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About andi4x4

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  • Birthday 11/30/1970

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    Isle of Man

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  1. My 'Rule of Thumb' with FB Marketplace is only deal locally and pay cash on collection/delivery. I live on the Isle of Man, so local for me is within 15 miles (anywhere on the island basically), but, I realise that some of you folks 'Stateside' may consider 150 miles local. So, I guess it boils down to how much time and fuel are you prepared to commit to chasing a potential Wild Goose.
  2. It has a Hunter Systems motor fitted so my guess is it will be one of their kits. Possibly a MiniStox type, as it does not look sophisticated enough to be a Formula or GT style chassis. They used to do a racing sidecar outfit kit - three wheels, one driven, one for steering and the third 'Chair' wheel offset forward of the rear wheel and non driven. I had two of them, nightmare to drive , but great fun ! Link below to the sidecar, not mine but a snippet from the album of TC member Supergripper - hope you don't mind me sharing, dude ! https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=82302&id=16126 You'll se a few more other cars there too ! Wish I'd kept mine now as the maker does not seem to exist any more, sadly.
  3. Urine ! I have a bald patch on my lawn where my dog keeps cocking his leg - nothing has grown there for months !
  4. HPI tyres are superb for the money - far superior to the Tamiya ones, but, the Tamiya one will last longer The tyres I use are high end competition ones, very, very grippy, but, also very short lived ! I can get through a set of tyres in four hours I have used the soft compound HPI ones, and still do at the height of the summer, when the track temperatures ( not air temp ! ) 50 deg C or more, but, we generally have track temps of 25 deg C or less here, so sticky rubber is almost essential ! In the winter, track temps of less than 5 deg C are common, and at those temps, you might as well be trying to drive on ice if you are using Tamiya tyres !
  5. Hi Jacque, Its not the hubs I want to extend - its the "C" shaped part that they sit in - the bit that connects the hubs to the upper and lower links. Your method is great on the back of the car, but, it upsets the steering geometry a little, so, I was going to try to extend the upper and lower links. Got them as long as I can with the bits I have available, so, now I need to add a bit in !
  6. Thanks for the info Jacque ! I need to make some mods to the front end as I still need to add some more to the front to make it a little wider. I am considering making a couple of small spacer plates to bolt to the "C" hub, drilled to bolt on by the wishbone pivot holes, with another set of wishbone pivot holes drilled in them to enable me to mount the "C" hubs further out - Unless I can find some "C" hubs that stick out futher ! Will let you know how it all turns out !
  7. Right, Some of you may have read my post regarding making the width of a TL01B a little narrower to suit the Frewer Metro 6R4 shell I have , so , what I have come up with is this:- front lower TL01B arms on the back and rear lowers from a TL01 touring/rally chassis on the front, with custom, adjustable top links. Now, this makes it about the right size, and, I can play with wheel offsets and axle/hex combinations to fine tune it, but, what I need now are some dogbones to fit - So, does anyone know the lengths of any of the Tamiya dogbones used in certain kits ? I need a dogbone that is 12mm longer than the standard TL01 touring size, but, the TL01B buggy ones are too long. The standard TL01 touring dogbones are 39mm long, so a dogbone of 51mm ( give or take a mm ) should do the job. Anyone got any ideas ?
  8. 20usd a pair with inserts isnt too bad - I pay closer to 50usd a pair with inserts of the brands I mentioned ! - I gotta start buying my tyres from the 'States !
  9. Hi Derick, Very true, the Tundra IS and IFS truck, but, this is a very plausible model, as, there is a conversion that can be done to almost any IFS truck which involves fiting a solid axle to the front end. Very common conversion done by rock crawlers and offroaders in the USA, to Toyota trucks that involves just that - swapping the IFS for a solid axle set-up. In the UK, all Hiluxes had solid axles upto, and including, the mk3, then IFS from then on, but, in the USA they went IFS on the mk2 onwards, and all of the stationwagon types (Surf, etc) were IFS from the word go. ( I think ! ) Why swap the suspension set-up ? Well, one reason really - Articulation. The IFS is very limited in the amount of travel that can be obtained. Whilst you can "lift" the IFS trucks, you can only lift them a few inches - usually about 3" at most, but, any extra height gained is offset by an equal loss in droop, so you still only have the same amount of travel that you started with - it is just in a different portion of the arc of the swingarms/wishbones. They are usually done with a