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About pearce_jj

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  • Birthday 08/23/1976

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    Kent, UK
  1. I can also testify to the need for glueing. Personally I use the Tamiya tyre cement (available on ebay for a few quid). I've seen a lunchbox that can't even get up banks because the wheels are slipping so much, then again that one did have twenty-two year old tyres (and amazingly it's original shell too)
  2. Yeah there's not much to it..., run flat-out, turn in and a dash of brake, then hard on the power and be ready to use opposite lock if it's damp!! Batteries are supposed to make a difference. That said I'm running a cheapy from ebay (3,800mAh) and it seems to pick up nicely although I did choose one with the highest peak current rating (at my budget of about a fiver...) I don't think the Sport Tune is massively faster but does have a fair bit more torque IIRC.
  3. Get the sport tuned mate, it's all you need. The 'box is pretty uncontrollable anyway but that will give you very very long wheelies and sorted power slides
  4. I don't understand the repositioning of the rear shocks. Surely moving them outwards decreases the effective stroke length, since when rotating about the centre they are now further outwards? I'm not criticising btw - just keen to understand what's going on!
  5. Rear tyres need to be glued, the wheels skid on the rims otherwise after a bit of use and this obviously takes the kick out the motor, stopping it from wheelying.
  6. Morning all There's been a few threads on here recently about "can XYZ body fit on ABC chasis", which I've been reading with interest. Since I used to own a Monster Beetle, I suddenly wondered..., how about a MB Body on the Lunchbox chasis? iirc the Brat was a lot longer than the LB, so I'm presuming the chasis would need extending in the middle somehow. And then presumably some serious power to overcome the increased length? Cheers!
  7. BTW the beeps are produced via the motor's windings, so it won't beep if the motor isn't connected. (Plugging a motor into a hifi and sticking the shaft on the back of an upturned ice cream pot will make an awful (but functional) speaker).
  8. LED shouldn't flash. I had this, ESC was dead. It beeped once sometime twice then just flashed. I returned it and the good folk at ModelSport sent out a replacement :-)
  9. Just search on ebay for these: Tamiya RS-540 Sport Tuned Motor #53068 Tamiya 50320 RC Light Bulb Set Lunchbox bearings There is a seller "charming cross stitch" who is often breaking kits for parts, and selling spares very cheaply. The sport-tuned is around 20% faster and more powerful than the standard motor, but without any significant increase in current draw as it is more efficient. I find this give better wheelies basically although as said above the shipped 540J isn't at all bad anyway. The 3rd shock mod really is easy. All you need is a shock, almost any old one really! But fitting it will use one of the oil shock mounts from the kit, so if you want oil shocks at all corners you'll need to look out for shock mounts seperately on ebay (maybe someone on here might help you out!). Cheers
  10. I once did exactly as you suggest with a new body, was a mud bluster body actually, proudly took it out for it's first drive, dodgy old ACOMS receiver died, 23T 540 on full pelt, straight under a wooden gate, and that was the end of that body. Was gutted, aged about 11!
  11. if the plastic tubing is cut the correct length the wheels can't rub, but the travel it pretty short. But much of the suspension is in the tyres anyway. Glueing the tires seems to make them a little stiffer? Also - the chrome shock bodies are different front and back. Might be worth checking.
  12. The gold edition is well worth considering, 69 delivered from model sport at the mo. Saves a lot of pratting about painting! For what it's worth, I have a sport tuned motor (10 delivered off ebay :-)), 3rd shock, bearings and a 3800mah battery, and really love it, much to SWMBOs annoyance. I do get through a steady supply of spairs though - aerial straws (one per run), servo savers (every other run), front suspension... Personally I don't think oil shocks are particularly important, since part of the charm is it's random bouncing and general uncontrolability :-) That said the front spring cups break easily so aluminium shocks would be an improvement. Well worth getting the front lights, official sets on ebay about 4. Tried mine on a track at the weekend - mix of skidding all over the place (after the 'occasional' venturing onto wet grass) and two-wheels on the corners, quite pleasing to have it on the two side wheels without wiping out. Obviously it's much more at home ripping up the grass and splashing through marsh land. With the ESC it can wheely much, much further than with the original MSC. If you do keep the standard shocks, cut a 3mm length of rubber tube for the top of the shaft, to stop the awful knocking on the chasis and lower the ride height a dash (you'll see what I mean when you get it). Also mounting the servo saver off-center (away from the shorter length) makes the steering more even. Do put the third-shock in straight away, as the axle springs will break after the first use! Cheers!
  13. What about the spacer from the lunchbox, would that work?
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