to one of the arcing motors its a newish motor but doesnt have caps inside or outside the can so i think it might benefit with some. this the best way of adding caps to motor or is there a better way ?.

    1 Cap from Motor + to Motor -

    1 Cap from Motor + to Motor Can

    1 Cap from Motor - to Motor Can

    got this example from a Ansmanns Motor

  25. Posted

    found little info regarding power caps.

    i've come to the conclusion that people who use them, tend to use 4700uf 10v Electrolyic Capacitors, thou i find its easier to get a hold of the 4700uf 16v i doubt there is much difference between the 2 but would like to know if there is if anyone could.

    The other thing is i've read a thread somewhere that you should only use them on forward only ESC or a ESC programmed for forward and brake. is this true or can i use them on forward/reverse prgramed ESc too ?

    Finally on Power Caps do you attach power caps to Cap + to Batt + Cap - to Batt - at ESC ? or is it Cap + to Motor + and Cap - to Batt -

    Motor Caps

    i got couple motors that arc and have no caps fitted. when trianglating Caps on motors are the caps used 0.1uf Ceramic Disc , i think they BX03D or BXO3D or maybe 104J Caps not sure about this but could someone clear this up for me

    Thanks

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