leafspring conversion and a "spring over axle" set-up, and as such give 9" to a foot of natural lift, and massively increase the available travel and articulation And of course allow more room for much bigger tyres ! Not just Hiluxes that people do this to, mind, it can be done to almost any IFS 4x4 - I have done it to my Vauxhall Frontera ( or Isuzu Rodeo to our friends across the pond ! ) - Pics below of my truck, which,afaik, was the first successful conversion of its kind in the UK. My truck uses Hilux mk3 axles front and rear, along with Hilux Leafsprings, custom prop shafts and the original Vauxhall/Isuzu transfer case, gearbox and engine. There is a prototype for everything ! If you want to learn more about it, do a google search for " Hilux Hi-steer kits" - you will find a few sites selling the kits with links to converted trucks - much more common than you might think !
  10. First off - I don't run any nitro cars - all mine are electric ! Most of the tyres I use are competition grade such as Take Off, Sorex, Pit Shumizu, etc, and I find that generally, the insert supplied with whichever grade of tyres I have bought is the right one, or, I will go a little softer. As has already been mentioned, unless you are running on an almost glass like surface, you will find the car becomes "skittish" if your tyres are too hard. Another thing I sometimes do is to put two different compounds on the car - often a slightly softer one on the back than I have on the front - this can help to reduce spinout and oversteer, and also improves traction when accelerating out of corners. Another thing I do is to have the rear shocks slightly softer than the front - I normally run medium springs up front and med/soft or soft out back with a medium shock oil all round. These are rough settings that work for my driving style - I change them to suit the venue, surface quality and weather conditions - I run much softer tyres in cold, damp weather than I would run in bright sunlight on a dry summers day, and all the venues I run at are asphalt which is reasonably smooth and clean, most being recently resurfaced. We also tend to sweep the track before we start to get rid of any loose debris.
  11. I think you may just have to try it and see. I tend to stick to manufacturers inserts supplied with tyres. I also tend to run soft inserts in most my tyres as I feel they offer better performance than firmer ones.
  12. Hi Terry, Yes, I have considered that - also gave thought to bonding a strip of plastic to the middle of the assembled rim to help locate the tyre correctly. I have noticed the plastic ring is a bit feeble - one of mine broke as I was cutting it off the moulding fret !
  13. One thing you may have a problem with - Paints designed for lexan/polycarbonate bodies are designed to "etch" into the lexan and bond themselves to it. If your windows have been done with a proper lexan body paint, then you will never get the windows clear without a lot of very careful and gentle polishing. On the other hand - paints not designed for lexan should come off very easily as they dont bond to lexan properly. Hope it comes off easy for you !
  14. Right, Got my TGX wheels ( part #50864 ) and tyres ( Part # 50563 Treaded Radial Racing ) here - the wheels are the same diameter ( 2" ), but, the way they fit to the Kyosho Porsche wheels is a little different. The porsche wheels, as you know, are a three piece rim, which pinches the tyre between the outer ring ( which sits inside the tyre ) and the two pieces which form the front and back of the rim. They TGX tyres will fit, but, you will need to trim the inner bead down quite thin as the rim will not go together due to the thickness of the tyre bead on the Tamiya tyre. I have got the three peices together with the tyre on, but, the last little bit is just too tight to get the front and back of the rim together close enough together to get the screws in. I have an order for Kyosho tyres pending - my man is just waiting for me to send him the front rims back. the order will be placed in about three weeks, he says, as he needs to build up a minimum value order.
  15. Hi Jacque, I think you will find that the Kyosho porsche wheels are 2" diameter ( I have a set here ) and the HPI Super Touring tyres are a 2.2" - so they will be too big. I have to return a set of front rims I have to the guy I bought them from as mine are going onto a 4wd chassis ( I didnt realize the porsche was 2wd when I bought them ! ) so he is going to compare the Kyosho tyres he has in stock against the wheels I send back ( he has none left ) and he will let me know which of the Kyosho tyres best fit. He has one pair each of the slick, treaeded and rally tyres, but, says he can easily get more. I have just oredered a set of TGX wheels and Tyres from Tony's Tamiya Parts on ebay - will let you know the sizes when they arrive ! As a side note - the Tamyia Fighter buggy has 2" rear wheels, but, I have only found pin spike offroad tyres in that size so far - however - we could cut the spikes off maybe ?!
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