wolfdogstinkus

Many people recommend a wearing/running in procedure before usage to shape the brushes on the com.

Subliminal message incoming "buy it" sublimation message end.

I'm glad you said that, to start with, I thought 16.5mm was the tyre contact patch, but I didn't want to display my stupidity, now that's cleared up. (Measurements corrected, stupidity displayed) What's the contact patch size?, just curious like. With greater wheelbase, comes greater stability. I think Spiderman says something similar so it must be true.

53 is Herbie's number, I can't look at it without seeing Herbie, it's twisting my melon, man.

Great looking project, this chassis is massively under-rated. I made rails for a 6x6, if I told you I cut them with my teeth, you might believe me, it was rough but it worked. I achieved the kick up angle by letting my boy jump it at the skatepark, but I think your way is much better. I'm surprised somebody more clever than me (everybody, lol) hasn't uploaded to fibrelyte, an adjustable set of plates for this chassis with middle spacers to change the wheelbase. Hint. Hint. They are certainly better value than shapeways and stronger too with a choice of thickness and materials. I even thought about joining 3 gearboxes together in a triangle fashion to build a go anywhere robot, but never got round to it.

I had the mini 4WD fire dragon clear special and I really liked the look of it. Unfortunately I believe the 1/10 version is pre-painted now?

I've been saying since the Sw-01 first appeared, they should do all the classic shells to fit especially the Clodbuster but your Pumpkin looks great, good job.

Must resist buying fire dragon. Is there a way to ignore threads of a particular chassis type?. No?, I'm going to have to buy a fire dragon, aren't I? Easily persuaded I guess.

Nice job, needs some LED's in there somewhere?. Sorry, couldn't remove unwanted pics in the quote.

I like the thunder dragon, also like the fire dragon after building the mini 4WD clear fire dragon, I am tempted to get the big fire dragon. Wasn't it cool to get smaller versions of popular cars? Bout time they released the Clod on a SW-01 chassis.

I'd imagine with the badge on the front, it may turn to rust before you roll it again!!. We used to call it the ferrous oxide performance pack, or the rust lightening theory. You should definitely do a weathered/rusty shell, and swap it half way through a race. Lol M chassis's are great though, will it get to M10?, or is the MB01? the successor?

Added a lid and a handle on the starting gate, tied on with string so the gate won't get lost. Feed the cars in the back, lift the gate and the race is started. Was thinking this might work in reverse as well as a less guided jump, but not tested it yet. I always drill a hole through the body clip and tie it on so it doesn't get lost.

Added a bit more to the new mini 4wd track.

Sorry, no. I had 2 trucks years ago but all long gone now.. just go lipo.

The stock motor will wake up a bit on 3s, I'm sure. You don't need to mess about with pinion mesh either then. I don't remember exactly how the motor mounts in these but if it has the plastic locating pins, leave them in place and drill one more hole to line up with the motor and that should be enough to keep it in place and again without disturbing pinion alignment. Make a cardboard template with all the motor holes, place it over the locating pins and drill a hole to mount the motor.

I think I may remember that now, I'll have a hunt around to see what information is out there. I thought this would have been better if it was 4wd, it looks a lot like a toy TXT 1. But I didn't see an easy way to make it 4WD back then. I don't have any of these trucks anymore, just didn't enjoy it as much as the monster range.

Made another mini 4wd track. https://youtube.com/shorts/QeRhM-nVf7Q?si=c4z-ztcM7Alxdo2o

I did have a couple of these years ago but don't remember the thing you speak of? I ripped all the original stuff out and made it brushless. Not as much fun as the "monster" range but a tough little truck.

I would have thought any of the aftermarket covers would work?, I often see them for the lunchbox, can't remember for sure but worth looking into.

In real cars of this type, there's no weight on the front?, and all the engine weight over the wheel. Certainly, in a Volkswagen beach buggy/ frame/sandrail , I could see the benefits of longer rears.

I'm with you on this, I thought I upgraded my brushless QD with a 8200kv motor 2435 size can instead of the 2030 size 7800kv hobbywing ezrun. The EZRUN won hands down. Bigger motor was topping out at 30mph whereas the EZRUN pushed it past 40 easily and had loads left... hobbywing for the win.

I had an engine all detailed for it as well with LEDs in the exhaust stacks but never fitted it, I'll have to try and find a picture.

Mine did have a body for a while. It jumped well. I think I was running silver cans here, but I might be wrong. @stamatis sorry didn't mean to hijack your thread but this chassis is underrated and needs more exposure.

Depends how much you want to turn I suppose?. This would destroy small shrubs at 30mph so you don't really need to turn. Lol. You could have 6ws as well if needed, but I found a bit more power to the back end would help it lose traction at the rear. Who needs turning anyway?? 😂 You can do interesting donuts on loose gravel but it'll flip over when it finds some grip unless you have the reaction time of a 6 year old boy!!!

I ran 3 brushless motors and 3 batteries just to complicate things and then a spaghetti mess of various "Y" leads joining it all up to one receiver. So I could be using 9s lipo but still only running at 11.1volts. or 6s but only 7.4 volts. I used to run 2x2s on the front and a 3s on the back just to make the handling a bit more interesting. Lol